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Description

Auckland premier climbing area. Permission needs to be obtained before climbing. You can register here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

There is both trad climbing and bouldering. Here, the bouldering is broken in to sectors, while the trad routes (106!) are laid out here.

Access issues inherited from Mt. Eden Quarry

To climb at the quarry, permission must be obtained from the NZAC. Fortunately, this is simple enough, just sign up online here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

Helmets must be worn at all times, including when belaying or bouldering.

Approach

To reach the Long Side from the school’s main gates on Mountain Road, follow the signs to the Centennial Theatre complex and take the road that leads down to the left of the theatre to the lower playing fields — and the crag.

There is NO FOOT ACCESS TO THE CLIFF TOP. You need to be able to lead on trad gear to access many top anchors, though a few pull-cords are provided to pull your rope through the anchors for top-roping - these generally also give access to adjacent routes from the same anchor. Fixed chains may be used to traverse with care from the top of Graveyard Groove to the top of Sneakeasy.

Descent Notes

All routes have nearby anchors for abseiling or lowering, These may be large steel rings, rap anchors, chains with D-shackles, or just chains.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The crack line 2m left of False Induction.

2

The line with 2 bolts, if you can find them among the overgrowth.

3

Climb left-facing corner to the ledge. Generally climbed to gain access to the anchors for the next two routes.

4
23 Bop Gun Boulder

Climb the overhanging arete to the ledge.

FA: Charlie Creese (solo), 1981

5
20 * Brain Damage Trad

Climb the right-facing corner to the ledge. A hold fell off some time ago so the route may be a tad harder than it once was.

FA: Len Gillman, 1977

6
24 Dekcuf Trad

The steep groove and thin crack. The name is an anagram.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1977

7
24 * The Raven Trad

The steep left-trending crack and groove. Considered a "yardstick" 24 by some.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

8
18 ** Deffust Trad

Climb the low arete to reach the overhanging finger crack, continue up this to the ledge. Watch out for loose rock below the anchor. Once graded 20, this is now a fairly pumpy 18. Another anagram...

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

9

The thin overhanging crack through the buttress. Strenuous and demanding to protect.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1977

10

From the top of the crack continue up the buttress with one bolt.

FA: David Nepia, 1994

11
25 Hear No Evil Mixed 2

After the start of Morning Glory Eliminate, move left across the ear-shaped slab with 2 bolts.

FA: Alex Palman, 1989

12

The original Morning Glory buttress was demolished by the school when it began to separate from the face, leaving this and the next four routes mere shadows of their former selves. Climb the steep groove and thin crack.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1986

13

An awkward mantle leads to easier climbing up the groove and crack.

FA: Alex Palman, 1985

14

Climb direct to the Moral Dilemma ledge or traverse in from the start of Morning Glory Eliminate (shown), step right to the next ledge, then up and left to the ramp leading to the top groove of Moral Dilemma.

FA: Geoff Bates, 1985

15

The groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to the ledge on the right, then the arete above.

FA: Peter Dickson (solo), 1985

16

Up the groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to a ledge on the right, then up and left of the old fixed ring piton to broken ledges. Tend rightwards up thin cracks to finish.

FA: Bryan Moore, 1985

17

Start up the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, past the old fixed ring piton (treat this with extreme suspicion) and up the wide crack above.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1985

18

Climb the buttress left of Supergroove, past the ancient fixed ring piton to ledges, finish up Kamikaze Crack or Shitbox Klingons.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1987

19
26 * Supergroove Mixed 15m, 1

A NZ classic - they didn't come any harder than this in 1976. A bouldery start, to difficult moves past a bolt, then strenuous bridging to the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1976

20

The overhung groove right of Supergroove to a bolt at half height, then follow the crack above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

21

Diagonally up the overhanging wall, into the peapod groove above and an easing exit.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

22
27 Faulty Logic Mixed 2

The wall with 2 bolts straight up from the start of Blam Blam Blam.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

23

Start from the pointy block and climb the thin crack and face past a drill hole.

FA: Bolke Water, 1992

24

From the pointy block, climb the left-leaning thin crack and jam the notch to reach the shattered ledge, then proceed up the slab with the crack at left. Apparently you do a "bigglesworth" somewhere but nobody has any idea what that means...

