Topo #8167 - Left end to Desolation Angel

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Casual Regression

The crack line 2m left of False Induction.

15 Trad Unlink route
2 False Induction

The line with 2 bolts, if you can find them among the overgrowth.

16 Trad Unlink route
3 Cliff Smith's Corner

Climb the left-facing corner. Originally continued up the corner crack and through what is now very overgrown territory, nowadays just climbed to the ledge on the right. Generally climbed to gain access to the anchors for the next two routes.

16 Trad Unlink route
4 Bop Gun

Climb the overhanging arete to the ledge.

23 Boulder Unlink route
5 Brain Damage

Climb the right-facing corner to the ledge. A hold fell off some time ago so the route may be a tad harder than it once was.

20 Trad Unlink route
6 Dekcuf

The steep groove and thin crack. The name is an anagram.

24 Trad Unlink route
7 * The Raven

The steep left-trending crack and groove. Considered a "yardstick" 24 by some.

24 Trad Unlink route
8 ** Deffust

Climb the low arete to reach the overhanging finger crack, continue up this to the ledge. Watch out for loose rock below the anchor. Once graded 20, this is now a fairly pumpy 18. Another anagram...

18 Trad Unlink route
9 Desolation Angel

The thin overhanging crack through the buttress. Strenuous and demanding to protect.

24 Trad Unlink route
10 Desolation Angel Direct Finish

From the top of the crack continue up the buttress with one bolt.

26 Mixed 1 Unlink route

Topo #8169 - Hear No Evil to Nutcracker

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Route Grade Popularity Style
11 Hear No Evil

After the start of Morning Glory Eliminate, move left across the ear-shaped slab with 2 bolts.

25 Mixed 2 Unlink route
12 Morning Glory Eliminate

The original Morning Glory buttress was demolished by the school when it began to separate from the face, leaving this and the next four routes mere shadows of their former selves. Climb the steep groove and thin crack.

25 Trad Unlink route
13 Moral Dilemma

An awkward mantle leads to easier climbing up the groove and crack.

18 Trad Unlink route
14 Playing Chicken

Climb direct to the Moral Dilemma ledge or traverse in from the start of Morning Glory Eliminate (shown), step right to the next ledge, then up and left to the ramp leading to the top groove of Moral Dilemma.

18 Trad Unlink route
15 Tears For Fears

The groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to the ledge on the right, then the arete above.

19 Trad Unlink route
16 Shitbox Klingons

Up the groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to a ledge on the right, then up and left of the old fixed ring piton to broken ledges. Tend rightwards up thin cracks to finish.

20 Trad Unlink route
17 Kamikaze Krack

Start up the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, past the old fixed ring piton (treat this with extreme suspicion) and up the wide crack above.

20 Trad Unlink route
18 Yuppie Floosie

Climb the buttress left of Supergroove, past the ancient fixed ring piton to ledges, finish up Kamikaze Crack or Shitbox Klingons.

26 Trad Unlink route
19 * Supergroove

A NZ classic - they didn't come any harder than this in 1976. A bouldery start, to difficult moves past a bolt, then strenuous bridging to the top.

26 Mixed 15m, 1 Unlink route
20 * Perennial Pipedreams

The overhung groove right of Supergroove to a bolt at half height, then follow the crack above.

26 Trad Unlink route
21 * Blam, Blam, Blam

Diagonally up the overhanging wall, into the peapod groove above and an easing exit.

27 Trad Unlink route
22 Faulty Logic

The wall with 2 bolts straight up from the start of Blam Blam Blam.

27 Mixed 2 Unlink route
23 Effort, Money And Time

Start from the pointy block and climb the thin crack and face past a drill hole.

24 Trad Unlink route
24 Biggles Flies West

From the pointy block, climb the left-leaning thin crack and jam the notch to reach the shattered ledge, then proceed up the slab with the crack at left. Apparently you do a "bigglesworth" somewhere but nobody has any idea what that means...

21 Trad Unlink route
25 * Graveyard Groove

Climb the deep groove to good stances, then straight up and exit through the gap between the blocks at top.

17 Trad Unlink route
26 Biggles Sucks A Kumara

Climb the buttress between Graveyard Groove and Dalrymples Groove. 2 bolts, not much other pro that isn't pretty crap.

22 Sport 2 Unlink route
27 Dalrymple's Groove

The deep black V groove. Dalrymple is Rick McGregor's middle name...

18 Trad Unlink route
28 Diddely Dick

Climb the buttress with 2 bolts between Dalrymple's Groove and Koruba.

