Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Mexico 1,895 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -103.089598, 23.788387

Approach:

From Cascada de la Concepcion carry on on the road on the right.

History:

bouldering sector developed in the late 90s

1.1. Aguascalientes 0 routes in Region

1.1.1. La Muela 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Baja California 0 routes in Region

1.2.1. Valle Azteca 0 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Piedras Gordas 0 routes in Crag

1.3. Baja California South 0 routes in Region

1.4. Campeche 0 routes in Region

1.5. Chiapas 0 routes in Region

1.5.1. Cañón del Sumidero 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Big Wall, much of it still virgin

1.6. Chihuahua 148 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -106.491638, 28.809806

1.6.1. Tutuaca 0 routes in Crag

1.6.2. Cumbres de Majalca Chih 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -106.420718, 28.797475

1.6.3. Creel 0 routes in Crag

1.6.4. Basaseachi 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -108.242890, 28.133530

1.6.5. Barranco del los Monches 0 routes in Crag

1.6.6. Peñoles 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

One of the largest Bouldering areas in the world. Still has a lot of unclimbed boulders. Try not to go in summer, it will be extremely hot, there will me lots of bees and snakes.

Approach:

All the boulder problems are in a range of 1 to 10 minutes walking from where you parked your car.

1.6.7. El Camino Real 74 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -106.546577, 31.675963

Unique Features And Strengths:

This area its about 1hour from Hueco Tanks, 20 minutes from the city (Ciudad Juarez, Chihuahua) good limestone, great desert, and have a lot of potencial, overhang, vertical.

Description:

Limestone, overhang, vertical, "new area", nice people, most area its free camping

Access Issues:

The crag have until now 3 important areas: Don Rayo private land, but its free or cooperation to the local family. Zona Lokitos private land, but free entrance and camping. and Trepachanga park 30 pesos entrance, and have a camping area. 3 areas are open on weekend, the others days you can entrance with the local climbers. el_compy@hotmail.com ponchoyoic@hotmail.com

Approach:

from 7 minutes to 40 minutes depending the sector.

Where To Stay:

The crag have until now 3 important areas: Don Rayo private land, but its free or cooperation to the local family. Zona Lokitos private land, but free entrance and camping. and Trepachanga park 30 pesos entrance, and have a camping area. 3 areas are open on weekend, the others days you can entrance with the local climbers. el_compy@hotmail.com ponchoyoic@hotmail.com

History:

Start developed in 2009

1.7. Coahuila 8 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -102.037816, 27.218336

1.7.1. Cañon de San Lorenzo 0 routes in Unknown

1.7.2. RockSport 0 routes in Gym

Unique Features And Strengths:
Description:

The climbing wall at RockSport has all you are looking for. It has a 14 meter high by 22 meter wide wall, with a small bouldering section and a huge campus-board.

1.7.3. Cañón del Indio 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -103.420999, 25.486608

Description:

Es una zona pequeña a las afueras de la ciudad de Torreón. Las rutas son pocas y fáciles, excelente para escaladores principiantes. Es recomendado ir en la mañana cuando hay sombra.

Access Issues:

La zona esta en propiedad privada por lo que lo hace seguro, sin embargo el acceso puede ser restringido a personas que tengan malas intenciones.

Where To Stay:

En Torreon

History:

Fueron las primeras rutas que se armaron en esta región. Roberto Nahle fue el pionero y descubridor de la zona. Después de armar rutas aquí, y por falta de superficie escalable, la atención se fue hacia la presa en donde se desarrollo por muchos años y ahora cuenta con mas de 100 rutas.

1.7.4. La Depo 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -103.408765, 25.535255

Description:

La Depo es una barda de 240 metros de largo y 3 de alto. Su dificultad es intermedia/fácil ya que esta a favor y las pisaderas son buenas, los agarres son chicos y micro.

Approach:

Estacionese donde pueda ver su carro.

1.8. Colima 0 routes in Region

Description:

Sandstone and granite climbing. Boulder, trad and lead climbing.

1.9. Durango 115 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -104.903116, 24.935019

1.9.1. La Presa 115 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -103.761756, 25.261704

Unique Features And Strengths:

The rock at "La Presa" is sharp limestone, and by sharp I mean really sharp! But that doesn't make this place any harm since there are really good climbs. Most of the climbs are next to the river.

