The Tenuite Wall All sport climbing

13 routes in area

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Access issues inherited from Paynes Ford

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.

Approach

Follow the main embankment track until you see a small tag marked 3 on a track on your left (about 100-200m past toilets). Following this up will eventually bring you out at 'Grey Warbler'. Continue past along the cliff and up to reach the upper climbs.

Ethic inherited from Paynes Ford

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
AU 21 Fluffy Duck Sport 3

Far left route

2

On upper Tenuite.

3
21 * Headplant Sport

On upper Tenuite.

4
20 Walk the line Sport 4

On upper Tenuite. Takes the yellow streak close to, but independent of Loose Unit.

FFA: 2006

FA: Simon Middlemass, 2006

5
20 * Loose Unit Sport

On upper Tenuite. Mostly on big holds, the hard part might be finding them. The bolt line 3m left of 'Go With the Flow'.

6
22 *** Go With the Flow Sport 5

On upper Tenuite. Start below the obvious tufa/flowstone formations, and follow the bolts up.

7
19 Fat Cats Sport

On upper Tenuite.

8

On upper Tenuite. Anchor the belayer to the two low FH at the right end of the wall, then head up past the bolts slightly right of this.

9
16 Badgers Mount Sport

On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge.

10
19 Bent Badgers Sport

On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge.

11

Just around the corner from 'Romancing The Stone' and 'Grey Warbler'.

12

High first bolt, then up to chains. 3m left of 'Grey Warbler'.

13
14 Grey Warbler Sport 2

The obvious slab with two bolts, just left of a wide diagonal crack/groove.