23 Mixed 2 Unlink route
29 * Koruba

A bridging classic that saw some long falls before the single piton at half height was replaced by 3 bolts. Not quite a sport climb - a good wire protects the moves up to the first bolt.

19 Mixed 3 Unlink route
30 Nutless

Climb the arete with 2 bolts between Koruba and Nutcracker, without using the cracks either side.

18 Mixed 2 Unlink route
31 Nutcracker

Boulder direct to the ledge, or traverse in from the left (16). Then up the blocky groove and exit to a chain hidden in the bushes above. Looks easy but the top can be tricky and this is perhaps not ideal as your first lead on gear at the long side if you are not solid at the grade.

17 Trad Unlink route

Topo #8170 - Thunderpussy to Roo Squeaks

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Route Grade Popularity Style
32 Thunderpussy

Just climb the buttress between Nutcracker and Green Groove Eliminate.

25 Mixed 2 Unlink route
33 Green Groove Eliminate

Continue up the left hand thin crack from the start of Green Groove.

23 Trad Unlink route
34 Green Groove

Up the groove to the big blast hole and wobbly block, then move right into the upper groove.

21 Trad Unlink route
35 Wild Gravity

Start as for Sneakeasy, move back left at the second bolt, then direct up the buttress.

24 Sport 3 Unlink route
36 Wild Gravity Direct

Start as for Sneakeasy, stay left of the arete, finish up Wild Gravity.

26 Sport 3 Unlink route
37 Sneakeasy

A bouldery start and move right past a bolt to a small ledge leads to delicate face climbing.

23 Sport 3 Unlink route
38 Zillmerised

Climb the arete below the Sneakeasy ledge.

30 Boulder Unlink route
39 * Bodysnatcher

Climb the corner past the small overhang, move left a little then back into the peapod groove. Continue over the bulge to the top.

23 Trad Unlink route
40 Boys On Bikes

Climb Bodysnatcher until you can move into the corner on the right. A few blocks were removed retrospectively before this route was mostly superseded by Pig Igneous.

26 Trad Unlink route
41 * Pig Igneous

A fantastic route combining a powerful bouldery bottom section with an extremely technical second half and an 'exciting' runout finish. Gear can be placed if wanted.

27 Sport 3 Unlink route
42 Sweat

Start up Pig Igneous, but move right at the first bolt and climb the shallow groove above.

27 Mixed 1 Unlink route
43 * Heat

Climb the overhung crack or buttress past a bolt and proceed up the groove above. A must-do.

26 Mixed 2 Unlink route
44 * Legs This Wide

The shallow bulging grooves to the right of Heat. Take small wires.

25 Mixed 2 Unlink route
45 * Sample The Dog

Follow the groove left of Wired all the way.

26 Mixed 4 Unlink route
46 Wired

Climb to the broken ledges from the left, move back right and up the groove.

24 Trad Unlink route
47 Black Stump

Climb to the broken ledges from the right, then up the thin crack directly above.

23 Trad Unlink route
48 The Grip Goes On

Straight up the shallow groove past the bolt to ledges at the top.

23 Mixed 1 Unlink route
49 The Ghost Who Walks

Up the narrow groove on the left to the ledge of Gothic Groove, then move back left into the groove and up to rejoin Gothic Groove at the finish.

26 Mixed 1 Unlink route
50 * Gothic Groove

Climb the broken wall to a comfy ledge, then bridge up the groove. Move left at the horizontal break into the adjacent groove (crux), up to ledges and left to the anchors.

22 Trad Unlink route
51 Roo Squeaks

The direct finish to Gothic Groove.

25 Trad Unlink route

Topo #8171 - Fuck-Knuckle to Load It For Me

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Route Grade Popularity Style
52 Fuck-Knuckle

Climb to the black shattered ledge, then up the crack with a knuckle-fucking flare through the bulge above. Continue up, moving right toward Silver Airman at the top.

22 Trad Unlink route
53 Silver Airman

Either: traverse in to the ledge from the right (16, see start of Smash And Grab), climb the right-hand groove (17, see start of Rebuilding Oscar), climb the face (17, shown) or climb the left-hand groove (21). From the ledge bridge up the main groove, past a drill hole (a triple sling will protect this nicely), and over the blocks at the top.

17 Trad Unlink route
54 Rebuilding Oscar

From the Silver Airman ledge, climb the right-hand buttress. The two bolts were retrospectively placed.