Description:

This place is the heart of La Laguna. El "Cañon de Fernandez" is the canyon that is home of the river "Rio Nazas" where the water from "La Presa" flows year round. The climbs are located near to the river which makes this a unique place to climb in the desert, pretty much like an oasis.

Access Issues:

Sometimes the locals ask for money at la "Caseta de cobro", tell them you are here just to climb at the "reliz" and they should let you pass for free.

Approach:

Most walls at la presa can be approached by walking 1 to 5 minutes from your car.

Where To Stay:

Stay at "Faro los arturos" or any of the camping spots found next to the river, some of them have grills.

Ethic:

Leave no trace! Be careful with the native paintings.

History:

This area was first bolted by Roberto Nahle. After some years the locals from Torreon found an interest in rockclimbing and continued Roberto's effort to develop this climbing area.

1.9.2. Dinamita 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Boulders. It's better if you go during the winter since Summer is extremely hot (30C-45C).

Where To Stay:

Torreon, Coahuila

Ethic:

If you find any interesting prehispanic artifacts leave them where they so other people can get same sense of adventure and discovery as you did.

1.9.3. Peñon Blanco 0 routes in Area

Description:

Granito

1.9.4. Chupaderos 0 routes in Area

Approach:

Se camina alrededor de 5 minutos

History:

Chupaderos es un lugar cerca de la ciudad de Durango en donde se han filmado muchísimas películas del oeste. Este lugar también cuenta con excelente calidad de roca y algunas rutas.

1.9.5. Los Balcones 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

This climbing area (cliff) is still under development and there are few routs.

Approach:

40 minutes south of Durango

1.9.6. Puente de Ojuela 0 routes in Area

Description:

There are interesting, unclimbed, virgin walls that should be taken into consideration into developing a new climbing area.

1.10. Guanajuato 88 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -101.002018, 20.913684

1.10.1. La Bufa 71 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -101.250441, 20.995935

1.10.2. Peña sola 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -101.077146, 20.695559

1.11. Guerrero 64 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -99.986643, 17.570896

1.11.1. El Chonta (El Hoyanco) 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -99.523845, 18.647878

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great holds and rests everywhere, extremely long single pitches on very overhanging, 3D terrain!

Description:

This is the Hoyanco (Chonta) cave... Get the guidebook from Vertimania in Mexico City (may be out of date)! Just don't go to the ranch of Don Procopio, go to Don Bartolo's. NOT IN CHONTACOATLAN! For a good guide on how to get there, see http://vimeo.com/64006776 , keeping in mind that the next ranch in front of the cornfield (the one with the sign that says "Grutas del Chonta") is Don Bartolo's ranch, that is closer, but doesn't provide donkeys. CLIMBS ARE LISTED LEFT TO RIGHT.

Access Issues:

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 20 pesos per person as well as 20 pesos per car as per late 2013.

Approach:

See description.

Where To Stay:

You can camp in front of the cave, plenty of spots to pitch a tent. You have to bring food and water though! This you can ask Procopio to bring over, for a relatively small fee (I believe it is 80 pesos). You can actually bathe in the Chontacoatlan river down at the edge of Don Bartolo's cornfield, inside a cave larger than Hoaynco!

Ethic:

Carry out all of your garbage, no chipping holds.

1.12. Hidalgo 25 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -98.887891, 20.483194

1.12.1. El Chico 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -98.734402, 20.202656

Description:

Aqui nacio la escalada en Mexico! Esta en Hidalgo, cerca de Pachuca, situado entre 2300 y 3000m arriba del nivel del mar!

Birthplace of rock climbing in Mexico! Located in the state of Hidalgo, northeast of Mexico City, near the city of Pachuca at 2300-3000m above sea level!

Approach:

Dirigirse hacia Mineral del Chico desde Pachuca.

Go to Mineral del Chico from Pachuca.

1.12.2. La Laguna 0 routes in Crag

1.12.3. Actopan 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -98.904426, 20.212703

1.13. Jalisco 183 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -103.698944, 20.566641

Approach:

30 minute drive from Guadalajara.

