A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Mt. Eden Quarry 253 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.766066, -36.870712

Description:

The Mount Eden Quarry was the crucible of hard rock climbing in New Zealand. Its steep, technical and fingery basalt grooves, as much as its urban setting remote from any mountains, were the catalyst for climbers to begin pursuing rock climbing as an end in itself. By the mid 1980s the Quarry had the densest concentration of hard climbs in the country.

The routes at the Quarry are as good as they ever were. It is by far the most popular crag in the region and Aucklanders are fortunate to have such a high-quality crag in their midst.

Access Issues:

To climb at the quarry, permission must be obtained from the NZAC. Fortunately, this is simple enough, just sign up online here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

Helmets must be worn at all times, including when belaying or bouldering.

Approach:

The Mt Eden Quarry is situated in the centre of Auckland, in the grounds of the Auckland Grammar School and beside the southern motorway and the Mt Eden Prison.

To reach the Long Side from the school’s main gates on Mountain Road, follow the signs to the Centennial Theatre complex and take the road that leads down to the left of the theatre to the lower playing fields — and the crag.

Access to the Short Side, which is near the corner of Clive and Normanby Roads, is from the Grammar–Windsor hockey turf on Normanby Road.

History:

Was originally a rock quarry, formed in 1856. Labour from the neighbouring prison was used to quarry the rock.

1.1. Long Side 177 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.766682, -36.869618

Description:

Auckland premier climbing area. Permission needs to be obtained before climbing. You can register here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

There is both trad climbing and bouldering. Here, the bouldering is broken in to sectors, while the trad routes (106!) are laid out here.

Approach:

To reach the Long Side from the school’s main gates on Mountain Road, follow the signs to the Centennial Theatre complex and take the road that leads down to the left of the theatre to the lower playing fields — and the crag.

There is NO FOOT ACCESS TO THE CLIFF TOP. You need to be able to lead on trad gear to access many top anchors, though a few pull-cords are provided to pull your rope through the anchors for top-roping - these generally also give access to adjacent routes from the same anchor. Fixed chains may be used to traverse with care from the top of Graveyard Groove to the top of Sneakeasy.

Descent Notes:

All routes have nearby anchors for abseiling or lowering, These may be large steel rings, rap anchors, chains with D-shackles, or just chains.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Casual Regression

The crack line 2m left of False Induction.

15Trad
2 False Induction

The line with 2 bolts, if you can find them among the overgrowth.

16Trad
3 Cliff Smith's Corner

Climb left-facing corner to the ledge. Generally climbed to gain access to the anchors for the next two routes.

16Trad
4 Bop Gun

Climb the overhanging arete to the ledge.

FA: Charlie Creese (solo), 1981

23Boulder
5 * Brain Damage

Climb the right-facing corner to the ledge. A hold fell off some time ago so the route may be a tad harder than it once was.

FA: Len Gillman, 1977

20Trad
6 Dekcuf

The steep groove and thin crack. The name is an anagram.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1977

24Trad
7 * The Raven

The steep left-trending crack and groove. Considered a "yardstick" 24 by some.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

24Trad
8 ** Deffust

Climb the low arete to reach the overhanging finger crack, continue up this to the ledge. Watch out for loose rock below the anchor. Once graded 20, this is now a fairly pumpy 18. Another anagram...

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

18Trad
9 Desolation Angel

The thin overhanging crack through the buttress. Strenuous and demanding to protect.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1977

24Trad
10 Desolation Angel Direct Finish

From the top of the crack continue up the buttress with one bolt.

FA: David Nepia, 1994

26Mixed 1
11 Hear No Evil

After the start of Morning Glory Eliminate, move left across the ear-shaped slab with 2 bolts.

FA: Alex Palman, 1989

25Mixed 2
12 Morning Glory Eliminate

The original Morning Glory buttress was demolished by the school when it began to separate from the face, leaving this and the next four routes mere shadows of their former selves. Climb the steep groove and thin crack.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1986

25Trad
13 Moral Dilemma

An awkward mantle leads to easier climbing up the groove and crack.

FA: Alex Palman, 1985

18Trad
14 Playing Chicken

Climb direct to the Moral Dilemma ledge or traverse in from the start of Morning Glory Eliminate (shown), step right to the next ledge, then up and left to the ramp leading to the top groove of Moral Dilemma.

FA: Geoff Bates, 1985

18Trad
15 Tears For Fears

The groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to the ledge on the right, then the arete above.

FA: Peter Dickson (solo), 1985

19Trad
16 Shitbox Klingons

Up the groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to a ledge on the right, then up and left of the old fixed ring piton to broken ledges. Tend rightwards up thin cracks to finish.

