The Spires Cliff guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

David Gibbs Kinsey Davis Chayil Timmerman jeremy Stephan Lorenz Brendan Butterworth Humberto Zavala Slehiman mark.lutterman duanne white Steve Booker

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. The Spires 21 in Cliff
- 1.1. North Side 10 in Sector
- 1.2. South Side 11 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. The Spires 21 routes in Cliff

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The obvious pair of spires on the right side, past the cattle gate.
Access Issues: inherited from El Potrero Chico: Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.
Approach:: Walk past the cattle gate to hobo camp, then follow the blue trail up to the right towards the Outrage wall, and turn left at the red trail.

1.1. North Side 10 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: This is the side that you first see as you walk in to the Potrero.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Crack Test Dummies Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney. There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on old iron rings. It is short and easy -- and the old iron is still solid (as of 2012). Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood".	5.9	Sport 75m	David Gibbs 1 years ago Followed first (5.7) pitch, lead 2nd (5.9) pitch. (Well, Dane says 5.8 for 2nd pitch, Ed 5.9. I... Brendan Butterworth 12 years ago Got lost on this sucker.
2	Achtung Rheinstein Arete Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".	5.11a	Sport 29m , 9
3	Getting Wood FA: Dane Bass, Curtis Mai,	5.10d	Sport 70m	Chayil Timmerman 8 years ago Nice alpine feel to this line.
4	Handsome Mike's Modeling School	5.12a	Sport
5	Aguja Celo Rey	5.10a	Sport 67m
6	Off the Notch Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.	5.10b	Sport 24m , 6
7	UberMachismo	5.11a	Sport 67m , 10
8	Jungle Honey	5.10d	Sport 26m , 11
9	The Fall of Eve	5.12d	Sport
10	Dirty Dreams	5.11b	Sport 24m

1.2. South Side 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The side facing farther into the Potrero.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Uphill Route Climb the western ridge of the uphill spire.	5.7	Trad 61m
2	Tool	5.12d	Sport 55m
3	Pangea	5.11d	Sport 24m , 6	mark.lutterman 13 years ago Two 50m ropes tied together hung with slings from anchors.
4	Gondwanaland	5.12d	Sport 50m , 14
5	Through the Looking Glass Starts on the south face of the uphill spire, then through the "looking glass" (tunnel between the spires), and up the north face of the downhill spire.	5.10d	Sport 56m
6	Peek-a-Boo Jesus	5.12a	Sport 26m , 11
7	Aspire Bolt line up the face of the down-hill spire.	5.11c	Sport 46m , 17
8	Young Crankenstein	5.11d	Sport 34m , 16
9	Easy Over Shares anchor with first pitch of "Sunnyside Up"	5.10d	Sport 12
10	Sunnyside Up Sub-anchor for rappel on (long) 2nd pitch.	5.10c	Sport 69m , 15
11	Downhill Route Climb the downhill ridge (the ridge facing the road) of the downhill (eastern) spire.	5.9	Trad 75m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
5.7	Uphill Route	Trad 61m	1.2. South Side
5.9	Crack Test Dummies	Sport 75m	1.1. North Side
	Downhill Route	Trad 75m	1.2. South Side
5.10a	Aguja Celo Rey	Sport 67m	1.1. North Side
5.10b	Off the Notch	Sport 24m , 6	1.1. North Side
5.10c	Sunnyside Up	Sport 69m , 15	1.2. South Side
5.10d	Getting Wood	Sport 70m	1.1. North Side
	Jungle Honey	Sport 26m , 11	1.1. North Side
	Easy Over	Sport 12	1.2. South Side
	Through the Looking Glass	Sport 56m	1.2. South Side
5.11a	Achtung Rheinstein Arete	Sport 29m , 9	1.1. North Side
	UberMachismo	Sport 67m , 10	1.1. North Side
5.11b	Dirty Dreams	Sport 24m	1.1. North Side
5.11c	Aspire	Sport 46m , 17	1.2. South Side
5.11d	Pangea	Sport 24m , 6	1.2. South Side
	Young Crankenstein	Sport 34m , 16	1.2. South Side
5.12a	Handsome Mike's Modeling School	Sport	1.1. North Side
	Peek-a-Boo Jesus	Sport 26m , 11	1.2. South Side
5.12d	The Fall of Eve	Sport	1.1. North Side
	Gondwanaland	Sport 50m , 14	1.2. South Side
	Tool	Sport 55m	1.2. South Side

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Cliff Guide for The Spires