Meztitla Rock climbing0 route in crag
- Grades: US
- Approach time: 15-10 minutes
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Good long routes with a very nice view, there's a wall with 3 hard technical routes. Good quality rock but some holds might break as it's conglomerate rock so belayers must wear helmets!
There are 3 walls. The first (from left to right when you arrive to the crag) has 2 routes graded 16, perhaps less, you can set a top rope by climbing from behind, it is a short walk from the crag, you just have to go around the rock to the left. The main big wall is next to it an has 2 routes both graded 18 and both are 30 meters long with nice holds all the way up, the first route has a crux almost at the top as you have to pass a big single stone that makes the route just a little overhang at that point (or you can avoid it going to the left but you will be deviating yourself from the route), the second route is similar but the crux is a the third bolt though it's not that of a hard move, don't forget to bring at least 13 carabiners as these routes are very long, anchors at the top are not very nice, if you are planning on top roping you can just set an anchor with a sling and carabiners and it should be okay. The third wall is just around the corner (going down to the right) and features 3 interesting short routes.
You can access the crag from the boy scouts camp (they will charge you park fees and access fees, it cheap, around 50 pesos per car and per person) or you can just leave your car on one of the sidetracks and try to approach the crag from another point (not recommended if it's your first visit, it's just easier to go with the scouts).
From Tepoztlán you have to drive to Meztitla, it's like 5 to 10 minutes from the town center, you can ask for directions to Meztitla and most people should know. Once you arrive to the scouts camp you can park your car there and ask for directions to the crag. It should be like a 15-20 minute walk from the base camp to the crag, mostly uphill.
Where to stay
You can camp at the boy scouts main camp or you can camp in some place inside the mountain but it could be dangerous, if it's your first time at the area it would be better just to stay at the boy scouts place. There are also a lot of small hotels in the town.
The mountains and hills around Tepoztlán are sacred for the people in the town so please don't leave any trash. Have respect for the place and be nice to the locals.
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