FA: Bryan Moore, 1985

20Trad
17 Kamikaze Krack

Start up the groove right of Shitbox Klingons, past the old fixed ring piton (treat this with extreme suspicion) and up the wide crack above.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1985

20Trad
18 Yuppie Floosie

Climb the buttress left of Supergroove, past the ancient fixed ring piton to ledges, finish up Kamikaze Crack or Shitbox Klingons.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1987

26Trad
19 * Supergroove

A NZ classic - they didn't come any harder than this in 1976. A bouldery start, to difficult moves past a bolt, then strenuous bridging to the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1976

26Mixed 15m, 1
20 * Perennial Pipedreams

The overhung groove right of Supergroove to a bolt at half height, then follow the crack above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

26Trad
21 * Blam, Blam, Blam

Diagonally up the overhanging wall, into the peapod groove above and an easing exit.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

27Trad
22 Faulty Logic

The wall with 2 bolts straight up from the start of Blam Blam Blam.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

27Mixed 2
23 Effort, Money And Time

Start from the pointy block and climb the thin crack and face past a drill hole.

FA: Bolke Water, 1992

24Trad
24 Biggles Flies West

From the pointy block, climb the left-leaning thin crack and jam the notch to reach the shattered ledge, then proceed up the slab with the crack at left. Apparently you do a "bigglesworth" somewhere but nobody has any idea what that means...

FA: Grant Davidson, 1980

21Trad
25 Graveyard Groove

Climb the deep groove to good stances, then straight up and exit through the gap between the blocks at top.

FA: Bryan Moore, 1984

17Trad
26 Biggles Sucks A Kumara

Climb the buttress between Graveyard Groove and Dalrymples Groove. 2 bolts, not much other pro that isn't pretty crap.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1984

22Mixed 2
27 Dalrymple's Groove

The deep black V groove. Dalrymple is Rick McGregor's middle name...

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

18Trad
28 Diddely Dick

Climb the buttress with 2 bolts between Dalrymple's Groove and Koruba.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

23Mixed 2
29 ** Koruba

A bridging classic that saw some long falls before the single piton at half height was replaced by 3 bolts. Not quite a sport climb - a good wire protects the moves up to the first bolt.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

19Mixed 3
30 Nutless

Climb the arete with 2 bolts between Koruba and Nutcracker, without using the cracks either side.

FA: Peter Dickson (solo), 1985

18Mixed 2
31 Nutcracker

Boulder direct to the ledge, or traverse in from the left (16). Then up the blocky groove and exit to a chain hidden in the bushes above. Looks easy but the top can be tricky and this is perhaps not ideal as your first lead on gear at the long side if you are not solid at the grade.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

17Trad
32 Thunderpussy

Just climb the buttress between Nutcracker and Green Groove Eliminate.

FA: Peter Dickson, 1990

25Mixed 2
33 Green Groove Eliminate

Continue up the left hand thin crack from the start of Green Groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

23Trad
34 Green Groove

Up the groove to the big blast hole and wobbly block, then move right into the upper groove.

FA: Robbie McBirney (solo), 1974

21Trad
35 Wild Gravity

Start as for Sneakeasy, move back left at the second bolt, then direct up the buttress.

FA: Alex Palman, 1987

24Sport 3
36 Wild Gravity Direct

Start as for Sneakeasy, stay left of the arete, finish up Wild Gravity.

26Sport 3
37 * Sneakeasy

A bouldery start and move right past a bolt to a small ledge leads to delicate face climbing.

FA: Bryce Martin, 1987

23Sport 3
38 Zillmerised

Climb the arete below the Sneakeasy ledge.

FA: Roland Foster (solo), 1993

30Boulder
39 * Bodysnatcher

Climb the corner past the small overhang, move left a little then back into the peapod groove. Continue over the bulge to the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

23Trad
40 Boys On Bikes

Climb Bodysnatcher until you can move into the corner on the right. A few blocks were removed retrospectively before this route was mostly superseded by Pig Igneous.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

26Trad
41 * Pig Igneous

A fantastic route combining a powerful bouldery bottom section with an extremely technical second half and an 'exciting' runout finish. Gear can be placed if wanted.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1989

27Sport 3
42 Sweat

Start up Pig Igneous, but move right at the first bolt and climb the shallow groove above.

FA: Dave Vass, 1981

27Mixed 1
43 * Heat

Climb the overhung crack or buttress past a bolt and proceed up the groove above. A must-do.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

26Mixed 2
44 * Legs This Wide

The shallow bulging grooves to the right of Heat. Take small wires.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

25Mixed 2
45 * Sample The Dog

Follow the groove left of Wired all the way.

FA: Luke Newnham

26Mixed 4
46 Wired

Climb to the broken ledges from the left, move back right and up the groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

24Trad
47 Black Stump

Climb to the broken ledges from the right, then up the thin crack directly above.

