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Summary

Grades from 5.8 - 5.11D. A couple of clasic multi-pitch routes. You'll find lots of fun here.

Description

This is a great area with lots of routes and grades to choose from. Beware of lose rock after rainy days (people not wearing helmets satay a safe distance from the rock faces). The face is oriented to the west so in the summer you can climb during the morning up until noon. During winter you can climb in the warm sun all afternoon.

Access issues inherited from La Huasteca

The access is controlled by policemen who lookout for irregularities, just slow down and wait for them to ask you to keep driving. During raining season there are chances that the river is too high to cross, making this climbing area inaccessible.

Approach

Drive from the La Huasteca Park entrance and get to La Zona Extrema.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.8 * El Güey del Jeep Sport 15m, 7

Left most climb on south facing wall

FFA: Miguel Guerra

FA: Miguel Guerra

Set by Miguel Guerra

2
5.9 ** Manos de Arista Sport 15m, 7

obvious roof with a big hole on the left side. Repisa hoyo grande en la parte inferior

3
5.8 Unknown 3 Sport 18m, 8
4
5.8 * Unknown 4 Sport 31m, 12
5
5.10a * Como tu mamá Sport 28m, 11

to the right of unknown 4. avoid using the other wall. the best moves are during first three bolts of face climb.

Set by Miguel Guerra

FA: Miguel Guerra

6
5.8 Grieta facil Sport 25m 2, 6

Not very well protected

7
5.8 * La del Dani Sport 35m 2

Set by Dani de la Fuente

8
5.9 Unknown Sport 31m
11
5.10c * El Arco Sport 94m 4

Gray canal to the left of El Gran Maestro.

Set by Miguel Guerra

FFA: Miguel Guerra

FA: Miguel Guerra

12
5.10d * Emperador Sport 25m, 11

Fun route if you stay on the face of the wall.

Set by Julio Cesar VZZ & Herazmo Guzman (el mudo)

13
5.10d ** Escalera del insecto Sport 32m
14
5.11c El Gran Maestro Sport 6

6 largos los niveles son: 10a, 11c, 10-, 9, 10+ (diedro) 7 (2 plaquetas). Muy buena ruta, algo de roca suelta. Lleven unas 14 bandas, porq el 11 esta muy bien protegido.

6 pitches: 10a, 11c, 10-, 9, 10+, 7

Set by Rafa C.

FA: Rafa C.

15
5.11b ** Viva la France Sport 30m, 11

Set by Rafa C.

16

Pitch one is a golden corner. 10a

Pitch two or better to do as an extension is 15 meteres of 11a baby tufa climbing.

This is the only golden corner at the Zona Extrema. It is in the middle of the wall.

Set by Mark Grundon & Rodrigo Garza Maldonado

FA: Mark Grundon & Rodrigo Garza Maldonado

17
5.10a * De Cañon Sport 27m, 10

Set by Rata

18
5.10c ** Veamos de que estas hecho Sport 25m, 9

Set by A. Martinez

19
5.11b Spiderman Sport 11

bouldery start. if you follow the bolts then it's really a 5.11D

Set by Rafa C.

20
5.10b * Patos de fuego Sport 27m, 11

To the right of Spiderman

Set by Rafa C.

21
5.10d * El Retorno Sport 30m, 11

Set by Daniel/Chazz

22
5.9 * Guillermo Costecho Sport 33m, 15

Set by Timbon

23
5.11b ** Chiquita y Facilona Sport 30m, 12

Set by Mike Guerra

24
5.10c Patricio Gamboa Sport 30m, 11

Set by Patricio Gamboa

25
5.10a La Fiesta de los Alebrijes Sport 20m, 8

Set by Rafa C.

26
5.11a ** La Cruda del Alquimista Sport 30m, 11

Set by Rafa C.

27
5.10a Niña en patines Sport 24m, 9

Set by Rafa C.

28
5.11d Don Paco Sport 30m, 11

Set by Hans/Paco Medina

29
5.10c ** Gravedad Cero Sport 8

Set by Rafa/Canek

30
5.9 * Hobbit Sport 20m, 9
31
5.8 * Soldaditos Sport 40m 3

Around the right side of the main wall. 3rd pitch is rated "R" (runout) until finished (trad recomended for 3rd pitch if not done in solo) 3er largo es "R" (runout), desprotegido hasta reunion (se recomienda equipo de trad si no se quiere hacer en solo hasta reunion)

Set by R. Velarde/Jorge G.

32
5.11a El Camino Correcto Sport 38m

80m rope needed. You can still climb it with a 70m rope, as you lower the climber and you run out of rope climb the easy slab to the first available ledge. From there the climber can untie and down-climb to the ground (about 3 meters)

33
5.10c Chulosin Sport

Set by Rata

34
5.11 (Nueva Ruta) Sport
35
5.10b *** Warriors Sport

Set by Americo

Areas

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