Phototopos:

Description:

This is, probably, the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find.

  1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

  2. (5.9) More bolts.

  3. (5.9) More bolts to follow.

  4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards (up is 5.11), around the corner, then upwards again.

  5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

  6. (5.7) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

  7. (5.7) Keep going up the ramp.

  8. (5.10a) Bolts.

  9. (5.9) Bolts.

  10. (5.10a) Bolts.

  11. (5.10b, 5.9+ variation) Bolts.

  12. 5.8 Bolts.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Estrellas North Wall approx:
Long/Lat: -100.475274,25.950047

Route Grade Citations

5.10a ***** *** David Gibbs
5.10b Principal
12 Pitches (5.9,5.9,5.9,5.8,3rd class, 5.7,5.8,5.10b,5.9+,5.10b,5.10b,5.8)(S) *** Zorba Parer

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard great beautiful lovely fun nice easy interesting jugs traverse

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