Access issues inherited from Mt. Eden Quarry

Climbing the long side or short side during school hours (8am-3pm Mon-Fri during term time) is currently prohibited.

To climb at the quarry, permission must be obtained from the NZAC. Fortunately, this is simple enough, just sign up online here:

Helmets must be worn at all times, including when belaying or bouldering.


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Grade Route
15 R Robbie's Dilemma Trad 9m
18 R Perkie's Downfall Trad 9m
18 R * Green Machine Trad 9m

Delicate and balancy through the crux sequence, with a decent low wire then two very dubious old pitons as protection.

15 ** Magic Boots Trad 9m

One compulsory smear to glory. Shame it isn't longer. Place good gear, there have been accidents, though the new bouncy rubber base is rather better than the old grass with hidden rocks.

23 ** Wellington Boots Trad 9m

Tiny protection, dyno to match, go for it!

17 * Cheating Boots Trad 9m

Harder than it looks. Make an off balance move into the middle of the groove and out to the arete, protected by a quite small nut.

14 M.I.A Trad 8m


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