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Routes in Paynes Ford

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 259 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Closed North End
10 Thelma
Sport
10 Louise
Sport
22 Big Sharks At Night
Sport
25 Gangrene
Sport
18 Terror, Illness and Rebellion
Sport
14 Zen Navigation
Sport
19 Herbal Infusion
Sport
20 Checkmate
Sport
23 The Darling Buds Of May
Sport
Creese Wall / Rawhide Roof
16 Blobbet

The line of bolts heading up from the far left hand end of the walking track. Deceptive.

Sport 14m, 4
17 Goodbye Cream-Poofters

Just to the right of 'Blobbet'. High first bolt with an easy but committing move to reach it.

FA: Charlie Creese

Sport 15m, 5
25 Why Would You Wave to a One-Armed Man Riding a Bike?

Up balancey arête on very small edges, then tricky moves to top.

FA: unknown

Sport 16m
16 Re-election Blues

In the scoop to the right of the previous two routes. Try and avoid getting lured onto the harder route here (details not known). Starts up the scoop before heading left?

Sport 16m
15 Golden Years

Shares a start with 'Re-election Blues', but continue up the scoop to chain.

FA: Phil Castle, 2005

Sport 16m, 4
14 Midwife Crisis

On a short wall next to 'Calling All Hobbits'. Follow the swarm of bolts to the top, but check the condition of the mallion before committing to lower off it. Consider abseiling.

FA: Kath Meek, 2001

Sport 14m, 6
12 Calling All Hobbits

1 bolt up the right arete to chain.

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995

Sport 8m, 1
18 Elvis Lives In Takaka
Sport 18m, 5
19 Blockbuster

FA: Charlie Creese, 1982

Sport 18m, 5
19 Bite My Chunk
Sport 18m, 5
20 The Fearless Vampire Killers

Identifiable by the stake hanging next to the first bolt, to the left of the obvious roof ('Rawhide'). Up and over the small roof, there's an optional thread as well.

FA: Spence Pomeroy

Sport 18m, 3
15 Gorgonzola Goes

Start just right of 'The Fearless Vampire Killers' and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff. Optional threads.

Sport 18m, 6
15 Cheddarmaster's

Shares a start with 'Gorgonzola Goes', but heads a bit further right.

Sport 18m
19 Hula Yula
Sport 14m, 3
24 Spotty Brit

FA: John Row, 1996

Sport 14m, 4
20 Tongue In Groove

FA: John Row, 1996

Sport 14m
22 Sweet Dreams

FA: Colin Daniel, 1993

Sport 16m
18 Wasp Factor
Sport
18 Hunting Tartan

FA: Willie Butler, 2002

Sport 25m
21 Something Precious

FA: Dave Skilton, 1985

Sport 18m
V4 Easiest Out

Climb the easiest way to the lip of the cave from the big chalked ledge at the back.

Boulder 4m
V8 Straight out

Climb straight out to the lip of the cave via big moves on positive holds. Start on the block/ledge at the back of the cave.

Boulder
22 Rawhide

Stick-clip the hanger out on the lip. Once you reach this, head up and over the pyramid of rock (2FH). There are 2 more FH on the final slab before the chains. Rope drag when lowering is pretty bad: consider abseiling.

FA: Mike Rockell, 1987

Sport 18m, 5
23 Rumplestiltskin

FA: Kristen Foley, 1993

Sport 18m
24 Golden Bay Connection

FA: Paul Rogers, 1995

Sport 16m
21 Serac Attack

FA: Phil Marsh, 1990

Sport
Rata Wall / Rat Trap Wall
22 Granulated Chicken Booster

FA: Chris Burtenshaw, 2000

Sport 8
18 Humpty Dumpty

FA: Willie Butler, 2000

Sport 3
21 All The Kings Horses

2nd pitch to Humpty Dumpty, can be done as 1 pitch.

FA: Willie Butler, 2000

Sport 5
22 Woop, Woop Pull Up

FA: Rob McLeod

Sport
21 Last Call For Flight 911

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995

Sport
20 Bang Your Head

Pitch 2 of Last Call for Flight 911.

FA: Lionel Clay, 1990

Sport
22 Bob and Betty go Mating

FA: Len Gilmore, 1986

Sport
21 Tales By Firelight

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995

Sport 25m, 8
20 Rat up a Drainpipe

FA: Andrew Taylor, 1991

Sport 25m, 8
21 Bilbos Great Adventure

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995

Sport 24m, 8
21 No Rest For The Wicked

FA: Tony Stempa, 1992

Sport 22m, 7
23 The Immaculate Deception

FA: Ben Yates, 1996

Sport 21m, 7
Stone Symposium Wall
25 7 Days a Week

Start on Lh- end of the ledge, climb the wall through roof on the Rh- side.

FA: John Row, 2002

Sport 11
19 Spitfire

Climb up to the ledge, where Seafire starts.

FA: Willie Butler, 2002

Sport 20m, 6
21 Seafire

Extension to Spitfire, starting from the ledge.

FA: Willie Butler, 2002

Sport 10m, 4
22 Jericho

FA: Pete Hunt, 1991

Sport
18 Temples Of Stone

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995

Sport 27m, 11
21 Jimmy The Torn Piece of Paper

FA: Chris Butler & Jeremy Butler, 1997

Sport 10m, 4
20 Space Invader

FA: Mike McManaway, 2007

Sport 28m
26 Sunday Picnic

Start between Space Invader and R for Ranger. Jugs eventually give way to an extremely blank bulge. The grade is for climbing the line direct; moving right at the crux gets you 24 points.

FA: Mike McManaway, 2013

Sport 15m, 5
21 R for Ranger, D for Danger

FA: Rob Gray, 1989

Sport 27m, 4
21 Stone Symposium

FA: Rob Gray, 1989

Sport 27m
18 Stroking The Tiger

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995

Sport 18m, 7
18 Wazzo Jugs
Sport 18m, 7
18 Autumn Leaf
Sport 18m
19 Sacred Forest

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995

Sport
16 Clutter and Vine
Sport
15 Rata Tui
Sport
20 Bang Your Head
Sport
18 The Mot Boys' one

Starts at WJ belay and trends left.

Sport 5
The Tenuite Wall
21 Fluffy Duck

Far left route

FA: Willie Butler, 2002

Sport 3
20 Hi I'm Doctor Terrific

On upper Tenuite.

FA: Simon, 1992

Sport 14m, 4
21 Headplant

On upper Tenuite.

FA: Martin Wilson, 1992

Sport 14m, 4
20 Walk the line

On upper Tenuite. Takes the yellow streak close to, but independent of Loose Unit.

FFA: 2006

FA: Simon Middlemass, 2006

Sport 15m, 4
20 Loose Unit

On upper Tenuite. Mostly on big holds, the hard part might be finding them. The bolt line 3m left of 'Go With the Flow'.

FA: Kierston Price, 1992

Sport 15m, 3
22 Go With the Flow

On upper Tenuite. Start below the obvious tufa/flowstone formations, and follow the bolts up.

Sport 14m, 4
19 Fat Cats

On upper Tenuite.

FA: Simon, 1993

Sport 15m
16 A Shout Towards Noon

On upper Tenuite. Anchor the belayer to the two low FH at the right end of the wall, then head up past the bolts slightly right of this.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1992

Sport 15m
16 Badgers Mount

On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge.

Sport
19 Bent Badgers

On upper Tenuite. Access by climbing the first bolt of 'A Shout Towards Noon' then heading across the next ledge.

Sport
24 That's Not My Name

FA: Michael Norman, 2008

Sport 4
22 Lapsed Catholics

Just around the corner from 'Romancing The Stone' and 'Grey Warbler'.

Sport
23 Slap And Tickle

FA: Craig Alter, 2008

Sport 3
15 Romancing The Stone

High first bolt, then up to chains. 3m left of 'Grey Warbler'. On Lower Tenuite

FA: Tony Clearwater, 1994

Sport 10m, 2
14 Grey Warbler

The obvious slab with two bolts, just left of a wide diagonal crack/groove. On Lower Tenuite

FA: Chris Butler & Jeremy Butler, 1995

Sport 8m, 2
25 Persistence Of Time

FA: Craig Alter, 2008

Sport 8
27 Stallywag

FA: Rich Turner, 2008

Sport 7
16 Chicken Hawk

Yellowish crack left of the small roof. Use the roof for an added challenge. On Lower Tenuite

FA: Willie Butler, 2001

Sport 10m, 4
17 Yellow Hammer

FA: Willie Butler, 2001

Sport 3
Pantechicon Wall
27 Pousse Ton Froc

FA: Jean-Marc Roman & Dave Vass, 1993

Sport
22 Happy Motoring

FA: Dave Vass, 1991

Sport
23 Electric Sunroof

FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1991

Sport
Carnage Wall
18 Carnage at the Crossroads

FA: 1988

Sport 14m
27 There Is No Spoon

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 1999

Sport
25 Skiing Off A Convex Slope

FA: Colin Pohl, 1990

Sport 13m, 4
25 Responsible Lunges

FA: Murray Hamilton

Sport 13m, 5
13 State Of Mind

FA: 1990

Sport
16 State Of Mind Direct
Sport
13 Tunnels And Quarrying Act 1971

FA: Dave Chowdury, 1990

Sport
Slave Wall
23 Primal Scream

Furthest left route on the wall, shares anchors with TP&aSF.

Sport 9m, 2
21 Three Poms And A Swedish Farafetta
Sport
18 Dave's Belay Slave Gets Bored

Up the centre of the wall.

FA: Ros Goulding, 1991

Sport 8m, 2
21 Daves Belay Slave Gets Bored Direct start

direct start has its own bolt..crank on upwards!

Sport 12m
17 Bondage for Beginners
Sport 10m, 2
Globe Wall
14 Dread Fever

FA: Jenny Gallagher, 1992

Sport 10m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 259 routes.

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