Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Closed North End | |||||
10 | Thelma
| ||||
10 | Louise
| ||||
22 | ★ Big Sharks At Night
| ||||
25 | Gangrene
| ||||
18 | ★★ Terror, Illness and Rebellion
| ||||
14 | Zen Navigation
| ||||
19 | ★ Herbal Infusion
| ||||
20 | ★ Checkmate
| ||||
23 | ★★ The Darling Buds Of May
| ||||
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof | |||||
16 | ★ Blobbet
The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive. | 14m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Goodbye Cream-Poofters
Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it. FA: Charlie Creese | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | ★ Why Would You Wave to a One-Armed Man Riding a Bike?
Up balancey arête on very small edges, then tricky moves to top. FA: unknown | 16m | |||
16 | ★ Re-election Blues
In the scoop to the right of the previous two routes. Try and avoid getting lured onto the harder route here (details not known). Starts up the scoop before heading left? | 16m | |||
15 | ★ Golden Years
Shares a start with 'Re-election Blues', but continue up the scoop to chain. FA: Phil Castle, 2005 | 16m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Midwife Crisis
On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling. FA: Kath Meek, 2001 | 14m, 6 | |||
12 | ★ Calling All Hobbits
1 bolt up the right arete to chain. FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 8m, 1 | |||
18 | ★★ Elvis Lives In Takaka
| 18m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Blockbuster
FA: Charlie Creese, 1982 | 18m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Bite My Chunk
| 18m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ The Fearless Vampire Killers
Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well. FA: Spence Pomeroy | 18m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Gorgonzola Goes
Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads. | 18m, 6 | |||
15 | ★ Cheddarmaster's
Shares a start with 'Gorgonzola Goes', but heads a bit further right. | 18m | |||
19 | ★ Hula Yula
| 14m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Spotty Brit
FA: John Row, 1996 | 14m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Tongue In Groove
FA: John Row, 1996 | 14m | |||
22 | ★ Sweet Dreams
FA: Colin Daniel, 1993 | 16m | |||
18 | Wasp Factor
| ||||
18 | ★ Hunting Tartan
FA: Willie Butler, 2002 | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Something Precious
FA: Dave Skilton, 1985 | 18m | |||
V4 | ★ Easiest Out
Climb the easiest way to the lip of the cave from the big chalked ledge at the back. | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Straight out
Climb straight out to the lip of the cave via big moves on positive holds. Start on the block/ledge at the back of the cave. | ||||
22 | ★★★ Rawhide
Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling. FA: Mike Rockell, 1987 | 18m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Rumplestiltskin
FA: Kristen Foley, 1993 | 18m | |||
24 | ★★ Golden Bay Connection
FA: Paul Rogers, 1995 | 16m | |||
21 | Serac Attack
FA: Phil Marsh, 1990 | ||||
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall | |||||
22 | Granulated Chicken Booster
FA: Chris Burtenshaw, 2000 | 8 | |||
18 | ★ Humpty Dumpty
FA: Willie Butler, 2000 | 3 | |||
21 | ★★ All The Kings Horses
2nd pitch to Humpty Dumpty, can be done as 1 pitch. FA: Willie Butler, 2000 | 5 | |||
22 | ★ Woop, Woop Pull Up
FA: Rob McLeod | ||||
21 | ★★ Last Call For Flight 911
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | ||||
20 | ★★ Bang Your Head
Pitch 2 of Last Call for Flight 911. FA: Lionel Clay, 1990 | ||||
22 | Bob and Betty go Mating
FA: Len Gilmore, 1986 | ||||
21 | ★ Tales By Firelight
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 25m, 8 | |||
20 | ★★ Rat up a Drainpipe
FA: Andrew Taylor, 1991 | 25m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Bilbos Great Adventure
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 24m, 8 | |||
21 | ★ No Rest For The Wicked
FA: Tony Stempa, 1992 | 22m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ The Immaculate Deception
FA: Ben Yates, 1996 | 21m, 7 | |||
Stone Symposium Wall | |||||
25 | ★ 7 Days a Week
Start on Lh- end of the ledge, climb the wall through roof on the Rh- side. FA: John Row, 2002 | 11 | |||
19 | ★★ Spitfire
Climb up to the ledge, where Seafire starts. FA: Willie Butler, 2002 | 20m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Seafire
Extension to Spitfire, starting from the ledge. FA: Willie Butler, 2002 | 10m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Jericho
FA: Pete Hunt, 1991 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Temples Of Stone
