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Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little farbolted, but thats how they were setted, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just sens a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Routes

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Grade Route

Unrepeated since first ascent due to huge amounts of loose rock. Several parties have been injured or backed off on this.

(2nd pitch started, but not finished as of 2012.)

1 5.11-
2 5.11-
3 5.9
4 5.8
5 5.8
6 5.8
7 5.4
8 5.12-
9 5.9
10 5.10
11 5.11
12 5.11
13 5.10+
14 5.11
15 5.12
16 5.10
17 5.9
18 5.9
19 5.10
20 5.11
21 5.9
22 5.10
23 5.9
24 5.9
25 5.8
26 5.10
27 5.7

Overview:

  • 'Approach' pitches, 1-6: 5.11-, 11-, 9, 8, 8, 8
  • 'Bivy' Ledge (complete with fire pit, stashed sleeping bag, pads, blankets, dice, backgammon and Yahtzee =)
  • 'Middle' pitches, 7-15: 5.4, 12-/10+A0, 9, 10, 11, 11, 10+, 11, 12/10A0
  • 'Lunch Ledge'
  • 'Upper' pitches, 16-27: 5.10, 9, 9+,10, 11, 9, 10, 9+, 9, 8, 10, 7
  • Descent: WALK OFF

Descent Beta... from the northern summit, walk the knife-edge ridge to the southern summit, turn right, roughly following the ridge-line (but staying slightly below on the southern side) to a notch. one rappel into the col, cross the col, and hike back up to the ridge-line to join the Toro trail at the cross.

NOTES: - this is not just a long 'sport' route, like "Timewave". It is a different beast, altogether, very alpine, adventure climbing. Major commitment, big exposure, traverses, some choss, etc... - you can bail reasonably well up through pitch 17. Rappelling from above that point will be complicated, at best, due to traverses. If you do pitch 18, you are pretty committed to going to the top.

  • during the FA, it was decided that pitch 20 needs another bolt at the crux. Its a little runout and exposed. I will fix this next season, but didn´t want to hold back opening the route to the public. fair warning, however... we fashioned a stick-clip on the spot.
  • I have done a LOT of cleaning, but until the route sees traffic, there will always be some loose rock. pitches 3 and 7 are particularly chossy (but easy).
  • pitches 5 and 6 are not current rappelable, due to the traverse and lack of rings (you could of course leave biners or quicklinks). there is currently a fixed rope. it is in good condition as of this writing.
  • there are still fixed lines on most of the harder sections, pitches 1-2, 8, 10-15. pitch 20 does NOT have a fixed line
  • Linking... most pitches are between 25-30m. all can be rappeled with 60m. most can be linked. 14,15, and 18 you definitely want to pitch out. 19, 20, 21, use your judgement (we chose to pitch them out, but i think you could 20-21). 24-25 i linked, but drag was pretty rough at the top.
  • the photo below was done early on. slight changes in the route were made, and the upper pitch numbers (which were estimated) turned out incorrect. i dont have an original photo to reproduce the image (feel free to send me one, Rancho Sendero is a good vantage point). its not perfect, but its close. it should give you an idea of the route, at least.

Feel free to contact can contact Eric Werfel at eric.werfel@gmail.com with questions.

Set by Eric Werfel, Mar 2018

FA: Eric Werfel & Seth Williams, Mar 2018

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