Topo #1552

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Los Tres Chiflados

One pitch climb with three variations (left to right): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b).

5.11b Sport 27m, 7 Unlink route
2 La Pantera Rosa
5.10d Sport 30m, 7 Unlink route
4 23 Diablos

Needs a 70m rope.

5.12d Sport 43m, 19 Unlink route
5 2 Dead Chipmunks and 1 Dead Beaver

Needs a 70m rope.

5.11c Sport 40m, 15 Unlink route
7 Rat Bastard
5.11a Sport 26m, 7 Unlink route
8 *** Estrellita

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level. Hard variations are: 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse. See "Estrellita (5.10b variation)" for descent information. This is, probably, the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree. There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. 1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards. 2. (5.9) More bolts. 3. (5.9) More bolts to follow. (There is a straight up 5.11b variation.) 4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards, around the corner, then upwards again. (straight up is the 5.11a variation) 5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below. 6. (5.7) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt. 7. (5.7) Keep going up the ramp. 8. (5.10a) Bolts. 9. (5.9) Bolts. 10. (5.10a) Bolts. 11. (5.10b, 5.9+ variation) Bolts. 12. 5.8 Bolts. Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

5.9 to 5.11b Sport 370m 12, 12 Unlink route
10 * Mr Fluffers wild ride
5.9 Sport 40m Unlink route
14 Take Me to Your Marklar
5.10c Sport Unlink route

Topo #1550

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Route Grade Popularity Style
8 *** Estrellita

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level. Hard variations are: 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse. See "Estrellita (5.10b variation)" for descent information. This is, probably, the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree. There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. 1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards. 2. (5.9) More bolts. 3. (5.9) More bolts to follow. (There is a straight up 5.11b variation.) 4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards, around the corner, then upwards again. (straight up is the 5.11a variation) 5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below. 6. (5.7) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt. 7. (5.7) Keep going up the ramp. 8. (5.10a) Bolts. 9. (5.9) Bolts. 10. (5.10a) Bolts. 11. (5.10b, 5.9+ variation) Bolts. 12. 5.8 Bolts. Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

5.9 to 5.11b Sport 370m 12, 12 Unlink route

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