Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Golden Bay 343 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: 172.791108, -40.740725

1.1. Paynes Ford 227 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 172.811248, -40.883897

Description:

Paynes Ford is predominantly single-pitch sport climbs on limestone. Angles vary from slippery slabs to massive roofs. Best online guide is http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson/golden-bay/paynes-ford

Access Issues:

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.

Approach:

Head for Takaka. About 2km before it, you'll cross a bridge: park in the carpark on the right, shortly before Hangdog Camp. From here, follow the main access trail. Smaller trails head up from this to the base of the crags.

Where To Stay:

Hangdog Camp is 5 minutes walk from the crag, or there are other options in Takaka. Hangdog also publish a cheap & cheerful guide to the grade 16-23 climbs for $10, available from the camp.

Ethic:

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

1.1.1. North End 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

All climbs in this area have been CLOSED and bolts removed at the instigation of the Dept of Conservation for environmental reasons

Access Issues:

No longer applicable

1.1.2. Creese Wall/Rawhide Roof 27 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Approach:

From the carpark, walk past the gate. At the toilets, turn left up the formed steps: This will bring you up under 'Rawhide'.

1.1.3. Rata Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.4. The Rat Trap Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.5. Stone Symposium Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.6. The Tenuite Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:

Follow the main embankment track until you see a small tag marked 3 on a track on your left (about 100-200m past toilets). Following this up will eventually bring you out at 'Grey Warbler'. Continue past along the cliff and up to reach the upper climbs.

1.1.7. Pantechicon Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.8. Carnage Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.9. Slave Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.10. Globe Wall 42 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.1.11. Tomorrow Gully 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.12. The Little Globe Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.13. The Embarkment 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.14. The Fortress 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.1.15. Passion Slab 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.16. The Little Lost Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.1.17. 1080 Gully 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.1.18. Wall of Thugs 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.19. Fish Wall/Rhinoceros Wall 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.20. Happy Hour Boulder 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.21. Red Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.2. Tarakohe 88 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.2.1. Cathedral Rock 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.2.2. The Huntley and Palmers Wafer 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.2.3. The Games Room 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.2.4. Sea Grass Wall 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.2.5. The black vegetable wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.6. bo peep slab 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.7. cosmic wunder krunch wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.8. dr livingstone wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.9. deep throat 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.10. count duckular wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.11. The Twighlight Zone 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.12. Shagadelic Buttress 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.13. Why? Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3. Cable Bay 28 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.1. The Slab 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.2. Sharks Tooth 13 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.3. The Graveyard 9 routes in Area

Summary: