El Salto is a sport climber’s paradise in Nuevo León. Steep limestone walls extend out of the massive canyons in the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range.
The various cliffs and sectors are offering everything from techy face climbing to steep tufa-pinching to roof climbing through caves. There are hundreds of climbs in El Salto, concentrated at different crags, mostly in 2 main canyons: Animas Wall and the The Cave in the main canyon (El Salto) and La Boca, the smaller side canyon with the Main Wall and multiple smaller sectors, and Cumbia Cave (listed here as a separate area as the access is different). Additional smaller areas are spread throughout the canyons as well, and the potential for further development is huge.
Drive through the town named "Cienega de Gonzalez", there is no clear sign with the town's name so make sure to ask. About 3/4 through "Cienega de Gonzales" you'll find a little chapel to your left, make a right turn there onto a dirt road that leads you into the canyon. Keep driving/walking unlit you find "Las Animas" wall. You will need a 4x4 vehicle to get to the wall. A lot of climbers do walk from "Cienega de Gonzalez" to the wall, it's just a 30 minute walk.
You could ask to stay at Kika's place, any of the other camps in Cienega de Gonzalez or camp anywhere you like. There is good camping spots at "La Boca" canyon.
Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!
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|5.10b||★★ Culo de Merlin|
|5.11b||★★ Trucutrú Love (primeras cadenas)|
|5.11c||★★★ Alien Tufa|
|5.11d||★★★ El Tecolotito|
|5.12a||★★★ Culo de la Negra|
|5.12b||★★★ Honey Bear|
|5.12c||★★★ Hijo de puta|
|5.13a||★★★ El Camino del Chino|
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