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Table of contents

1. The Central Scrutinizer 21 routes in Sector

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.476534, 25.949287

Description:

This is the large clean buttress on your right after you pass the Pool Area and fenced off base of "The Virgin Canyon". It runs until the big tree against the wall on the aqueduct.

Access Issues: inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach:

Step off the road, over the aqueduct. You could, if you had actually driven to EPC (or up to the Potrero from camp) actually belay most of these routes from your car.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slip of the Tongue

Climb up narrow slab section to high first bolt (shared with "Upside Down Cracker", then follow bolts leftward.

Shares anchor with "Blood Meridian".

FA: Dane Bass, Ralph Vega

5.7 Sport 26m, 6
2 Upside Down Cracker

Shares start and first bolt with "Slip of the Tongue", then goes right to the small bulge, over it, and then follows the obvious corner up and to the left. Anchor is on top of the big boulder/roof at the top of the corner.

5.8 Sport 35m, 9
3 Full Throttle

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This is the left-most (highest) route on the ramp.

5.11a Sport 29m, 9
4 * Blood Meridian

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct.

Starts same as "Golden Puff" (shares first 2 bolts), then follows bolts across the middle of the wall to the anchors for "Slip of the Tongue". Traverse is difficult to clean on lower/rappel.

5.9 Sport 26m, 6
5 Golden Puff

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct.

Shares first 2 bolts with "Blood Meridian", but then continues up.

5.10d Sport 30m, 7
6 Sabrosa

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This route is the first set of bolts up the ramp.

FA: Mario Cantu

5.9 Sport 21m, 7
7 Something Old, Something New / Old Bolts

Old Bolts recently (between 2004 and 2012) replaced.

5.8 Sport 24m
8 Fupa / Foopa

Up then curves left towards bulge and more up-left to share anchors with "Something Old, Something New".

FA: Dane Bass, Rick Ross

5.8 Sport 26m, 6
9 Canadian Route 5.10c Sport 55m 2
10 Joe's Garage

Sometimes done as a single pitch.

5.9 Unknown 50m 2, 11
11 Mr P. Mosh 5.10b Sport 26m, 8
12 *** Gringo Disco

Long and sustained. Don't confuse the anchors for "Mr. P. Mosh" as part of the climb -- though they can be very useful for rappel to get down with a single rope.

5.11b Sport 50m, 14
13 Central Scrutinizer

Follows old rusty bolts, with exciting runouts. (Rap anchors 1/2 way -- or treat as 2 pitches.)

5.11a R Sport 50m
14 Mecasuit 5.11a Sport 52m 2, 13
15 Bubba Loui 5.10c Sport 49m 2, 8
16 ** Quick Draw McGraw

First pitch is 5.10 if you stay out of the corner and on the face to the right.

Can be combined in one pitch with 18 draws.

5.10c Sport 61m 2, 10
17 Monster Truck

Looking up into the Potrero from the camping area, there is an obvious steep ridge line up the right side of the Potrero -- that's Monster Truck, the whole ride line.

Do the first two pitches of "Quick Draw McGraw", then continue up the ridge following the path of least resistance when the ridge looks harder than 5.9.

Lots and lots and lots of pitches, with generous chunks of 3rd class, too.

5.9 X Trad 1800m
18 Bazookaed in Monterrey

Climb the large corner right of "Quick Draw McGraw".

5.10c Sport 3
19 * Shake Hands with Shorty

This route has been eliminated due to a dangerous loose block.

5.10a Sport
20 Bury Me Standing 5.11a Sport 55m, 8
21 Bling Bling 5.9 Sport 37m, 8

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.7 Slip of the Tongue Sport 26m, 6
5.8 Fupa Sport 26m, 6
Something Old, Something New Sport 24m
Upside Down Cracker Sport 35m, 9
5.9 Bling Bling Sport 37m, 8
* Blood Meridian Sport 26m, 6
Joe's Garage Unknown 50m 2, 11
Sabrosa Sport 21m, 7
5.9 X Monster Truck Trad 1800m
5.10a * Shake Hands with Shorty Sport
5.10b Mr P. Mosh Sport 26m, 8
5.10c Bazookaed in Monterrey Sport 3
Bubba Loui Sport 49m 2, 8
Canadian Route Sport 55m 2
** Quick Draw McGraw Sport 61m 2, 10
5.10d Golden Puff Sport 30m, 7
5.11a Bury Me Standing Sport 55m, 8
Full Throttle Sport 29m, 9
Mecasuit Sport 52m 2, 13
5.11a R Central Scrutinizer Sport 50m
5.11b *** Gringo Disco Sport 50m, 14