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Description

Auckland premier climbing area. Please note that due to rock fall, several sections may be closed. Permission needs to be obtained before climbing. You can register here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

There is both trad climbing and bouldering. Here, the bouldering is broken in to sectors, while the trad routes (106!) are laid out here.

Access issues inherited from Mt. Eden Quarry

To climb at the quarry, permission must be obtained from the NZAC. Fortunately, this is simple enough, just sign up online here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

Helmets must be worn at all times, including when bouldering.

Approach

To reach the Long Side from the school’s main gates on Mountain Road, follow the signs to the Centennial Theatre complex and take the road that leads down to the left of the theatre to the lower playing fields — and the crag. Use the track from the end of the fence at the far right-hand end to get to the top of the cliff. Chains lead down from the top fence to abseil anchors above Graveyard Groove, Nutcracker and Silver Airman

Routes

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Grade Route
4
23 Bop Gun Trad
5
20 Brain Damage Trad
6
24 Dekcuff Trad
7
24 * The Raven Trad
8
19 ** Deffust Trad
11
14
17
18
19
26 * Supergroove Trad 15m
22
27 Faulty Logic Trad
28
23 Diddely Dick Trad
29
19 Koruba Trad
30
18 Nutless Trad
31
17 Nutcracker Trad
32
25 Thunderpussy Trad
34
21 Green Groove Trad
35
24 Wild Gravity Sport 3
36
23 * Sneakeasy Sport 3

A thuggy start leads to delicate face climbing.

37
30 Zillmerised Trad
38
23 * Bodysnatcher Trad
39
40
27 * Pig Igneous Sport 3

A fantastic route combining a powerful bouldery bottom section with an extremely technical second half and an 'exciting' runout finish. (gear can be placed if wanted)

41
27 Sweat Trad
42
26 * Heat Trad
43
44
45
24 Wired Trad
46
23 Black Stump Trad
49
50
25 Roo Squeaks Trad
51
22 Fuck-Knuckle Trad
52
54
55
26 Wendy Kroy Trad
56
24 * Sheerlux Trad
58
24 Porkland Trad
59
60
61
19 Momrath Trad
62
63

Mostly sport but placing some wires at the top may be a good idea...

64
25 Ugly Murmurs Trad
65
19 Samarcand Trad
66
29 Zorn's Lemma Trad
69
18 Transvaal Trad
70
22 * Banshee Trad
73
19 Kaloo Kalay Trad
74
76
24 Picture This Trad
77
26 Studio 54 Trad
79
21 * Thimblerigger Trad 15m
80
24 Barracuda Trad
81
18 ** Soliloquy Trad 15m
83
26 Bad Karma Trad
86
24 * Melquiades Trad
88
27 Zephania Trad
89
90
24 Splatter Trad
93
23 * Snatchbender Trad 15m
94
97
19 ** Bandersnatch Trad 12m
98
24 Spanish Moon Trad
99
27 * Pet Cemetery Trad
101
102
19 Orangutang Trad
104
21 Badfinger Trad
105
106
21 It Man Trad

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades