Cyprus Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Cyprus 388 routes in Region

9 12 15 13 14 11 10 7 5 6 2 3 1 4

1 Episkopi (Paphos) 2 Xeros Valley 3 Kourtelorotsos 4 Episkopi (Lemessos) 5 Ineia-Drousheia Area 6 Cape Pyla 7 Cape Greko 9 Yudi Mountain 10 Agios Iraklidios 11 Limbi 12 Bahçeli 13 Beşparmak 14 Garga Suyu 15 Buffa Wall

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.197654, 33.442401

description

Cyprus climbing overview.

North Cyprus climbing.

ethic

The local online source is: https://www.cyprusrocks.eu. Please consider donating to their bolting fund.

1.1. Episkopi (Paphos) 38 routes in Area

1 2

1 Lower Tier 2 Upper Tier

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.793874, 32.526201

summary

Episkopi is a Cyprus village built on the west side of the Ezousas River. It is situated 10 kilometers from Paphos and it is characterized by the steep limestone rocks that dominate the village.

description

The area consists of 2 main sectors.

Lower Tier Sector

A brilliant sector with vertical to slightly overhung routes. The sector faces south and it gets the sun until 12:00 – 13:00.

Left Side

Follow the directions towards the overhang sector. When you reach the wall of the sector follow it all the way to its south end and then follow the cave to your right that takes you to ‘’Bat Trip’’ and then the rest of the routes in the sector.

Main

Currently the sector with the most routes. Steep overhanging routes are an ideal choice for climbing in mid-to-high range difficulties. Despite the east orientation of the crag, it gets the sun only early in the morning. It is notably cooler than the rest of the crags and it makes climbing possible even during the summer months.

Dome

This free-standing pillar offers some short but worthy routes. The sector faces south and it gets in shade late in the afternoon or never depending on the season.

Upper Tier Sector

Massive crag but not developed yet. Some trad routes were established many years ago mainly on the left side of the crag and an amazing line following the most prominent feature on the wall, a cracked dihedral in the middle of the crag. On top of the trad lines, two new sport routes were recently bolted on the right side of the crag.

Those limestone walls offer some versatile routes from vertical to slightly overhanging crimpy routes to steep athletic overhangs. With currently 30 routes ranging from 6a up to 8b/8c and a lot of space for potential new masterpieces, Episkopi definitely worth a visit from mid-grade to high-end sport climbers and developers.

Climbing is possible all year round but July and August are the warmer months and probably worth avoiding. Rain in Cyprus is infrequent but normally occurs in December and January. Despite the overhang character of the lower sector, the rock gets wet (except a couple of routes) after one day of consistent rain and it takes longer to dry up. The rest of the routes dry up quickly.

approach

Episkopi village can be easily reached due to the short distance from Paphos and it can be combined with climbing in the rest of the crags in the area. From the main roundabout in the entrance of Paphos follow the E710 road towards Episkopi which is 10km away from there. If you are driving from elsewhere and you are coming from the A7 motorway it is also possible to exit and take road E606 for 6km and then turn left into an unnamed road towards the village. The sectors are in close distance from everywhere in the village so you can park your car and walk to the crags.

ethic

Environment: Be thoughtful about your presence and minimize your impact. The inadequate monitoring and enforcement of environmental legislation in Cyprus leaves ecosystems vulnerable to individuals’ behavior. Toilets: Try to use your home toilet or the public toilet in the center of the village before hitting the crag. If nature calls while in the crag choose a location as far away from the crag as possible. Bury your waste and take all the paper with you. Do not bury toilet paper since animals can dig and expose it. Contrary to popular belief, toilet paper does not disintegrate easily. Personal Responsibility: Accept the risk of climbing and take full responsibility for your actions. Respect: Be aware of the people in your vicinity and act respectfully to other climbers and locals. Refrain from playing loud music in the crags. Litter: Take your litter with you (that includes your cigarette butts) and if possible collect some more from the already heavily littered crag.

history

The development of the routes and the sectors was carried out mainly by Andreas Parparinos, Stefanos Papadopoulos, Kyriakos Rossidis, Nikolas Patsalos, and Marios Hadjipetris. The majority of the bolts that were used were sponsored by the Get Out store while the rest was funded by an initiative from the Cyprus climbing community.

