The Central Scrutinizer Mostly sport climbing

21 routes in cliff

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Description

This is the large clean buttress on your right after you pass the Pool Area and fenced off base of "The Virgin Canyon". It runs until the big tree against the wall on the aqueduct.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.

Approach

Step off the road, over the aqueduct. You could, if you had actually driven to EPC (or up to the Potrero from camp) actually belay most of these routes from your car.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 * Slip of the Tongue Sport 26m, 6

Climb up narrow slab section to high first bolt (shared with "Upside Down Cracker", then follow bolts leftward.

Shares anchor with "Blood Meridian".

FA: Dane Bass, Ralph Vega

2
5.8 Upside Down Cracker Sport 35m, 9

Shares start and first bolt with "Slip of the Tongue", then goes right to the small bulge, over it, and then follows the obvious corner up and to the left. Anchor is on top of the big boulder/roof at the top of the corner.

3
5.11a Full Throttle Sport 29m, 9

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This is the left-most (highest) route on the ramp.

4
5.9 * Blood Meridian Sport 26m, 6

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct.

Starts same as "Golden Puff" (shares first 2 bolts), then follows bolts across the middle of the wall to the anchors for "Slip of the Tongue". Traverse is difficult to clean on lower/rappel.

5
5.10d Golden Puff Sport 30m, 7

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct.

Shares first 2 bolts with "Blood Meridian", but then continues up.

6
5.9 Sabrosa Sport 21m, 7

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This route is the first set of bolts up the ramp.

FA: Mario Cantu

7

Old Bolts recently (between 2004 and 2012) replaced.

8
5.8 * Fupa / Foopa Sport 26m, 6

Up then curves left towards bulge and more up-left to share anchors with "Something Old, Something New".

FA: Dane Bass, Rick Ross

9
5.11a Canadian Route Sport 55m
10
5.9 Joe's Garage Unknown 50m, 11

Sometimes done as a single pitch.

11
5.10b Mr P. Mosh Sport 26m, 8
12
5.11b ** Gringo Disco Sport 50m, 14

Long and sustained. Don't confuse the anchors for "Mr. P. Mosh" as part of the climb -- though they can be very useful for rappel to get down with a single rope.

13
5.11a R Central Scrutinizer Sport 50m

Follows old rusty bolts, with exciting runouts. (Rap anchors 1/2 way -- or treat as 2 pitches.)

14
5.11a Mecasuit Sport 52m, 13
15
5.10c Bubba Loui Sport 49m, 8
16
5.10d ** Quick Draw McGraw Sport 61m, 10

First pitch if 5.10 if you stay out of the corner and on the face to the right.

Can be combined in one pitch with 18 draws.

17
5.9 X Monster Truck Trad 1800m

Looking up into the Potrero from the camping area, there is an obvious steep ridge line up the right side of the Potrero -- that's Monster Truck, the whole ride line.

Do the first two pitches of "Quick Draw McGraw", then continue up the ridge following the path of least resistance when the ridge looks harder than 5.9.

Lots and lots and lots of pitches, with generous chunks of 3rd class, too.

18

Climb the large corner right of "Quick Draw McGraw".

19

This route has been eliminated due to a dangerous loose block.

20
5.11a Bury Me Standing Sport 55m, 8
21
5.9 Bling Bling Sport 37m, 8