FA: Cliff Smith (2 points of aid), 1974

FFA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

23Trad
48 The Grip Goes On

Straight up the shallow groove past the bolt to ledges at the top.

FA: Graeme Aimer, 1983

23Mixed 1
49 The Ghost Who Walks

Up the narrow groove on the left to the ledge of Gothic Groove, then move back left into the groove and up to rejoin Gothic Groove at the finish.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1986

26Mixed 1
50 * Gothic Groove

Climb the broken wall to a comfy ledge, then bridge up the groove. Move left at the horizontal break into the adjacent groove (crux), up to ledges and left to the anchors.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1975

22Trad
51 Roo Squeaks

The direct finish to Gothic Groove.

FA: Alex Palman, 1987

25Trad
52 Fuck-Knuckle

Climb to the black shattered ledge, then up the crack with a knuckle-fucking flare through the bulge above. Continue up, moving right toward Silver Airman at the top.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

22Trad
53 Silver Airman

Either: traverse in to the ledge from the right (16, see start of Smash And Grab), climb the right-hand groove (17, see start of Rebuilding Oscar), climb the face (17, shown) or climb the left-hand groove (21). From the ledge bridge up the main groove, past a drill hole (a triple sling will protect this nicely), and over the blocks at the top.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

17Trad
54 Rebuilding Oscar

From the Silver Airman ledge, climb the right-hand buttress. The two bolts were retrospectively placed.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1986

25Mixed 2
55 Smash And Grab

The overhung groove above the right-hand start of Silver Airman. Climb past a bolt, move right at the top.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

25Mixed 1
56 Wendy Kroy

"The unpleasant way to do Sheerlux". If you get that joke you are showing your age.

FA: Ton Sneider, 1995

26Mixed 1
57 * Sheerlux

Classic. Climb the groove, at the roof arrange good protection and move right onto the wall, finishing rightwards beside the overhanging corner above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

24Trad
58 Porkland

Climb the wide groove past a bolt then straight up the wall.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

24Mixed 1
59 Naughty But Nice

Up the wide groove past the bolt to a good hold, then move right, finishing up the crack of Maisola Party to the block on top of Momrath.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1980

23Mixed 1
60 Down To Earth

The groove between Porkland and Maisola Party. Groundfall potential and stupid first bolt placement.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1992

28Mixed 1
61 Maisola Party

Follow the thin crack left of Momrath via a small peapod to the top of the block.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

25Trad
62 Momrath

A bouldery start gets you up into the groove, moving left at the block. Continue leftwards and up over ledges to the Sheerlux anchors. An alternate finish (21) moves right at the top of the groove, up to the Load It For Me anchors.

19Trad
63 Load It For Me

Classic. Up the right-hand buttress of Momrath, following the thin crack with good protection.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1980

24Trad
64 Another Broken Hero

Mostly sport but placing some wires at the top may be a good idea...

FA: Rick McGregor, 1985

26Sport
65 Ugly Murmurs

The left-hand short corner with overhanging groove and crack.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1980

25Trad
66 ** Samarcand

The deep fire-blackened corner and crack, to the anchor on top of the ledge at halfway. For an extension, continue upwards from there at about grade 15 to the rap rings above Zorn's Lemma or the anchor above Load It For Me.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1975

19Trad
67 Zorn's Lemma

The bolted groove and face. Go for it.

FA: Roland Foster, 1992

29Mixed 3
68 Shoes This High

Climb the corner to the left hand edge of the ledge, then up the buttress above, moving left at the top.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1983

24Trad
69 ** Revenge Of The Lawn

Climb either of the grooves to the ledge (right hand groove is easiest), bridge up and pull onto the lip above the roof, then balancy moves up the face, arete and shallow right hand groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1979

21Trad
70 Transvaal

Climb to the ledge of Revenge Of The Lawn, then traverse right to the first ledge of Kaloo Kalay. Climb any of the grooves to the right of that to reach the next set of ledges, then continue up and right across the slab above Thimblerigger, finishing at the Soliloquy anchor. Give it a clean on the way. Phew.

FA: Robert Staveley Parker, 1978

18Trad
71 * Banshee

Climb the thin crack and slab. It will help to have skinny fingers.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

22Trad
72 Stem The Evil Tide

The wall between Banshee and Kaloo Kalay, following the thin crack then past 2 drill holes, until forced left near the top of Banshee. The ledge on Kaloo Kalay is out.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

22Trad
73 Suspended Animation

Absolutely silly. Climb the arete only, between Stem The Evil Tide and Kaloo Kalay.

