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Climbing in this area is closed.



Auckland premier climbing area. There is both trad climbing and bouldering. Here, the bouldering is broken in to sectors, while the trad routes (106!) are laid out here.

Access issues inherited from Mt. Eden Quarry (CLOSED)

The Long Side and Short Side are both CLOSED until further notice. DO NOT CLIMB.


To reach the Long Side from the school’s main gates on Mountain Road, follow the signs to the Centennial Theatre complex and take the road that leads down to the left of the theatre to the lower playing fields — and the crag.

There is NO FOOT ACCESS TO THE CLIFF TOP. You need to be able to lead on trad gear to access many top anchors, though a few pull-cords are provided to pull your rope through the anchors for top-roping - these generally also give access to adjacent routes from the same anchor. Fixed chains may be used to traverse with care from the top of Graveyard Groove to the top of Sneakeasy.

Descent notes

All routes have nearby anchors for abseiling or lowering, These may be large steel rings, rap anchors, chains with D-shackles, or just chains.


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Grade Route

The crack line 2m left of False Induction.

The line with 2 bolts, if you can find them among the overgrowth.

Climb the left-facing corner. Originally continued up the corner crack and through what is now very overgrown territory, nowadays just climbed to the ledge on the right. Generally climbed to gain access to the anchors for the next two routes.

Climb the overhanging arete to the ledge.

FA: Charlie Creese (solo), 1981

Climb the right-facing corner to the ledge. A hold fell off some time ago so the route may be a tad harder than it once was.

FA: Len Gillman, 1977

The steep groove and thin crack. The name is an anagram.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1977

The steep left-trending crack and groove. Considered a "yardstick" 24 by some.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

Climb the low arete to reach the overhanging finger crack, continue up this to the ledge. Watch out for loose rock below the anchor. Once graded 20, this is now a fairly pumpy 18. Another anagram...

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

The thin overhanging crack through the buttress. Strenuous and demanding to protect.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1977

From the top of the crack continue up the buttress with one bolt.

FA: David Nepia, 1994

After the start of Morning Glory Eliminate, move left across the ear-shaped slab with 2 bolts.

FA: Alex Palman, 1989

The original Morning Glory buttress was demolished by the school when it began to separate from the face, leaving this and the next four routes mere shadows of their former selves. Climb the steep groove and thin crack.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1986

An awkward mantle leads to easier climbing up the groove and crack.

FA: Alex Palman, 1985

Climb direct to the Moral Dilemma ledge or traverse in from the start of Morning Glory Eliminate (shown), step right to the next ledge, then up and left to the ramp leading to the top groove of Moral Dilemma.

FA: Geoff Bates, 1985

The groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to the ledge on the right, then the arete above.

FA: Peter Dickson (solo), 1985

Up the groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to a ledge on the right, then up and left of the old fixed ring piton to broken ledges. Tend rightwards up thin cracks to finish.

FA: Bryan Moore, 1985

Start up the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, past the old fixed ring piton (treat this with extreme suspicion) and up the wide crack above.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1985

Climb the buttress left of Supergroove, past the ancient fixed ring piton to ledges, finish up Kamikaze Crack or Shitbox Klingons.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1987

A NZ classic - they didn't come any harder than this in 1976. A bouldery start, to difficult moves past a bolt, then strenuous bridging to the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1976

The overhung groove right of Supergroove to a bolt at half height, then follow the crack above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

Diagonally up the overhanging wall, into the peapod groove above and an easing exit.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

The wall with 2 bolts straight up from the start of Blam Blam Blam.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

Start from the pointy block and climb the thin crack and face past a drill hole.

FA: Bolke Water, 1992

From the pointy block, climb the left-leaning thin crack and jam the notch to reach the shattered ledge, then proceed up the slab with the crack at left. Apparently you do a "bigglesworth" somewhere but nobody has any idea what that means...

FA: Grant Davidson, 1980

Climb the deep groove to good stances, then straight up and exit through the gap between the blocks at top.

FA: Bryan Moore, 1984

Climb the buttress between Graveyard Groove and Dalrymples Groove. 2 bolts, not much other pro that isn't pretty crap.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1984

The deep black V groove. Dalrymple is Rick McGregor's middle name...

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

Climb the buttress with 2 bolts between Dalrymple's Groove and Koruba.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

A bridging classic that saw some long falls before the single piton at half height was replaced by 3 bolts. Not quite a sport climb - a good wire protects the moves up to the first bolt.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

Climb the arete with 2 bolts between Koruba and Nutcracker, without using the cracks either side.

