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Description

The most obvious pillar in the middle of the north facing side of EPC.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach

Across La Quinta Santa Barbara cross the river bed and take the trail starting just left of the camping. It is well marked with signs. Follow Plutonia if in doubt and then Land of the Free.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little farbolted, but thats how they were setted, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just sens a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.12a
2 5.11d
3 5.11d
4 5.12b
5 5.10a
6 5.10d
7 5.11c

Climbs thin face to large ledge half way up. Tends to have run-outs. 2 x 60m ropes recommended.

1 5.12b
2 5.12
3 5.12
4 5.11d
5 5.12
6 5.12
7 5.12
8 5.11a
9 5.10
10 5.10
11 5.12d
12 5.11c
13 5.11
14 5.10
15 5.7

Climbs the cleanest, blankest, rock up the center of the central pillar. A climb made famous after Alex Honnold's free solo ascent.

Rapell down, a 70m rope is enough down to the top of pitch 5, then you need 2 50m ropes.

First pitch has 13 bolts and 45m, a 80m rope brings you down to bolt one and you can downclimb.

1 5.7
2 5.9
1 5.7
2 5.7
3 5.11a

At the end of the 2nd pitch, follow the left bolt line.

1 5.7
2 5.7
3 5.11
4 5.11d
5 5.10d

Climb the first two pitches of "Vida Preciosa", then from the top of the 2nd pitch follow the right bolt line.

18 pitches, up to 5.10d. Originally done on gear, retro-bolted in 1999. Retro-bolting still leaves many runouts, and there is, also, lots of loose rock to keep the sense of adventure alive.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Central Pillar.