A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. El Potrero Chico 592 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.476009, 25.949109

Unique Features And Strengths:

Over 500 routes. Lots of multi-pitch sport. Lots of moderate (sub-5.11) sport. Short approaches. Nearby cheap accomodations and camping. Can stay a week, and not need a car.

Description:

Just under an hour northwest of Monterrey, Mexico. This area, just outside the small town of Hidalgo, can be driven to from the US border or you can fly into Monterrey and take a taxi for about $75. You have to see the pictures to understand how impressive the rock is here, dozens of climbing sections - both shade and sunny sides.

The major climbing areas and sections are generally described left right, starting on the east (left) side of the Potrero as one normally approaches it, and as seperated by the road that runs into the Potrero. This lists from first approached to last on the left side, and reverses it from the (detached) spires on the west (right) side and the farthest in to closest to front, then along the outside (front) face to the right.

Access Issues:

Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.

Approach:

Walk about 10 minutes up the road from the camping areas, then approaches get more specific for various cliffs within/around the Potrero.

1.1. Fitness Canyon 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.471184, 25.954070

Description:

This section is outside the Potrero proper, on the front wall, east-side.

Approach:

Drive up the mine road to the end, then hike from the end of the parking lot.

1.1.1. Blubber Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

A small dark brown wall about half way up the trail to the "Fitness Cave" on the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Punch Boogie 5.11dSport 23m, 8
2 Blubber Boy 5.10aSport 23m, 8
3 Cellulite 5.9Sport 23m, 8
4 Fun Fat 5.9Sport 23m, 5

1.1.2. Fitness Cave 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

A cave with some hard routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Manboy Sport Project 24m, 8
2 Cortando Piel 5.13bSport 20m, 7
3 John Project Sport Project 65m, 6
4 ** La Bola de Humo 5.13aSport 27m, 11
5 Total Fitness Sport Project 27m, 10
6 ** Hole in the Universe 5.12bSport 21m, 5
7 ** Courage 5.12bSport 21m, 6
8 Cold Woman Warm Tufa 5.11bSport 9m, 5
9 Serendipity 5.12cSport 17m, 8
10 Beer Belly 5.12cSport 24m, 5
11 Salty Peanuts 5.11cSport 26m, 9
12 Rubbish

Just outside the cave to the right.

5.12bSport 26m, 6

1.2. Canon de los Lobos 33 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.474710, 25.950867

Description:

The first deep canyon on the left (east) side as you enter the Potrero.

1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

First wall on the the left side of the canyon.

Approach:

About 7 minutes up the canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Viva La Revolucion 5.11aSport
2 * Ninos Heroes 5.11Sport
3 * Insurgentes Mexico 5.12Sport
4 The Lizard and the Jihad 5.12dSport
5 Man-boy Joins the Revolution 5.10Sport
6 Emiliano Zapata 5.10Sport
7 Senor Pascual 5.10dSport
8 The Kyber Pass

Primarily an access route for the Nomad wall, includes some steel rungs. NOT bolted for a climber at the 5.5 level.

5.5Sport 37m, 3

1.2.2. Nomad Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

2nd wall on the north side of the canyon.

Approach:

15 minutes up the trail, then climb up "The Kyber Pass".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Syberia 5.11cSport 21m, 6
2 Little Attila 5.12cSport 26m, 9
3 Silk Road 5.12bSport 26m, 8
4 Genghis Khan

2nd pitch is an open project. First pitch goes at 5.12b.

5.12bSport Project 64m, 9
5 Xanadu Sport Project 27m, 10
6 Kublai Khan Sport Project 37m, 11

1.2.3. Culo del Lobo 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

A wall at the very top and back of the Los Lobos canyon.

Approach:

Long nasty scramble up the canyon. 30? minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flesh Bomb 5.12cSport
2 Team Hiltiless 5.12bSport

1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall 17 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This wall is the right side of the Los Lobos canyon.

Routes are described Right to Left, that is from lowest (closest to the road) to farthest up canyon.

Approach:

Routes are accessed by scrambling up the trail/scree along the wall. Try to stay close to the wall, this is generally easier than scrabbling up the scree in the center of the canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 El Cachorro / The Cub 5.7Sport 26m
2 Never Cry Wolf

50' up the trail from "El Cacharro".

Pitch 2, trend right from the anchor.

5.10cSport 50m, 9
3 The Golden Werewolf

Alternate 2nd pitch for "Never Cry Wolf", climb straight up from the anchor on "gold" hangers.

5.10bSport 23m, 10
4 The Anvil

Start 5' right of "The Blacksmith" and finishes at its first anchor. (Can be an alternate first pitch, giving a 5.7, 5.8 two-pitch climb.)

FFA: John and Stella Adams

5.7Sport 12
5 The Blacksmith

Starts 20' right of "Howlin' Wolf". Finishes just below the ridge -- but with a bolt on the ridge if you want to sit up top for the view.

FFA: John and Stella Adams

5.9Sport 12
6 Howlin' Wolf

FA: Magic Ed, Ralph Vega

5.9Sport 34m
7 Zombie Wolf

FA: Magic Ed, Ralph Vega

5.9Sport 43m, 10
8 Senor Natural 5.9Sport 45m
9 Lobos Trabajando 5.11cSport 45m
10 Palm Sex, LIes and Lots of Tape 5.7Sport
11 Rosey Palm and the Five Sisters 5.9Sport
12 Palm Snake

Go right from the first anchor.

5.10cSport
13 Palms Away

Variation on 2nd pitch of Palm Snake - go left after the first anchor.

5.10aSport
14 Control Machete 5.8Sport
15 Will the Wolf Survive?

FA: Magic Ed, Dane Bass, Ralph Vega

5.10aSport 110m, 14
16 Fish and Clips 5.11bSport 91m, 12
17 Whistle and Fish 5.9Sport 25m

1.3. El Fin De Semana 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.475767, 25.950713

Description:

The 2nd canyon on the left side as you enter the Potrero, it is much shallower than the Los Lobos canyon on its left or Estrellas canyon to its right.

1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This is the clean slightly-overhanging golden brown wall across from the entrance to the swimming pools.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pepe y Lupe / Craig Luebben Route

FA: Craig & Sylvia Luebben, 1998

5.10cSport
2 Razorblade Ridge

Climb "Pepe y Lupe" then continue up the ridge for 7 more pitches -- lots of easy 4th & 5th class with the occasional head wall.

5.6 XTrad 300m
3 Shebashite 5.8Sport
4 Same Same But Different 5.10bSport
5 Boltergeist 5.11aSport
6 Sketch Pad

Climbs first 5 bolts of "Scavenger", then angles left on new bolts. Shares anchor with 2nd pitch of "Pepe y Lupe".

5.11Sport
7 Fin de Semana

Climbs first few bolts of "Scavenger" then continues up arete.

5.12dSport
8 Scavenger

Follows old (rusty?) angle iron hangers up and right.

5.10dSport
9 * Zuma Dawg

Starts 15ft right of the old bolts on "Scavenger". Finishes on the last 3 bolts of "Sketchpad".

At 40m, be very careful about lowering.

5.12aSport 46m, 19
10 Prima Donna 5.12Sport
11 Maidito Lunes 5.12dSport
12 Camino del Diablo 5.13cSport
13 Blade Runner 5.11aSport
14 Amigo del Diablo

Variation: start on "Camino del Diablo" and finish on "Hombre de Rifle".

5.13dSport
15 Hombre de Rifle 5.13aSport
16 Sabbath 5.13aSport 42m
17 Never on Friday 5.11Sport
18 Cosmic Intelligence 5.12dSport
19 Mexican Guarantee 5.13aSport

1.3.2. Mojo Slabs 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The dark slab with light streaks at the back of the Fin de Semana canyon.

Approach:

About 5 minutes up the canyon from the gulley.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Otis (Campbell) 5.10aSport 36m
2 Jungle Boogie

Start up "Otis (Campbell)", then continue up and right through the garden, over the ridge then follow the dihedral to the same summit as "Estrellita".

5.10Trad 340m
3 Mojo (Nixo) 5.8Sport 44m
4 Little Ewarwoowar 5.9Sport 24m, 5
5 UFOs, Big Rigs and Burritos

Pitch 2 ends in the Aztec Lounge (pitch 5 of "Estrellita") making this a possible alternate start for that climb.

FA: Craig McCrudden & David Hadden - 1999

5.9Sport 220m, 10
6 Monte Blanca

Climb the ridge right of "UFOs Big Rigs and Burritos" into the big dihedral and then up to the same peak as "Estrellita".

Probably shares upper pitches with "Jungle Boogie".

5.9Trad 340m

1.4. Las Estrellas 71 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.474868, 25.949762

Description:

The Estrellas canyon is the 2nd deep canyon on the left (east) side of the Potrero as you enter.

1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall 31 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.475274, 25.950047

Description:

The lower part of the left (north) wall of the Estrellas canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Los Tres Chiflados

One pitch climb with three variations (right to left): Larry (5.11b), Moe (5.11a) and Curly (5.10b).

5.11bSport 27m, 7
2 La Pantera Rosa 5.10dSport 30m, 7
3 Jesus Amarillo 5.10aSport 30m, 9
4 23 Diablos

Needs a 70m rope.

5.12dSport 43m, 19
5 2 Dead Chipmunks and 1 Dead Beaver

Needs a 70m rope.

5.11cSport 40m, 15
6 3 R System 5.11bSport 30m, 11
7 Rat Bastard 5.11aSport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 *** Estrellita (5.10b Variation) / Estrellita

This is, probably, the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find.

  1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

  2. (5.9) More bolts.

  3. (5.9) More bolts to follow.

  4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards (up is 5.11), around the corner, then upwards again.

  5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

  6. (5.7) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

  7. (5.7) Keep going up the ramp.

  8. (5.10a) Bolts.

  9. (5.9) Bolts.

  10. (5.10a) Bolts.

  11. (5.10b, 5.9+ variation) Bolts.

  12. 5.8 Bolts.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

5.10bSport 340m
9 *** Estrellita (5.11 variation)

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level.

Hard variations are:

  1. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor.

  2. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.

See "Estrellita (5.10b variation)" for descent information.

FA: Ed Wright & Craig McCrudden & Ismael Garza - 2000

5.11bSport 340m, 12
10 Estrellita pitch 1 5.9Sport 20m
11 Pacheco Poder 5.11bSport 29m
12 Mr Fluffers wild ride 5.9Sport 40m
13 Marklar 5.10dSport 30m
14 Planet Marklar 5.11-Sport 30m
15 Cartel 5.9Sport
16 Marklar Man 5.11bSport 27m
17 Take Me to Your Marklar 5.10cSport
18 Pink Harmonica 5.10bSport
19 Lickety Split 5.10dSport
20 Send It Pink Pocket Express 5.11aSport
21 Machismo 5.11aSport
22 ** Landscaping 5.11cSport 18m
23 Ulack

Shares anchor with "Landscaping"

5.12aSport
24 Curse of the Furry Beast 5.12aSport
25 Cinco de Flyo 5.12Sport
26 Channelize your Hatred 5.12Sport
27 ** Thunderkiss 5.12aSport 290m
28 Cumpleanos 5.12bSport
29 Fully Engaged

Shares anchor with "Kung Pao Pupert".

5.12aSport 26m
30 Kung Pao Pupert 5.10dSport
31 Good Kung Fu 5.11dSport

1.4.2. Club Mex Wall 17 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.474202, 25.949508

Description:

This is the upper (up-canyon) section of the south wall of the Estrellas canyon.

Approach:

Climb farther up canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Devil's Tongue 5.12aSport 64m, 15
2 100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall

70m rope.

5.13aSport 38m, 12
3 Telegram For Mongo 5.12aSport 23m
4 Blazing Saddles 5.12cSport 30m
5 Shattered Trust 5.11Trad 91m
6 *** Fear of Flyin' 5.12aSport 30m
7 Salty Dog

Very nice rout, the name of the rout is written on the rock in blue ink in a yellow box, hard to find

5.12aSport 30m
8 Conflict 5.12bSport
9 Club Mex 5.12cSport 21m
10 Battle Royale

FA: Kurt Smith, Ned Harris

FFA: Sonny Trotter, Al Thompson, 2005

5.13cSport 230m
11 The Worm

Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog".

5.12cSport
12 Tales from the Dark Side

Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog".

Sport Project 120m, 12
13 The Golden Gizmo

Starts from the large ledge. Access by climbing "Fear of Flyin'" or "Salty Dog".

