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Table of contents

1. Inland Canterbury 141 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 171.181487, -43.661275

1.1. Redcliffe 31 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.1. Andy's Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tea & Stickies 20Sport
2 Bread & Butter 15Sport

1.1.2. Fence Buttress 4 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Feeling the Pinch 23Sport
2 Crunch Time 23Sport
3 * Crinkle Cut 23Sport
4 * Slipstone 22Sport

1.1.3. Top Cliff 13 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Last Bus to Hale Bob 25Sport
2 Split Personality 20Sport
3 Monkey See 22Sport
4 Bottle Shop 25Sport
5 Hard Rock Café 21Sport
6 * Shell Shop 21Sport 22m
7 ** First Among Sequels 23Sport
8 Spiny Norman 23Sport
9 Dinsdale 20Sport
10 *** Smith City 22Sport 10m
11 * Super value 23Sport
12 ** Armourguard 26Sport
13 * Price Chopper 21Sport

1.1.4. Shopping Basket 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stretch's Seventeen 16Sport
2 * Dollar Wise 20Sport
3 *** Mobil Mart 23Sport 14m
4 The Wide Crack 16Sport
5 * Today's Special 22Sport

1.1.5. Lionel's Bluff 4 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Verdid 23Sport
2 *** Verdone 22Sport 25m
3 ** Vernicious Knid 23Sport
4 * Versed 24Sport

1.1.6. Black Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Black Slabbeth 23Sport

1.1.7. The Crossley Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Soft Touch 20Sport
2 Crunchie 21Sport

1.2. Mt Somers 83 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad
Description:

Sub-alpine area, has some of the best cracks and volcanic columns (The rhyolite columns were forced up 136 million years ago) in the South Island. . If trad. is not your preference, the pinnacles area is fully bolted.

Approach:

Nearest major town is Methven - drive to the sharplin falls/staveluy turn off and travel to the Sharplin Falls car park. Take the track to the Pinnacles Hut (not the Mt Somers hut), take the high track over Dukes Knob. The first section is steep trail, but after 30 min. it levels out along the river and it is usually a 2.5hr walk to the Pinnacle Hut with a heavy pack.

1.2.1. The Pinnacles 47 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad
1.2.1.1. East Pinnacle 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crunchie Nuggets 16Sport
2 Hokey Pokey 19Sport
3 Pixie Caramel 19Sport
4 Hound Dog 20Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Perky Nana 16Sport 9
6 whipped cream 15Sport
1.2.1.2. Central Pinnacle 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rocky Horror Show 2p 21Sport
2 ** Rocky Road 3p 20Sport
3 Send the Bill 21Sport
1.2.1.3. West Pinnacle 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Soap On A Rope 17Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Same, Same But Different

20m - steep edgy climbing, leds to a ramble up the slab

17Sport 4
3 Fresh Start, Dude 22Sport
4 Zephyr

A nice adventure and a good intro. to this type of rock. P1 - 22m, up the end of the pinnacle to P2 - 23m, the rock deterioates on this pitch. Follow the grove and move onto the rounded top.

15Sport 17
5 Cloak and Dagger 14Sport
6 Nameless Girl 16Sport
1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Strong

22m - pull through the bulge and then up the easy slap to the top

16Sport 6
2 Silent 17Sport
3 Type 16Sport
4 Eh? 22Sport
5 Frisky 19Sport
6 Foxy 22Sport
7 Zesty 23Sport
8 Feisty 25Unknown
9 Bart's Climb 12Unknown
10 High Step 20Unknown
1.2.1.5. Christian Principals Crag 7 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sunday School Felching 16Unknown
2 Buns Of Steel 19Unknown
3 Screams In The Night 17Unknown
4 Sleeping With The Nasty Boys 16Unknown
5 Corporal Punishment 16Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 The Staircase

31m - Long twin crack leads to antics through the roof 1/2 way up. Delicate moves up the slap to a right ish exit.