1.1.1. Lower Tier 38 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.794047, 32.526732

summary

A brilliant sector with vertical to slightly overhung routes. The sector faces south and it gets the sun until 12:00 – 13:00.

description

The lower tier(s) are mostly overhanging, up to around 20m, and contain hard sport routes mostly in the upper 7s and throughout the 8s. Cyprus's answer to Ceuse!

Left Side

Follow the directions towards the overhang sector. When you reach the wall of the sector follow it all the way to its south end and then follow the cave to your right that takes you to ‘’Bat Trip’’ and then the rest of the routes in the sector.

Main

Currently the sector with the most routes. Steep overhanging routes are an ideal choice for climbing in mid-to-high range difficulties. Despite the east orientation of the crag, it gets the sun only early in the morning. It is notably cooler than the rest of the crags and it makes climbing possible even during the summer months.

Dome

This free-standing pillar offers some short but worthy routes. The sector faces south and it gets in shade late in the afternoon or never depending on the season.

approach

The best place to park (if not occupied) is in the space opposite this water thingy marked" ER 1953". Then go up this small concreted road for maybe 10m, then to the right of this building. Then head north across some scrubland until you find the crag. 5 mins from the car in all.

ethic

The lower sectors are home to a significant colony of pigeons and bats (amongst other things). As such the environment around the sectors is not the healthiest. The left-hand sector (containing most of the better easy routes) is especially affected, where you will be standing on top of a 2cm thick carpet of pigeon guano. It is worth bearing in mind that this stuff can contain some very nasty diseases. Frequent hand sanitation, and/or masks, are highly recommended (not exactly a foreign prospect in these times!).

1.1.2. Upper Tier 0 routes in Area

summary

The massive upper sector (up to around 60m) is essentially undeveloped and subject to access issues - which is a shame as it could be developed into a world-class sector.

description

Massive crag but not developed yet. Some trad routes were established many years ago mainly on the left side of the crag and an amazing line following the most prominent feature on the wall, a cracked dihedral in the middle of the crag. On top of the trad lines, two new sport routes were recently bolted on the right side of the crag.

1.2. Xeros Valley 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.857710, 32.653246

summary

Great sector in a peaceful and remote location above the Xeros river valley.

description

Remote sector in a pleasant location overlooking the Xeros river valley. Developed fairly recently with 7 quality sports routes. Potential for more sports and some trad routes. The rock here provides pleasant movement-oriented climbing, requiring a variety of climbing techniques in surprisingly exposed positions.

access issues

Faces South West. Gets the sun from mid-morning onwards. A large tree in the middle provides welcome shade in warmer weather whilst between routes. Many of the route names are unknown. The grades need confirmation. The rock can be a little loose. Some lower offs are carabiners, others are ring bolts.

approach

Directions are described as if approaching from Pafos. Take the F617 towards Salamiou. Just before entering the village of Salamiou take the road on the left (signposted Panagia tou Sinti - difficult to see until passed the turning). Continue down the road to the river bed - approx 5km (becomes graveled track towards the end). Cross the concrete ford to reach the other side of the river, and take the right fork. The track becomes rough for around 200m. As the track rises back up the other side of the valley it improves and becomes tarmac again. Follow this for about 3km (you can see the destination on the right). When a small habitation can be seen hiding on the right, take the small track next to it. Follow this for around 1km until the crag is reached. Parking on the grassy verge. The sector can also be driven to via the village of Galataria - in which refer to the google map link.

1.3. Kourtelorotsos 70 routes in Crag

7 4 2 5 3 6 1

1 Picnic Area 2 Corner Sector 3 Main Wall 4 Main Slab 5 Top Parking Sector 6 Road Sector 7 Kourtelorotsos North

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.796365, 32.702729

summary

A compact, but excellent crag. Home to probably the best sport routes on the island. The rock is hard limestone, reaching heights of 28m. The crag is split into several sectors and in such a way that it is always possible to climb in the shade.

description

Great all year round crag. Takes a day or so to dry out after sustained rain (rare). Busy (by Cyprus standards) at weekends and holidays during the Spring and Autumn. The Extreme View Cafe, located 1 km back up the road to Pafos, is highly recommended.

approach

To find the crag, follow the B6 heading east from Pafos. About 14km east of Pafos, take the F616 road northwards situated just east of the AsproKemmos dam (signposted Mamonia, Agios Georgios, Agios Nikolaos). Continue on this road following the line of the Dhiarizos river for 10km. Continue through Agios Georgios and for another 4km, passing the Extreme View cafe. The crag becomes visible a few hundred meters further as the road drops down. Obvious parking area on the left.

ethic

Please be aware that birds sometimes nest in the top of the crack a third of the way up Khoros Tis Siopis (main slab) and in the top of the flake halfway up Kalitechnis (main wall). Try to avoid these routes if it looks like this has happened (usually April through May).