25 Mixed 2 Unlink route
55 Smash And Grab

The overhung groove above the right-hand start of Silver Airman. Climb past a bolt, move right at the top.

25 Mixed 1 Unlink route
56 Wendy Kroy

"The unpleasant way to do Sheerlux". If you get that joke you are showing your age.

26 Mixed 1 Unlink route
57 * Sheerlux

Classic. Climb the groove, at the roof arrange good protection and move right onto the wall, finishing rightwards beside the overhanging corner above.

24 Trad Unlink route
58 Porkland

Climb the wide groove past a bolt then straight up the wall.

24 Mixed 1 Unlink route
59 Naughty But Nice

Up the wide groove past the bolt to a good hold, then move right, finishing up the crack of Maisola Party to the block on top of Momrath.

23 Mixed 1 Unlink route
60 Down To Earth

The groove between Porkland and Maisola Party. Groundfall potential and stupid first bolt placement.

28 Mixed 1 Unlink route
61 Maisola Party

Follow the thin crack left of Momrath via a small peapod to the top of the block.

25 Trad Unlink route
62 Momrath

A bouldery start gets you up into the groove, moving left at the block. Continue leftwards and up over ledges to the Sheerlux anchors. An alternate finish (21) moves right at the top of the groove, up to the Load It For Me anchors.

19 Trad Unlink route
63 Load It For Me

Classic. Up the right-hand buttress of Momrath, following the thin crack with good protection.

24 Trad Unlink route

Topo #8172 - Another Broken Hero to Bad Karma

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Route Grade Popularity Style
64 Another Broken Hero

Mostly sport but placing some wires at the top may be a good idea...

26 Sport Unlink route
65 Ugly Murmurs

The left-hand short corner with overhanging groove and crack.

25 Trad Unlink route
66 * Samarcand

The deep fire-blackened corner and crack, to the anchor on top of the ledge at halfway. For an extension, continue upwards from there at about grade 15 to the rap rings above Zorn's Lemma or the anchor above Load It For Me.

19 Trad Unlink route
67 Zorn's Lemma

The bolted groove and face. Go for it.

29 Mixed 3 Unlink route
68 Shoes This High

Climb the corner to the left hand edge of the ledge, then up the buttress above, moving left at the top.

24 Trad Unlink route
69 ** Revenge Of The Lawn

Climb either of the grooves to the ledge (right hand groove is easiest), bridge up and pull onto the lip above the roof, then balancy moves up the face, arete and shallow right hand groove.

21 Trad Unlink route
70 Transvaal

Climb the right-hand start of Revenge Of The Lawn until you can traverse right to the first ledge of Kaloo Kalay. Climb any of the grooves to the right of that to reach the next set of ledges, then continue right and up to the ledge at the top of Principles Of Lust. Move up and across the right-leaning slab with 1 old bolt, then traverse carefully across the broken scoria at top, finishing at the Soliloquy anchor. Give it a clean on the way. Phew. Double ropes highly recommended.

18 Mixed 1 Unlink route
71 ** Banshee

Climb the thin crack and slab. It will help to have skinny fingers.

22 Trad Unlink route
72 Stem The Evil Tide

The wall between Banshee and Kaloo Kalay, following the thin crack then past 2 drill holes, until forced left near the top of Banshee. The ledge on Kaloo Kalay is out.

22 Trad Unlink route
73 Suspended Animation

Absolutely silly. Climb the arete only, between Stem The Evil Tide and Kaloo Kalay.

25 Mixed 2 Unlink route
74 ** Kaloo Kalay

Value for money, with 3 cruxes. Climb the low groove to the ledge (crux 1). From the ledge, jam or bridge over the slight bulge (crux 2) and continue up the easier angle slab/crack/groove combination above. Then climb through the bulge and crack (crux 3) to the top. Deserves a star.

19 Trad Unlink route
75 Plumley Walker

The arete. Painful holds, nasty plunge.

28 Boulder Unlink route
76 Diddely Dick Takes A Detour

Climb the initial groove of Kaloo Kalay, then step right and up the right-hand groove above. Finish up left-leaning ramps above. Feel free to clean it.

18 Trad Unlink route
77 Picture This

Climb the corner to broken ledges, with poor protection. Continue up the corner above to the ledges, exiting left or right.

24 Trad Unlink route
78 Studio 54

Beautiful sequins! Climb the buttress to the ledge.

26 Trad Unlink route
79 * Principles Of Lust

Climb the groove until you can cross left and establish yourself on the face and arete. Continue up the arete and face above. Be careful clipping the second bolt, the first one is low and there is groundfall potential if clipping high.