Sport Project 58m, 10
14 Gusada Negra

Finishes at the same anchor as the first pitch of "Super Nova". Can be used as a "softer" start for the easy cruising of the upper pitches of "Super Nova".

5.10dSport 27m
15 ** Super Nova 5.11aSport 240m
16 ** Super Nova (10d variation)

Do "Gusada Negra" as the first pitch instead of the regular 5.11a pitch.

5.10dSport 250m
17 The Weiss Cracks

Can be rappelled on anchors/sub-anchors up high and "Super Nova" anchors down lower.

5.11cTrad 300m

1.4.3. South Wall 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.475307, 25.949687

Description:

The right-side of the canyon.

Routes described right-to-left (as found going up-canyon).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Three Border Phatties 5.10aSport
2 Sour Grapes 5.10aSport
3 Tami's Pillar

Climbs the east end of the pillar.

5.8Sport 26m
4 Wright of Passage 5.10cSport
5 L.A.R.R. 5.10Trad 67m
6 Babylon by Bus 5.11bSport 45m
7 Where's Rudy 5.11bSport 50m
8 ** The Sword 5.11dSport 30m, 13
9 Earth, Moon, Planets 5.9Sport
10 Die Heed Rail 5.9Sport
11 Hand Crack

Ed says 5.11a, Dane says 5.12. Climb it and see?

5.11aTrad
12 Indus 5.10cSport
13 The Tombstone

5.10d if you just climb the crack and don't use the arete.

5.10aSport
14 Fornax 5.12bSport
15 The Invisible Seam 5.11dSport 27m
16 Pupert's Mind Trix 5.11bSport
17 Tia 5.12Sport
18 Simple Sport Project
19 Andromeda

Obvious wide crack at top of canyon. Vegetated. Trad, but might have bolted belays.

5.10Trad 120m

1.4.4. Plum Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

An upper (up the face, not the canyon) wall on the south side of the canyon.

Climbs described Right to Left.

(As of 2012, there are a number of unknown/project routes off this ledge.)

Approach:

Climb Tami's Pillar or the first pitch of Three Border Phatties.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Paparazzi Arete 5.11aSport
2 Que Paso Payaso 5.11aSport
3 How the Chorizo is Made 5.10dSport
4 Technical Dooficulty 5.10cSport

1.5. Mini Super 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.475596, 25.949299

Description:

A small south-facing wall just across the road from the "Scrutinizer" wall. A good introductory set of single-pitch climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Run For The Border

Starts far left, almost on the back side.

Awkward, off-balance and twisty.

5.8Sport 23m, 10
2 Rey de Enfierno 5.10dSport 27m
3 SeisSeisOcho / 668

Start next to the cement pillar. (Cement pillar is on, rebar is off.)

5.8Sport 15m, 4
4 Bo Risa 5.11Sport 14m, 4
5 Chicklets 5.11aSport 17m, 4
6 Chuffinator 5.11cSport 18m, 5
7 Baad Monkey 5.10aSport 40m, 8
8 Honor Among Thieves 5.8Sport 27m
9 Left-over Man 5.9Sport 26m
10 ** El Volvo Scorcho 5.9Sport 24m, 10
11 Exsqueeze Me

Kind of sqeezed in...

5.8Sport 24m, 7
12 Hey Buddy, You Gonna Eat That? 5.8Sport 26m
13 Muffin Man 5.11dSport 29m, 11
14 Matacumba 5.10bSport 27m, 9
15 Bone Factory 5.12bSport 35m, 10
16 El Curandero 5.12aSport 26m
17 ** La Presa 5.11bSport 29m, 8
18 ** Coca Cola

F.A. Adam Knoff

5.10bSport 26m
19 ** Cerveza

F.A. Kurt

5.10bSport 26m
20 * Chili Dog 5.10cSport 26m
21 * Empanada 5.10cSport 26m
22 Pimpanada

FA: Dane Bass

5.9Sport 27m, 7
23 Lamb Nuts

FA: Dane Bass

5.10cSport 27m, 7
24 * Mas Panza Que Pelo

Starts 10 yards uphill from Empanada and climbs thru A-frame roof. F.A. Tami, Magic Ed, Ismael Garza.

5.10aSport 27m
25 Chicharrones

FA: Dane Bass, Rick Ross

5.9Sport
26 Super Maxi Express Guey

FA: Dane Bass, Rick Ross

5.9Sport

1.6. TNT Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.474909, 25.948851

Description:

Dark vegetated wall up and right of the "Mini Super" wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tortilla Flat 5.11bSport 55m, 10
2 TNT Route

It looks like a 3rd pitch starts -- but it is 6 bolts to nowhere.

5.10aSport
3 Ruta 66

Shares anchor with first pitch of "TNT Route".

5.9Sport
4 Bogus Journey / Scud

2nd pitch is called Scud.

5.9Sport 60m
5 Duck and Cover 5.8Sport 30m
6 Agua de Coco

2 60m ropes needed.

5.10dSport 110m, 15
7 Baked Fresh Daily 5.10cSport 26m
8 No Habla Espanol

FA: Jaime Navarrete & Andy Baldassar

5.11bSport 95m, 14
9 Band of Brothers 5.10dSport
10 Inglorious Bastards 5.12aSport

1.7. The Vatican 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: -100.474805, 25.948393

Description:

This is the high hanging canyon across from the tin pavilion and above the wave.

Approach:

Climb "Argos", or the first pitch of "Kotu Mundi" or "Sandra" in "The Conundrums".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Atheist 5.11+Sport
2 Jesus Cabellero 5.12aSport
3 Soul Cages 5.13aSport
4 La Puerta 5.10 XTrad
5 Gods Great Thingy

Set top rope on "St. Theresa in Extacy" and use directional bolt provided.

5.12aTop rope
6 St. Theresa in Extacy 5.12aSport
7 The Pieta 5.12bSport
8 Buena Onda 5.11aSport

1.8. The Conundrums 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -100.474986, 25.948000

Description:

This area is directly above "The Wave".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kotu Mondi 5.11bSport 120m
2 Argos 5.10cSport 50m
3 Sandra

First pitch has been bolted and partially cleaned to provide access to "The Vatican".

5.9 XTrad 370m
4 Aesop's

Start "Sandra" then move right at the first palm tree to top-rope the smooth concave face.

5.12Top rope
5 Pocket Socrates 5.13Sport 30m
6 *** Cyclops 5.13aSport 30m
7 ** Malinche 5.12-Sport 30m
8 Sin Soul

Old trad route that has been bolted.

5.10aSport 30m
9 El Pirata

Another retro-bolted trad route.

To rap on one rope, use anchor from "Sin Soul" as an intermediate.

5.9Sport 42m
10 ** The Raven 5.11aSport 90m
11 The Rattler 5.10dSport 90m
12 The New Ape Man 5.10aSport 60m
13 La Primavera

Might find 3-4 bolts per pitch, but should bring gear.

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.

5.11-Trad 100m
14 Mexican Radio

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.

5.10Trad 180m

1.9. The Wave 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.475520, 25.948317

Description:

The obvious wave-shaped formation directly across from the tin pavilion.

Some pitches are long -- be careful lowering.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Espantasuegra 5.8Sport 26m
2 La Pasada 5.11dSport 33m
3 La Baca-Chenta 5.10cSport 35m, 12
4 La Ola 5.10bSport 33m
5 Tufa the Price of One

Climb the obvious long tufa up the wall. 5.11 if you use the pockets right of the tufa, 5.12 if you only climb the tufa the whole way.

5.12cSport 41m, 14
6 Surfin' The Wave

Short 2nd pitch - can do as one pitch with 14 draws.

5.10dSport 40m, 11
7 Going to Maui 5.8Sport

1.10. Lower Sense of Religion 58 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.475551, 25.947066

Description:

This is the large expanse of rock facing southwards into the Potrero on the east-side. It starts out just above the aroyo, and extends up to obvious bend i the wall characterized by a steep orange bulge topped by a gray bulb -- or from the road to about 400m up the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Dope Ninja

Six pitch mountaineering route with bolts. Lots of fun.

Descent is tricky.

FA: Dane Bass, Matt Greco, Ralph Vega, Dottie Cross

5.10bSport 180m
2 Feral-Dover Ridge

Climb "Dope Ninja" then continue up the ridge to a large ledge. Easier terrain, 3 pitches up a headwall, short pitch out right, up a dihedral.

Walk along top to top of "Devotion" and rappel that for the descent.

5.10c XTrad 760m
3 * Cactus Pile 5.10bSport 94m, 10
4 I Believe I Can Fly 5.8Sport 30m
5 Emilio's Posse 5.9Sport 30m
6 * This Dog's Life

FA: Rusty Baillie, Magic Ed

5.10aSport 28m
7 Caguama Queen

FA: Tami

5.9Sport 28m
8 ** Motarola 5.10cSport 26m, 9
9 Kelso's Way

FA: Mike Quigley & Magic Ed

5.10bSport 37m
10 ** Team Hilti

FA: Kurt Smith

5.10dSport 33m
11 * Monkey Boy

FA: Jon Prado

5.11aSport 30m
12 *** Snott Girlz

FA: Curtis Mai, Todd McCray

5.10dSport 180m
13 *** Bubble Boyz / Bamboozle Bubble Boy

Climbs the left side of the bulge, right of Snott Girlz.

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

5.12aSport 34m
14 * Stone Groovin' 5.11dSport 30m
15 * King Mota 5.12aSport 33m
16 * Fat Boy Slim 5.11bSport 28m
17 ** Motavation 5.11aSport 30m
18 ** Motavision 5.10dSport 30m
19 ** El Grifo 5.11aSport 33m
20 *** Pancho Villa Rides Again

First pitch was originally climbed as a trad route called, "The Adventures of Mr Bean".

5.10cSport 160m, 14
21 * Sleepwalkin 5.9Sport 26m
22 * Tlaloc 5.10bSport 30m
23 Pins and Needles 5.10dSport 28m
24 * Uncle Crusty

Doesn't start from the base -- access by "Cactus Dancing" or "Pins and Needles".

5.12aSport 30m
25 Soul Slinger

Doesn't start from the base -- access by "Cactus Dancing" or "Pins and Needles".

5.12aSport 28m
26 Cactus Dancing 5.10bSport 26m
27 La Vaca 5.11+Sport 55m
28 Abuelito Dime Tu

retro-bolted trad route.

5.8Sport 26m
29 Cresent Moon / Death of a Tradman

retro-bolted trad route

5.10+Sport 27m
30 Hey Buddy Nice Cock 5.12-Sport 91m
31 Onward Through The Fog

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

5.11cSport 29m
32 *** Two Pump Chump / Two Pumped Chump

FA: Kim Carpenter & Dane Bass

5.11aSport 61m
33 Petting Zoo 5.12-Sport 30m
34 Red Helmet 5.11cSport 21m
35 Eldorado Chuy / Eldorado Chewy

FA: Kim Carpenter & Dane Bass

5.12aSport 61m
36 Spies, Lies and Naked Thighs 5.12-Sport
37 ** Treasure of the Sierra Madre

FA: Paul Irby and Magic Ed

5.10cSport 230m, 12
38 Ulf Route 5.9Trad 30m
39 Drillin and Swillin 5.11cSport
40 Juggalo 5.11aSport 27m
41 All Fun and Games

Shares anchor with "Juggalo".

5.10bSport 27m, 12
42 Paz Para Vlequez 5.10cSport
43 Rusty's Crack

retro-bolted trad route

5.9Sport 30m
44 *** Leap Of Faith 5.11aSport 90m
45 Mystery Niner 5.9Sport 26m
46 Double Trouble 5.10dSport 10
47 *** Frenesi 5.10dSport 26m
48 Beaver Heaver 5.11dSport 30m, 10
49 The Flaming Bearded Lady 5.11bSport 30m, 10
50 Double Cherry Pie 5.10cSport 53m
51 *** Fierce Invalids

FA: Jim Taylor, Daniel D. Eubank, Myrick, 2002

5.12aSport 100m
52 ** Cloud Nine

FA: Jim Taylor, Dane Bass, 2003

5.11bSport 100m
53 * Fear of a Curved Planet 5.12aSport 55m
54 El Viajero del Tiempo 5.12aSport 50m
55 Microcosm 5.12dSport 45m
56 Agujero Del Espacio 5.10cSport
57 Diez Algo 5.10dSport
58 The Luckiest Donkey 5.13aSport 100m, 10

1.11. Upper Sense of Religion 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.474236, 25.946215

Description:

This is the upper section of the wall, hike farther up and in.