1.3.1. Picnic Area 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.795844, 32.702399

1.3.2. Corner Sector 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.796324, 32.702467

1.3.3. Main Wall 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.796224, 32.702625

1.3.4. Main Slab 22 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.796336, 32.702703

1.3.5. Top Parking Sector 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.796296, 32.702115

1.3.6. Road Sector 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 34.796139, 32.702482

1.3.7. Kourtelorotsos North 0 routes in Sector

1.4. Episkopi (Lemessos) 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.677809, 32.875363

summary

Newly developed limestone crag located close to the large village of Episkopi, about 10km west of Limassol. The routes are around 10-14m in length, mostly with difficult starts and low-down cruxes.

description

Faces North Mostly doesn't get the sun except very early in the morning/late in the evening. This makes it a good summer option.

approach

From the Limassol-Pafos highway take the number 35 turnoff and head south towards the center of Episkopi village. After around 1km pass the Episkopiana hotel on the right and take the turning on the right immediately after the hotel. Continue past the school and follow the small road as it winds down into the small valley. The crags can be seen on the left after around 3km. Either park just off the road directly facing the crag and follow the route to the crag shown in blue on the picture, or continue for 100m and park close to the junction with the dirt track. In the latter case follow the (reasonably) obvious hunter's track to the base of the crag. Whichever route you take, keep a bit of an eye out for snakes just in case!

1.5. Ineia-Drousheia Area 127 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.963319, 32.378858

description

This beautiful area on the west coast of Cyprus is a boulder jungle of mostly great quality sandstone with a potential of 500+ problems.

The bouldering experience in Ineia/Drousheia is second to none, with varied movement and style of problems on great rock. The height of boulders range from powerful low balls to monster highballs (many of which yet to be climbed) but the most common height is 3-5m. The boulders are generally well clustered together and access is mostly easy due to their close proximity to farmer's roads, with the exception of some short bush-wacking required for a few remote boulders.

The biggest difference to other areas in Europe is that you get great conditions all year round, in all but perhaps the hottest months of July and August. Even then however, due to the altitude (around 500m), this area is normally cooler than the rest of the island and you can escape the heat by climbing in the shade, early morning or late evening. The bouldering is set in a very peaceful and wild area of the island overlooking the Akamas Peninsula and Lara bay, with great views across the west and northwest coast of Cyprus, easy access to the beach and close proximity to traditional Cypriot villages of the Paphos region.

access issues

No known access issues, the area is within the Akamas National Park. Please respect the nature and behave responsibly (do not litter, try to keep to established roads/trails as much as possible and practice the principle of leaving the place you visit better than it was before). This is to maintain the current free access to the boulders for everyone to enjoy.

As the rock quality in the area is excellent, we must as climbers do our best to ensure that the rock remains in the best condition possible for the future. As such please read the steps below that can be taken to ensure that we preserve the rock while climbing:

1. Please don’t climb with wet or dirty shoes, as this damages the hardened outer layer of sandstone over time, exposing the soft layer underneath, which is prone to erosion. As such make sure to thoroughly clean your shoes before pulling on any problems using a rag, carpet etc.

2. Don’t climb when the rock is wet or damp, and refrain from climbing the day after it has rained. The rock may appear dry on the outside however the inner layers absorb water which weakens the overall integrity of the rock, which can cause holds to break. A good rule of thumb: if the ground around the rock is still pretty wet then probably you shouldn’t climb.

3. Don’t use wire brushes to clean the rock as this can be highly damaging to the rock, there may be occasions where some wire brushing may be necessary to remove heavy patches of lichen, but this should always be done as a last resort, with a light touch and a lot of care, so if you need to clean something opt for nylon or bristle brushes.

4. While the farmers we have spoken to are perfectly fine with us climbing on their land this is dependent on us not disturbing or damaging any of their crops and trees, so please be extra careful of this when climbing on boulders located in farmland as this is the easiest and quickest way for us to lose access to these boulders.

