Routes as sport in Wharewerawera / Long Beach

The lovely corner. Access using via ferrata and traversing right along chain.

Pull along the right-hand via ferrata then head up the lower section of Little Rocket Man. When you've reached the halfway ledge move the belay right a couple of metres to another set of rings. Head right across the stacked blocks and up into the corner. Exciting climbing to the cruxy, pinched-off top on great rock. Swing out right onto the face to a ring belay up high. Belay here or continue out left and around the corner to Little Rocket Man's upper belay (about grade 18).

Aid your way up the chain to the base of the climb! Then follow the open book corner, which requires some thinking in parts. When you exit the corner, step left to the anchor.

Scramble up to the fixed rope to belay from the grassy ledge. Move out left onto the breccia wall then straight up the line.

Scramble up the fixed rope (which can be used as a runner) and after clipping the first bolt of 'Weak Flesh' head up and right over a big flake and into the corner. Surmount three steps then make an unlikely move out right to a big jug on the arete. Pad on up to the summit.

From the fixed rope scramble up to the base of the pillar (2 bolts protect on the side wall). Wind your way up just left of the corner and over onto the ledge at the halfway mark. Straight up the corner onto the top of the pillar.

Start at the base of New Horizons and head out left along a ledge and around the point. Up into the corner and onto the top of a truncated pillar. Squeeze out onto the big sloping ledge above then up the edge of a gently overhanging flake.

Finesse your way up the blank-looking face into the crux, and either test your static reach or resolve your commitment issues for a double dyno to the rail! If you're rocking a shorter stature this might be grade 24 or harder - good luck with the mono alternative beta.. Manoeuvre up towards easier terrain and finish at the shared anchor as for Ride the Spiral.

A great wee route which is currently overgrown with lichen along with Bulemic's Picnic and Teddy Bears Picnic.

A superb route that has unfortunately succumbed to lichen.

Hard moves straight off the deck into enjoyable upper sequence

To the left of Jeremys Route.

Beware, the top has many loose blocks, I don't recommend climbing this until they have been cleared out.

To the right of labours of love. Finishes at the DBB at the top of the slab.

Continues up the face and aeret above the twenty twenty slab

Use the fixed rope on the left to gain the shoulder below Aafnraa and climb the razor flakes. Up the slabs left of Aafnraa crack into a right facing corner capped by a small roof. Make an unlikely smeary move up to the belay ring.

Begins off the shoulder beneath 'Aafnraa'. The stacked pillar which was the start of 'Aafnraa' has been pushed off the wall and the scar that was left has been bolted as the start of OM. The starting moves are the crux (20) and then you pull over onto the wall and up easier terrain at around grade 16.

The bolted arete splitting the left and central faces of the main wall. Easy start (optional pro) up to bolts in corner. Awesome rock and great movement to the top

Shares the start of SAS, heads out rightwards and then directly up to the lip. Well protected.

Steve Carr’s original (1998) line went rightwards up the crack (5 bolts then trad). 20 years later (September 2018) he added more bolts to create a variant that heads up the slabs to the left.

Begins left of 'Drury Lane' start. Follow the bolts up to the roof and move left under it to the far side. Pull over onto the wall above and either follow 'Drury Lane' cracks to the belay in which case you will needs some trad gear, or angle leftwards on bolts on 'Fundamental Blues'. Equipped by Steve Carr and Murray Judge in 2022.

Overhung wall with sloping strenuous holds. Excellent quality rock, a belay was installed by Murray Judge and the wall retrobolted by Bob Chow. The first ascensionist soloed the route back in 1984.

A popular, thought provoking arete with big, angle holds and choice moves. Weave up and teeter over to the anchor.

New Surreptitious since half the climb fell to the ground.

Great slab. Retrobolted by Steve Carr.

Excellent slab, though runout to the anchor from the third bolt, be wary.

First climbed in the glory days of 1969. Retrobolted by Murray Judge.

Begin at the 'Seacliff' start and traverse left along the shelf to the first bolt. Up into a short corner then move across left until both feet are on a small ledge. From here you can either drop down slightly which gives you more of a chance for a rest (there's some great holds down there) or keep high and move straight into a sustained sequence of pockets and crimps to the cruxy bulge. Steve Carr 2021

Start as for the great migration. At the 2nd bolt head directly up through the slightly overhung face. 2 distinguishing technical yet powerful cruxes.

Note: The first crux can be made easier by veering left from the bolt line and utilising the holds on the face to the left of the corner. This makes the grade a 23/24.

For the full experience use the face where the bolts are!

Start by clipping the first two bolts of 'Seacliff' and then move across right onto the juggy wall and up the line.

Geoff Williamson 2021 FFA

Start right of Seacliff by bouldering over the bulge (galv chain link) and onto the wall. Up right of the arete to the overhanging blocks above. Wild finish through the blocks!

Murray Judge 2021 FFA

Clip the first two bolts of 'Phoenix Rising' then move across left and up onto a narrow ledge. Bridge the corner and then move right and up a continuous line of jugs to the blocky roof. Steep, enjoyable climbing.

Dave Brash 2021 FFA

A staunch, compelling and gently overhanging line beginning off the shelf behind the macro tree. Powerful crimps and layaways lead to the incipient groove in the centre of the wall. It doesn't let up until it eventually joins the last two bolts of 'Clip and Collect'. The name is Spanish for downsizing.

Short stout sport route up steep corner immediately right of Petrelfied. Initially on flakey rock. Where it veers left into the hanging V corner splitting the prow, the climbing becomes much harder. Developed by Macfarlane/Judge.

Begin in the corner which is the start of 'Loose as a Goose' and after climbing for a couple of metres, break out onto the steep featured wall and up to a smooth face. Cruxy moves to a reachy deadpoint. Up the line.

Up the steep blocky wall and into the groove. Bridge this and then move around left onto the face and up.