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This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Access issues inherited from Paines Ford

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.

Ethic inherited from Paines Ford

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 ★ Wrinkle Sport
2
18 ★ Candy Man Sport 18m
3
16 ★ Jerry Garcia Sport
4
21 ★★ Lost Soul Sport 11m
5
14 ★ Ecological Itch Sport 9m
6
16 ★ Doo-Little Sport 9m
7
15 ★ Wrong Trousers Sport 9m

3 bolts to anchor

8
12 Wobbly Bits Sport 9m
9
14 Lucy in the Sky With Prismatic Raindrops Sport 9m, 2
10
11 The Bell-ringer Sport
11
12 "Name Unknown" Unknown
12
12 Mind The Hebes Sport 9m
13
15 ★ Damsel In Dis-dress Sport
14
18 ★★ Nicknack Paddywack Sport
15
27 ★★★ Mea Culpa Sport 6

Once you get through the scuzzy stuff at the bottom the rock is beautiful, solid and high friction - it leads to some thought provoking moves!

Re-equipped in 2016 and a bolt was added to protect the run-out at the top.

16
21 ★ Bury Me In A Y Shaped Coffin Sport

Used to have an alternative grade 18 start in the squeeze chimney, now missing its bolts.

The start on the arete is still there to mystify climbers though.

Continue up the crack above to an anchor on the ledge.

17
18 ★ Release The Bats Sport

Used to be a fairly dodgy trad route, now fully bolted for your pleasure. Climb the corner with the wide crack all the way to the top of the headwall.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Little Lost Wall.