17Trad
7 Six of the Best 17Unknown
1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Springtime Festival In Autumn 17Unknown
2 Spare Rib 14Unknown
3 Weta Waltz 15Unknown 16m
4 Misty Mountain Hop 17Unknown
5 * Frankfurter Duet 14Unknown 15m
6 Saveloy Heaven 14Unknown 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 * Beef-Flavoured Sausages

15m - the right most groove on this section of wall

13Trad 15m
8 Porno Star 16Unknown
1.2.1.7. Fog Buttress 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Terrible Tales Of Teenage Angst 20Unknown
2 Parthenope 16Unknown
3 Bucket Of Fino 16Unknown
4 Foggy Notion 15Unknown
5 Watch The Itchy Gobo Blow 13Unknown
6 Scuttle 13Unknown
1.2.1.8. Honey Comb Rock 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bit Of A Buzz 17Unknown

1.2.2. Upper Cliffs 36 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport
1.2.2.1. Orange Wall 13 routes in Area
Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad
Description:

Thus shinny wall looks down on the hut. The crack lines are Mt Somers draw card and thus there are some excellent routes. Take lots of wires and a range of small-mid cams and enjoy.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 thats us Baby

FA: Margrette Alm, Tom Johns

12Unknown 60m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 What's Up Doc?

38m - Mixed : A ling grove with 2 distinct sections. Start up the crack with minimum pro. At the bushes follwo the bolts up the face and the arete.

19Sport 35m, 8
3 * Have You Been Stung?

38m - Mixed. Climb past the bolts under the protruding block and then up the crack. The gear is good, but its often tempting to escape to near-by bolts

19Sport
4 Steady Eddie 23Unknown
5 *** A La Weta 25Unknown 35m
6 Uno 21Trad
7 Skate 22Unknown
8 Snapper 25Unknown
9 Groper 23Unknown
10 * Orange Roughy

32m - Mixed. Start up Kentucky Fried Kea and traverse right at the horizontal break. The remainder of the climb follows the bolted arete.

16Sport 40m, 4
11 Red Herring 16Unknown
12 Dogfish 15Unknown
13 Sardine

31m - A long consistent crack, that takes wires and small cams. Most clip the 1st bolt on dogfish before moving right on the crack.

15Trad
1.2.2.2. The Fortress 8 routes in Area
Summary:
Unknown and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scimitar 21Unknown
2 Banana Split 20Trad
3 Mississippi Mud Cake 17Trad
4 Black Velvet Sin 18Unknown
5 Hotline To Jim 17Unknown 50m
6 0800 Butch 23Unknown
7 Psychological Trauma 24Unknown
8 Crackline 3p 19Unknown
1.2.2.3. The Waterfall Wall 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Wailing Wall 22Unknown 50m
2 Tsunami 24Unknown
3 Hang Ten 25Unknown
4 Pipeline 23Unknown
1.2.2.4. The Far Side 11 routes in Area
Summary:
Unknown and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Far Side Buttress

32m - the enticing splitter crack , up the buttress. 2nd crack form the left

19Trad
2 New Age Deceit 21Unknown
3 Dubious Means 24Unknown
4 The Contortionist 22Unknown
5 Pain and Pleasure 24Unknown
6 Gecko 21Unknown
7 The Far Side of Never 21Unknown
8 The Longest Hardest Climb... 21Unknown
9 Once A Jolly Swagman 20Trad
10 * Where's My Jolly Jumbuck?

32m - from the last belay of swagman, traverse right and up the next groove. Re-join the swagman route at the top ledge.