FA: Alex Palman, 1988

25Mixed 2
74 ** Kaloo Kalay

Value for money, with 3 cruxes. Climb the low groove to the ledge (crux 1). From the ledge, jam or bridge over the slight bulge (crux 2) and continue up the easier angle slab/crack/groove combination above. Then climb through the bulge and crack (crux 3) to the top. Deserves a star.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1973

19Trad
75 Plumley Walker

The arete. Painful holds, nasty plunge.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1991

28Boulder
76 Diddely Dick Takes A Detour

Climb the initial groove of Kaloo Kalay, then step right and up the right-hand groove above. Finish up left-leaning ramps above. Feel free to clean it.

FA: Grant Davidson, 1982

18Trad
77 Picture This

Climb the corner to broken ledges, with poor protection. Continue up the corner above to the ledges, exiting left or right.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1982

24Trad
78 Studio 54

Beautiful sequins! Climb the buttress to the ledge.

FA: Charlie Creese (solo), 1981

26Trad
79 Principles Of Lust

Climb the groove until you can cross left and establish yourself on the face and arete. Continue up the arete and face above. Be careful clipping the second bolt, the first one is low and there is groundfall potential if clipping high.

FA: John van der Werff, 1994

21Sport 4
80 * Thimblerigger

Climb the groove and crack to a ledge on the right, then move left to another ledge. Looks easier than it is.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1975

21Trad 15m
81 Barracuda

Climb to the ledge then up the thin crack and over the bulge on the large flake. Originally 24, downgraded to 22 fairly recently for some reason.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

22Trad
82 ** Soliloquy

Climb the crack past a flare to a broken ledge (crux), then up past another to the top of the large flake, finishing rightwards through a notch. A well protected classic - gym climbers note it helps if you can jam!

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1973

18Trad 15m
83 Training For Straining

The peaked arch right of Soliloquy. Climb the thin crack until you can step left to ledges on Soliloquy, move right again and continue up the crack to the top of the arch.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1981

25Trad
84 Bad Karma

The corner and arete. Some long reaches needed.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

26Trad
85 Jams O'Donnell

Climb the corner crack, finishing over blocks above.

FFA: Robbie McBirney, 1977

24Trad
86 Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off

Up the twin corners to the black ledge. Abseil from the anchor at half-height or finish as for Jams O'Donnell or Melquiades.

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

25Trad
87 When The Cats Away

Climb the right-hand corner only.

FA: Alex Palman, 1988

26Trad
88 * Melquiades

Tricky moves up an overhanging wall to the blast hole and ledge on the left, then up the groove above.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1975

24Mixed 1
89 The Engineer Of Human Souls

The direct finish to Melquiades, up the right-hand groove and thin crack with a bolt (but take small wires too).

FA: Luke Newnham, 1989

24Mixed 1
90 Zephania 27Boulder
91 Busted Bicycle 25Mixed 1
92 Splatter 24Trad
93 The Towering Inferno 25Mixed 1
94 The Frayed Ends Of Sanity 23Mixed 2
95 Snatchbender Direct 23Mixed 2
96 * Snatchbender 23Mixed 15m, 2
97 Bad Behaviour 23Mixed 1
98 Chasing After Charlie 24Mixed 4
99 Chasing After Charlie Direct 24Trad
100 ** Bandersnatch

Climb to the ledge at the bottom of the corner and crack. Proceed up past the blast hole on the left, then tend right onto the arete and face, up to the ledge. This route has also been climbed entirely using the arete, with the crack for protection only (22). It is possible to traverse carefully to the anchors of Bad Behaviour from the top of this, but beware of loose rock above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

19Trad 12m
101 Spanish Moon 24Trad
102 * Pet Cemetery 27Mixed 2
103 Straight Out Of Clapton 27Mixed 2
104 * Silver Surfer 26Trad
105 Orangutang 19Trad
106 Night Of The Crabs 20Trad
107 Badfinger 21Trad
108 Contested Corner 17Trad
109 It Man 21Trad

1.1.1. Section 1 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Whale Dork V1Boulder
2 Egg and Soldiers V6Boulder
3 One Move Wonder

FA: James FM

V4Boulder
4 * Liken Slap'n V1Boulder
5 Dark and Murky V0Boulder
6 Project V9Boulder
7 Bop Gun V4Boulder
8 Brain Damage V1Boulder
9 Virgin Lay VB-Boulder

1.1.2. Section 2 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Deffust V0Boulder
2 Desolation Angel VB-Boulder
3 ** Moral Dilemma V2Boulder
4 The Egyption V8Boulder
5 Yuppie Floozie V5Boulder
6 ** Supergroove V4Boulder
7 Perrenial Pipe Dreams V5Boulder
8 * Scott’s Arête V8Boulder

1.1.3. Section 3 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blam Blam Blam V6Boulder
2 Blam Direct V8Boulder
3 ** Grunta V4Boulder
4 Tight Booty V0Boulder
5 ** Boulevard Pèriphèrique

Campus.

