Topo #1552

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Los Tres Chiflados

One pitch climb with three variations (right to left): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b).

5.11b Sport 27m, 7 Unlink route
2 La Pantera Rosa
5.10d Sport 30m, 7 Unlink route
4 23 Diablos

Needs a 70m rope.

5.12d Sport 43m, 19 Unlink route
5 2 Dead Chipmunks and 1 Dead Beaver

Needs a 70m rope.

5.11c Sport 40m, 15 Unlink route
7 Rat Bastard
5.11a Sport Unlink route
8 *** Estrellita (5.10b Variation)

This is, probably, the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree. There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. 1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards. 2. (5.9) More bolts. 3. (5.9) More bolts to follow. 4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards (up is 5.11), around the corner, then upwards again. 5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below. 6. (5.7) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt. 7. (5.7) Keep going up the ramp. 8. (5.10a) Bolts. 9. (5.9) Bolts. 10. (5.10a) Bolts. 11. (5.10b, 5.9+ variation) Bolts. 12. 5.8 Bolts. Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

5.10b Sport 340m Unlink route
12 Mr Fluffers wild ride
5.9 Sport 40m Unlink route
17 Take Me to Your Marklar
5.10c Sport Unlink route

Topo #1550

Please login or sign up to edit topo's
Route Grade Popularity Style
8 *** Estrellita (5.10b Variation)

This is, probably, the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree. There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. 1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards. 2. (5.9) More bolts. 3. (5.9) More bolts to follow. 4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards (up is 5.11), around the corner, then upwards again. 5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below. 6. (5.7) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt. 7. (5.7) Keep going up the ramp. 8. (5.10a) Bolts. 9. (5.9) Bolts. 10. (5.10a) Bolts. 11. (5.10b, 5.9+ variation) Bolts. 12. 5.8 Bolts. Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

5.10b Sport 340m Unlink route

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