FA: Grant Davidson, 1980

25

Climb the deep groove to good stances, then straight up and exit through the gap between the blocks at top.

FA: Bryan Moore, 1984

26

Climb the buttress between Graveyard Groove and Dalrymples Groove. 2 bolts, not much other pro that isn't pretty crap.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1984

27

The deep black V groove. Dalrymple is Rick McGregor's middle name...

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

28
23 Diddely Dick Mixed 2

Climb the buttress with 2 bolts between Dalrymple's Groove and Koruba.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

29
19 * Koruba Mixed 3

A bridging classic that saw some long falls before the single piton at half height was replaced by 3 bolts. Not quite a sport climb - a good wire protects the moves up to the first bolt.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

30
18 Nutless Mixed 2

Climb the arete with 2 bolts between Koruba and Nutcracker, without using the cracks either side.

FA: Peter Dickson (solo), 1985

31
17 Nutcracker Trad

Boulder direct to the ledge, or traverse in from the left (16). Then up the blocky groove and exit to a chain hidden in the bushes above. Looks easy but the top can be tricky and this is perhaps not ideal as your first lead on gear at the long side if you are not solid at the grade.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

32
25 Thunderpussy Mixed 2

Just climb the buttress between Nutcracker and Green Groove Eliminate.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1990

33

Continue up the left hand thin crack from the start of Green Groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

34
21 Green Groove Trad

Up the groove to the big blast hole and wobbly block, then move right into the upper groove.

FA: Robbie McBirney (solo), 1974

35
24 Wild Gravity Sport 3

Start as for Sneakeasy, move back left at the second bolt, then direct up the buttress.

FA: Alex Palman, 1987

36

Start as for Sneakeasy, stay left of the arete, finish up Wild Gravity.

37
23 * Sneakeasy Sport 3

A bouldery start and move right past a bolt to a small ledge leads to delicate face climbing.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1987

38
30 Zillmerised Boulder

Climb the arete below the Sneakeasy ledge.

FA: Roland Foster (solo), 1993

39
23 * Bodysnatcher Trad

Climb the corner past the small overhang, move left a little then back into the peapod groove. Continue over the bulge to the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

40

Climb Bodysnatcher until you can move into the corner on the right. A few blocks were removed retrospectively before this route was mostly superseded by Pig Igneous.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

41
27 * Pig Igneous Sport 3

A fantastic route combining a powerful bouldery bottom section with an extremely technical second half and an 'exciting' runout finish. Gear can be placed if wanted.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1989

42
27 Sweat Mixed 1

Start up Pig Igneous, but move right at the first bolt and climb the shallow groove above.

FA: Dave Vass, 1981

43
26 * Heat Mixed 2

Climb the overhung crack or buttress past a bolt and proceed up the groove above. A must-do.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

44
25 * Legs This Wide Mixed 2

The shallow bulging grooves to the right of Heat. Take small wires.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

45
26 * Sample The Dog Mixed 4

Follow the groove left of Wired all the way.

FA: Luke Newnham

46
24 Wired Trad

Climb to the broken ledges from the left, move back right and up the groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

47
23 Black Stump Trad

Climb to the broken ledges from the right, then up the thin crack directly above.

FA: Cliff Smith (2 points of aid), 1974

FFA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

48
23 The Grip Goes On Mixed 1

Straight up the shallow groove past the bolt to ledges at the top.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

49

Up the narrow groove on the left to the ledge of Gothic Groove, then move back left into the groove and up to rejoin Gothic Groove at the finish.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1986

50

Climb the broken wall to a comfy ledge, then bridge up the groove. Move left at the horizontal break into the adjacent groove (crux), up to ledges and left to the anchors.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1975

51
25 Roo Squeaks Trad

The direct finish to Gothic Groove.