V4Boulder
6 * Drive Through Coffee V4Boulder
7 * McNuggett V7Boulder
8 Lego V5Boulder

1.1.4. Section 4 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sneak Easy V3Boulder
2 * Zilmerised V8Boulder
3 Solarised V8Boulder
4 Methodone V9Boulder
5 ** Heat V4Boulder
6 Bitch V6Boulder

1.1.5. Section 5 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eddie Flash V2Boulder
2 * Silver Airman V3Boulder
3 Down to Earth V3Boulder
4 Docking Practice V2Boulder

1.1.6. Section 6 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Another Broken Hero V5Boulder
2 Mumbles V5Boulder
3 Zorns Lemma V5Boulder
4 Shoes This High V4Boulder
5 * Revenge of the Lawn V2Boulder
6 * Big Max V5Boulder

1.1.7. Section 7 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Plumley Walker V7Boulder
2 Studio 54 V6Boulder
3 Short Black Decaf V1Boulder
4 Barracuda Start VB-Boulder
5 Soliloquay VB-Boulder
6 Cheeky Booty V2Boulder
7 Hypercaffinated V7Boulder
8 Project Booty Boulder
9 I C Lightning, U C Crack V8Boulder
10 Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off V2Boulder
11 When the Cat's Away V5Boulder

1.1.8. Section 8 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Professional V9Boulder
2 * Melquiades V4Boulder
3 * Zephania V6Boulder
4 Booty Pain V1Boulder
5 * Arêteology V2Boulder
6 False Hope V2Boulder
7 Crazy Booty Frog V1Boulder

1.1.9. Section 9 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Booty Rocking Ketzatron VB-Boulder
2 Pet Cemetery V5Boulder
3 * Silver Surfer V4Boulder
4 Orang-utan V1Boulder

1.1.10. Shady Tree Area 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Latte V1Boulder
2 ** Tree Hugger V2Boulder
3 Slim Shady VB-Boulder
4 'it Man V2Boulder
5 Short Man VB-Boulder

1.2. Short Side 76 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 174.765926, -36.871394

Approach:

Access to the Short Side, which is near the corner of Clive and Normanby Roads, is from the Grammar–Windsor hockey turf on Normanby Road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Traverse from the corner that is right of Cheating Boots to Svartmoot. V2Trad

1.2.1. Sunnyside 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 174.765442, -36.871003

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pabulum 13Trad 6m
2 Groove V 12Trad 6m
3 Trocadero 14Trad 6m
4 * Satellite Spies 16 RTrad 7m
5 Night Shift 14Trad 7m
6 Bar Bodega 15Trad 6m
7 * Glove Puppet 15Trad
8 ** Plagal Grind

Twin cracks, if only using the left crack is a grade 17.

15Trad 7m
9 Tradewinds 15Trad 6m
10 Jacaranda

Grade 16 if the ledge is not used.

14Trad 6m
11 * The Great Divide 11Trad 8m
12 Soluble Fish 14Trad
13 The Daily Planet 15Trad
14 D.K.D 15Trad 7m
15 Raucous Laughter 17Trad 7m
16 * Secret Crack 17Trad 10m

1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall 13 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 174.765517, -36.871174

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Svartmoot 16Trad 7m
2 Plane Sailing 12Trad 6m
3 * Coconut Rough 13Trad 7m
4 From Scratch 11Trad 7m
5 Freud Squad 14Trad 7m
6 * Chrome Safari 15Trad 7m
7 Hyphen Ear 14Trad 8m
8 Moleman 11Trad 8m
9 * Step Chant Unit 13Trad 8m
10 Freak the Sheep 15Trad 8m
11 Station Road 15Trad 8m
12 Pop Mix 14Trad 8m
13 Mutton Gun 14 RTrad 9m

1.2.3. Dong Buttress 12 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 174.765663, -36.871209

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Will Flush 13 RTrad 9m
2 World Gone Wild 13 RTrad 9m
3 * Easy Street 12Trad 9m
4 * Smaug 14Trad 9m
5 * Dong 18Mixed 7m, 1
6 Gog 15Trad 7m
7 ** Trilogy 17Trad 7m
8 * Magog 15Trad 7m
9 Parallel Cracks 16Trad 7m
10 Geoff's Dilemma 16Trad 7m
11 *** Triblet

Swing into the drill hole from the right, then up the crack and horizontal breaks. Usually very dirty at the top. Grade 23 if climbed direct, without the use of Gamgee's Groove ledge.

17Trad 8m
12 Gamgee's Groove 12Trad 8m

1.2.4. Whinging Wall 9 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 174.765788, -36.871244

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shorter Crack 12Trad 8m
2 Short Crack 13Trad 8m
3 ** Boggart 19Trad 10m
4 * Wall Of The Whinging Pom

Grade 25 id the crack left of 'Treebeard' isn't used.

