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North Side

Description

This is the side that you first see as you walk in to the Potrero.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.7
2 5.9

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

Currently (Jan 2017) missing a hangar on one bolt in pitch 2, and requires trusting two old pitons as "bolts".

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is no double-bolt rappel back to the north side from the top, but there is a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood".

Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".

1 5.10d
2 5.9

FA: Dane Bass & Curtis Mai

1 5.10 40m
2 5.10 20m

Starts on the slab right of the palm tree and goes up right to the first anchor. From there follow the airy arrete to the top. Each pitch 6 bolts.

Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.

1 5.11a
2 5.11a

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