1.11.1. La Playa 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Penguin

Clean White Dihedral left of "Pink Panty Queen"

Sport Project
2 Pink Panty Queen 5.11cSport 37m, 13
3 The Riddler 5.13bSport 44m, 18
4 Repo Man 5.13aSport 41m, 6
5 Repo Cage

Variant: climb "Repo Man" to just past the roof, then trend right to finish on the anchor for "Golden Cage".

5.13bSport 38m, 14

1.11.2. The Pride Enclave 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Golden Cage 5.13bSport 35m
2 Golden Man

variant: Climb "Golden Cage" until after the roof, then cross to "Repo Man".

5.12dSport 36m
3 The Wrecking Ball 5.13cSport 35m
4 The Little Shop of Horrors ProjectSport Project
5 Pipi Pocket 5.11aSport 21m
6 Usul 5.12bSport 56m
7 Usul Left 5.12dSport 56m
8 Jesse James 5.13bSport 56m
9 Pride 5.13bSport 110m
10 Devotion 5.11dSport 610m, 14

1.11.3. New Sim City 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Routes are below the pride buttress accessed by a fixed line to an elevated ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Just Sack-up and Send It 5.12aSport 13
2 The Hidalgo Stranger

70m rope.

5.12Sport 13
3 Slam Hound 5.12cSport

1.11.4. The Pride Buttress 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Old Cold Shuts / O.C.S. Route 5.11aSport 24m, 7
2 Leisure Suit

Shares first bolt with "Deep Shag".

5.11cSport 27m
3 Deep Shag 5.13-Sport 67m, 10
4 Army in Your Panties 5.11dSport 42m

1.11.5. The Mileski Wall 17 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Permanent Vacation 5.11Sport 30m
2 La Mano de Dios 5.12Sport 33m
3 Mother Superior 5.12-Sport 30m
4 Shakti 5.12-Sport 30m
5 Pope on a Rope 5.11+Sport 30m
6 *** Mr. Big 5.12bSport 41m
7 Twist of Fate 5.11dSport 41m
8 Wyoming Route

Starts on "Rain of Gold" and traverses left. Indistinct and hard to find.

5.11Unknown
9 Weeping Jesus 5.13-Sport 36m
10 Rain of Gold 5.13Sport 40m
11 Little Elvis 5.11bSport 27m
12 Roman Holiday 5.13aSport 120m, 12
13 Chutes and Ladders 5.11aSport 91m
14 Rest Day Alla Pagoda

Sparsely bolted, long run-outs.

5.13aSport 180m, 14
15 Incredible Hand Crack of the Potrero

retro-bolted trad route

5.10aSport 27m
16 Gilberto and His Donkey

As of 2012 guides, home-made bolt hangars, trustworthiness unkown and long runouts.

5.12c A0Sport 180m
17 CCR (Canadian Chicks Rule) 5.11aSport

1.11.6. The High Life Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Anti-Hero

FA: Cindy Smith, Rex Wolters

5.12bSport 47m, 8
2 Addicted to the High Life

FA: Edgardo Baca, John Gonzalez

5.12cSport
3 El Cocui

FA: Edgardo Baca

5.12aSport
4 (Name Unknown)

FA: John Gonzalez

5.12cSport

1.12. The Spires 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.477715, 25.947465

Description:

The obvious pair of spires on the right side, past the cattle gate.

Approach:

Walk past the cattle gate to hobo camp, then follow the blue trail up to the right towards the Outrage wall, and turn left at the red trail.

1.12.1. North Side 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This is the side that you first see as you walk in to the Potrero.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crack Test Dummies

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on old iron rings. It is short and easy -- and the old iron is still solid (as of 2012).

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood".

5.9Sport 75m
2 Achtung Rheinstein Arete

Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".

5.11aSport 29m, 9
3 Getting Wood

FA: Dane Bass, Curtis Mai

5.10dSport 70m
4 Handsome Mike's Modeling School 5.12aSport
5 ** Aguja Celo Rey 5.10aSport 67m
6 Off the Notch

Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.

5.10bSport 24m, 6
7 UberMachismo 5.11aSport 67m, 10
8 Jungle Honey 5.10dSport 26m, 11
9 The Fall of Eve 5.12dSport
10 Dirty Dreams 5.11bSport 24m

1.12.2. South Side 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The side facing farther into the Potrero.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Uphill Route

Climb the western ridge of the uphill spire.

5.7Trad 61m
2 Tool 5.12dSport 55m
3 *** Pangea 5.11dSport 24m, 6
4 Gondwanaland 5.12dSport 50m, 14
5 Through the Looking Glass

Starts on the south face of the uphill spire, then through the "looking glass" (tunnel between the spires), and up the north face of the downhill spire.

5.10dSport 56m
6 Peek-a-Boo Jesus 5.12aSport 26m, 11
7 Aspire

Bolt line up the face of the down-hill spire.

5.11cSport 46m, 17
8 Young Crankenstein 5.11dSport 34m, 16
9 Easy Over

Shares anchor with first pitch of "Sunnyside Up"

5.10dSport 12
10 Sunnyside Up

Sub-anchor for rappel on (long) 2nd pitch.

5.10cSport 69m, 15
11 Downhill Route

Climb the downhill ridge (the ridge facing the road) of the downhill (eastern) spire.

5.9Trad 75m

1.13. The Dihedrals 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.479410, 25.946831

Description:

The Dihedrals are the obvious set of dihedrals up and left of "The Outrage Wall". Despite the name, lots of crack climbing.

Approach:

Take the trail up towards the spires, and go up and over the saddle above the spires, then continue upwards

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Remember the Alamo

Shares 2nd pitch with "The Texas Tumble".

5.9Sport
2 The Texas Tumble

Slab to crack to slab.

5.10dSport 46m
3 Bicho Borracho

Technical slab.

5.12aSport 43m
4 * Osito / Little Bear

Climb the hand/fist crack in the small corner. Old trad route now bolted.

5.9Sport 23m
5 Cumbia

20 feet right of "Osito" - thin technical face to finger-tips crack.

5.12cSport 15m
6 Taco Butter

FA: Mike Williams

5.13bSport 32m, 8
7 *** Dead Man Walking

Long hand crack trad route retro-bolted. A classic.

5.9Sport 40m, 16
8 Crack-A-Mole 5.11cSport 67m, 14
9 All Cracked Up and No Place to Go 5.11aSport 30m, 9
10 Monica Lewinsky's Crack 5.11aSport 30m, 11

1.14. The Surf Bowl 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.479867, 25.947356

Description:

The shallow cave right of "The Dihedrals", high up on the wall behind "The Spires".

Approach:

Take the trail up towards the spires, and go up and over the saddle above the spires, then continue upwards.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blue Fin 5.12aSport 30m, 12
2 Blucifer

Start on "Surfer Rosa" for 5 bolts, then move left to finish on "Blue Fin".

5.12dSport
3 *** Surfer Rosa

Tufas!

5.13aSport 29m, 9
4 *** Nemo 5.13bSport 29m, 10
5 Big Blue 5.13cSport 29m, 7
6 *** Bottom Feeder 5.12dSport 27m, 7
7 * Guppie 5.12aSport 29m, 8

1.15. Time Wave Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Vegetated buttress between "The Surf Bowl" and "The Outrage Wall".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Time Wave Zero

Fantastic climb!!!! Careful on the raps, knot end of ropes to be sure!

The 5.12a can be french freed.

FA: Paul Irby and Dane Bass, 2002

5.12aSport 700m
2 * Jambo Bwano

[dagibbs edit note, 2012] Neither Dane's guide (The Whole Enchilada, 2007) nor Ed's book (Climb El Potrero Chico, 17th ed 2012) mention this route, or anything similar to this route in this area. But, there is a topo for the Outrage Wall in the back of Ed's book that diagrams "Jambo Bwana (TWZ)" beside the Surf Bowl. So, this pretty clearly is the first few pitches of TWZ (until the first garden). Maybe TWZ was only bolted part way when this was first posted? Or the climber thought the 3rd class was the end? [/edit note]

The approach is long, follow the spire path and keep going, the route is on the far left [edit: actually far right] of the Surf bowl. Still very chaucy rock, needs more ascents to clean the route. The crux pitch is made harder in part due to the crimper holds crumpeling while most inconvinient. There is a fixed rope at the top, to rap the top pitch.

-z- you are correct, JumboBwano was the original route, and Timewave was added from the 3rd class ledge. It is in my 2001 guide :) ... Timewave was added in 2003 I think. Ed and I tried for the 2nd ascent, but were overtaken by a simul climbing Mexican team. They were not going to let us take the 2nd! We only made it to the eighteenth pitch, and they past us on the way down before we got done!

5.11bSport

1.16. The Outrage Wall 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.478156, 25.948418

Description:

The black and white streaked orange overhanging wall on the inside of the Potrero, on the west side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La Primera Vez 5.10bSport 76m, 12
2 *** esperandote

ruta de dos largos primer largo de 30 metros con reunion y segundo largo aproximadamente 23 metros . proyecto abierto. es equipar los siguientes largos por encima. equipo necesario 15 anillas y cuerda de 60 metros minimo. la ruta comienza a la izquierda de el sendero del diablo a unos 10 metros subiendo .

Set by carlos vargas chacha

FA: carlos vargas zambrano chacha, 2013

Sport Project 60m, 14
3 *** El Sendero Diablo

Excellent climb with lots of variation in technique, in the shade most of the day. The rappel is tricky, be sure and clip the bolts on the way down to avoid dangeling in the void.

5.11cSport 180m
4 * El Mono Dedo 5.11dSport 26m, 8
5 Flim Flam Man

use 70m rope

5.11dSport 40m, 12
6 * Kung Fupert 5.12dSport 55m, 14
7 * Afro-Juan 5.12Sport 120m, 12
8 For a Few Excuses More

use 70m rope

5.12bSport 35m, 14
9 A Fistful of Excuses 5.12aSport 30m, 10
10 *** No Excuses 5.11aUnknown
11 *** Eternal Fatalist 5.11cUnknown
12 *** Despachadora de Gomitas 5.11aSport
13 Tax Day 5.12aSport 29m, 9
14 Love Removal Machine

usa a 70m rope or 2-60m ropes

5.11Sport 46m, 12
15 New Bolts

Shares first bolt with Love Removal Machine

5.11bSport 46m, 10
16 Steel Pulse

This route gets you to Bronco Bowl

5.12dSport 70m, 10
17 *** Mothership Connection 5.13aSport 73m, 14
18 British Invasion 5.12aSport
19 Hurdy Gurdy Man

The extension of this route is a 5.13d called "Enrage"

5.12aSport 30m, 13
20 *** Habanero/Time For Livin' 5.13Sport 180m, 4
21 Job Disgraced 5.13aSport 43m, 12
22 Job Restored 5.12dSport 43m, 14
23 Habanero Sunday 5.11bSport 27m, 8
24 *** Palm Sunday 5.12dSport 43m, 12
25 Cryin Brian Sport 30m, 14
26 Slippery Down Under 5.13dSport 100m, 13
27 ** Devil's Cabana Boy 5.13aSport 150m, 15
28 Trepination

Fifty feet left of the old mine.

5.13cSport 70m, 16
29 * Heart and Soul 5.12bSport 40m, 12
30 * Heartline 5.12aSport 46m, 14
31 * Broken Heart 5.11bSport 50m, 14

1.16.1. Bronco Bowls 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.477802, 25.948502

Description:

This is a cave that is located about 150' up on the right side of the Outrage Wall. Generally accessed by first pitch of "Steel Pulse".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Steel Pulse 5.12dSport 70m, 10
2 * Fit For Life 5.12bSport 24m, 6
3 *** Celestial Omnibus (bolted tufa left of the 2nd pitch of Steel Pulse) 5.12Sport

1.17. The Jungle Wall 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.476829, 25.948891

Description:

This cliff is one of the easiest to find -- it is the big vegetated slab behind the tin pavilion.

Several of EPC's classic multi-pitch go up this wall.

Approach:

Step over the aqueduct and walk past the (mostly) abandoned picnic area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Robin Hood

Starts left of "Stairway to Nowhere", up to its summit, further up the ridge into a large bowl, then up to the summit of "Time Wave Zero".