22Trad 10m
5 ** Treebeard 16Trad 10m
6 Wattle Tree Groove 15Trad 10m
7 Jim's Direct 15Trad 10m
8 Wattle Tree Chimney 13Trad 10m
9 Robbie's Direct 17 RTrad 10m

1.2.5. Boots Wall 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 174.765902, -36.871300

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Robbie's Dilemma 15 RTrad 9m
2 Perkie's Downfall 18 RTrad 9m
3 * Green Machine 18 RTrad 9m
4 ** Magic Boots 15Trad 9m
5 ** Wellington Boots 23Trad 9m
6 * Cheating Boots 17Trad 9m
7 M.I.A 14Trad 8m

1.2.6. Coliseum and Wee Corner 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 174.766209, -36.871388

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unnamed

Sit Start

V1Boulder
2 Red Arete V6Boulder
3 The Last Samurai V3Boulder
4 Parthenon 15Trad 15m
5 * Coliseum 15Trad 15m
6 Brown Arete

Up the arete/face. Left crack is in (no jamming), anything past the crack is out. Everything including the right hand crack and past is out.

V5Boulder
7 Minus 14Trad 10m

1.2.7. New Wall 11 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.766158, -36.871705

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * New Beginnings

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Martin Malin, 2006

13Sport 12m, 3
2 * Welcome to O.W.B.C

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Chris White, 2006

13Trad 12m
3 New Kid in Town

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Chris White, 2006

13Trad 12m
4 Old Dogs and New Tricks

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Chris White, 2006

14Trad 12m
5 ** Newly Wed

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Mike Zandvoort, 2005

15Sport 12m, 4
6 * DORLY World

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Mike Zandvoort, 2005

16Mixed 12m, 1
7 New Romantics

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Mike Zandvoort, 2005

13Trad 12m
8 New Boots and Panties

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Mike Zandvoort, 2005

12Trad 12m
9 New Labour

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, 2005

12 RTrad 12m
10 * Time (The Revealator)

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Chris White, 2006

14Sport 12m, 4
11 ** Ingrid Bergman

FA: Ray Hollingsworth, Chris White, 2006

16Sport 12m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
VB- Virgin Lay Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
Desolation Angel Boulder 1.1.2. Section 2
Barracuda Start Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
Soliloquay Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
** Booty Rocking Ketzatron Boulder 1.1.9. Section 9
Short Man Boulder 1.1.10. Shady Tree Area
Slim Shady Boulder 1.1.10. Shady Tree Area
11 * The Great Divide Trad 8m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
From Scratch Trad 7m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Moleman Trad 8m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
12 Groove V Trad 6m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
Plane Sailing Trad 6m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
* Easy Street Trad 9m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
Gamgee's Groove Trad 8m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
Shorter Crack Trad 8m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
New Boots and Panties Trad 12m 1.2.7. New Wall
New Labour Trad 12m 1.2.7. New Wall
13 Pabulum Trad 6m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
* Coconut Rough Trad 7m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
* Step Chant Unit Trad 8m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Will Flush Trad 9m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
World Gone Wild Trad 9m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
Short Crack Trad 8m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
Wattle Tree Chimney Trad 10m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
* New Beginnings Sport 12m, 3 1.2.7. New Wall
New Kid in Town Trad 12m 1.2.7. New Wall
New Romantics Trad 12m 1.2.7. New Wall
* Welcome to O.W.B.C Trad 12m 1.2.7. New Wall
14 Jacaranda Trad 6m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
Night Shift Trad 7m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
Soluble Fish Trad 1.2.1. Sunnyside
Trocadero Trad 6m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
Freud Squad Trad 7m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Hyphen Ear Trad 8m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Mutton Gun Trad 9m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Pop Mix Trad 8m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
* Smaug Trad 9m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
M.I.A Trad 8m 1.2.5. Boots Wall
Minus Trad 10m 1.2.6. Coliseum and Wee Corner
Old Dogs and New Tricks Trad 12m 1.2.7. New Wall
* Time (The Revealator) Sport 12m, 4 1.2.7. New Wall
15 Casual Regression Trad 1.1. Long Side
Bar Bodega Trad 6m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
D.K.D Trad 7m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
* Glove Puppet Trad 1.2.1. Sunnyside