1.13.1. Cerro de la mona 0 routes in Crag

1.13.2. El Cuajo 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -103.407702, 20.959347

1.13.3. Canon de Huaxtla 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -103.409352, 20.940155

1.13.4. El Diente 44 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -103.395064, 20.795078

1.13.5. La Hidroelectrica 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -103.339871, 20.777630

Unique Features And Strengths:

Park at the foot of the crag

Description:

Short routes most of them from 5.10 to 5.12

Access Issues:

The owner now charges 25 pesos per person

1.13.6. Ixcatan 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -103.362978, 20.888731

Unique Features And Strengths:

Best rock in Jalisco!

1.14. Michoacán 0 routes in Region

1.15. Morelos 0 routes in Region

1.15.1. Meztitla 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Good long routes with a very nice view, there's a wall with 3 hard technical routes. Good quality rock but some holds might break as it's conglomerate rock so belayers must wear helmets!

Description:

There are 3 walls. The first (from left to right when you arrive to the crag) has 2 routes graded 16, perhaps less, you can set a top rope by climbing from behind, it is a short walk from the crag, you just have to go around the rock to the left. The main big wall is next to it an has 2 routes both graded 18 and both are 30 meters long with nice holds all the way up, the first route has a crux almost at the top as you have to pass a big single stone that makes the route just a little overhang at that point (or you can avoid it going to the left but you will be deviating yourself from the route), the second route is similar but the crux is a the third bolt though it's not that of a hard move, don't forget to bring at least 13 carabiners as these routes are very long, anchors at the top are not very nice, if you are planning on top roping you can just set an anchor with a sling and carabiners and it should be okay. The third wall is just around the corner (going down to the right) and features 3 interesting short routes.

Access Issues:

You can access the crag from the boy scouts camp (they will charge you park fees and access fees, it cheap, around 50 pesos per car and per person) or you can just leave your car on one of the sidetracks and try to approach the crag from another point (not recommended if it's your first visit, it's just easier to go with the scouts).

Approach:

From Tepoztlán you have to drive to Meztitla, it's like 5 to 10 minutes from the town center, you can ask for directions to Meztitla and most people should know. Once you arrive to the scouts camp you can park your car there and ask for directions to the crag. It should be like a 15-20 minute walk from the base camp to the crag, mostly uphill.

Where To Stay:

You can camp at the boy scouts main camp or you can camp in some place inside the mountain but it could be dangerous, if it's your first time at the area it would be better just to stay at the boy scouts place. There are also a lot of small hotels in the town.

Ethic:

The mountains and hills around Tepoztlán are sacred for the people in the town so please don't leave any trash. Have respect for the place and be nice to the locals.

1.16. Nayarit 1 route in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -105.006690, 21.733230

1.16.1. Cerro Bola 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -105.434427, 22.612427

1.17. Nuevo León 922 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -99.959558, 25.551640

1.17.1. El Potrero Chico 598 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.476009, 25.949109

Unique Features And Strengths:

El Potrero Chico is one of the world's premiere big wall sport climbing destinations with over 600 routes including more than a dozen big wall multi-pitch climbs.

Description:

El Potrero Chico park is located just outside the small town of Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon, Mexico. Being just an hour away for the city of Monterrey, Mexico it is very easy to get here. Flights from the U.S. can have you to the climbing destination in as little as a half day. A taxi can take you from the airport to EPC in under an hour for about $45USD.

El Potrero Chico is also very easily driven to from the U.S. The most common route for driving comes through Nuevo Laredo at the border with Texas. After the border crossing the drive can be done in well under 3 hours.

The size and beauty of the mountain here is incredible and is a wonderful site for the eyes. Come to Mexico and enjoy not just the climbing but the wonderful culture as well.

Access Issues:

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach:

The rock climbing is split between the East and West side of the canyon. Most of the crags have a 5 to 10 minute approach while some of the crags have a 30 minute approach from inside the canyon. Since most of the camping and lodging is just outside the park you will have a 10 to 15 minute walk to get inside the park.

Where To Stay:

La Posada, Homero's, and La Pagoda all have excellent rooms and camping available all throughout the year.

1.17.2. La Huasteca 188 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -100.448977, 25.598868

Unique Features And Strengths:

From all the climbing areas in Nuevo Leon "La Huasteca" is the closest one to Monterrey. The rock here is limestone and its color is pale gray to white. Most routs here are slab, with some exceptions.

