Long Side Rock climbing177 routes in cliff
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Auckland premier climbing area. Permission needs to be obtained before climbing. You can register here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html
There is both trad climbing and bouldering. Here, the bouldering is broken in to sectors, while the trad routes (106!) are laid out here.
Access issues inherited from Mt. Eden Quarry
The short side is temporarily CLOSED - see its description for details. The long side remains open, but climbing during school hours (8am-3pm Mon-Fri) is currently prohibited.
To climb at the quarry, permission must be obtained from the NZAC. Fortunately, this is simple enough, just sign up online here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html
Helmets must be worn at all times, including when belaying or bouldering.
To reach the Long Side from the school’s main gates on Mountain Road, follow the signs to the Centennial Theatre complex and take the road that leads down to the left of the theatre to the lower playing fields — and the crag.
There is NO FOOT ACCESS TO THE CLIFF TOP. You need to be able to lead on trad gear to access many top anchors, though a few pull-cords are provided to pull your rope through the anchors for top-roping - these generally also give access to adjacent routes from the same anchor. Fixed chains may be used to traverse with care from the top of Graveyard Groove to the top of Sneakeasy.
All routes have nearby anchors for abseiling or lowering, These may be large steel rings, rap anchors, chains with D-shackles, or just chains.
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