** Plagal Grind Trad 7m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
The Daily Planet Trad 1.2.1. Sunnyside
Tradewinds Trad 6m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
* Chrome Safari Trad 7m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Freak the Sheep Trad 8m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Station Road Trad 8m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Gog Trad 7m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
* Magog Trad 7m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
Jim's Direct Trad 10m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
Wattle Tree Groove Trad 10m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
** Magic Boots Trad 9m 1.2.5. Boots Wall
Robbie's Dilemma Trad 9m 1.2.5. Boots Wall
* Coliseum Trad 15m 1.2.6. Coliseum and Wee Corner
Parthenon Trad 15m 1.2.6. Coliseum and Wee Corner
** Newly Wed Sport 12m, 4 1.2.7. New Wall
V0 Dark and Murky Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
Deffust Boulder 1.1.2. Section 2
Tight Booty Boulder 1.1.3. Section 3
16 Cliff Smith's Corner Trad 1.1. Long Side
False Induction Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Satellite Spies Trad 7m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
* Svartmoot Trad 7m 1.2.2. The Forgotten Wall
Geoff's Dilemma Trad 7m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
Parallel Cracks Trad 7m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
** Treebeard Trad 10m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
* DORLY World Mixed 12m, 1 1.2.7. New Wall
** Ingrid Bergman Sport 12m, 4 1.2.7. New Wall
17 Contested Corner Trad 1.1. Long Side
Graveyard Groove Trad 1.1. Long Side
Nutcracker Trad 1.1. Long Side
Silver Airman Trad 1.1. Long Side
Raucous Laughter Trad 7m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
* Secret Crack Trad 10m 1.2.1. Sunnyside
*** Triblet Trad 8m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
** Trilogy Trad 7m 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
Robbie's Direct Trad 10m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
* Cheating Boots Trad 9m 1.2.5. Boots Wall
18 Dalrymple's Groove Trad 1.1. Long Side
** Deffust Trad 1.1. Long Side
Diddely Dick Takes A Detour Trad 1.1. Long Side
Moral Dilemma Trad 1.1. Long Side
Nutless Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
Playing Chicken Trad 1.1. Long Side
** Soliloquy Trad 15m 1.1. Long Side
Transvaal Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Dong Mixed 7m, 1 1.2.3. Dong Buttress
* Green Machine Trad 9m 1.2.5. Boots Wall
Perkie's Downfall Trad 9m 1.2.5. Boots Wall
19 ** Bandersnatch Trad 12m 1.1. Long Side
** Kaloo Kalay Trad 1.1. Long Side
** Koruba Mixed 3 1.1. Long Side
Momrath Trad 1.1. Long Side
Orangutang Trad 1.1. Long Side
** Samarcand Trad 1.1. Long Side
Tears For Fears Trad 1.1. Long Side
** Boggart Trad 10m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
V1 Brain Damage Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
* Liken Slap'n Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
* Whale Dork Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
Short Black Decaf Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
Booty Pain Boulder 1.1.8. Section 8
Crazy Booty Frog Boulder 1.1.8. Section 8
Orang-utan Boulder 1.1.9. Section 9
* Latte Boulder 1.1.10. Shady Tree Area
Unnamed Boulder 1.2.6. Coliseum and Wee Corner
20 * Brain Damage Trad 1.1. Long Side
Kamikaze Krack Trad 1.1. Long Side
Night Of The Crabs Trad 1.1. Long Side
Shitbox Klingons Trad 1.1. Long Side
V2 ** Moral Dilemma Boulder 1.1.2. Section 2
Docking Practice Boulder 1.1.5. Section 5
Eddie Flash Boulder 1.1.5. Section 5
* Revenge of the Lawn Boulder 1.1.6. Section 6
Cheeky Booty Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
* Arêteology Boulder 1.1.8. Section 8
False Hope Boulder 1.1.8. Section 8
'it Man Boulder 1.1.10. Shady Tree Area
** Tree Hugger Boulder 1.1.10. Shady Tree Area
* Traverse from the corner that is right of Cheating Boots to Svartmoot. Trad 1.2. Short Side
21 Badfinger Trad 1.1. Long Side
Biggles Flies West Trad 1.1. Long Side
Green Groove Trad 1.1. Long Side
It Man Trad 1.1. Long Side
Principles Of Lust Sport 4 1.1. Long Side
** Revenge Of The Lawn Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Thimblerigger Trad 15m 1.1. Long Side
22 * Banshee Trad 1.1. Long Side
Barracuda Trad 1.1. Long Side
Biggles Sucks A Kumara Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
Fuck-Knuckle Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Gothic Groove Trad 1.1. Long Side
Stem The Evil Tide Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Wall Of The Whinging Pom Trad 10m 1.2.4. Whinging Wall
V3 Sneak Easy Boulder 1.1.4. Section 4
Down to Earth Boulder 1.1.5. Section 5
* Silver Airman Boulder 1.1.5. Section 5
The Last Samurai Boulder 1.2.6. Coliseum and Wee Corner
23 Bad Behaviour Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
Black Stump Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Bodysnatcher Trad 1.1. Long Side
Bop Gun Boulder 1.1. Long Side
