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Description

This is the side that you first see as you walk in to the Potrero.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.9 * Crack Test Dummies Sport 75m, 2

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

Currently (Jan 2017) missing a hangar on one bolt in pitch 2, and requires trusting two old pitons as "bolts".

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is no double-bolt rappel back to the north side from the top, but there is a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood".

2
5.11a Achtung Rheinstein Arete Sport 29m, 9

Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".

3
5.10d ** Getting Wood Sport 70m, 2

FA: Dane Bass & Curtis Mai

5
5.10a ** Aguja Celo Rey Sport 61m, 2
6
5.10b ** Off the Notch Sport 24m, 6

Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.

7
5.11a * UberMachismo Sport 67m, 2, 10
8
5.10d * Jungle Honey Sport 26m, 11
9
5.12d The Fall of Eve Sport
10
5.11b ** Dirty Dreams Sport 24m

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