Descent: rappel TWZ.

5.10dTrad 760m
2 Stairway to Nowhere

Mixed gear and bolts, seldom climbed and hard to find.

5.10dMixed 120m, 10
3 Tamarindo

Climb the gully just left of "Las Chimuelas".

5.5Trad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Las Chimuelas

Walk up the trail made of concrete tires leftwards from the tin pavilion until you get to the left-most set of bolts, just before the gulley that is "Tamirindo". The first pitch trends leftwards, avoiding the obvious roof.

FA: Magic Ed, Tami, Ismael Garza

5.9Sport 90m
5 Warifikis

Start as per "Las Chimuelas", but after 3rd bolt follow bolt-line straight up to the left side of the roof.

5.11cSport 35m
6 * Jungle Boy

Shares start with "Las Chimuelas" and "Warifikis", but goes over the roof at an easier part than Warifikis.

Climb up and over the roof. Then up slab above.

5.9Sport 55m
7 Maria la Sabrosa

Ed rates this 5.10a, Dane rates it 5.8. I split the difference. :)

FA: Dane Bass

5.9Sport 34m

The next three routes ("Jungle Fever", "Voodoo Trance", and "Hot Rock Global Challenge") are on a wall above the ledge/garden on the left side of the face. Climb the first three pitches of "Jungle Moutaineering", then walk leftwards up the 3rd class trail along the base of the face to find them.

8 Jungle Fever

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

This is the last route along the trail (left-most).

5.10aSport 61m, 12
9 Voodoo Trance

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

Pitch 4 has a 5.11b variation -- go straight up through the overhanging dihedral for the 11b, or up a ramp before re-joining the dihedral.

5.10dSport 180m, 12
10 Hot Rock Global Challenge

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

This is the first line of bolts that will be found on the wall.

5.10cSport 21m, 7
11 * Jungle Mountaineering

Climb the obvious clean water streak right of the Jungle Boy roof, on the generally left side of the wall.

5.10aSport 120m
12 ** Yankee Clipper

The summit register is at the end of pitch 13, most people skip the last two pitches, and, especially, the last pitch.

5.10bSport 460m, 12
13 *** Space Boyz

This Potrero classic was bolted entirely on the weekends. Starts just north of the pavilion. Loose rock. Helmet recommended. Please be careful of the partying Mexicans below. This route has been climbed in 2 1/2 hours, car to car.

FA: Curtis Mai, Todd McCray

5.10dSport 300m, 12
14 CDC & J 5.8Sport 34m, 8
15 The Grafiti Route 5.8Sport 27m, 5
16 *** Black Cat Bone

Starts just left of the tree climbing close to the aqueduct. Climbs the black streak through the large roof right of "Space Boyz".

FA: Magic Ed, Dane Bass

5.10dSport 270m, 14

1.17.1. The Cat House 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A small clean wall about 100ft up the cliff, with 3 climbs off it. (Or, 4, if you do the 2nd pitch of "Black Cat Bone".)

Approach:

Climb the first pitch of Black Cat Bone to the big ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 CatManDo 5.9Sport 29m, 15
2 Black Catillac 5.11bSport 30m, 12
3 Pussy Galore 5.10dSport 30m, 9

1.18. The Central Scrutinizer 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.476534, 25.949287

Description:

This is the large clean buttress on your right after you pass the Pool Area and fenced off base of "The Virgin Canyon". It runs until the big tree against the wall on the aqueduct.

Approach:

Step off the road, over the aqueduct. You could, if you had actually driven to EPC (or up to the Potrero from camp) actually belay most of these routes from your car.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Slip of the Tongue

Climb up narrow slab section to high first bolt (shared with "Upside Down Cracker", then follow bolts leftward.

Shares anchor with "Blood Meridian".

FA: Dane Bass, Ralph Vega

5.7Sport 26m, 6
2 Upside Down Cracker

Shares start and first bolt with "Slip of the Tongue", then goes right to the small bulge, over it, and then follows the obvious corner up and to the left. Anchor is on top of the big boulder/roof at the top of the corner.

5.8Sport 35m, 9
3 Full Throttle

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This is the left-most (highest) route on the ramp.

5.11aSport 29m, 9
4 * Blood Meridian

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct.

Starts same as "Golden Puff" (shares first 2 bolts), then follows bolts across the middle of the wall to the anchors for "Slip of the Tongue". Traverse is difficult to clean on lower/rappel.

5.9Sport 26m, 6
5 Golden Puff

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct.

Shares first 2 bolts with "Blood Meridian", but then continues up.

5.10dSport 30m, 7
6 Sabrosa

This route starts on the large left-angling third class ramp by the orange pole on the aqueduct. This route is the first set of bolts up the ramp.

FA: Mario Cantu

5.9Sport 21m, 7
7 Something Old, Something New / Old Bolts

Old Bolts recently (between 2004 and 2012) replaced.

5.8Sport 24m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Fupa / Foopa

Up then curves left towards bulge and more up-left to share anchors with "Something Old, Something New".

FA: Dane Bass, Rick Ross

5.8Sport 26m, 6
9 Canadian Route 5.11aSport 55m
10 Joe's Garage

Sometimes done as a single pitch.

5.9Unknown 50m, 11
11 Mr P. Mosh 5.10bSport 26m, 8
12 ** Gringo Disco

Long and sustained. Don't confuse the anchors for "Mr. P. Mosh" as part of the climb -- though they can be very useful for rappel to get down with a single rope.

5.11bSport 50m, 14
13 Central Scrutinizer

Follows old rusty bolts, with exciting runouts. (Rap anchors 1/2 way -- or treat as 2 pitches.)

5.11a RSport 50m
14 Mecasuit 5.11aSport 52m, 13
15 Bubba Loui 5.10cSport 49m, 8
16 ** Quick Draw McGraw

First pitch if 5.10 if you stay out of the corner and on the face to the right.

Can be combined in one pitch with 18 draws.

5.10dSport 61m, 10
17 Monster Truck

Looking up into the Potrero from the camping area, there is an obvious steep ridge line up the right side of the Potrero -- that's Monster Truck, the whole ride line.

Do the first two pitches of "Quick Draw McGraw", then continue up the ridge following the path of least resistance when the ridge looks harder than 5.9.

Lots and lots and lots of pitches, with generous chunks of 3rd class, too.

5.9 XTrad 1800m
18 Bazookaed in Monterrey

Climb the large corner right of "Quick Draw McGraw".

5.10cSport
19 * Shake Hands with Shorty

This route has been eliminated due to a dangerous loose block.

5.10aSport
20 Bury Me Standing 5.11aSport 55m, 8
21 Bling Bling 5.9Sport 37m, 8

1.19. The Virgin Canyon 85 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.477556, 25.950315

Description:

This is the first deep canyon on the right as you walk into the park, just past the swimming pools.

Walls are ordered left-right along the canyon, when facing the side of the canyon that wall is on. (That is, clockwise around the canyon, starting with the first wall on the lowest point of the left (north-facing) side of the canyon.

Due to the easy approach (up stairs), the abundance of good climbs, and the tendency to be shaded, the lower walls of the Virgin canyon are very popular, and can be quite busy on weekend days as locals come out to climb them.

Approach:

Enter the pools and walk up the stairs. Or, walk to the left side of the canyon and step up around the edge of the chain link fence and up the path.

If walking up the stairs, you will hit the north wall of the canyon at "Cat Wall" when you first get to a rock wall. If you don't enter at the pools, but by cutting aorund the end of the fence, you'll be at the "Surf Board" wall.

1.19.1. Surf Board 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The lowest area of the virgin canyon, a small clean wall just past the fence.

Approach:

Easiest access is to hop over the fence at the right end of Scrutinizer, then hike about 60 ft up the trail.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 FnF Bomb 5.10aSport 29m, 8
2 ** XL Puff Sneaker 5.11dSport 21m, 6
3 ** The Popsicle Kings 5.10bSport 23m, 6
4 * Doof Crack

The obvious crack up the right side of the Surf Board.

Dane says 5.7, Ed 5.9. Averaged to 5.8. :) (With good crack technique -- probably is 5.7, but feels like 5.9 to a face climber.)

5.8Sport 27m, 5

1.19.2. Cat Wall 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.477016, 25.949948

Description:

When the stairs from the pool area hit the wall, this is Cat Wall. The stairs meet the wall about at "Cat Daddy" and "The Cat's Meow".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La Flakita

Dane says 5.11c, Ed 5.10c. One is, likely, a typo.

5.11cSport 27m, 10
2 Putas de Fuego 5.10Sport 30m, 10
3 ** Blind Faith

Needs a 70m rope. Pitch 2, at roof -- 3 lines of bolts diverge, left goes nowhere, center goes over roof at 5.11a, right goes around roof and back at 5.10d.

Also, a 70m rope won't descend the first pitch, rap to the anchor for A Gringo At My Baby instead.

5.11aSport 130m, 13
4 A Gringo Ate My Baby

Very nice route, first bolt runout.

FA: Dane Bass, Matt Grecco

5.8Sport 30m, 8
5 * DNA-DRD-2 / DNA

Five feet right of A Gringo Ate My Baby. Long runout from last bolt to anchors.

FA: Matt Greco & Dane Bass - 2005

5.10Sport 30m, 7
6 Nasty Screwdriver / Dirty Screwdriver

FA: Dane Bass

5.8Sport 30m, 7
7 Cat Daddy

Listed as 5.9+ in the (Ed's) book, the route setter (Dane Bass) calls it an honest 5.8.

(Dane's book lists it as 5.9) The name of the route is written with red ink (hard to find).

FA: Dain Bass; Dane Bass & Sue Kligerman

5.9Sport 30m, 12
8 The Cat's Meow

FA: Sue Kligerman, Dane Bass - 2003

5.8Sport 30m, 14
9 Skairdy Kat

FA: Richard Ross

5.8Sport 29m, 8
10 * Penitente

Its a very nice and easy roof with huge holds, easy to read.

FA: Nathalie Challulau - 2002

5.10bSport 24m, 7
11 ** Catwalk

Excellent route with nice holds!

FA: Mario Torres

5.10cSport 24m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Spin Doctor

FA: Dane Bass

5.9Sport 23m, 7
13 ** 31 Foot Smurf 5.10aSport 30m, 10

1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall 27 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.477618, 25.950253

Description:

Light grey wall with some interesting vertical to overhanging dihedrals, it has a good variety of quality routes.

Approach:

Walk farther up the canyon -- generally along the wall from the "Cat Wall".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Immaculate Conception 5.11bSport 55m, 7
2 50/50 5.10aSport 32m, 10
3 Los Tocayos 5.9 XTrad 91m
4 Charity 5.10aSport 46m, 8
5 Monarca 5.10cSport 46m, 10
6 ** The Shroud

(I think this was originally a 2-pitch route, later extended to 4 pitches.)

5.12bSport 130m, 10
7 Tanga en T 5.12bSport 37m, 10
8 * Cabeza de Chivo

70m rope recommended

5.12a RSport 44m, 11
9 The Plague

Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb Cabeza or Selam to access.

5.12bSport 40m, 10
10 Bakai

Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb Cabeza or Selam to access.

5.12aSport 30m, 13
11 Selam

70m rope recommended

5.10aSport 43m, 12
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 ** Flying Scorpion

FA: Dane Bass

5.10Sport 27m, 8
13 Bad Cop, No Donut

FA: Rick Ross & Dane Bass

5.11bSport 24m, 8
14 Silverfish 5.11cSport 34m, 8
15 Tilting at Windmills 5.11cSport
16 Sancho Panza 5.11aSport 27m
17 Part Time Amateur

Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall".

5.11Sport 27m, 8
18 Full Time Amateur

Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall".

Dane says, "open project", Ed says, "unfinished, keep off".

Sport Project 27m, 9
19 ** Don Quixote 5.11dSport 24m, 8
20 ** El Balota 5.12aSport 26m, 10
21 Mexico in Flames 5.12aSport 58m, 8
22 Mugre Mugre 5.10dSport 29m, 7
23 Mugre

Start on "Mugre Mugre", step right at the flake, then up to new anchor.

5.10cSport
24 Trouble at the Border 5.10dSport 18m
25 Resurrection 5.10cSport 23m, 6
26 A Fistful of Pesos

Another retro-bolted trad route.

5.9Sport 26m, 6
27 For a Few Pesos More 5.7Trad 26m

1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.478137, 25.950505

Description:

These routes start at the highest place that the steps meet the south wall of the canyon. A few of them start from the landing, but most start from a 3rd-class ledge that angles up and leftwards, above the "Lower Virgin Wall".