Description:

"La Huasteca" is home of lots of classic climbs in Nuevo Leon. There are some multi-pitch routs and a via ferrata. Some routs have very high first bolts, this is because the river has eroded the ground level during rain seasons.

Access Issues:

The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible.

Approach:

Drive from Monterrey on Morones Prieto heading east (oriente) towards Saltillo but be careful not to go onto the highway. Before the toll highway to Saltillo fallow the sings to "La Huasteca".

Where To Stay:

Either stay deep in the canon or at Monterrey. It is not recommended to stay at the entrance of the canon due to its proximity to the city.

1.17.3. El Salto 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.244994, 25.396215

Unique Features And Strengths:

Amazing rock quality.

Description:

The routs here are all world class

Access Issues:

You will need a 4x4 vehicle to get to the wall. A lot of climbers do walk from "Cienega de Gonzalez" to the wall, it's just a 30 minute walk.

Approach:

Drive through the town named "Cienega de Gonzalez", there is no clear sign with the town's name so make sure to ask. About 3/4 through "Cienega de Gonzales" you'll find a little chapel to your left, make a right turn there onto a dirt road that leads you into the canion. Keep driving/walking unlit you find "Las Animas" wall

Where To Stay:

You could ask to stay at Kika's place or camp anywhere you like. There is good camping spots at "La Boca" canion

1.17.4. Culo Del Gato 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.596914, 25.959168

Unique Features And Strengths:

High quality desert limestone, a lot of friction and smooth with your skin.

Description:

This is about 30 minutes northwest from "El Potrero Chico", on a different formation. Also lots of room for development.

Approach:

Walk uphill from the parking area on the obvious trail that zig-zags up straight to the wall

1.17.5. Cueva de Cumbia 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.133577, 25.303304

Unique Features And Strengths:

Total steepness... Roofs, 45 degree overhangs, long sustained routes, tufas, stalactites, no hands rests, kneebars, heelhooks, toehooks and lots of fun.

Description:

Cueva de Cumbia is a cave with overhung routs ranging from 5.12 to 5.13, there are some 5.11 though. The climbs here have lots of features like giant tufas and holes.

Approach:

To get to the cave you must know how to get to Las Adjuntas first. From Las Adjuntas walk about 200 meters downstream and look for a little ramp that goes uphill to your left. Go up straight, pass the big boulder until you are in a flat spot. Here move to your right to get to the start of the trail. It takes 20- 25 min to the cave at this point.

Where To Stay:

There are some good camping spots near the start of the trail, or you can stay with Lalo. (Last right house before the main bridge)

Ethic:

Dateeee

History:

Mark Grundon and Rodrigo Garza found this cave on 2013 and were the firsts to set routs here. The place is still in development, lots of room for more climbs.

1.17.6. Cañon de la Boca 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.232962, 25.385245

Description:

Este cañón se encuentra al sur este del cañón 'El Salto'. Para llegar se puede caminar desde Ciénega de Gonzalez.

Approach:

Caminar 20 min de Doña Kika hacia el cañon

Where To Stay:

En el cañón se puede acampar, es un lugar muy bonito de clima y vejetacion boscoso

1.17.7. El Diente 0 routes in Crag

Description:

El cañón del Diente cuenta con varias formaciones rocosas muy exóticas y paradisíacas. Las cuevas y paredes son de caliza y todas están repletas de tufas y chorreras de buenisima calidad. En la sombra se puede escalar incluso en días muy calientes. Los paisajes y vistas y el sentimiento de exposición en la mayoria de las rutas hacen que este lugar sea mágico y te desconecta de todas tus preocupaciones cotidianas.Tienes que venir a escalar a este lugar!

Access Issues:

El cañón del diente se encuentra detrás de una propiedad privada que indebidamente obstruye el camino que lleva hasta este lugar. Para llegar sin invadir propiedad privada se puede caminar por el arrollo que es federal.

Approach:

Para llegar se tienen que cruzar una caceta de seguridad donde se debe dejar una identificación, continuas por el camino y de terraceria hasta llegar a un segundo portón gris donde comienza la propiedad privada, a partir de ahí se sigue el arrollo hasta llegar al diente.

