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Table of contents

1. Creese Wall/Rawhide Roof 28 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport
Access Issues: inherited from Paynes Ford

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.


From the carpark, walk past the gate. At the toilets, turn left up the formed steps: This will bring you up under 'Rawhide'.

Ethic: inherited from Paynes Ford

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blobbet

The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive.

16 Sport
2 * Good Bye Cream-Poofters

Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it.

17 Sport
3 Why Would You Wave At A One Armed Man On A Bicycle?

Up balancey arĂȘte, then tricky moves to top.

24 Sport 16m
4 Re-election Blues

In the scoop to the right of the previous two routes. Try and avoid getting lured onto the harder route here (details not known). Starts up the scoop before heading left?

16 Sport
5 Golden Years

Shares a start with 'Re-election Blues', but continue up the scoop to chain.

FA: unknown

14 Unknown
6 * Midwife Crisis

On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling.

14 Sport 6
7 Calling All Hobbits

1 bolt up the right arete to chain.

12 Sport 1
8 * Elvis Lives In Takaka 18 Sport
9 Blockbuster 19 Sport
10 Bite My Chunk 19 Sport
11 * The Fearless Vampire Killers

Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well.

20 Sport 3
12 Gorgonzola Goes

Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads.

15 Sport 5
13 Cheddarmaster's

Shares a start with 'Gorgonzola Goes', but heads a bit further right.

15 Sport
14 Hula Yula 19 Sport
15 * Spotty Brit 24 Sport
16 * Tongue In Groove 20 Sport
17 * Sweet Dreams 22 Sport
18 Wasp Factor 18 Sport
19 Hunting Tartan

FA: Willie Butler

18 Unknown 25m
20 * Something Precious 21 Sport
21 Easiest Out

Climb the easiest way to the lip of the cave from the big chalked ledge at the back.

V4 Boulder
22 *** Rawhide

Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling.

22 Sport 5
23 * Rumplestiltskin 23 Sport
24 * Golden Bay Connection 24 Sport 16m
25 Serac Attack 21 Sport
26 * Woop, Woop Pull Up 22 Sport
27 * Last Call For Flight 911 21 Sport
28 Bob and Betty go Mating 22 Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 Calling All Hobbits Sport 1
14 Golden Years Unknown
* Midwife Crisis Sport 6
15 Cheddarmaster's Sport
Gorgonzola Goes Sport 5
16 Blobbet Sport
Re-election Blues Sport
17 * Good Bye Cream-Poofters Sport
18 * Elvis Lives In Takaka Sport
Hunting Tartan Unknown 25m
Wasp Factor Sport
19 Bite My Chunk Sport
Blockbuster Sport
Hula Yula Sport
20 * The Fearless Vampire Killers Sport 3
* Tongue In Groove Sport
21 * Last Call For Flight 911 Sport
Serac Attack Sport
* Something Precious Sport
22 Bob and Betty go Mating Sport
*** Rawhide Sport 5
* Sweet Dreams Sport
* Woop, Woop Pull Up Sport
23 * Rumplestiltskin Sport
V4 Easiest Out Boulder
24 * Golden Bay Connection Sport 16m
* Spotty Brit Sport
Why Would You Wave At A One Armed Man On A Bicycle? Sport 16m