There should be a cable to protect the high end of the ramp.

Approach:

Climb the stairs to the top landing, then up and leftwards along the ledge, as needed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Passion

The belay station is up high on the wall next to a little tree, get there by hiking the 3rd class ramp of by climbing El Balota, Mexico on Flames or Mugre Mugre. Make sure to take a daisy chain with you for belaying.

5.12bSport 27m, 9
2 Pentathlon 5.10dSport
3 (2nd pitch of Mexico in Flames)

This is the 2nd pitch of the 2 pitch climb "Mexico in Flames" that starts on the "Lower Virgin Wall". Info here for route-finding ease.

5.11aSport
4 Caguaman 5.11dSport 26m, 11
5 (2nd pitch of Resurrection)

Again, 2nd pitch of a lower climb.

Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Milk Cow Blues 5.10cSport 26m, 10
7 Faded Love

Shares anchor with "Milk Cow Blues".

5.11dSport 26m, 11
8 San Antonio Rose 5.10bSport 30m, 11
9 Chilifluris Way 5.10aSport 30m, 11
10 Mr Gilberto 5.10cSport 34m, 13
11 Mr Jesus 5.10bSport 29m, 8
12 Mr Patacca 5.9Sport 29m, 9
13 Chicaboom Nights 5.9Sport 27m, 5
14 * Gracias Mi Amor 5.8Sport 34m, 7

1.19.5. The Flamingo Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This is the north facing wall, above the virgin wall -- the routes start about 275ft above the canyon.

The first route ("The Flamingo Wall") is before the cave, the others are after.

Approach:

Continue up canyon beyond the stairs, generally staying close to the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Flamingo Wall

Bolts that are just to the left of where you pass through a small cave to continue up canyon.

First two pitches are easy slab, third pitch is long (112ft) up thin face.

5.11bSport 88m, 16
2 The Flamingo Wall - first two pitches

The first two pitches make a nice 2-pitch relaxed 5.8 climb.

5.8Sport 55m
3 Barkin' for Martin

Ed (FA) say 5.10b. Dane says 5.9.

5.10aSport 24m, 7
4 El Abuelito de Yaveh

Ed (FA) say 5.10b/c, Dane say 5.9.

5.10aSport 24m, 8
5 El Mariachi 5.8Sport 24m, 7

1.19.6. The Ripped Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This wall looks like some big animal ripped claws down the wall.

Approach:

Keep hiking up the north wall of the canyon from the top of the stairs at "Upper Virgin Wall" past the cave at "The Flamingo Wall".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Strokin' the Bishop 5.11cSport 75m, 12
2 * Lopin the Mule

Same first pitch as "Strokin' the Bishop".

5.11cSport 91m, 15
3 El Sendero del Vagabundo

Climb the (shared with next three climbs) easy access pitch, go all the way to the left end of the ramp, then up.

5.12bSport
4 * Ripped Wall

Climb shared easy access pitch (5.8), then on ledge traverse 25ft left before heading up.

5.12aSport 91m, 8
5 * Biaji's Boulevard

After climbing easy access pitch, trend immediately up and left to the first bolt.

5.11cSport 64m, 5
6 Team Ryobi

Climb easy access pitch (do I sound like I'm repeating myself?), then climb face at right end of ramp. (Scary runout to anchors.)

5.11bSport
7 Animal Party

Few bolts per pitch, home-made funky hangars. R-rated.

5.11dSport 120m, 7

1.19.7. Beyond the Ripped 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This wall is at the top end of the Virgin Canyon.

Approach:

Walk up the stairs to the Upper Virgin wall, then up along the wall past the Flamingo and Ripped walls, then on upwards for another 600ft or so to the top of the canyon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Punto de Inspiracion / Inspiration Point 5.10bSport 91m, 12

1.19.8. Second Plancha Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This is the upper developed wall on the south side of the canyon -- it is a slightly overhanging brown wall with a palm tree on top, above (to the left of) the overlook that is the end of the stairs.

All the climbs start from a single point, then reach a ledge/ramp system -- from there 2 left, 1 up, 3 right.

Approach:

Hike up the stairs until the overlook, then scramble up the 3rd class gully close to the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Country Fuck

Climb up easy ramp to left-most bolt line.

5.11Sport 24m, 5
2 Lybian Sibyl 5.12aSport 26m, 7
3 Wicked Sister

Follows cold shuts up the center of the wall.

5.13bSport 26m, 9
4 The Gnostic 5.13cSport 26m, 9
5 The Butcher Block 5.12cSport
6 Hair Shirt 5.12dSport 26m, 9

1.19.9. Suicide Overlook 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

This is the lookout over the pools below where the stairs up the canyon dead-end.

Approach:

Climb the stairs until they end.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Scariest Ride in the Park

Climbs the ridge on the left side of the overlook all the way up to the summit of El Toro.

Descent: Traverse the top and rappel "Time Wave Zero" or walk off the hiking trail to the south and east.

5.9 XTrad 1500m
2 Booby Trapped

Starts 40ft up the gully to the left of the overlook.

5.11aSport 23m, 7

1.19.10. First Plancha Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The brown (vaguely triangular) wall to the right of and down from the overlook.

Approach:

Climb the stairs to the overlook, then climb over the fence on the right and down to the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cat in a Can 5.11bSport 18m, 5
2 La Vida Gatos 5.12bSport 18m, 6
3 Mi Vida Loca 5.11cSport 18m, 7
4 Hootenanny 5.11cSport 17m, 8
5 Lazarus 5.12bSport 17m, 8
6 Dain Bramage

Start in the chimney right of the Plancha, climb up it, onto and along the ridge, then down to the Lookout.

A good introduction to the terrain found in the longer ridge routes such as "The Scariest Ride in the Park" and "Monster Truck".

5.6 XTrad 91m

1.20. Wonder Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.477151, 25.950407

Description:

This is the wall across the back of the picnic area above the pools, with BBQs along its base. It is the first wall along to the right along the front-side of the Potrero.

Be very careful on this wall, especially on the upper pitches of any mulit-pitch routes, when the pools and picnic/BBQ area is busy. Any rock fall could hurt locals, including children, who will not be looking for or expecting rock fall. (In fact, it is probably best to not climb anything multi-pitch on this wall if the pools and picnicing is at all busy.)

Approach:

Walk up past the pools and BBQs to the obvious wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kiddie Korner

Two top-rope anchors used for introducing local kids to climbing.

Top rope 9m
2 Mr. Hanky

Best 5.8 in Potrero.

(Don't mistake the "Kiddie Korner" anchor just to the left as you climb for anything that is yours.)

FA: Dane Bass

5.8Sport 27m, 8
3 Asombrame

Climb the thin crack just right of "Mr. Hanky", and shares anchor with it.

5.10aSport 27m
4 Monkey Bizness

Super Sweet 5.10a

Climb the obvious crack and then over the bulge at the top.

FA: Dane Bass

5.10aSport 29m, 9
5 Monkey Booty

Climb the crack on "Monkey Bizness", but angle rightwards to finish on "Halfway to Booty" rather than finishing up over the bulge.

5.9Sport 27m
6 *** Half Way to Booty

FA: Dane Bass and Ralph Vega

5.10cSport 26m, 12
7 ** The Great Baldini

FA: Dane Bass and Rick Ross

5.10bSport 27m
8 * Red Headed Step Child

FA: Ralph Vega and Prentess Berry

5.10Sport 26m
9 Mexican Squeeze Job 5.10aSport 27m, 12
10 *** Kooter on Skooters

Stay out of black streak for 10d grade.

FA: Dane Bass and Rick Ross

5.10dSport 27m, 13
11 One Dead Teardrop

FA: Dane Bass and Rick Ross

5.9Sport 30m, 10
12 Ramsey's Shenanigans

At 2nd belay (shared with "Evil Shenanigans"), move left a few feet for the 3rd pitch. (Straight up from the belay is the 3rd pitch of "Evil Shenanigans" -- which goes at a lot harder than 5.9.)

5.9Sport 73m
13 Ramsays pitch 1 5.9Sport 25m
14 Evil Shenanigans

Great 3 Pitch climb on far right of the wall.

This runs very close to "Ramsey's Shenanigans"; don't wander onto it, if you want full value for the 2nd (11b) and 3rd (10c) pitches.

FA: Dane Bass and Rick Ross

5.11bSport 73m, 11

1.21. Front Side 52 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles
Description:

This is the beautiful main wall that you see from the campgrounds, right of the narrow opening into the Potrero proper. The tallest peak, approximately in the centre, is "El Toro".

As you look at it, the leftmost silhouetted ridge is the route of "Monster Truck". Closer than this, and running lower than it for most of the climb is a 2nd ridge that goes up to the central (El Toro) peak -- that is "The Scariest Ride in the Park".

Approach:

Varies from sector to sector.

1.21.1. El Mirador 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This is the north-facing side of the "Second Plancha Wall" in the Virgin Canyon -- it is up and right from the "Wonder Wall".

Approach:

Walk up through the pools to the "Wonder Wall" then from the right end of this wall, hike up into the scree towards the obvious pillar (Yogi's Pillar).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Access Denied

Death

Climb the long obvious dihedral system up to the ridge.

5.10cSport 100m
2 Face the Music

About 30ft right of "Access Denied".

5.11cSport 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Yogi Unchained

Start in the left corner of the pillar and climb the chimney to the top of the piller, then move to the face and up. (3rd pitch is long, with intermediate anchor for the rappel.)

5.10bSport 11
4 Yogi Unchained, first 3 pitches

The first 3 pitches make a fun 3-pitch 5.9 route.

5.9Sport
5 Libertad

Climb Yogi's Pillar on the front left corner.

(Ed lists it as 5.7, 5.7 -- but nothing on the first pitch approaches 5.7, and the 2nd pitch seems soft at its grade, too.)

5.7Sport
6 Yogi Goes to Mexico

Climb Yogi's Pillar on the right side.

5.10aSport 12
7 When the Cat's Away the Rats Will Play

Climbs right of the pillar all the way to the top of the wall. (2nd pitch is long and has an intermediate anchor for rappel.)

5.10dSport
8 El Tiucuache

TR the left side of the wall from the anchors of "Coatimundi".

5.10aTop rope
9 Coatimundi

This climb is on a small wall about 250 yards right of Yogi's Pillar.

5.8Sport

1.21.2. Skytop Buttress 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A buttress farther right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sky Top Buttress

(Provides access to the "Smurf Bowl".)

5.9Sport

1.21.3. The Smurf Bowl 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A small orange cave just visible above the swimming pools.

Approach:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * No Name

Left-most route, just outside the cave.

5.11aSport 30m, 6
2 Merlin's Route 5.11dSport 30m, 8
3 Chupacabras 5.13bSport 29m, 8
4 Styrofoam Dreams 5.12aSport 29m, 8

1.21.4. Zapatista Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This is the wall located up behind "El Bobo". It is up and left of the ridge that runs from El Toro down towards "El Bobo".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Excalibur

Continue past "Satori" for another 150 yards or so.

5.10cSport 12
2 *** Satori 5.10cSport 210m, 11
3 ** 3 Stone Place

2 ropes recommended.

5.11dSport 230m, 20
4 Zapatista

Long approach, but good climbing. Need 2 ropes.

5.12bSport 150m

1.21.5. Nautilus Buttress 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The Vegetated Buttress left of the "Land of the Free" wall.

The trails to this buttress, and the routes, are hard to find as it is not often climbed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nautilus

30ft left of "Camino de Oro" follow a trail left (sometimes hard to see) until it hits the wall again. Shares last bolts with "Camino de Oro".

5.10aSport 49m, 13
2 Camino de Oro

2 ropes recommended.

5.10aSport 49m, 9

1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This is the gray & white overhanging wall near the center of the front side. If you spot the skull (El Diablo), this is the wall that runs up into the skull. (In fact the 10-pitch "Land of the Free" runs up through the right eye socket.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Underdog

Starts above the old mine shaft.