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 27m, 11 | |||
21 | ★★ Jimmy The Torn Piece of Paper
FA: Chris Butler & Jeremy Butler, 1997 | 10m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Space Invader
FA: Mike McManaway, 2007 | 28m | |||
26 | ★ Sunday Picnic
Start between Space Invader and R for Ranger. Jugs eventually give way to an extremely blank bulge. The grade is for climbing the line direct; moving right at the crux gets you 24 points. FA: Mike McManaway, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ R for Ranger, D for Danger
FA: Rob Gray, 1989 | 27m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Stone Symposium
FA: Rob Gray, 1989 | 27m | |||
18 | ★★ Stroking The Tiger
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 18m, 7 | |||
18 | ★ Wazzo Jugs
| 18m, 7 | |||
18 | ★ Autumn Leaf
| 18m | |||
19 | ★★ Sacred Forest
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | ||||
16 | Clutter and Vine
| ||||
15 | Rata Tui
| ||||
20 | ★★ Bang Your Head
| ||||
18 | ★ The Mot Boys' one
Starts at WJ belay and trends left. | 5 | |||
The Tenuite Wall | |||||
21 | ★ Fluffy Duck
Far left route FA: Willie Butler, 2002 | 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Hi I'm Doctor Terrific
On upper Tenuite. FA: Simon, 1992 | 14m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Headplant
On upper Tenuite. FA: Martin Wilson, 1992 | 14m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Walk the line
On upper Tenuite. Takes the yellow streak close to, but independent of Loose Unit. FFA: 2006 FA: Simon Middlemass, 2006 | 15m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Loose Unit
On upper Tenuite. Mostly on big holds, the hard part might be finding them. The bolt line 3m left of 'Go With the Flow'. FA: Kierston Price, 1992 | 15m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Go With the Flow
On upper Tenuite. Start below the obvious tufa/flowstone formations, and follow the bolts up. | 14m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Fat Cats
On upper Tenuite. FA: Simon, 1993 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ A Shout Towards Noon
On upper Tenuite. Anchor the belayer to the two low FH at the right end of the wall, then head up past the bolts slightly right of this. FA: Rick McGregor, 1992 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Badgers Mount
On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge. | ||||
19 | ★ Bent Badgers
On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge. | ||||
24 | That's Not My Name
FA: Michael Norman, 2008 | 4 | |||
22 | ★ Lapsed Catholics
Just around the corner from 'Romancing The Stone' and 'Grey Warbler'. | ||||
23 | Slap And Tickle
FA: Craig Alter, 2008 | 3 | |||
15 | ★ Romancing The Stone
High first bolt, then up to chains. 3m left of 'Grey Warbler'. On Lower Tenuite FA: Tony Clearwater, 1994 | 10m, 2 | |||
14 | Grey Warbler
The obvious slab with two bolts, just left of a wide diagonal crack/groove. On Lower Tenuite FA: Chris Butler & Jeremy Butler, 1995 | 8m, 2 | |||
25 | ★ Persistence Of Time
FA: Craig Alter, 2008 | 8 | |||
27 | Stallywag
FA: Rich Turner, 2008 | 7 | |||
16 | ★★★ Chicken Hawk
Yellowish crack left of the small roof. Use the roof for an added challenge. On Lower Tenuite FA: Willie Butler, 2001 | 10m, 4 | |||
17 | Yellow Hammer
FA: Willie Butler, 2001 | 3 | |||
Pantechicon Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Pousse Ton Froc
FA: Jean-Marc Roman & Dave Vass, 1993 | ||||
22 | ★ Happy Motoring
FA: Dave Vass, 1991 | ||||
23 | Electric Sunroof
FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1991 | ||||
Carnage Wall | |||||
18 | ★ Carnage at the Crossroads
FA: 1988 | 14m | |||
27 | ★ There Is No Spoon
FA: Ivan Vostinar, 1999 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Skiing Off A Convex Slope
FA: Colin Pohl, 1990 | 13m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Responsible Lunges
FA: Murray Hamilton | 13m, 5 | |||
13 | State Of Mind
FA: 1990 | ||||
16 | ★ State Of Mind Direct
| ||||
13 | Tunnels And Quarrying Act 1971
FA: Dave Chowdury, 1990 | ||||
Slave Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Primal Scream
Furthest left route on the wall, shares anchors with TP&aSF. | 9m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Three Poms And A Swedish Farafetta
| ||||
18 | ★ Dave's Belay Slave Gets Bored
Up the centre of the wall. FA: Ros Goulding, 1991 | 8m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Daves Belay Slave Gets Bored Direct start
direct start has its own bolt..crank on upwards! | 12m | |||
17 | ★ Bondage for Beginners
| 10m, 2 | |||
Globe Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Dread Fever
FA: Jenny Gallagher, 1992 | 10m |