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Table of contents

1. Creese Wall/Rawhide Roof 27 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport
Access Issues: inherited from Paynes Ford

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.

Approach:

From the carpark, walk past the gate. At the toilets, turn left up the formed steps: This will bring you up under 'Rawhide'.

Ethic: inherited from Paynes Ford

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blobbet

The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive.

16Sport
2 * Good Bye Cream-Poofters

Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it.

17Sport
3 Re-election Blues

In the scoop to the right of the previous two routes. Try and avoid getting lured onto the harder route here (details not known). Starts up the scoop before heading left?

16Sport
4 Golden Years

Shares a start with 'Re-election Blues', but continue up the scoop to chain.

FA: unknown

14Unknown
5 * Midwife Crisis

On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling.

14Sport 6
6 Calling All Hobbits

1 bolt up the right arete to chain.

12Sport 1
7 * Elvis Lives In Takaka 18Sport
8 Blockbuster 19Sport
9 Bite My Chunk 19Sport
10 * The Fearless Vampire Killers

Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well.

20Sport 3
11 Gorgonzola Goes

Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads.

15Sport 5
12 Cheddarmaster's

Shares a start with 'Gorgonzola Goes', but heads a bit further right.

15Sport
13 Hula Yula 19Sport
14 * Spotty Brit 24Sport
15 * Tongue In Groove 20Sport
16 * Sweet Dreams 22Sport
17 Wasp Factor 18Sport
18 Hunting Tartan

FA: Willie Butler

18Unknown 25m
19 * Something Precious 21Sport
20 Easiest Out

Climb the easiest way to the lip of the cave from the big chalked ledge at the back.

V4Boulder
21 *** Rawhide

Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling.

22Sport 5
22 * Rumplestiltskin 23Sport
23 * Golden Bay Connection 24Sport 16m
24 Serac Attack 21Sport
25 * Woop, Woop Pull Up 22Sport
26 * Last Call For Flight 911 21Sport
27 Bob and Betty go Mating 22Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 Calling All Hobbits Sport 1
14 Golden Years Unknown
* Midwife Crisis Sport 6
15 Cheddarmaster's Sport
Gorgonzola Goes Sport 5
16 Blobbet Sport
Re-election Blues Sport
17 * Good Bye Cream-Poofters Sport
18 * Elvis Lives In Takaka Sport
Hunting Tartan Unknown 25m
Wasp Factor Sport
19 Bite My Chunk Sport
Blockbuster Sport
Hula Yula Sport
20 * The Fearless Vampire Killers Sport 3
* Tongue In Groove Sport
21 * Last Call For Flight 911 Sport
Serac Attack Sport
* Something Precious Sport
22 Bob and Betty go Mating Sport
*** Rawhide Sport 5
* Sweet Dreams Sport
* Woop, Woop Pull Up Sport
23 * Rumplestiltskin Sport
V4 Easiest Out Boulder
24 * Golden Bay Connection Sport 16m
* Spotty Brit Sport