5. Don’t litter! (This should go without saying)

6. No chipping, manufacturing, or modification of holds! (This too should also go without saying)

To summarize, the area around Inia and Droushia is an incredible area with unique rock and climbing, and the only one of its kind in Cyprus. As there is a limited amount of quality rock on the island if we all make sure to follow the above steps, we will be ensuring that the boulders and crags in the area will survive and that their quality will be maintained over the years for everyone to enjoy!

history

The Climbing community in Cyprus is pretty small and you can imagine that the Bouldering community is even smaller. Over the years there has been sporadic Bouldering activity on the island, mainly seen as practice for roped climbing or at times when active climbers did not have a partner to climb routes but had time to kill. The development of bouldering in Cyprus mirrors the development of climbing in other larger nations, where the focus was initially on developing Sport and Trad climbing areas.

Most notable development was the organisation of some Bouldering Festivals in the 2010s (the last one being in 2015) by a group of some of the active core of climbers at the time, including members from the "Climber's Den" (a small cosy member’s wall in Nicosia which is still active today). Some participant names include: Andreas Parparinos, Andreas Theophanous, Agnes Phili, Marios Hadjipetris, Evagoras Xydas, Kyriakos Rossidis, and Xavier Otenblaaum, amongst others. The development however stayed confined to these festivals and never really took shape into establishing boulder problems or projecting harder boulder lines.

This changed when a strong and eager young bouldering specialist, Christos Sophocleous, decided to explore the boulders back home in the west of Cyprus in the area near Akamas National Park. Chris was nurtured in Glasgow's infamous urban bouldering scene at "Dumbarton rock", as well as the other prime bouldering venues of Scotland and mainland Europe, and who in a matter of 5 years of climbing experience, managed to redpoint "Sabotage" (Font 8A), one of Dave MacLeod's problems. So with abundant talent and power to spare, Chris started adding a few lines here and there on his infrequent short visits back home and establishing the first 6C-7B lines, before he managed to spark the attention of Demetris Papakyriacou, through his YouTube videos, who also lived and climbed in the UK but was also exploring many of the prime bouldering areas in the USA (Joshua Tree, Red Rock Canyon, Bishop and so on). Demetris on his short trips back home, with the help of Markos (local climber), then went on to repeat some of Chris’ lines, found new boulders and added a few lines in the 6s, to bring up the total tally to 50 problems.

The realisation was made that there was great undiscovered potential and quality in Ineia & Drousheia and eventually Demetris connected with Chris and together they started gathering all the info with the goal of eventually creating a topo and attracting more people into Bouldering.

Since Chris moved back to Cyprus permanently in 2021, with the sole focus to hunt for new boulders and establish new lines, the development saw a rapid increase, attracting more and more people to help with finding, cleaning and developing new boulders. Since then, a handful of people have been contributing new lines, adding a different taste and style of problems, helping to break the 200-mark. The most notable latest development was the establishing of Cyprus’ first proposed Font 7C /V9 (”Bahamut”), a steep line going through the roof of a small cave called “Stoma tou Drakou” (following its discovery by Florin Cimpoca). Most recently Cyprus also saw the send of "Pulp Friction", the first proposed 8A (V11) on the island and a sick-looking steep compression line. The hunt for new boulders of various styles and difficulty is still ongoing!

1.5.1. Ineia 109 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.960779, 32.376013

summary

Ineia area, the main wall is Gerakopetra, but other less high crags are scattered all around. Sport, trad, and bouldering are all there. Amazing views, serenity personified.

description

Excellent area with interesting crags and many good sports routes, commanding great views over the Akamas peninsula and Lara bay. Reaches a height of 40m in places and some of the routes require two pitches. Its elevation of around 600m and North/East and North/West facing aspect makes this a good summer choice.

approach

Starting from Ineia, pass through the village heading west. Pass the coop bank and coffee shop on the right, and at the three-way, crossroads take the middle road. At the junction, then bear left and head out of the village. Continue for about 1km (passing a road signposted to Droushia on the right). After the road starts to descend, two small roads appear on the left. The second leads to the army base and is guarded by "strictly no entry" signs. Take the second of the small roads (with the no-entry sign!) and continue for about 500m. Just as the road bends left to head for the camp, take the small track (easily missed) on the right. If you have a good 4-wheel vehicle then you can follow the track to its end at the top of the crag. Alternatively, park at the entrance to the track or continue down the track and park on the left halfway along before it starts to descend.