FA: Alex Palman, 1987

52
22 Fuck-Knuckle Trad

Climb to the black shattered ledge, then up the crack with a knuckle-fucking flare through the bulge above. Continue up, moving right toward Silver Airman at the top.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

53

Either: traverse in to the ledge from the right (16, see start of Smash And Grab), climb the right-hand groove (17, see start of Rebuilding Oscar), climb the face (17, shown) or climb the left-hand groove (21). From the ledge bridge up the main groove, past a drill hole (a triple sling will protect this nicely), and over the blocks at the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

54
25 Rebuilding Oscar Mixed 2

From the Silver Airman ledge, climb the right-hand buttress. The two bolts were retrospectively placed.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1986

55
25 Smash And Grab Mixed 1

The overhung groove above the right-hand start of Silver Airman. Climb past a bolt, move right at the top.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

56
26 Wendy Kroy Mixed 1

"The unpleasant way to do Sheerlux". If you get that joke you are showing your age.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1995

57
24 * Sheerlux Trad

Classic. Climb the groove, at the roof arrange good protection and move right onto the wall, finishing rightwards beside the overhanging corner above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

58
24 Porkland Mixed 1

Climb the wide groove past a bolt then straight up the wall.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

59
23 Naughty But Nice Mixed 1

Up the wide groove past the bolt to a good hold, then move right, finishing up the crack of Maisola Party to the block on top of Momrath.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1980

60
28 Down To Earth Mixed 1

The groove between Porkland and Maisola Party. Groundfall potential and stupid first bolt placement.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1992

61

Follow the thin crack left of Momrath via a small peapod to the top of the block.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

62
19 Momrath Trad

A bouldery start gets you up into the groove, moving left at the block. Continue leftwards and up over ledges to the Sheerlux anchors. An alternate finish (21) moves right at the top of the groove, up to the Load It For Me anchors.

63

Classic. Up the right-hand buttress of Momrath, following the thin crack with good protection.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1980

64

Mostly sport but placing some wires at the top may be a good idea...

65
25 Ugly Murmurs Trad
66
19 ** Samarcand Trad
67
29 Zorn's Lemma Mixed 3
70
18 Transvaal Trad
71
22 * Banshee Trad
73
74
19 ** Kaloo Kalay Trad

Value for money, with 3 cruxes. Climb the low groove to the ledge (crux 1). From the ledge, jam or bridge over the slight bulge (crux 2) and continue up the easier angle slab/crack/groove combination above. Then climb through the bulge and crack (crux 3) to the top. Deserves a star.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1973

75
28 Plumley Walker Boulder
77
24 Picture This Trad
78
26 Studio 54 Trad
79
80
21 * Thimblerigger Trad 15m

Climb the groove and crack to a ledge on the right, then move left to another ledge. Looks easier than it is.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1975

81
22 Barracuda Trad

Climb to the ledge then up the thin crack and over the bulge on the large flake. Originally 24, downgraded to 22 fairly recently for some reason.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

82
18 ** Soliloquy Trad 15m

Climb the crack past a flare to a broken ledge (crux), then up past another to the top of the large flake, finishing rightwards through a notch. A well protected classic - gym climbers note it helps if you can jam!

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

83

The peaked arch right of Soliloquy. Climb the thin crack until you can step left to ledges on Soliloquy, move right again and continue up the crack to the top of the arch.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

84
26 Bad Karma Trad

The corner and arete. Some long reaches needed.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

85

Climb the corner crack, finishing over blocks above.

FFA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

86

Up the twin corners to the black ledge. Abseil from the anchor at half-height or finish as for Jams O'Donnell or Melquiades.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

87

Climb the right-hand corner only.

FA: Alex Palman, 1988

88
24 * Melquiades Mixed 1

Tricky moves up an overhanging wall to the blast hole and ledge on the left, then up the groove above.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1975

89

The direct finish to Melquiades, up the right-hand groove and thin crack with a bolt (but take small wires too).

FA: Luke Newnham, 1989

90
27 Zephania Boulder
91
25 Busted Bicycle Mixed 1
92
24 Splatter Trad
95
96
23 * Snatchbender Mixed 15m, 2
97
23 Bad Behaviour Mixed 1
100
19 ** Bandersnatch Trad 12m

Climb to the ledge at the bottom of the corner and crack. Proceed up past the blast hole on the left, then tend right onto the arete and face, up to the ledge. This route has also been climbed entirely using the arete, with the crack for protection only (22). It is possible to traverse carefully to the anchors of Bad Behaviour from the top of this, but beware of loose rock above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

101
24 Spanish Moon Trad
102
27 * Pet Cemetery Mixed 2
104
105
19 Orangutang Trad
107
21 Badfinger Trad
108
109
21 It Man Trad

Areas

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