FA: Peter Dickson (solo), 1985

Boulder direct to the ledge, or traverse in from the left (16). Then up the blocky groove and exit to a chain hidden in the bushes above. Looks easy but the top can be tricky and this is perhaps not ideal as your first lead on gear at the long side if you are not solid at the grade.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

Just climb the buttress between Nutcracker and Green Groove Eliminate.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1990

Continue up the left hand thin crack from the start of Green Groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

Up the groove to the big blast hole and wobbly block, then move right into the upper groove.

FA: Robbie McBirney (solo), 1974

Start as for Sneakeasy, move back left at the second bolt, then direct up the buttress.

FA: Alex Palman, 1987

Start as for Sneakeasy, stay left of the arete, finish up Wild Gravity.

A bouldery start and move right past a bolt to a small ledge leads to delicate face climbing.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1987

Climb the arete below the Sneakeasy ledge.

FA: Roland Foster (solo), 1993

Climb the corner past the small overhang, move left a little then back into the peapod groove. Continue over the bulge to the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

Climb Bodysnatcher until you can move into the corner on the right. A few blocks were removed retrospectively before this route was mostly superseded by Pig Igneous.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

A fantastic route combining a powerful bouldery bottom section with an extremely technical second half and an 'exciting' runout finish. Gear can be placed if wanted.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1989

Start up Pig Igneous, but move right at the first bolt and climb the shallow groove above.

FA: Dave Vass, 1981

Climb the overhung crack or buttress past a bolt and proceed up the groove above. A must-do.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

The shallow bulging grooves to the right of Heat. Take small wires.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

Follow the groove left of Wired all the way.

FA: Luke Newnham

Climb to the broken ledges from the left, move back right and up the groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

Climb to the broken ledges from the right, then up the thin crack directly above.

FA: Cliff Smith (2 points of aid), 1974

FFA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

Straight up the shallow groove past the bolt to ledges at the top.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

Up the narrow groove on the left to the ledge of Gothic Groove, then move back left into the groove and up to rejoin Gothic Groove at the finish.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1986

Climb the broken wall to a comfy ledge, then bridge up the groove. Move left at the horizontal break into the adjacent groove (crux), up to ledges and left to the anchors.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1975

The direct finish to Gothic Groove.

FA: Alex Palman, 1987

Climb to the black shattered ledge, then up the crack with a knuckle-fucking flare through the bulge above. Continue up, moving right toward Silver Airman at the top.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

Either: traverse in to the ledge from the right (16, see start of Smash And Grab), climb the right-hand groove (17, see start of Rebuilding Oscar), climb the face (17, shown) or climb the left-hand groove (21). From the ledge bridge up the main groove, past a drill hole (a triple sling will protect this nicely), and over the blocks at the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

From the Silver Airman ledge, climb the right-hand buttress. The two bolts were retrospectively placed.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1986

The overhung groove above the right-hand start of Silver Airman. Climb past a bolt, move right at the top.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

"The unpleasant way to do Sheerlux". If you get that joke you are showing your age.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1995

Classic. Climb the groove, at the roof arrange good protection and move right onto the wall, finishing rightwards beside the overhanging corner above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

Climb the wide groove past a bolt then straight up the wall.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

Up the wide groove past the bolt to a good hold, then move right, finishing up the crack of Maisola Party to the block on top of Momrath.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1980

The groove between Porkland and Maisola Party. Groundfall potential and stupid first bolt placement.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1992

Follow the thin crack left of Momrath via a small peapod to the top of the block.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

A bouldery start gets you up into the groove, moving left at the block. Continue leftwards and up over ledges to the Sheerlux anchors. An alternate finish (21) moves right at the top of the groove, up to the Load It For Me anchors.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

Classic. Up the right-hand buttress of Momrath, following the thin crack with good protection.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1980

Mostly sport but placing some wires at the top may be a good idea...

FA: Rick McGregor, 1985

The left-hand short corner with overhanging groove and crack.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1980

The deep fire-blackened corner and crack, to the anchor on top of the ledge at halfway. For an extension, continue upwards and right from there at about grade 15 to the rap rings above, or up and left to the anchor above Load It For Me.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1975

The bolted groove and face. Go for it.

FA: Roland Foster, 1992

Climb the corner to the left hand edge of the ledge, then up the buttress above, moving left at the top.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

Climb either of the grooves to the ledge (right hand groove is easiest), bridge up and pull onto the lip above the roof, then balancy moves up the face, arete and shallow right hand groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

Climb the right-hand start of Revenge Of The Lawn until you can traverse right to the first ledge of Kaloo Kalay. Climb any of the grooves to the right of that to reach the next set of ledges, then continue right and up to the ledge at the top of Principles Of Lust. Move up and across the right-leaning slab with 1 old bolt, then traverse carefully across the broken scoria at top, finishing at the Soliloquy anchor. Give it a clean on the way. Phew. Double ropes highly recommended.