1.5.2. Droushia 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.971726, 32.395290

summary

Lovely spot with a great view of Polis bay. Nice spread of interesting routes.

description

A small set of routes, easier on the left and harder on the right. There is scope for new easier routes. The left-hand routes face northeast and those on the right face north making this a good summer option. The crag is quick drying.

access issues

Not easy to find. aces North Gets the sun to mid-morning then from mid to late afternoon.

approach

Follow the small road north of Droushia. After about 800m take the right fork in the road, and after another 800m the left. Follow the road downhill for another 400m and the crag will appear on the left. Small parking place just off the road on the left. You may need to supplement this with the google maps ref.

1.5.3. Kalami 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.966786, 32.360116

approach

(34.966776, 32.360122)

1.5.4. Perdikes 0 routes in Boulder

approach

(34.967235, 32.360744)

1.5.5. O Kyklopas 0 routes in Boulder

approach

(34.967982, 32.361213)

1.5.6. Litsopetra 0 routes in Boulder

approach

(34.967972, 32.363215)

1.5.7. Koudoumeni 0 routes in Boulder

approach

(34.960542, 32.367860)

1.5.8. Asprosidhia 0 routes in Boulder

approach

(34.965237, 32.368302)

1.5.9. To Diedro 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.10. Low Rider Bloc 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.11. Leaning Bloc 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.12. O Parperis 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.13. To Trigono tis Koneftis 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.14. Family Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.15. Yin 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.16. Kolokasera Ai Giorgi 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.17. Yang 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.18. Aeroporia Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.19. O Krimmenos 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.20. Kalimera Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.21. Alikou Boulders 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.22. O Erimitis 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.23. Persefone 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.24. UFO 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.25. Koratgi 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.26. Tsunami 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.27. Kerveros 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.28. Triangle 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.29. Pikramygdalo 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.30. Mikres Sympligades 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.31. To Stoma tou Drakou 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.32. Volatzies 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.33. Secret Garden 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.34. Arkham 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.35. Aichmi tou Doratos 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.36. Skepasti 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.37. Mikros Titanas 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.38. Epikalipsi 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.39. Titanas 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.40. The Gymnasium 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.41. Inferno 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.42. Pulp Friction 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.43. Jumbo 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.44. Fontesque Labour 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.45. Ypovryhio 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.46. The Overlook 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.47. The Pope 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.48. O Karaolos 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.49. Didimoi 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.50. Khazad Dum 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.971802, 32.397643

approach

(34.971814, 32.397659)

1.6. Cape Pyla 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 34.950197, 33.846461

description

An abseil descent is recommended due to the arduous nature of the walk in from the west. For routes near The School Teacher you should consider abseiling off two ropes or scrambling down a little, then aiming for the large boulder that sits at the foot of the area. There is no walk in from the east.

The climbs at Pyla are quite long – varying from 20 to 50 metres in height. The rock is generally sound, though as this area is less visited than others the usual warnings about loose rock apply.

You should also note that the huge number of prickly gorse bushes in the gorge can make movement quite difficult.

approach

The climbing at Cape Pyla is to be found in a deep gorge close to the seashore itself. These cliffs are reached through the village of Xylofagou and in order to reach them it is necessary to cross a British Army firing range and park up either in or above the far end of a large, disused quarry. From the central roundabout in Xylofagou, turn off towards the large church. Take a left, then right around the church and turn left at the boutique on the corner. Follow the road straight through the housing estate, under the motorway and then straight through onto the firing range. You will now pass a barrier; if red flags are flying the range is in use and you should turn back. Follow the long track through the firing range past several burnt out tanks. Keep going along the track to the mouth of the quarry and turn right. Go up past the right hand side of the quarry towards the sea, rising uphill. Park at the far corner of the quarry fence. The gorge is down the hill towards the sea. Be careful not to fall in it!

1.7. Cape Greko 61 routes in Area

9 8 7 1 2 4 6 3 5

1 West Crag 2 Greko Crag Left 3 Greko Crag Centre 4 Greko Crag Right 5 Border Crag 6 Tigani Crag 7 Tigani Rocks 8 Snakeskin Crag 9 Ayios Epiphanios

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 34.971825, 34.061763

description

The rock is a coarse limestone. Depending on the time of day it can appear to be almost bright white; later in the day it appears to be orange/brown. It is also open to the elements and is very weathered. As a result it is open to numerous fragile features. There are holes and pockets due to weathering which may not be as safe as they seem. The rock is hollow in places and can be weak. Loose rock is a major problem on some parts of the crags and therefore great care must be taken when climbing and abseiling. These areas do not see enough traffic to clear off the loose rock.