5.10+ RSport 35m, 8
2 * Sesame Street Tufa 5.11dSport 30m, 9
3 Natural Mystic 5.11dSport 30m, 9
4 Land of the Free 5.12bSport 340m, 15
5 * Freedom Fries 5.12cSport 34m, 9
6 ** The M.O.A.B. 5.12bSport 30m, 9
7 Tomahawk Democracy 5.12cSport 30m, 7
8 Love Handles 5.12-Sport 37m, 8
9 ** Fort Freedom 5.13bSport 30m, 8
10 *** Axis of Evil 5.12dSport 37m, 9
11 Apache Line / Apache Way 5.11+Sport 37m, 14

1.21.7. Central Pillar 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wheel of Time

Climbs thin face to large ledge half way up. Tends to have run-outs. 2 x 60m ropes recommended.

5.12bSport 210m, 12
2 *** El Sendero Luminoso / The Shining Path

Climbs the cleanest, blankest, rock up the center of the central pillar.

5.12+Sport 530m, 15
3 * Mona Luna 5.9Sport 61m, 7
4 Vida Preciosa

At the end of the 2nd pitch, follow the left bolt line.

5.11aSport 100m, 10
5 Circulo de Amigos

Climb the first two pitches of "Vida Preciosa", then from the top of the 2nd pitch follow the right bolt line.

5.11dSport 140m, 9
6 Paguvi

18 pitches, up to 5.10d. Originally done on gear, retro-bolted in 1999. Retro-bolting still leaves many runouts, and there is, also, lots of loose rock to keep the sense of adventure alive.

5.10d RSport 610m, 15

1.21.8. Plutonia 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Boulder
Description:

A small cave at the base of the central pillar, this is primarily a bouldering area, but has one bolted route.

Bring headlamps.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flavor Flave 5.13bSport
2 Motor V4Boulder 9m
3 Love Handle V3Boulder 6m
4 The Half World V3Boulder 6m
5 KS Variation V4Boulder
6 Plutonia V8Boulder 8m
7 Tufa Loco V6Boulder 6m
8 Sharma Problem V10Boulder 12m
9 El Seis V6Boulder
10 Shanti V2Boulder 18m
11 Un Paso Abajo V8Boulder
12 Devil's Crack V2Boulder
13 La Sombra Del Viento

Starts about 150 feet past the cave. Pitch 3 has two variations, 5.10d to the right, and 5.12+ to the left.

5.11cSport 14

1.21.9. PaGuVi Gully 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Las Auras

Unrepeated since first ascent due to huge amounts of loose rock. Several parties have been injured or backed off on this.

5.10 XTrad 670m
2 Dos Cabrones y sus Cinturones

(2nd pitch started, but not finished as of 2012.)

5.10Sport 26m, 9

1.22. Tarahumara Pass 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A saddle in the rock west (right when facing the Potrero) of "Buzz Rock".

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Breakfast Club Peak

Climbs the large free-standing peak. There is a steep 4th-class approach pitch, too.

5.10bSport
2 * Border Dog

Shares top belay with "Dos Mundos".

5.11cSport 50m
3 Dos Mundos

Shares top anchor with "Border Dog".

5.12aSport 50m

1.23. Buzz Rock 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Buzz Rock is the small, dome-shaped outcrop located north of El Toro.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gracie's Bosch 5.8Sport 27m, 10
2 Zooze 5.9Sport 61m, 12
3 The Fez

Jug haul.

5.10Sport 70m, 6
4 Dig Hay Zoose

More jugs.

5.9Sport 24m, 6
5 Graphite and Glitter 5.8Sport 24m, 6
6 Babylon Sister 5.9Sport 24m, 6
7 Green Flower Street 5.7Sport 23m, 6

1.24. El Bobo 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -100.479217, 25.952573

Description:

This is the seperate "dunce cap" shaped spire in front of the Potrero proper, on the right side of the road.

Not many routes, not very good rock, and a longish approach leave this not being climbed very often.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bonum de Carnival

This climb starts where the trail meets the rock. Tends to be runout.

5.10dSport 50m
2 Dance of the Dunces

Twenty feet right of "Bonum de Carnival". Also tends to be runout.

5.11Sport 43m, 10
3 Bobo Trad Nine / Old Trad Line

Climbs the east (closest to the road) ridge of El Bobo. Nasty bushwhack to the base making the climb hard to find. 4 new bolts have been added on the start, but rest is gear.