Where To Stay:

Se puede acampar en cualquier planicie que encuentren a no mas de 10 metros del rió, esto para no invadir propiedad privada.

Ethic:

No dejar basura, no rayar paredes ni piedras, no hacer fogatas, no llevar perros.

History:

Antigua mina yesera.

1.17.8. Bestia Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.18. Oaxaca 0 routes in Region

1.19. Puebla 83 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -97.892149, 19.017391

1.19.1. Los Pericos 83 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -98.151906, 18.913712

Unique Features And Strengths:

Esta zona es la mas cercana a la ciudad de Puebla. Se caracteriza por sus regletas y se dice que lo que tocas pisas.

Description:

Los pericos es una zona característica por sus regletas y su textura suave. Es roca volcánica muy pulida. Hay muchísimos mosquitos así que lleve un buen repelente, pantalones, y manga larga. No se recomienda nadar en el lago ya que el agua no esta limpia y se puede enfermar o infectar.

Access Issues:

No estacionar el coche después de la barda que tiene un letrero con la lyenda: "Propiedad Privada"

Approach:

Tomar el periférico de puebla hacia "Valsequillo", despues doble a la derecha hacia "Carretera A Tetela". Dar vuelta a la izquierda en camino de terraceria con señalamiento "Carretera a Los Cantiles". El estacionamiento esta a la derecha del camino antes de la puerta donde dice "Propiedad Privada". Del estacionamiento hay que caminar por el camino que entra a la propiedad privada y seguir el camino principal hasta llegar a un puentesito que apenas se ve (antes de las casas) y justo donde empieza el puente hay que bajar a la izquierda por una vereda. Seguir la vereda hasta llegar a la zona.

Where To Stay:

Se puede acampar en la cuevita que esta llegando a la zona. En caso de que llueva ahí se mantiene seco. Pueden proveerse de viveres en la "Miselanea Doña Viri" que está unos metros antes de la terracería, para más detalles de la zona pregunten por Doña Petronila (Doña P) o cualquiera de sus hijos que esté en la tienda.

1.20. Querétaro 59 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: -99.840679, 20.849313

1.20.1. Bernal 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: -99.947616, 20.750292

Unique Features And Strengths:

In the town of Bernal, not far from the city of Queretaro in the state of Queretaro, lies the third largest monolith in the world: the Pena de Bernal and its surrounding metamorphic boulders.

Description:

Located at the "Pueblo Magico" of Bernal. It is about 45 minutes from the city of Queretaro, and about 2.5 hours from Mexico City.

Originally known to rock climbers for its multipitch routes on the Pena, now it is more popular due to the great bouldering.

Climbing can be done year-round owing to its semi-desertic climate, although given the abundance of sunlight in all faces except the north face of the Pena, multipitching is best avoided in the months of May-September (overcast days are OK, though). Sport climbing can be done year round in the adjacent crags. Best conditions can be found in the winter months of December and January (also the driest), but even in the hottest months of April and May shade and wind can be found throughout the day in the boulders and sport climbs. June and July are the wettest months, although even then (July), it only rains around 12 mm.

The rock type is metamorphic: very solid, forming similar features to sandstone, but less rough. The style varies from slopey and overhanging to technical crimpy slabs.

Some boulders can be tall and the landings irregular, so bringing 2+ pads is advisable.

When multipitching (usually sport bolted), it is good to remember that the routes at the Pena are old school and are sparcely bolted, but the quality of the multipitches is supreme and the grades moderate.

Care must be taken not only not to damage the local flora and fauna, but also to beware of it. This is because much of the flora has thorns in it (e.g. prickly pears), and the fauna includes rattlesnakes, coralillos, and kissing bugs. Therefore, watch your step and in the hot season, always apply and carry insect repellent.

As for garbage and toilet issues when bouldering/sport climbing, always carry out what you carry in. Alternatively, there are toilets in the (very) nearby Rancho Chichi'Dho (see "Where to Stay"). Before going multipitching you can use the toilets at the base. Remember they usually charge a small fee, though!

Always bring plenty of water (especially when multipitching) or purchase it from town.

Plenty to do on rest days, ranging from doing a wine and cheese tour to visiting the beautiful adjacent townships, to just chilling in the Rancho Chichi'Dho.