FA: Robert Staveley Parker, 1978

Climb the thin crack and slab. It will help to have skinny fingers.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

The wall between Banshee and Kaloo Kalay, following the thin crack then past 2 drill holes, until forced left near the top of Banshee. The ledge on Kaloo Kalay is out.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

Absolutely silly. Climb the arete only, between Stem The Evil Tide and Kaloo Kalay.

FA: Alex Palman, 1988

Value for money, with 3 cruxes. Climb the low groove to the ledge (crux 1). From the ledge, jam or bridge over the slight bulge (crux 2) and continue up the easier angle slab/crack/groove combination above. Then climb through the bulge and crack (crux 3) to the top. Deserves a star.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1973

The arete. Painful holds, nasty plunge.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1991

Climb the initial groove of Kaloo Kalay, then step right and up the right-hand groove above. Finish up left-leaning ramps above. Feel free to clean it.

FA: Grant Davidson, 1982

Climb the corner to broken ledges, with poor protection. Continue up the corner above to the ledges, exiting left or right.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1982

Beautiful sequins! Climb the buttress to the ledge.

FA: Charlie Creese (solo), 1981

Climb the groove until you can cross left and establish yourself on the face and arete. Continue up the arete and face above. Be careful clipping the second bolt, the first one is low and there is groundfall potential if clipping high.

FA: John van der Werff, 1994

Climb the groove and crack to a ledge on the right, then move left to another ledge. Looks easier than it is.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1975

Climb to the ledge then up the thin crack and over the bulge on the large flake. Originally 24, downgraded to 22 fairly recently for some reason.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

Climb the crack past a flare to a broken ledge (crux), then up past another to the top of the large flake, finishing rightwards through a notch. A well protected classic - gym climbers note it helps if you can jam!

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

The peaked arch right of Soliloquy. Climb the thin crack until you can step left to ledges on Soliloquy, move right again and continue up the crack to the top of the arch.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

The corner and arete. Some long reaches needed.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

Climb the corner crack, finishing over blocks above.

FFA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

Up the twin corners to the black ledge. Abseil from the anchor at half-height or finish as for Jams O'Donnell or Melquiades.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

Climb the right-hand corner only.

FA: Alex Palman, 1988

Tricky moves up an overhanging wall to the blast hole and ledge on the left, then up the groove above.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1975

The direct finish to Melquiades, up the right-hand groove and thin crack with a bolt (but take small wires too).

FA: Luke Newnham, 1989

Climb directly up the arete into the square groove to meet the middle section of Snatchbender.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

Up over ledges into the groove, then bridge and balance your way to its apex on the right, pulling through the overhang to a wall pocket and bolt. Step left into the square groove, up to the overhang, right to the ledge on top of the block. Pull over the final bulge to finish.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

The most direct version of Snatchbender. Instead of stepping left, pull over the bulge and up onto the block.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1989

Climb the wall between Bad Behaviour and Bandersnatch, then right to the thin crack and hole. Move left after the 4th bolt and pull through the bulge, finishing up Bad Behaviour. Retrobolted.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

Keep going straight up instead of moving left. Run out.

FA: Ton Snelder, 1994

Climb to the ledge at the bottom of the corner and crack. Proceed up past the blast hole on the left, then tend right onto the arete and face, up to the ledge. This route has also been climbed entirely using the arete, with the crack for protection only (22). It is possible to traverse carefully to the anchors of Bad Behaviour or Silver Surfer / Orangutang from the top of this, but beware of loose rock above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

Climb the right-hand arête, using the crack solely for protection.

Levitate up the shallow corner and very thin crack right of Bandersnatch. Protection is tiny and hard to place.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

The serrated crack left of the Orangutang corner. Dynamic and bold?

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

Hard start direct into the groove (the ledge on the right is out). Climb the crack to the hanging block then exit left to the anchor above Silver Surfer. Alternately, move right and up the top groove and bulge of Badfinger.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1973

Climb the right-hand arete of Orangutang without using the cracks on either side.

FA: Hunter Johnson, 1989

Up the corner above the ledge right of Orangutang to gain the higher ledge on the right (crux). Continue direct up the wide groove and bulge above. Protection is there but may be difficult to place.

FA: Jim Sawers, 1974

FFA: Robbie McBirney, 1975

The short corner further right of Badfinger, one stage higher up the ledges. This now has an electrical control pipe for the field sprinklers running down it, and is bound to be dirty and overgrown. If you really must climb it, be very careful not to damage the pipe. The first ascent is contested.

A short boulder problem that made it into the old guides because it had a name. The thin crack at ground level about 5m right of the Orangutang corner. There is now a stout pine tree growing right in front of it, which may make spotting tricky and falling off problematic.

FA: Marty Beare, 1982


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