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Table of contents

1. The Central Scrutinizer 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.476534, 25.949287

Description:

This is the large clean buttress on your right after you pass the Pool Area and fenced off base of "The Virgin Canyon". It runs until the big tree against the wall on the aqueduct.

Access Issues: inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.

Approach:

Step off the road, over the aqueduct. You could, if you had actually driven to EPC (or up to the Potrero from camp) actually belay most of these routes from your car.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Slip of the Tongue

Climb up narrow slab section to high first bolt (shared with "Upside Down Cracker", then follow bolts leftward.

Shares anchor with "Blood Meridian".

FA: Dane Bass, Ralph Vega

5.7Sport 26m, 6 David Gibbs 2 years ago

The first bolt is a long way up, even if on fairly easy terrain. And it seemed quite stiff for a...

2 Upside Down Cracker

Shares start and first bolt with "Slip of the Tongue", then goes right to the small bulge, over it, and then follows the obvious corner up and to the left. Anchor is on top of the big boulder/roof at the top of the corner.

5.8Sport 35m, 9 David Gibbs 2 years ago

Seemed stiff in places for a EPC 5.8.

3 Full Throttle

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This is the left-most (highest) route on the ramp.

5.11aSport 29m, 9
4 * Blood Meridian

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct.

Starts same as "Golden Puff" (shares first 2 bolts), then follows bolts across the middle of the wall to the anchors for "Slip of the Tongue". Traverse is difficult to clean on lower/rappel.

5.9Sport 26m, 6 Zorba Parer 11 years ago

Nice little roof section. Would make an excellent warm up route. Will be getting a second pitch s...

5 Golden Puff

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct.

Shares first 2 bolts with "Blood Meridian", but then continues up.

5.10dSport 30m, 7 claire grubb 7 years ago

was confused when it got steep.....I´ve climbed too much slab/verticalness!!

6 Sabrosa

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This route is the first set of bolts up the ramp.

FA: Mario Cantu

5.9Sport 21m, 7
7 Something Old, Something New / Old Bolts

Old Bolts recently (between 2004 and 2012) replaced.

5.8Sport 24m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Fupa / Foopa

Up then curves left towards bulge and more up-left to share anchors with "Something Old, Something New".

FA: Dane Bass, Rick Ross

5.8Sport 26m, 6 David Gibbs 2 years ago

Dane lists this as a 5.9 -- but if so, it is a really soft 5.9. Seems reasonable at 5.8 to 5.8+.

9 Canadian Route 5.11aSport 55m
10 Joe's Garage

Sometimes done as a single pitch.

5.9Unknown 50m, 11
11 Mr P. Mosh 5.10bSport 26m, 8
12 ** Gringo Disco

Long and sustained. Don't confuse the anchors for "Mr. P. Mosh" as part of the climb -- though they can be very useful for rappel to get down with a single rope.

5.11bSport 50m, 14 claire grubb 7 years ago

60m of classy pockets!!!

13 Central Scrutinizer

Follows old rusty bolts, with exciting runouts. (Rap anchors 1/2 way -- or treat as 2 pitches.)

5.11a RSport 50m
14 Mecasuit 5.11aSport 52m, 13
15 Bubba Loui 5.10cSport 49m, 8
16 ** Quick Draw McGraw

First pitch if 5.10 if you stay out of the corner and on the face to the right.

Can be combined in one pitch with 18 draws.

5.10dSport 61m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Monster Truck

Looking up into the Potrero from the camping area, there is an obvious steep ridge line up the right side of the Potrero -- that's Monster Truck, the whole ride line.

Do the first two pitches of "Quick Draw McGraw", then continue up the ridge following the path of least resistance when the ridge looks harder than 5.9.

Lots and lots and lots of pitches, with generous chunks of 3rd class, too.

5.9 XTrad 1800m
18 Bazookaed in Monterrey

Climb the large corner right of "Quick Draw McGraw".

5.10cSport
19 * Shake Hands with Shorty

This route has been eliminated due to a dangerous loose block.

5.10aSport
20 Bury Me Standing 5.11aSport 55m, 8
21 Bling Bling 5.9Sport 37m, 8

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.7 * Slip of the Tongue Sport 26m, 6
5.8 * Fupa Sport 26m, 6
Something Old, Something New Sport 24m
Upside Down Cracker Sport 35m, 9
5.9 Bling Bling Sport 37m, 8
* Blood Meridian Sport 26m, 6
Joe's Garage Unknown 50m, 11
Monster Truck Trad 1800m
Sabrosa Sport 21m, 7
5.10a * Shake Hands with Shorty Sport
5.10b Mr P. Mosh Sport 26m, 8
5.10c Bazookaed in Monterrey Sport
Bubba Loui Sport 49m, 8
5.10d Golden Puff Sport 30m, 7
** Quick Draw McGraw Sport 61m, 10
5.11a Bury Me Standing Sport 55m, 8
Canadian Route Sport 55m
Central Scrutinizer Sport 50m
Full Throttle Sport 29m, 9
Mecasuit Sport 52m, 13
5.11b ** Gringo Disco Sport 50m, 14