Crag Guide for Paynes Ford

very green

Be careful on this route, it may be short but has a nasty mono that has potential of hurting te...

short and bouldery. Better than it looks

dont blow the top or you'll deck.

Short but fun.

really balancy

First 19 onsite

Very punchy for 23! Just like the Frankenjura

My favorite route at Payne's Ford. Beautiful overhanging arete with some great big moves up high.

Oozy on a hot afternoon.

Easy start leads to slopey top

Really nice but all over too quickly

17 my arse

Nice finish.

Right variant was better

Interesting ribs.

Nice

Easy enough.

barefoot

Found the side-pull!

Bold moves on spaced bolts - good fun though

getting used to slopers

damn couldn't climb it statically, had to lunge for a sloper ugh!

slopy, pooed my pants

Hard, polished, shit.

Can't believe I climbed a 20 after 3 years of no climbing - thanks to the encouragement from belo...

lead after tr

No sure if this was the climb ... great to be back on rock! :)

my first climb at Paynes

2nd shot.

cool, foot sliped off, met my belayer

good fun...

First route at Paynes.

is everything polished an hard here?

superceded by Hunting Tartan

Tricky hidden slab!

Scary runout

blew it big time. 2nd go.

Nice roof and juggy bulge. Slab tricky.

did in rain, sloppy slab at top

hard to read. 2md go.

Not sure if this is the right route? Short and punchy!

good....in places

the traverse in was an adventure enough

Three grades easier than Bilbos - at least

welcome to paynes ford, nicenpumpy

rather tricky crux hold

Super thin and desperate. Almost fell off.

not that memorable

dirty and contrived.

Got sunburnt! Very slopey holds at start, gets better as you go up, with an awesome finish.

shipley is better.

the rebolted direct start to Ranger. Nails!

Some awesome parts, and rather scary

amazing

A link up of lots of climbs! Hard start.

Pretty much spaceinvader now.

also grey warbler, autumn leaf, romancing the stone

Hot desperate crimpers. Also got swarmed by bees.

More like 20 and not very good.

thanks very much for the late night hippy bastards...with your beer drinking, joint smokin bongo ...

Jugs and fun

Awesome the whole way - so many good holds

Dream warm-up route

I was working hard to manage the pump on this. Awesome!

My style - sustained but juggy

one fall

THIS IS WHAT U COME TO NZ FOR!!

Pinch and layback the rib!

FAT CATS FEEL HEAVY TODAY

Excellent

Bit boring because very much like Fat Cats... might be because of the common last 2 bolts :-)

Cool Exposure climbing over a void

with a name like that...it was always going to be hyper!

even better!....sandbag too!..best route at the ford!

Not one of my best

Hard and scary.

16+ in my book ?? run out too the first clip

not that great.

failed on the 17, too slippy

Dicky anchor placement, dont fall off getting to 3rd bolt.

nooish and spacey between bolts!

contrived, hard to not bridge off pillar, damn stout!

2 trips down the convex was enough... quiet a bit of anxiety on this, perhaps due to the excitin...

doesnt get any better...waiting for it to stop raining!

mung muuung, madi muuung MUNG!

One to come back for! Smashed putting the draws on.

nice

HONK HONK!!!

HONK!

super polished foothold for 1st move

Hard up to the second bolt. Short.

1 apprenticeship

Great slabbing

Not too bad

Great climbing with interesting features and clams.

A warm up.

My first 22, worked hard for it. Wasn't gonna have another burn cause of my recurring handpain, b...

MEGA

Dicky bolt and anchor position, who put it there?

sulking around waiting for crispy to put the draws on pays off!

Fantastic arete climb.

slippery little sucker

awsome bouldery moves of the deck. Cheers Olly

2nd shot, Hardest move is to get to the first bolt then a bit pumpy.

Very sustained with ultra pump crux right at top. 2 shots.

perfectly bolted when your pumped at the top

Soft crux with great climbing above.

I need another few weeks here! Low is very slippery

Interesting crux sequence and great slabbing.

an old dog off the list. Much more polished than last time

Not a crack!

My only project on the trip...so close yet so far...1 fall.

3rd shot,

Tough but top moves

Great moves.

I really want to do a proper climbing trip to NZ

2nd shot. Ran out of pump juice first try.

Low in the grade

tricky..3rd go.

the ultimate route, just power on sloper... guide book description is move 40 frame frames per se...

Classic pumper with great holds and great moves.

Is the flowstone out? Nice pocket!

Easier when fresh

Too tired to hang onto slopers any more.

Another classic 23, and probably the hardest. Foiled by a tangled draw.

soooo many tries. Very pumpy

Just classy.

hard

The draws were on so tried the moves..and actually did them! May have gotten some linkage next go...

26 if someone leaves tick marks on it

Don't know this route dos'nt get a star or two, great 3D climbing.

tough, 2nd shot

12m....2 bolts - wouldnt get a look in, at Thailand!! Paynes ford classic! 2nd go.

dirty these days

Golden Bay Climbs Pg 74

Awesome climb spoilt by all the mossy, limey goo all over it. If clean would rate some stars.

Slabby

Nothing special.

OK for a warm up or down.

barefoot

good climb, reachy up high

14 at most I thought.

Requires quite a bit of drying time.

Best route in this area, great sloper sequences.

udenson!!!....za monodoyde ja!!!

Hard start.

Quite nice.

A jug when you need it.

The better route of the two here.

well placed tree!

The tree looked well-worn.

rain day

rain day

never seen holds so big

"Lucy in the sky with prismatic raindrops"

rain day

Warm-up...up on lead and down on top rope, still nice.

rain day

Fun & strenouous start

Nice big holds all the way to the top.

fun little climb

bummed not to get the onsight, but was well worth a 2nd go!... good rock and tremendous location!

Surprisingly long roof climb! Last climb at Paynes.

awesome exposure

Had some issues with my head today.

SUper novelty fun. Just like Thailand!

overated?

Watch secong bolt, ground fall possible

ze monodoyde crux ja ja ja !!!.... could be quiet an ankle breaker if your not solid..

hidden jem!

definetly a 19

tricky to read..2nd go. how cool are flow stones!

very hard i thought