For more information and topos, purchase the Bernal guidebook from Vertimania, Memento Climbing Gym, or Bloc-E Climbing Gym in Mexico City or the climbing gym in Queretaro.

Access Issues:

When multipitching, you will have to register before climbing. Be discrete and if you go multipitching on a public holiday or weekend, make sure to tell tourists to step well away while climbing the first pitches of routes that are on the tourist trail.

When accessing the bouldering and sport climbing area, you will be charged a fee of (at the time of writing) 50 MXN (around 3.5 USD) per person. This fee is paid to the representatives of the Rancho Chichi'Dho, who own this area. They use the money to maintain the trails, pick up trash, and rejuvenate the flora and fauna of the area, so it is well-spent.

Pets are allowed as long as these behave or are on a leash.

ABSOLUTELY NO ILLEGAL DRUGS. This includes cannabis.

Approach:

From Mexico City, take highway 57 north to Queretaro. When approaching San Juan del Rio, turn right and follow the sign that says "Bernal" or "Pena de Bernal". Follow highway 120 to get to the town of Bernal. Once there, follow the signs to the "Pena". This should take you around a fountain switching back uphill a few times until you get to a paved (with round stones) parking lot which is accessed and exited through ramps. Park here if you are going multipitching. If you're going bouldering/sport climbing, continue straight past this parking lot until you reach a bifurcation. Go up (right) the small street. you will reach a dirt parking lot next to a boulder, a small chapel built on a boulder and a pond. Park here.

For multipitching, after you park, go up through and past the stores and food stands. Follow the obvious stone trail leading up. You will find the most popular routes like "La Bernalina" right on the trail on your left about 10-15 mins from the parking lot.

For bouldering/sport climbing (all except the Cyclist), walk up on the dirt trail around the right side of the chapel built on a boulder, and behind it you should see a plywood door with barbwire on top. This is the entrance to the bouldering/sport climbing area. When you enter, there will be a boulder on your right and a white sign warning you about the fee on your left. Locations of the sport climbs/boulders are given in each section. HOWEVER! If you're going to the Cyclist bouldering area, go to the front side of the Pena as per the map here. It is private property, owned by the Cabrera family. The deal is that climbing is allowed via a guide, who will charge (in 2011) 150 MXN for guiding a group of up to 10 people. Park as if you were going multipitching. Huge potential here.

Where To Stay:

The most popular choice for climbers is to stay/camp at the Rancho Chichi'Dho. To get to the Rancho Chichi'Dho, follow highway 100 out of Bernal towards San Pablo. About 3-5 minutes later you should see some small white arches on your left next to a sign that says "La Tortuga". Turn left there. Follow the road down until you reach a T-junction, and turn right there. After that, go along the dirt road following the signs that say "La Tortuga" and subsequently the ones that say "Chichi'Dho". GPS coordinates for the start of the dirt road : N 20.764748, -99.939389. The cost (at the time of writing) is of 150 MXN per person, which includes access to the bouldering/sport climbing area.

However, there are also a wealth of options for accomodation in the Bernal township.

Ethic:

No chipping, erase tick marks after using them, bring out what you bring in, do not bring misbehaved dogs/pets, do not destroy local flora/fauna, do not play loud music, and be kind and respectful to the locals.

History:

Located in Otomi and Chichimeca territory, this feature has been sacred for thousands of years. Its original name is De'Hendo ("in between two").

The township was founded in 1642 and named Bernal (a word of Arabic origin meaning "large rock feature") or Concepcion de Bernal. It was originally a Spanish mining town with a convent. This convent was under constant Chichimeca attack until a batallion was brought to fortify the town, which subsequently grew and was re-named San Sebastian Bernal.

Now tourism is the main industry, although quartz is abundantly sold here.

1.21. Quintana Roo 0 routes in Region

1.22. San Luis Potosí 53 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -100.411089, 22.564706

1.22.1. Guadalcazar 53 routes in Unknown

Summary:

Long/Lat: -100.426041, 22.608290

Description:

Guadalcazar es el nombre del pueblo. Las zonas/cuevas para escalar están en la cercanía de este pueblo mágico.