5.9Mixed 73m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.5 The Kyber Pass Sport 37m, 3 1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion
Tamarindo Trad 30m 1.17. The Jungle Wall
5.6 Razorblade Ridge Trad 300m 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Dain Bramage Trad 91m 1.19.10. First Plancha Wall
5.7 El Cachorro Sport 26m 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Palm Sex, LIes and Lots of Tape Sport 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
The Anvil Sport 12 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Uphill Route Trad 61m 1.12.2. South Side
* Slip of the Tongue Sport 26m, 6 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
For a Few Pesos More Trad 26m 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Libertad Sport 1.21.1. El Mirador
Green Flower Street Sport 23m, 6 1.23. Buzz Rock
5.8 Control Machete Sport 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Shebashite Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Mojo (Nixo) Sport 44m 1.3.2. Mojo Slabs
Tami's Pillar Sport 26m 1.4.3. South Wall
Exsqueeze Me Sport 24m, 7 1.5. Mini Super
Hey Buddy, You Gonna Eat That? Sport 26m 1.5. Mini Super
Honor Among Thieves Sport 27m 1.5. Mini Super
* Run For The Border Sport 23m, 10 1.5. Mini Super
SeisSeisOcho Sport 15m, 4 1.5. Mini Super
Duck and Cover Sport 30m 1.6. TNT Wall
Espantasuegra Sport 26m 1.9. The Wave
Going to Maui Sport 1.9. The Wave
Abuelito Dime Tu Sport 26m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
I Believe I Can Fly Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
CDC & J Sport 34m, 8 1.17. The Jungle Wall
The Grafiti Route Sport 27m, 5 1.17. The Jungle Wall
* Fupa Sport 26m, 6 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Something Old, Something New Sport 24m 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Upside Down Cracker Sport 35m, 9 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
* Doof Crack Sport 27m, 5 1.19.1. Surf Board
A Gringo Ate My Baby Sport 30m, 8 1.19.2. Cat Wall
Nasty Screwdriver Sport 30m, 7 1.19.2. Cat Wall
Skairdy Kat Sport 29m, 8 1.19.2. Cat Wall
The Cat's Meow Sport 30m, 14 1.19.2. Cat Wall
* Gracias Mi Amor Sport 34m, 7 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
El Mariachi Sport 24m, 7 1.19.5. The Flamingo Wall
The Flamingo Wall - first two pitches Sport 55m 1.19.5. The Flamingo Wall
Mr. Hanky Sport 27m, 8 1.20. Wonder Wall
Coatimundi Sport 1.21.1. El Mirador
Gracie's Bosch Sport 27m, 10 1.23. Buzz Rock
Graphite and Glitter Sport 24m, 6 1.23. Buzz Rock
5.9 Cellulite Sport 23m, 8 1.1.1. Blubber Wall
Fun Fat Sport 23m, 5 1.1.1. Blubber Wall
Howlin' Wolf Sport 34m 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Rosey Palm and the Five Sisters Sport 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Senor Natural Sport 45m 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
The Blacksmith Sport 12 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Whistle and Fish Sport 25m 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Zombie Wolf Sport 43m, 10 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Little Ewarwoowar Sport 24m, 5 1.3.2. Mojo Slabs
Monte Blanca Trad 340m 1.3.2. Mojo Slabs
UFOs, Big Rigs and Burritos Sport 220m, 10 1.3.2. Mojo Slabs
Cartel Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Estrellita pitch 1 Sport 20m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Mr Fluffers wild ride Sport 40m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Die Heed Rail Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Earth, Moon, Planets Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Chicharrones Sport 1.5. Mini Super
** El Volvo Scorcho Sport 24m, 10 1.5. Mini Super
Left-over Man Sport 26m 1.5. Mini Super
Pimpanada Sport 27m, 7 1.5. Mini Super
Super Maxi Express Guey Sport 1.5. Mini Super
Bogus Journey Sport 60m 1.6. TNT Wall
Ruta 66 Sport 1.6. TNT Wall
El Pirata Sport 42m 1.8. The Conundrums
Sandra Trad 370m 1.8. The Conundrums
Caguama Queen Sport 28m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Emilio's Posse Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Mystery Niner Sport 26m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Rusty's Crack Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* Sleepwalkin Sport 26m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Ulf Route Trad 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Crack Test Dummies Sport 75m 1.12.1. North Side
Downhill Route Trad 75m 1.12.2. South Side
*** Dead Man Walking Sport 40m, 16 1.13. The Dihedrals
* Osito Sport 23m 1.13. The Dihedrals
Remember the Alamo Sport 1.13. The Dihedrals
* Jungle Boy Sport 55m 1.17. The Jungle Wall
Las Chimuelas Sport 90m 1.17. The Jungle Wall
Maria la Sabrosa Sport 34m 1.17. The Jungle Wall
CatManDo Sport 29m, 15 1.17.1. The Cat House
Bling Bling Sport 37m, 8 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
* Blood Meridian Sport 26m, 6 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Joe's Garage Unknown 50m, 11 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Monster Truck Trad 1800m 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Sabrosa Sport 21m, 7 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Cat Daddy Sport 30m, 12 1.19.2. Cat Wall
Spin Doctor Sport 23m, 7 1.19.2. Cat Wall
A Fistful of Pesos Sport 26m, 6 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Los Tocayos Trad 91m 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Chicaboom Nights Sport 27m, 5 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
Mr Patacca Sport 29m, 9 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
The Scariest Ride in the Park Trad 1500m 1.19.9. Suicide Overlook
Monkey Booty Sport 27m 1.20. Wonder Wall
One Dead Teardrop Sport 30m, 10 1.20. Wonder Wall
Ramsays pitch 1 Sport 25m 1.20. Wonder Wall
Ramsey's Shenanigans Sport 73m 1.20. Wonder Wall
Yogi Unchained, first 3 pitches Sport 1.21.1. El Mirador
Sky Top Buttress Sport 1.21.2. Skytop Buttress
* Mona Luna Sport 61m, 7 1.21.7. Central Pillar
Babylon Sister Sport 24m, 6 1.23. Buzz Rock
Dig Hay Zoose Sport 24m, 6 1.23. Buzz Rock
Zooze Sport 61m, 12 1.23. Buzz Rock
Bobo Trad Nine Mixed 73m, 4 1.24. El Bobo
5.10a Blubber Boy Sport 23m, 8 1.1.1. Blubber Wall
Palms Away Sport 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Will the Wolf Survive? Sport 110m, 14 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Otis (Campbell) Sport 36m 1.3.2. Mojo Slabs
Jesus Amarillo Sport 30m, 9 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Sour Grapes Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
The Tombstone Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Three Border Phatties Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Baad Monkey Sport 40m, 8 1.5. Mini Super
* Mas Panza Que Pelo Sport 27m 1.5. Mini Super
TNT Route Sport 1.6. TNT Wall
Sin Soul Sport 30m 1.8. The Conundrums
The New Ape Man Sport 60m 1.8. The Conundrums
* This Dog's Life Sport 28m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Incredible Hand Crack of the Potrero Sport 27m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
** Aguja Celo Rey Sport 67m 1.12.1. North Side
Jungle Fever Sport 61m, 12 1.17. The Jungle Wall
* Jungle Mountaineering Sport 120m 1.17. The Jungle Wall
* Shake Hands with Shorty Sport 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
FnF Bomb Sport 29m, 8 1.19.1. Surf Board
** 31 Foot Smurf Sport 30m, 10 1.19.2. Cat Wall
50/50 Sport 32m, 10 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Charity Sport 46m, 8 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Selam Sport 43m, 12 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Chilifluris Way Sport 30m, 11 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
Barkin' for Martin Sport 24m, 7 1.19.5. The Flamingo Wall
El Abuelito de Yaveh Sport 24m, 8 1.19.5. The Flamingo Wall
Asombrame Sport 27m 1.20. Wonder Wall
Mexican Squeeze Job Sport 27m, 12 1.20. Wonder Wall
Monkey Bizness Sport 29m, 9 1.20. Wonder Wall
El Tiucuache Top rope 1.21.1. El Mirador
Yogi Goes to Mexico Sport 12 1.21.1. El Mirador
Camino de Oro Sport 49m, 9 1.21.5. Nautilus Buttress
Nautilus Sport 49m, 13 1.21.5. Nautilus Buttress
5.10b The Golden Werewolf Sport 23m, 10 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Same Same But Different Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
*** Estrellita (5.10b Variation) Sport 340m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Pink Harmonica Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
** Cerveza Sport 26m 1.5. Mini Super
** Coca Cola Sport 26m 1.5. Mini Super
Matacumba Sport 27m, 9 1.5. Mini Super
La Ola Sport 33m 1.9. The Wave
All Fun and Games Sport 27m, 12 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Cactus Dancing Sport 26m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* Cactus Pile Sport 94m, 10 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
*** Dope Ninja Sport 180m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Kelso's Way Sport 37m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* Tlaloc Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Off the Notch Sport 24m, 6 1.12.1. North Side
La Primera Vez Sport 76m, 12 1.16. The Outrage Wall
** Yankee Clipper Sport 460m, 12 1.17. The Jungle Wall
Mr P. Mosh Sport 26m, 8 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
** The Popsicle Kings Sport 23m, 6 1.19.1. Surf Board
* Penitente Sport 24m, 7 1.19.2. Cat Wall
Mr Jesus Sport 29m, 8 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
San Antonio Rose Sport 30m, 11 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
Punto de Inspiracion Sport 91m, 12 1.19.7. Beyond the Ripped
** The Great Baldini Sport 27m 1.20. Wonder Wall
Yogi Unchained Sport 11 1.21.1. El Mirador
Breakfast Club Peak Sport 1.22. Tarahumara Pass
5.10c Never Cry Wolf Sport 50m, 9 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Palm Snake Sport 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
Pepe y Lupe Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Take Me to Your Marklar Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Indus Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Wright of Passage Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Technical Dooficulty Sport 1.4.4. Plum Wall
* Chili Dog Sport 26m 1.5. Mini Super
* Empanada Sport 26m 1.5. Mini Super
Lamb Nuts Sport 27m, 7 1.5. Mini Super
Baked Fresh Daily Sport 26m 1.6. TNT Wall
Argos Sport 50m 1.8. The Conundrums
La Baca-Chenta Sport 35m, 12 1.9. The Wave
Agujero Del Espacio Sport 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Double Cherry Pie Sport 53m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Feral-Dover Ridge Trad 760m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
** Motarola Sport 26m, 9 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
*** Pancho Villa Rides Again Sport 160m, 14 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Paz Para Vlequez Sport 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
** Treasure of the Sierra Madre Sport 230m, 12 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Sunnyside Up Sport 69m, 15 1.12.2. South Side
Hot Rock Global Challenge Sport 21m, 7 1.17. The Jungle Wall
Bazookaed in Monterrey Sport 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Bubba Loui Sport 49m, 8 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
** Catwalk Sport 24m, 7 1.19.2. Cat Wall
Monarca Sport 46m, 10 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Mugre Sport 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Resurrection Sport 23m, 6 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
* Milk Cow Blues Sport 26m, 10 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
Mr Gilberto Sport 34m, 13 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
*** Half Way to Booty Sport 26m, 12 1.20. Wonder Wall
Access Denied Sport 100m 1.21.1. El Mirador
Excalibur Sport 12 1.21.4. Zapatista Wall
*** Satori Sport 210m, 11 1.21.4. Zapatista Wall
5.10 Emiliano Zapata Sport 1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion
Man-boy Joins the Revolution Sport 1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion
Jungle Boogie Trad 340m 1.3.2. Mojo Slabs
Andromeda Trad 120m 1.4.3. South Wall
L.A.R.R. Trad 67m 1.4.3. South Wall
La Puerta Trad 1.7. The Vatican
Mexican Radio Trad 180m 1.8. The Conundrums
* DNA-DRD-2 Sport 30m, 7 1.19.2. Cat Wall
Putas de Fuego Sport 30m, 10 1.19.2. Cat Wall
** Flying Scorpion Sport 27m, 8 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
* Red Headed Step Child Sport 26m 1.20. Wonder Wall
Dos Cabrones y sus Cinturones Sport 26m, 9 1.21.9. PaGuVi Gully
Las Auras Trad 670m 1.21.9. PaGuVi Gully
The Fez Sport 70m, 6 1.23. Buzz Rock
5.10d Senor Pascual Sport 1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion
Scavenger Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Kung Pao Pupert Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
La Pantera Rosa Sport 30m, 7 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Lickety Split Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Marklar Sport 30m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Gusada Negra Sport 27m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
** Super Nova (10d variation) Sport 250m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
How the Chorizo is Made Sport 1.4.4. Plum Wall
Rey de Enfierno Sport 27m 1.5. Mini Super
Agua de Coco Sport 110m, 15 1.6. TNT Wall
Band of Brothers Sport 1.6. TNT Wall
The Rattler Sport 90m 1.8. The Conundrums
Surfin' The Wave Sport 40m, 11 1.9. The Wave
Diez Algo Sport 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Double Trouble Sport 10 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
*** Frenesi Sport 26m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
** Motavision Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Pins and Needles Sport 28m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
*** Snott Girlz Sport 180m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
** Team Hilti Sport 33m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Getting Wood Sport 70m 1.12.1. North Side
Jungle Honey Sport 26m, 11 1.12.1. North Side
Easy Over Sport 12 1.12.2. South Side
Through the Looking Glass Sport 56m 1.12.2. South Side
The Texas Tumble Sport 46m 1.13. The Dihedrals
*** Black Cat Bone Sport 270m, 14 1.17. The Jungle Wall
Robin Hood Trad 760m 1.17. The Jungle Wall
*** Space Boyz Sport 300m, 12 1.17. The Jungle Wall
Stairway to Nowhere Mixed 120m, 10 1.17. The Jungle Wall
Voodoo Trance Sport 180m, 12 1.17. The Jungle Wall
Pussy Galore Sport 30m, 9 1.17.1. The Cat House
Golden Puff Sport 30m, 7 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
** Quick Draw McGraw Sport 61m, 10 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Mugre Mugre Sport 29m, 7 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Trouble at the Border Sport 18m 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Pentathlon Sport 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
*** Kooter on Skooters Sport 27m, 13 1.20. Wonder Wall
When the Cat's Away the Rats Will Play Sport 1.21.1. El Mirador
Paguvi Sport 610m, 15 1.21.7. Central Pillar
Bonum de Carnival Sport 50m 1.24. El Bobo
5.10+ Cresent Moon Sport 27m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Underdog Sport 35m, 8 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
5.11- Planet Marklar Sport 30m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
La Primavera Trad 100m 1.8. The Conundrums
V2 Devil's Crack Boulder 1.21.8. Plutonia
Shanti Boulder 18m 1.21.8. Plutonia
5.11a * Viva La Revolucion Sport 1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion
Blade Runner Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Boltergeist Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Machismo Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Rat Bastard Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Send It Pink Pocket Express Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
** Super Nova Sport 240m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Hand Crack Trad 1.4.3. South Wall
Paparazzi Arete Sport 1.4.4. Plum Wall
Que Paso Payaso Sport 1.4.4. Plum Wall
Chicklets Sport 17m, 4 1.5. Mini Super
Buena Onda Sport 1.7. The Vatican
** The Raven Sport 90m 1.8. The Conundrums
** El Grifo Sport 33m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Juggalo Sport 27m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
*** Leap Of Faith Sport 90m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* Monkey Boy Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
** Motavation Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
*** Two Pump Chump Sport 61m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Pipi Pocket Sport 21m 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
Old Cold Shuts Sport 24m, 7 1.11.4. The Pride Buttress
CCR (Canadian Chicks Rule) Sport 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Chutes and Ladders Sport 91m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Achtung Rheinstein Arete Sport 29m, 9 1.12.1. North Side
UberMachismo Sport 67m, 10 1.12.1. North Side
All Cracked Up and No Place to Go Sport 30m, 9 1.13. The Dihedrals
Monica Lewinsky's Crack Sport 30m, 11 1.13. The Dihedrals
*** Despachadora de Gomitas Sport 1.16. The Outrage Wall
*** No Excuses Unknown 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Bury Me Standing Sport 55m, 8 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Canadian Route Sport 55m 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Central Scrutinizer Sport 50m 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Full Throttle Sport 29m, 9 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Mecasuit Sport 52m, 13 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
** Blind Faith Sport 130m, 13 1.19.2. Cat Wall
Sancho Panza Sport 27m 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
(2nd pitch of Mexico in Flames) Sport 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
Booby Trapped Sport 23m, 7 1.19.9. Suicide Overlook
