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Access issues inherited from Paynes Ford

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.

Approach

From the carpark, walk past the gate. At the toilets, turn left up the formed steps: This will bring you up under 'Rawhide'.

Ethic inherited from Paynes Ford

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
AU 16 Blobbet Sport

The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive.

2

Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it.

3
AU 16 Re-election Blues Sport

In the scoop to the right of the previous two routes. Try and avoid getting lured onto the harder route here (details not known). Starts up the scoop before heading left?

4
AU 14 Golden Years Unknown

Shares a start with 'Re-election Blues', but continue up the scoop to chain.

FA: unknown

5
AU 14 * Midwife Crisis Sport 6

On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling.

6
AU 12 Calling All Hobbits Sport 1

1 bolt up the right arete to chain.

8
AU 19 Blockbuster Sport
9
AU 19 Bite My Chunk Sport
10

Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well.

11
AU 15 Gorgonzola Goes Sport 5

Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads.

12
AU 15 Cheddarmaster's Sport

Shares a start with 'Gorgonzola Goes', but heads a bit further right.

13
AU 19 Hula Yula Sport
14
AU 24 * Spotty Brit Sport
15
AU 20 * Tongue In Groove Sport
16
AU 22 * Sweet Dreams Sport
17
AU 18 Wasp Factor Sport
18
AU 18 Hunting Tartan Unknown 25m

FA: Willie Butler

19
AU 21 * Something Precious Sport
20
AU V4 Easiest Out Boulder

Climb the easiest way to the lip of the cave from the big chalked ledge at the back.

21
AU 22 *** Rawhide Sport 5

Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling.

22
AU 23 * Rumplestiltskin Sport
23
AU 24 * Golden Bay Connection Sport 16m
24
AU 21 Serac Attack Sport
25
AU 22 * Woop, Woop Pull Up Sport