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Access issues inherited from Mt. Eden Quarry

Climbing the long side or short side during school hours (8am-3pm Mon-Fri during term time) is currently prohibited.

To climb at the quarry, permission must be obtained from the NZAC. Fortunately, this is simple enough, just sign up online here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

Helmets must be worn at all times, including when belaying or bouldering.


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Grade Route

Climb the arete and face. The cracks either side are out. Take a cam or tricam to protect the break below the top block, or just run it out.

Slightly awkward but rewarding.

Bridge up the middle between Gog and Magog with an exciting top-out through the overhang. Don't wimp out left or right.

Good jamming, well protected.

Swing into the drill hole from the right, then up the crack and horizontal breaks. Usually very dirty at the top. Grade 23 if climbed direct, without the use of Gamgee's Groove ledge. There was a grade 21 direct using the thin crack on the left, but that now has a pipe covered with concrete down it.


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