Routes as sport in The Spires

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

1. 5.7: Climb up blocky/vegetated ledges passed a few bolts to the anchor. Slightly runout but well protected where it counts.

2. 5.9: Follow the crack making use of jamming/chimney/dihedral technique passing a few bolts and old Mexican irons. At one of the Mexican irons, look out right for a bolt, you should come out of the crack and make your way up a bolted slab to the anchor. Continuing in the crack will lead you to unprotectable (without trad gear) moves that are slightly harder than 5.9.

3. 5.10-: A quick boulder problem allowing you to stand on top of the pillar. Uncomforatble belay.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is a new anchor at the top with two hangers, there is also a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood". With twin 70m ropes you can make it down in a single rappel. 60m would also probably work but this is untested at the moment.

Alternate (and much harder) 2nd pitch for "Crack Test Dummies".

Starts on the slab right of the palm tree and goes up right to the first anchor. From there follow the airy arrete to the top. Each pitch 6 bolts.

Just to the right of 2nd pitch of Aguja Celo Rey. Share anchors with that one. Gold bolts.

Alternate second pitch for "Aguja Celo Rey" -- goes up the other spire.

A Potrero Chico classic.

Starts on the south face of the uphill spire, then through the "looking glass" (tunnel between the spires), and up the north face of the downhill spire. First pitch 9 bolts, second 7 bolts.

Bolt line up the face of the down-hill spire. Use the anchor of Peek-a-Boo Jesus to rap down if your rope is too short.

Shares anchor with first pitch of "Sunnyside Up", you can link up to the top from there.

This is a 2 pitch route with a sub-anchor for rappel on (long) 2nd pitch. Pitch 1: 10 bolts Pitch 2: 17 bolts (10 to sub-anchor)