1.23. Sinaloa 0 routes in Region

1.24. Sonora 0 routes in Region

1.25. State of Mexico and Mexico City 116 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: -99.607952, 19.358486

Description:

Mexico City is a valley located in central Mexico at an altitude of about 2400 m bove sea level. It is surrounded by mountains. Some noteworthy climbing areas that are in the metropolitan area of this city include: Los Dinamos, La UNAM, La Marquesa, among others.

1.25.1. La UNAM 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -99.195257, 19.331622

Description:

Ciudad Universitaria has a few areas for bouldering, trad, and sport climbing made up of volcanic rock from "El Xitle" volcano. All of them are in urban areas. Please contribute to this if you have the knowledge, as I only posted what I am sure (or think I'm sure) of. Lots of climbs still yet to be posted!

1.25.2. Copilco 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Sport and Bouldering

Approach:

Metro Copilco inside Unidad Habitacional Latinoamericana

1.25.3. Los Dinamos 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -99.263177, 19.288626

Description:

Sport and Trad

Approach:

By car or walking from Magdalena Contreras

Where To Stay:

No camping place. But the proximity to Mexico City makes easy for staying at hotels and other types of lodging.

1.25.4. Ajusco 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Sport

Approach:

Ajusco

1.25.5. Texcoco San Pablo 0 routes in Crag

1.25.6. Aculco 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -99.924195, 20.159942

Description:

Estado de Mexico

1.25.7. Jilotepec 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -99.533766, 19.915544

1.25.8. Catedral 0 routes in Crag

1.25.9. Ajusco 0 routes in Crag

1.26. Tabasco 0 routes in Region

1.27. Tamaulipas 0 routes in Region

1.28. Tlaxcala 12 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -98.186316, 19.435704

1.28.1. Atlihuetzia 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -98.183198, 19.362021

Description:

Es una zona de roca volcánica que tiene muy bonita vista hacia una cascada. Se ve el hotel misión desde lo alto de las rutas. Las rutas tienen aproximadamente entre 15 y 25 metros de altura.

Access Issues:

Puedes estacionar tu vehículo en las afueras del Hotel Misión Tlaxcala. Ahí puedes pedir que le echen un ojo.

Approach:

Desde el hotel, camine por el lecho del rió que baja hacia la cascada, de ahí siga caminando por un canal muy angosto que lo llevara a la base de la pared

Where To Stay:

No se recomienda acampar, la zona no es muy grande como para quedarse más de 2 días. El hotel donde se estacionan los carros puede ser buena opción.

1.29. Veracruz 0 routes in Region

1.29.1. Cerro Brujo 0 routes in Area

Unique Features And Strengths:

This place is the middle of the forest, full of nature and surrounded by a river.

Description:

Cerro Brujo is a project to develop climbing and caves for shelter as a hostel for visitors. The place belongs to "Soda", I guess nobody know his real name, a very easygoing guy, he bolted most of the cliff. There's a fee to entrance of $50 pesos $3usd approx. The hike is good for warm up and the crag is nice and soft, grades go from 5.9 to 5.13c, most of the routes are sporty but there are a couple of multipath and trad climbing.

Access Issues:

By bus: Take a bus to Jalcomulco from Veracruz. By car: Drive to Xalapa then to Coatepec and finally to Jalcomulco.

There are 2 options to park, 1)Go to Selva Azul, a truistic center or 2)Go to downtown.

The pace is always open, best season is on winter because of the warm weather. Jalcomulco is famous because people go to the river to do kayaking.

Approach:

Go to downtown and ask for the elementary school "Ursulo Galvan" is on a double way street, the only one in town with median (strip), you are going to have downtown behind and you'll be facing the elementary school, walk to the left all the way until street ends (best place to leave car) follow the road and find the river, (ask for Cerro Brujo if you see a neighbor) go to the left side and find the road on the other side of the river, you'll see all the way long purple/blue dots on rocks that drive you to the crag, continue on the road until you'll find a concrete road turn right and keep walking until you see a pipe go around (look for the blue dots) and start the hike. You'll find a door made by roots keep hiking until you see the wall.

Where To Stay:

At Soda's place is a good option if you have some extra bucks. If you want something cheap go to downtown, there are a lot of two-bit hotels to stay.

1.30. Yucatán 0 routes in Region

1.31. Zacatecas 18 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -102.653883, 23.304649

1.31.1. Linares 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: -102.948289, 23.139829