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Routes as sport in The Spires

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
North Side
5.9 Crack Test Dummies
1 5.7
2 5.9

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

Currently (Jan 2017) missing a hangar on one bolt in pitch 2, and requires trusting two old pitons as "bolts".

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is no double-bolt rappel back to the north side from the top, but there is a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood".

Sport 75m, 2
5.11a Achtung Rheinstein Arete

Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".

Sport 29m, 9
5.10d Getting Wood
1 5.10d
2 5.9

FA: Dane Bass & Curtis Mai

Sport 70m, 2
5.12a Handsome Mike's Modeling School
Sport
5.10a Aguja Cielo Rey
1 5.10 40m
2 5.10 20m

Starts on the slab right of the palm tree and goes up right to the first anchor. From there follow the airy arrete to the top. Each pitch 6 bolts.

Sport 60m, 2, 6
5.10b Off the Notch

Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.

Sport 24m, 6
5.11a UberMachismo
1 5.11a
2 5.11a
Sport 67m, 2, 10
5.10d Jungle Honey
Sport 26m, 11
5.12b The Fall of Eve
Sport
5.11b Dirty Dreams
Sport 24m
South Side
5.12d Tool
Sport 55m
5.11d Pangea

A Potrero Chico classic.

Sport 24m, 7
5.12d Gondwanaland
Sport 50m, 14
5.10d Through the Looking Glass
1 5.10a 35m
2 5.10d 20m

Starts on the south face of the uphill spire, then through the "looking glass" (tunnel between the spires), and up the north face of the downhill spire. First pitch 9 bolts, second 7 bolts.

Sport 55m, 2, 9
5.12a Peek-a-Boo Jesus
Sport 26m, 11
5.12a Aspire

Bolt line up the face of the down-hill spire. Use the anchor of Peek-a-Boo Jesus to rap down if your rope is too short.

Sport 46m, 17
5.11d Young Crankenstein
Sport 34m, 16
5.10d Easy Over

Shares anchor with first pitch of "Sunnyside Up", you can link up to the top from there.

Sport 29m, 12
5.10c Sunnyside Up
1 5.9 30m
2 5.10c 39m

This is a 2 pitch route with a sub-anchor for rappel on (long) 2nd pitch. Pitch 1: 10 bolts Pitch 2: 17 bolts (10 to sub-anchor)

Sport 69m, 2, 17

Showing all 19 routes.