North Side Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

David Gibbs Alvaro Peiro Alberto Sanchez Noah Boudreau-Richard Ale De Luna Manolo Ruiz Kinsey Davis Frank Madden CACHORRO Eugenio Garza

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1. North Side / Shady side 11 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. North Side 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 25.947467, -100.477729

description

This is the side that you first see as you walk in to the Potrero.

access issues

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

inherited from El Potrero Chico

ethic

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

inherited from Nuevo León

	Route	Grade	Style
Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
1	★ Crack Test Dummies Warning Fixed Gear: No top Anchors at the end of pitch II Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney. This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9. 5.7: Climb up blocky/vegetated ledges passed a few bolts to the anchor. Slightly runout but well protected where it counts. 5.9: Follow the crack making use of jamming/chimney/dihedral technique passing a few bolts and old Mexican irons. At one of the Mexican irons, look out right for a bolt, you should come out of the crack and make your way up a bolted slab to the anchor. Continuing in the crack will lead you to unprotectable (without trad gear) moves that are slightly harder than 5.9. 5.10-: A quick boulder problem allowing you to stand on top of the pillar. Uncomforatble belay. There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is a new anchor at the top with two hangers, there is also a rappel down the south side from the top. Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood". With twin 70m ropes you can make it down in a single rappel. 60m would also probably work but this is untested at the moment.	5.9	Sport 75m, 2
2	★ Achtung Rheinstein Arete Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".	5.11a	Sport 29m, 9
3	★★ Getting Wood FA: Dane Bass & Curtis Mai	5.10d	Sport 70m, 2
4	Handsome Mike's Modeling School	5.12a	Sport
5	★★ Aguja Cielo Rey Starts on the slab right of the palm tree and goes up right to the first anchor. From there follow the airy arrete to the top. Each pitch 6 bolts.	5.10a	Sport 60m, 2, 6
6	★★ Hasi Just to the right of 2nd pitch of Aguja Celo Rey. Share anchors with that one. Gold bolts. FFA: Alvaro Peiro	5.11a	Sport 20m, 7
7	★★ Off the Notch Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.	5.10b	Sport 24m, 6
8	★ UberMachismo	5.11a	Sport 67m, 2, 10
9	★ Jungle Honey	5.10d	Sport 26m, 11
10	★ The Fall of Eve	5.12b	Sport 25m
11	★ Dirty Dreams	5.11b	Sport 24m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
5.9	★	Crack Test Dummies	Sport 75m, 2
5.10a	★★	Aguja Cielo Rey	Sport 60m, 2, 6
5.10b	★★	Off the Notch	Sport 24m, 6
5.10d	★★	Getting Wood	Sport 70m, 2
	★	Jungle Honey	Sport 26m, 11
5.11a	★	Achtung Rheinstein Arete	Sport 29m, 9
	★★	Hasi	Sport 20m, 7
	★	UberMachismo	Sport 67m, 2, 10
5.11b	★	Dirty Dreams	Sport 24m
5.12a		Handsome Mike's Modeling School	Sport
5.12b	★	The Fall of Eve	Sport 25m