Diddely Dick Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
Green Groove Eliminate Trad 1.1. Long Side
Naughty But Nice Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
* Snatchbender Mixed 15m, 2 1.1. Long Side
Snatchbender Direct Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
* Sneakeasy Sport 3 1.1. Long Side
The Frayed Ends Of Sanity Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
The Grip Goes On Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
** Wellington Boots Trad 9m 1.2.5. Boots Wall
V4 Bop Gun Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
One Move Wonder Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
** Supergroove Boulder 1.1.2. Section 2
** Boulevard Pèriphèrique Boulder 1.1.3. Section 3
* Drive Through Coffee Boulder 1.1.3. Section 3
** Grunta Boulder 1.1.3. Section 3
** Heat Boulder 1.1.4. Section 4
Shoes This High Boulder 1.1.6. Section 6
* Melquiades Boulder 1.1.8. Section 8
* Silver Surfer Boulder 1.1.9. Section 9
24 Chasing After Charlie Mixed 4 1.1. Long Side
Chasing After Charlie Direct Trad 1.1. Long Side
Dekcuf Trad 1.1. Long Side
Desolation Angel Trad 1.1. Long Side
Effort, Money And Time Trad 1.1. Long Side
Jams O'Donnell Trad 1.1. Long Side
Load It For Me Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Melquiades Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
Picture This Trad 1.1. Long Side
Porkland Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
* Sheerlux Trad 1.1. Long Side
Shoes This High Trad 1.1. Long Side
Spanish Moon Trad 1.1. Long Side
Splatter Trad 1.1. Long Side
The Engineer Of Human Souls Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
* The Raven Trad 1.1. Long Side
Wild Gravity Sport 3 1.1. Long Side
Wired Trad 1.1. Long Side
25 Busted Bicycle Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
Hear No Evil Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
* Legs This Wide Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
Maisola Party Trad 1.1. Long Side
Morning Glory Eliminate Trad 1.1. Long Side
Rebuilding Oscar Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
Roo Squeaks Trad 1.1. Long Side
Smash And Grab Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
Suspended Animation Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
The Towering Inferno Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
Thunderpussy Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
Training For Straining Trad 1.1. Long Side
Tune In, Turn On, Drop Off Trad 1.1. Long Side
Ugly Murmurs Trad 1.1. Long Side
V5 Perrenial Pipe Dreams Boulder 1.1.2. Section 2
Yuppie Floozie Boulder 1.1.2. Section 2
Lego Boulder 1.1.3. Section 3
Another Broken Hero Boulder 1.1.6. Section 6
* Big Max Boulder 1.1.6. Section 6
Mumbles Boulder 1.1.6. Section 6
Zorns Lemma Boulder 1.1.6. Section 6
When the Cat's Away Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
Pet Cemetery Boulder 1.1.9. Section 9
Brown Arete Boulder 1.2.6. Coliseum and Wee Corner
26 Another Broken Hero Sport 1.1. Long Side
Bad Karma Trad 1.1. Long Side
Boys On Bikes Trad 1.1. Long Side
Desolation Angel Direct Finish Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
* Heat Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
* Perennial Pipedreams Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Sample The Dog Mixed 4 1.1. Long Side
* Silver Surfer Trad 1.1. Long Side
Studio 54 Trad 1.1. Long Side
* Supergroove Mixed 15m, 1 1.1. Long Side
The Ghost Who Walks Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
Wendy Kroy Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
When The Cats Away Trad 1.1. Long Side
Wild Gravity Direct Sport 3 1.1. Long Side
Yuppie Floosie Trad 1.1. Long Side
V6 Egg and Soldiers Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
Blam Blam Blam Boulder 1.1.3. Section 3
Bitch Boulder 1.1.4. Section 4
Studio 54 Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
* Zephania Boulder 1.1.8. Section 8
Red Arete Boulder 1.2.6. Coliseum and Wee Corner
27 * Blam, Blam, Blam Trad 1.1. Long Side
Faulty Logic Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
* Pet Cemetery Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
* Pig Igneous Sport 3 1.1. Long Side
Straight Out Of Clapton Mixed 2 1.1. Long Side
Sweat Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
Zephania Boulder 1.1. Long Side
V7 * McNuggett Boulder 1.1.3. Section 3
Hypercaffinated Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
Plumley Walker Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
28 Down To Earth Mixed 1 1.1. Long Side
Plumley Walker Boulder 1.1. Long Side
29 Zorn's Lemma Mixed 3 1.1. Long Side
V8 * Scott’s Arête Boulder 1.1.2. Section 2
The Egyption Boulder 1.1.2. Section 2
Blam Direct Boulder 1.1.3. Section 3
Solarised Boulder 1.1.4. Section 4
* Zilmerised Boulder 1.1.4. Section 4
I C Lightning, U C Crack Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7
30 Zillmerised Boulder 1.1. Long Side
V9 Project Boulder 1.1.1. Section 1
Methodone Boulder 1.1.4. Section 4
The Professional Boulder 1.1.8. Section 8
? Project Booty Boulder 1.1.7. Section 7