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Estrellas North Wall

  • Grades: US
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 177
  • Aka: Las Estrellas

Description

The lower part of the left (north) wall of the Estrellas canyon.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.11b
2 5.11a
3 5.10b

One pitch climb with three variations (left to right): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b).

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

Same anchor as Jesus Amarillo

Same anchor as La Pantera Rosa

Needs a 70m rope.

Needs a 70m rope.

FA: Cort McElroy & Mike Jones

1
2 5.9
3 5.9
4 5.8
5
6 5.7
7 5.8
8 5.10b
9 5.9
10 5.10b
11 5.10b
12 5.8

This is the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find.

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level.

Hard variations are: Pitch 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. Pitch 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.

  1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

  2. (5.9) More bolts.

  3. (5.9) Left from the anchor, then trend rightwards. (Straight up instead of rightwards is the 5.11b variation.)

  4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards, around the corner, then up and right again. (straight up is the 5.11a variation)

  5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

  6. (5.5) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

  7. (5.6) Keep going up the ramp.

  8. (5.10a) Bolts, watching for a turn left and up.

  9. (5.9) Bolts.

  10. (5.10b, 5.9+ if you skip the crux by using jugs to the right of the line) Bolts.

  11. (5.10a) Bolts.

  12. (5.7) Up the chimney.

Linking pitch 3 & 4 can cause awful rope drag. Linking 6 & 7 needs a 70m rope or simul-climbing by belayer on easy (5.0) terrain.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

FA: Ed Wright, Craig McCrudden & Ismael Garza - 2000

Starts right behind the small tree where the terrain becomes flatter. Finishes in the nice dihedral.

Anchor is just below the tree.

Starts left of the crack with the tree in it.

Runs through the brown patch 2 bolts before the anchor.

Starts behind the small tree, first bolt is right above the crack. Heads right after bolt 5 onto the yellowish / grey flake and back left after 2 more bolts.

Trends right passed the corner at about 2/3 of the height.

Starts just at the big block, finishes on yellow rock.

Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with "Landscaping"

1
2 5.7
3 5.10d
4 5.11d
5 5.10b
6 5.12a
7 5.11b
8 5.9
9 5.7

First pitch 11 bolts to rap anchor.

Shares anchor with "Kung Pao Pupert".

FA: Kevin Mahoney

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