21 Sport 4 Unlink route
80 ** Thimblerigger

Climb the groove and crack to a ledge on the right, then move left to another ledge. Looks easier than it is.

21 Trad 15m Unlink route
81 Barracuda

Climb to the ledge then up the thin crack and over the bulge on the large flake. Originally 24, downgraded to 22 fairly recently for some reason.

22 Trad Unlink route
82 ** Soliloquy

Climb the crack past a flare to a broken ledge (crux), then up past another to the top of the large flake, finishing rightwards through a notch. A well protected classic - gym climbers note it helps if you can jam!

18 Trad 15m Unlink route
83 Training For Straining

The peaked arch right of Soliloquy. Climb the thin crack until you can step left to ledges on Soliloquy, move right again and continue up the crack to the top of the arch.

25 Trad Unlink route
84 Bad Karma

The corner and arete. Some long reaches needed.

26 Trad Unlink route

Topo #8173 - Jams O'Donnell to Straight Out of Clapton

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Route Grade Popularity Style
85 Jams O'Donnell

Climb the corner crack, finishing over blocks above.

24 Trad Unlink route
86 Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off

Up the twin corners to the black ledge. Abseil from the anchor at half-height or finish as for Jams O'Donnell or Melquiades.

25 Trad Unlink route
87 When The Cats Away

Climb the right-hand corner only.

26 Trad Unlink route
88 * Melquiades

Tricky moves up an overhanging wall to the blast hole and ledge on the left, then up the groove above.

24 Mixed 1 Unlink route
89 The Engineer Of Human Souls

The direct finish to Melquiades, up the right-hand groove and thin crack with a bolt (but take small wires too).

24 Mixed 1 Unlink route
90 Zephania
27 Boulder Unlink route
91 Busted Bicycle
25 Mixed 1 Unlink route
92 Splatter
24 Trad Unlink route
93 The Towering Inferno
25 Mixed 1 Unlink route
94 The Frayed Ends Of Sanity
23 Mixed 2 Unlink route
95 Snatchbender Direct

Climb directly up the arete into the square groove to meet the middle section of Snatchbender.

23 Mixed 2 Unlink route
96 * Snatchbender

Up over ledges into the groove, then bridge and balance your way to its apex on the right, pulling through the overhang to a wall pocket and bolt. Step left into the square groove, up to the overhang, right to the ledge on top of the block. Pull ove the final bulge to finish.

23 Mixed 15m, 2 Unlink route
97 ** Bad Behaviour

The most direct version of Snatchbender. Instead of stepping left, pull over the bulge and up onto the block.

23 Mixed 1 Unlink route
98 Chasing After Charlie

Climb the wall between Bad Behaviour and Bandersnatch, then right to the thin crack and hole. Move left after the 4th bolt and pull through the bulge, finishing up the groove right of the Bad Behaviour block. Retrobolted.

24 Mixed 4 Unlink route
99 Chasing After Charlie Direct

Keep going straight up instead of moving left. Run out.

24 Mixed 4 Unlink route
100 ** Bandersnatch

Climb to the ledge at the bottom of the corner and crack. Proceed up past the blast hole on the left, then tend right onto the arete and face, up to the ledge. This route has also been climbed entirely using the arete, with the crack for protection only (22). It is possible to traverse carefully to the anchors of Bad Behaviour or Silver Surfer / Orangutang from the top of this, but beware of loose rock above.

19 Trad 12m Unlink route
101 Spanish Moon

Levitate up the shallow corner and very thin crack right of Bandersnatch. Protection is tiny and hard to place.

24 Trad Unlink route
102 * Pet Cemetery
27 Mixed 2 Unlink route
103 Straight Out Of Clapton
27 Mixed 2 Unlink route

Topo #2362 - Silver Surfer to right end

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Route Grade Popularity Style
104 * Silver Surfer

The serrated crack left of the Orangutang corner. Dynamic and bold?

26 Trad Unlink route
105 Orangutang

Hard start direct into the groove (the ledge on the right is out). Climb the crack to the hanging block then exit left to the anchor above Silver Surfer. Alternately, move right and up the top groove and bulge of Badfinger.

19 Trad Unlink route
106 Night Of The Crabs

Climb the right-hand arete of Orangutang without using the cracks on either side.

20 Trad Unlink route
107 Badfinger

Up the corner above the ledge right of Orangutang to gain the higher ledge on the right (crux). Continue direct up the wide groove and bulge above.

21 Trad Unlink route

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