The nature of the rocks is also very steep in places, with bulges and overhangs that are often very smooth and difficult to overcome. However, there are often an abundance of flakes. Some of these are a great advantage, but others are too weak and are likely to break. Needless to say the rock is extremely varied, sometimes smooth and flawless, other times sharp and unrelenting. It has to be said that great care must be taken by all climbers when pulling on holds or placing gear in the rock.

Topos.

approach

Cape Greko is very distinctive and can be seen jutting out into the Mediterranean from a number of miles away.

1.7.1. West Crag 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.962613, 34.064039

1.7.2. Greko Crag Left 30 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.962495, 34.065064

1.7.3. Greko Crag Centre 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 34.961686, 34.065403

1.7.4. Greko Crag Right 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 34.961947, 34.066500

1.7.5. Border Crag 0 routes in Sector

1.7.6. Tigani Crag 0 routes in Crag

1.7.7. Tigani Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.7.8. Snakeskin Crag 0 routes in Crag

1.7.9. Ayios Epiphanios 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.978971, 34.037947

1.8. Girne 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.8.1. Larnaka of Lapithos 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.8.2. Ancient Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:

1.9. Yudi Mountain 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 35.468248, 34.039466

description

This is one of the most picturesque climbing areas of Northern Cyprus. There are two main crags overlooking the nearby sea, the taller Upper Crag about 120m high and lying more toward the west, and the longer Lower Crag, about 60-70m high. The Upper Crag has several large bush-filled ledges and both contain very large caves. There are also several arches, one of which is around 25m high and hosts a trad route on the eastern leg.

approach

The crag is accessible from below by scrambling through brush which is at times very dense and full of thorns (trails are in process). The Lower Crag has a trail running at the base. There is a dirt road running to the top of the Upper Crag and a small concrete hut right on top (this is a useful belay/rappel station).

Beware of blunt-nose vipers when approaching! There are many of them. Also beware of a plant called "rue", it causes painful blistering rash when the affected skin is later exposed to sunlight.

1.10. Agios Iraklidios 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.023415, 33.244068

description

Very harsh and sharp rock.

approach

The crag is located inside the fenced area of the monastery of Agios Eraklidios.

1.11. Limbi 4 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 35.166971, 32.756190

description

A bouldering area with two boulders (approx. 9 and 5 metres high) laying in the middle of a nice flat meadow overlooking the Morphou bay. There is still some loose rock on the west side of the main boulder. The south side offers amazing overhangs. The west side of the small boulder offers some nice challenges.

approach

Turn right in a dirt track on the road from Bademliköy/Loutros to Yesilirmak/Limitis and park at the end of it. Hike up the hill (if there is a concrete bunker on top of it, you'll know you're at the right place), the meadow lays below in front of you. The easier way is to follow the path on the left. You can go straight downhill as well.

1.12. Bahçeli 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 35.339486, 33.629622

1.13. Beşparmak 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 35.291066, 33.473644

description

4 sectors: https://27crags.com/crags/besparmak/cragmap

1.14. Garga Suyu 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.289505, 33.449418

description

Perhaps the best, and most varied, sport climbing on the island. Only a 3-minute approach from the parking. All-year climbing, even if winter can be very chilly. Forget it on high humidity and windless summer days.

approach

From Nicosia, take the direction of Famagusta. After the roundabout with a MASSIVE mosque on the left, keep going and take the left at the next roundabout. From there the road winds up to the pass where sits the Buffavento restaurant, a lovely eating option after climbing, with jaw-dropping views of the Pentadactylos. For Garga follow the road down. 1km down you'll see the profile of Garga up on your left. Keep going a little and park. Follow the track up to the cliff.

1.15. Buffa Wall 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 35.297791, 33.401670

summary

Exposed and really big and impressive crag in the north part of Cyprus.

description

The crag is in the north part of Cyprus. Please keep the climbing during daylight only for keeping the good relationship with the locals.

approach

Parking is in the end of the road. Then a good path leads to the crag. 5 minutes.