Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

This is the wall across the back of the picnic area above the pools, with BBQs along its base. It is the first wall along to the right along the front-side of the Potrero.

Be very careful on this wall, especially on the upper pitches of any mulit-pitch routes, when the pools and picnic/BBQ area is busy. Any rock fall could hurt locals, including children, who will not be looking for or expecting rock fall. (In fact, it is probably best to not climb anything multi-pitch on this wall if the pools and picnicing is at all busy.)

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.

Approach

Walk up past the pools and BBQs to the obvious wall.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
Kiddie Korner Top rope 9m

Two top-rope anchors used for introducing local kids to climbing.

2
5.8 Mr. Hanky Sport 27m, 8

Best 5.8 in Potrero.

(Don't mistake the "Kiddie Korner" anchor just to the left as you climb for anything that is yours.)

FA: Dane Bass

3
5.10a * Asombrame Sport 27m

Climb the thin crack just right of "Mr. Hanky", and shares anchor with it.

4
5.10a Monkey Bizness Sport 29m, 9

Super Sweet 5.10a

Climb the obvious crack and then over the bulge at the top.

FA: Dane Bass

5
5.9 Monkey Booty Sport 27m

Climb the crack on "Monkey Bizness", but angle rightwards to finish on "Halfway to Booty" rather than finishing up over the bulge.

6
5.10c *** Half Way to Booty Sport 26m, 12

FA: Dane Bass and Ralph Vega

7
5.10b ** The Great Baldini Sport 27m

FA: Dane Bass and Rick Ross

8
5.10 * Red Headed Step Child Sport 26m

FA: Ralph Vega and Prentess Berry

9
5.10a Mexican Squeeze Job Sport 27m, 12
10
5.10d *** Kooter on Skooters Sport 27m, 13

Stay out of black streak for 10d grade.

FA: Dane Bass and Rick Ross

11
5.9 One Dead Teardrop Sport 30m, 10

FA: Dane Bass and Rick Ross

12
5.9 Ramsey's Shenanigans Sport 73m

At 2nd belay (shared with "Evil Shenanigans"), move left a few feet for the 3rd pitch. (Straight up from the belay is the 3rd pitch of "Evil Shenanigans" -- which goes at a lot harder than 5.9.)

13
5.9 Ramsays pitch 1 Sport 25m
14
5.11b Evil Shenanigans Sport 73m, 11

Great 3 Pitch climb on far right of the wall.

This runs very close to "Ramsey's Shenanigans"; don't wander onto it, if you want full value for the 2nd (11b) and 3rd (10c) pitches.

FA: Dane Bass and Rick Ross