Access issues inherited from Mt. Eden Quarry

Climbing the long side or short side during school hours (8am-3pm Mon-Fri during term time) is currently prohibited.

To climb at the quarry, permission must be obtained from the NZAC. Fortunately, this is simple enough, just sign up online here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

Helmets must be worn at all times, including when belaying or bouldering.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 R Will Flush Trad 9m
2
13 R World Gone Wild Trad 9m
3
12 * Easy Street Trad 9m
4
14 Smaug Trad 9m
5
18 * Dong Mixed 7m, 1

Climb the arete and face. The cracks either side are out. Take a cam or tricam to protect the break below the top block, or just run it out.

6
15 * Gog Trad 7m

Slightly awkward but rewarding.

7
17 * Trilogy Trad 7m

Bridge up the middle between Gog and Magog with an exciting top-out trhough the overhang.

8
15 * Magog Trad 7m

Good jamming, well protected.

9
16 Parallel Cracks Trad 7m
10
16 * Geoff's Dilemma Trad 7m
11
17 * Triblet Trad 10m

Swing into the drill hole from the right, then up the crack and horizontal breaks. Usually very dirty at the top. Grade 23 if climbed direct, without the use of Gamgee's Groove ledge. There was a grade 21 direct using the thin crack on the left, but that now has a pipe covered with concrete down it.

12
12 Gamgee's Groove Trad 8m

Activity

Check out what is happening in Dong Buttress.