* No Name Sport 30m, 6 1.21.3. The Smurf Bowl
Vida Preciosa Sport 100m, 10 1.21.7. Central Pillar
5.11b Cold Woman Warm Tufa Sport 9m, 5 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Fish and Clips Sport 91m, 12 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
3 R System Sport 30m, 11 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
*** Estrellita (5.11 variation) Sport 340m, 12 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Los Tres Chiflados Sport 27m, 7 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Marklar Man Sport 27m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Pacheco Poder Sport 29m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Babylon by Bus Sport 45m 1.4.3. South Wall
Pupert's Mind Trix Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Where's Rudy Sport 50m 1.4.3. South Wall
** La Presa Sport 29m, 8 1.5. Mini Super
No Habla Espanol Sport 95m, 14 1.6. TNT Wall
Tortilla Flat Sport 55m, 10 1.6. TNT Wall
Kotu Mondi Sport 120m 1.8. The Conundrums
** Cloud Nine Sport 100m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* Fat Boy Slim Sport 28m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
The Flaming Bearded Lady Sport 30m, 10 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Little Elvis Sport 27m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Dirty Dreams Sport 24m 1.12.1. North Side
* Jambo Bwano Sport 1.15. Time Wave Buttress
* Broken Heart Sport 50m, 14 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Habanero Sunday Sport 27m, 8 1.16. The Outrage Wall
New Bolts Sport 46m, 10 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Black Catillac Sport 30m, 12 1.17.1. The Cat House
** Gringo Disco Sport 50m, 14 1.18. The Central Scrutinizer
Bad Cop, No Donut Sport 24m, 8 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
* Immaculate Conception Sport 55m, 7 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
The Flamingo Wall Sport 88m, 16 1.19.5. The Flamingo Wall
Team Ryobi Sport 1.19.6. The Ripped Wall
Cat in a Can Sport 18m, 5 1.19.10. First Plancha Wall
Evil Shenanigans Sport 73m, 11 1.20. Wonder Wall
V3 Love Handle Boulder 6m 1.21.8. Plutonia
The Half World Boulder 6m 1.21.8. Plutonia
5.11c Salty Peanuts Sport 26m, 9 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Syberia Sport 21m, 6 1.2.2. Nomad Wall
Lobos Trabajando Sport 45m 1.2.4. Los Lobos South Wall
2 Dead Chipmunks and 1 Dead Beaver Sport 40m, 15 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
** Landscaping Sport 18m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
The Weiss Cracks Trad 300m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Chuffinator Sport 18m, 5 1.5. Mini Super
Drillin and Swillin Sport 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Onward Through The Fog Sport 29m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Red Helmet Sport 21m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Pink Panty Queen Sport 37m, 13 1.11.1. La Playa
Leisure Suit Sport 27m 1.11.4. The Pride Buttress
Aspire Sport 46m, 17 1.12.2. South Side
Crack-A-Mole Sport 67m, 14 1.13. The Dihedrals
*** El Sendero Diablo Sport 180m 1.16. The Outrage Wall
*** Eternal Fatalist Unknown 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Warifikis Sport 35m 1.17. The Jungle Wall
La Flakita Sport 27m, 10 1.19.2. Cat Wall
Silverfish Sport 34m, 8 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Tilting at Windmills Sport 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
* Biaji's Boulevard Sport 64m, 5 1.19.6. The Ripped Wall
* Lopin the Mule Sport 91m, 15 1.19.6. The Ripped Wall
* Strokin' the Bishop Sport 75m, 12 1.19.6. The Ripped Wall
Hootenanny Sport 17m, 8 1.19.10. First Plancha Wall
Mi Vida Loca Sport 18m, 7 1.19.10. First Plancha Wall
Face the Music Sport 11 1.21.1. El Mirador
La Sombra Del Viento Sport 14 1.21.8. Plutonia
* Border Dog Sport 50m 1.22. Tarahumara Pass
5.11 * Ninos Heroes Sport 1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion
Never on Friday Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Sketch Pad Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Shattered Trust Trad 91m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Bo Risa Sport 14m, 4 1.5. Mini Super
Permanent Vacation Sport 30m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Wyoming Route Unknown 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Love Removal Machine Sport 46m, 12 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Part Time Amateur Sport 27m, 8 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Country Fuck Sport 24m, 5 1.19.8. Second Plancha Wall
Dance of the Dunces Sport 43m, 10 1.24. El Bobo
5.11d Punch Boogie Sport 23m, 8 1.1.1. Blubber Wall
Good Kung Fu Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
The Invisible Seam Sport 27m 1.4.3. South Wall
** The Sword Sport 30m, 13 1.4.3. South Wall
Muffin Man Sport 29m, 11 1.5. Mini Super
La Pasada Sport 33m 1.9. The Wave
Beaver Heaver Sport 30m, 10 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* Stone Groovin' Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Devotion Sport 610m, 14 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
Army in Your Panties Sport 42m 1.11.4. The Pride Buttress
Twist of Fate Sport 41m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
*** Pangea Sport 24m, 6 1.12.2. South Side
Young Crankenstein Sport 34m, 16 1.12.2. South Side
* El Mono Dedo Sport 26m, 8 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Flim Flam Man Sport 40m, 12 1.16. The Outrage Wall
** XL Puff Sneaker Sport 21m, 6 1.19.1. Surf Board
** Don Quixote Sport 24m, 8 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Caguaman Sport 26m, 11 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
Faded Love Sport 26m, 11 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
Animal Party Sport 120m, 7 1.19.6. The Ripped Wall
Merlin's Route Sport 30m, 8 1.21.3. The Smurf Bowl
** 3 Stone Place Sport 230m, 20 1.21.4. Zapatista Wall
Natural Mystic Sport 30m, 9 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
* Sesame Street Tufa Sport 30m, 9 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
Circulo de Amigos Sport 140m, 9 1.21.7. Central Pillar
5.11+ The Atheist Sport 1.7. The Vatican
La Vaca Sport 55m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Pope on a Rope Sport 30m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Apache Line Sport 37m, 14 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
5.12- ** Malinche Sport 30m 1.8. The Conundrums
Hey Buddy Nice Cock Sport 91m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Petting Zoo Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Spies, Lies and Naked Thighs Sport 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Mother Superior Sport 30m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Shakti Sport 30m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Love Handles Sport 37m, 8 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
V4 KS Variation Boulder 1.21.8. Plutonia
Motor Boulder 9m 1.21.8. Plutonia
5.12a * Zuma Dawg Sport 46m, 19 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Curse of the Furry Beast Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Fully Engaged Sport 26m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
** Thunderkiss Sport 290m 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Ulack Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
*** Fear of Flyin' Sport 30m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Salty Dog Sport 30m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Telegram For Mongo Sport 23m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
*** The Devil's Tongue Sport 64m, 15 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
El Curandero Sport 26m 1.5. Mini Super
Inglorious Bastards Sport 1.6. TNT Wall
Gods Great Thingy Top rope 1.7. The Vatican
Jesus Cabellero Sport 1.7. The Vatican
St. Theresa in Extacy Sport 1.7. The Vatican
*** Bubble Boyz Sport 34m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
El Viajero del Tiempo Sport 50m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Eldorado Chuy Sport 61m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* Fear of a Curved Planet Sport 55m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
*** Fierce Invalids Sport 100m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* King Mota Sport 33m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Soul Slinger Sport 28m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
* Uncle Crusty Sport 30m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Just Sack-up and Send It Sport 13 1.11.3. New Sim City
El Cocui Sport 1.11.6. The High Life Wall
Handsome Mike's Modeling School Sport 1.12.1. North Side
Peek-a-Boo Jesus Sport 26m, 11 1.12.2. South Side
Bicho Borracho Sport 43m 1.13. The Dihedrals
Blue Fin Sport 30m, 12 1.14. The Surf Bowl
* Guppie Sport 29m, 8 1.14. The Surf Bowl
*** Time Wave Zero Sport 700m 1.15. Time Wave Buttress
A Fistful of Excuses Sport 30m, 10 1.16. The Outrage Wall
British Invasion Sport 1.16. The Outrage Wall
* Heartline Sport 46m, 14 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Hurdy Gurdy Man Sport 30m, 13 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Tax Day Sport 29m, 9 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Bakai Sport 30m, 13 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
* Cabeza de Chivo Sport 44m, 11 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
** El Balota Sport 26m, 10 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
Mexico in Flames Sport 58m, 8 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
* Ripped Wall Sport 91m, 8 1.19.6. The Ripped Wall
Lybian Sibyl Sport 26m, 7 1.19.8. Second Plancha Wall
Styrofoam Dreams Sport 29m, 8 1.21.3. The Smurf Bowl
Dos Mundos Sport 50m 1.22. Tarahumara Pass
5.12b ** Courage Sport 21m, 6 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
** Hole in the Universe Sport 21m, 5 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Rubbish Sport 26m, 6 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Genghis Khan Sport Project 64m, 9 1.2.2. Nomad Wall
Silk Road Sport 26m, 8 1.2.2. Nomad Wall
Team Hiltiless Sport 1.2.3. Culo del Lobo
Cumpleanos Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Conflict Sport 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Fornax Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Bone Factory Sport 35m, 10 1.5. Mini Super
The Pieta Sport 1.7. The Vatican
Usul Sport 56m 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
*** Mr. Big Sport 41m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Anti-Hero Sport 47m, 8 1.11.6. The High Life Wall
For a Few Excuses More Sport 35m, 14 1.16. The Outrage Wall
* Heart and Soul Sport 40m, 12 1.16. The Outrage Wall
* Fit For Life Sport 24m, 6 1.16.1. Bronco Bowls
Tanga en T Sport 37m, 10 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
The Plague Sport 40m, 10 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
** The Shroud Sport 130m, 10 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
The Passion Sport 27m, 9 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
El Sendero del Vagabundo Sport 1.19.6. The Ripped Wall
La Vida Gatos Sport 18m, 6 1.19.10. First Plancha Wall
Lazarus Sport 17m, 8 1.19.10. First Plancha Wall
Zapatista Sport 150m 1.21.4. Zapatista Wall
Land of the Free Sport 340m, 15 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
** The M.O.A.B. Sport 30m, 9 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
Wheel of Time Sport 210m, 12 1.21.7. Central Pillar
5.12c Beer Belly Sport 24m, 5 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Serendipity Sport 17m, 8 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Little Attila Sport 26m, 9 1.2.2. Nomad Wall
Flesh Bomb Sport 1.2.3. Culo del Lobo
Blazing Saddles Sport 30m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Club Mex Sport 21m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
The Worm Sport 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Tufa the Price of One Sport 41m, 14 1.9. The Wave
Slam Hound Sport 1.11.3. New Sim City
(Name Unknown) Sport 1.11.6. The High Life Wall
Addicted to the High Life Sport 1.11.6. The High Life Wall
Cumbia Sport 15m 1.13. The Dihedrals
The Butcher Block Sport 1.19.8. Second Plancha Wall
* Freedom Fries Sport 34m, 9 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
Tomahawk Democracy Sport 30m, 7 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
5.12c A0 Gilberto and His Donkey Sport 180m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
5.12 * Insurgentes Mexico Sport 1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion
Prima Donna Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Channelize your Hatred Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Cinco de Flyo Sport 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Tia Sport 1.4.3. South Wall
Aesop's Top rope 1.8. The Conundrums
The Hidalgo Stranger Sport 13 1.11.3. New Sim City
La Mano de Dios Sport 33m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
* Afro-Juan Sport 120m, 12 1.16. The Outrage Wall
*** Celestial Omnibus (bolted tufa left of the 2nd pitch of Steel Pulse) Sport 1.16.1. Bronco Bowls
V6 El Seis Boulder 1.21.8. Plutonia
Tufa Loco Boulder 6m 1.21.8. Plutonia
5.12d The Lizard and the Jihad Sport 1.2.1. Avenida de la Revolucion
Cosmic Intelligence Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Fin de Semana Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Maidito Lunes Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
23 Diablos Sport 43m, 19 1.4.1. Estrellas North Wall
Microcosm Sport 45m 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Golden Man Sport 36m 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
Usul Left Sport 56m 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
The Fall of Eve Sport 1.12.1. North Side
Gondwanaland Sport 50m, 14 1.12.2. South Side
Tool Sport 55m 1.12.2. South Side
Blucifer Sport 1.14. The Surf Bowl
*** Bottom Feeder Sport 27m, 7 1.14. The Surf Bowl
Job Restored Sport 43m, 14 1.16. The Outrage Wall
* Kung Fupert Sport 55m, 14 1.16. The Outrage Wall
*** Palm Sunday Sport 43m, 12 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Steel Pulse Sport 70m, 10 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Steel Pulse Sport 70m, 10 1.16.1. Bronco Bowls
Hair Shirt Sport 26m, 9 1.19.8. Second Plancha Wall
*** Axis of Evil Sport 37m, 9 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
5.12+ *** El Sendero Luminoso Sport 530m, 15 1.21.7. Central Pillar
5.13- Deep Shag Sport 67m, 10 1.11.4. The Pride Buttress
Weeping Jesus Sport 36m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
5.13a ** La Bola de Humo Sport 27m, 11 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Hombre de Rifle Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Mexican Guarantee Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Sabbath Sport 42m 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall Sport 38m, 12 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Soul Cages Sport 1.7. The Vatican
*** Cyclops Sport 30m 1.8. The Conundrums
The Luckiest Donkey Sport 100m, 10 1.10. Lower Sense of Religion
Repo Man Sport 41m, 6 1.11.1. La Playa
Rest Day Alla Pagoda Sport 180m, 14 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
Roman Holiday Sport 120m, 12 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
*** Surfer Rosa Sport 29m, 9 1.14. The Surf Bowl
** Devil's Cabana Boy Sport 150m, 15 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Job Disgraced Sport 43m, 12 1.16. The Outrage Wall
*** Mothership Connection Sport 73m, 14 1.16. The Outrage Wall
5.13b Cortando Piel Sport 20m, 7 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Repo Cage Sport 38m, 14 1.11.1. La Playa
The Riddler Sport 44m, 18 1.11.1. La Playa
Golden Cage Sport 35m 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
Jesse James Sport 56m 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
Pride Sport 110m 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
Taco Butter Sport 32m, 8 1.13. The Dihedrals
*** Nemo Sport 29m, 10 1.14. The Surf Bowl
Wicked Sister Sport 26m, 9 1.19.8. Second Plancha Wall
Chupacabras Sport 29m, 8 1.21.3. The Smurf Bowl
** Fort Freedom Sport 30m, 8 1.21.6. Land of the Free Wall
Flavor Flave Sport 1.21.8. Plutonia
V8 Plutonia Boulder 8m 1.21.8. Plutonia
Un Paso Abajo Boulder 1.21.8. Plutonia
5.13c Camino del Diablo Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Battle Royale Sport 230m 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
The Wrecking Ball Sport 35m 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave
Big Blue Sport 29m, 7 1.14. The Surf Bowl
Trepination Sport 70m, 16 1.16. The Outrage Wall
The Gnostic Sport 26m, 9 1.19.8. Second Plancha Wall
5.13 Pocket Socrates Sport 30m 1.8. The Conundrums
Rain of Gold Sport 40m 1.11.5. The Mileski Wall
*** Habanero/Time For Livin' Sport 180m, 4 1.16. The Outrage Wall
5.13d Amigo del Diablo Sport 1.3.1. Fin de Semana Wall
Slippery Down Under Sport 100m, 13 1.16. The Outrage Wall
V10 Sharma Problem Boulder 12m 1.21.8. Plutonia
? John Project Sport Project 65m, 6 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Project Manboy Sport Project 24m, 8 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Total Fitness Sport Project 27m, 10 1.1.2. Fitness Cave
Kublai Khan Sport Project 37m, 11 1.2.2. Nomad Wall
Xanadu Sport Project 27m, 10 1.2.2. Nomad Wall
Tales from the Dark Side Sport Project 120m, 12 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
The Golden Gizmo Sport Project 58m, 10 1.4.2. Club Mex Wall
Simple Sport Project 1.4.3. South Wall
The Penguin Sport Project 1.11.1. La Playa
Cryin Brian Sport 30m, 14 1.16. The Outrage Wall
*** esperandote Sport Project 60m, 14 1.16. The Outrage Wall
Full Time Amateur Sport Project 27m, 9 1.19.3. Lower Virgin Wall
(2nd pitch of Resurrection) Sport Project 1.19.4. Upper Virgin Wall
Kiddie Korner Top rope 9m 1.20. Wonder Wall
Project The Little Shop of Horrors Sport Project 1.11.2. The Pride Enclave