19Trad
11 Koala In A Coolibah Tree 21Unknown

1.3. Cloudy Peak 27 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.1. Hourglass Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slip-sliding Away 15Unknown 190m
2 ** Ytivarg 17Unknown 240m
3 The United States in Mind 18Unknown
4 Hourglass Right 16Unknown 300m
5 Hourglass Left 19Unknown 280m
6 When The Snow Melts 21Unknown
7 Big Dipper 25Unknown 310m
8 When The Fog Lifts 17Unknown 80m
9 ** Fiddler on the Roof 20Unknown 300m
10 Mission Impossible 17Unknown 330m
11 * Mission Accomplished 19Unknown

1.3.2. Centre Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Unbeliever 22Unknown 180m
2 Demondim 24Unknown 160m
3 The Groke 17Unknown 400m
4 * Golly Rodger 20Unknown 400m

1.3.3. Onslow Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sky-Lab 24Unknown
2 * Creature Comfort 21Unknown

1.3.4. Little Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Overkill 14Unknown 35m
2 Kick Out The Jams 17Unknown

1.3.5. Ferrar Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zero the Hero 14Unknown
2 Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter 10Unknown

1.3.6. Upper Walls 6 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Great Prow 14Unknown 350m
2 * Prowess 19Unknown
3 McC's Crack 15Unknown 300m
4 ** Needle Direct 16Unknown 210m
5 Windwhistle Arete 21Unknown 60m
6 * Southwest Ridge 15Unknown 150m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter Unknown 1.3.5. Ferrar Wall
12 Bart's Climb Unknown 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
thats us Baby Unknown 60m 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
13 * Beef-Flavoured Sausages Trad 15m 1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall
Scuttle Unknown 1.2.1.7. Fog Buttress
Watch The Itchy Gobo Blow Unknown 1.2.1.7. Fog Buttress
14 Cloak and Dagger Sport 1.2.1.3. West Pinnacle
* Frankfurter Duet Unknown 15m 1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall
Saveloy Heaven Unknown 15m 1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall
Spare Rib Unknown 1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall
Overkill Unknown 35m 1.3.4. Little Wall
Zero the Hero Unknown 1.3.5. Ferrar Wall
** The Great Prow Unknown 350m 1.3.6. Upper Walls
15 Bread & Butter Sport 1.1.1. Andy's Rock
whipped cream Sport 1.2.1.1. East Pinnacle
Zephyr Sport 17 1.2.1.3. West Pinnacle
Weta Waltz Unknown 16m 1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall
Foggy Notion Unknown 1.2.1.7. Fog Buttress
Dogfish Unknown 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Sardine Trad 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Slip-sliding Away Unknown 190m 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
McC's Crack Unknown 300m 1.3.6. Upper Walls
* Southwest Ridge Unknown 150m 1.3.6. Upper Walls
16 Stretch's Seventeen Sport 1.1.4. Shopping Basket
The Wide Crack Sport 1.1.4. Shopping Basket
Crunchie Nuggets Sport 1.2.1.1. East Pinnacle
Perky Nana Sport 9 1.2.1.1. East Pinnacle
Nameless Girl Sport 1.2.1.3. West Pinnacle
Strong Sport 6 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
Type Sport 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
Corporal Punishment Unknown 1.2.1.5. Christian Principals Crag
Sleeping With The Nasty Boys Unknown 1.2.1.5. Christian Principals Crag
Sunday School Felching Unknown 1.2.1.5. Christian Principals Crag
Porno Star Unknown 1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall
Bucket Of Fino Unknown 1.2.1.7. Fog Buttress
Parthenope Unknown 1.2.1.7. Fog Buttress
* Orange Roughy Sport 40m, 4 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Red Herring Unknown 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Hourglass Right Unknown 300m 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
** Needle Direct Unknown 210m 1.3.6. Upper Walls
17 * Same, Same But Different Sport 4 1.2.1.3. West Pinnacle
Soap On A Rope Sport 1.2.1.3. West Pinnacle
Silent Sport 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
Screams In The Night Unknown 1.2.1.5. Christian Principals Crag
Six of the Best Unknown 1.2.1.5. Christian Principals Crag
The Staircase Trad 1.2.1.5. Christian Principals Crag
A Springtime Festival In Autumn Unknown 1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall
Misty Mountain Hop Unknown 1.2.1.6. The Meat Grinder Wall
Bit Of A Buzz Unknown 1.2.1.8. Honey Comb Rock
Hotline To Jim Unknown 50m 1.2.2.2. The Fortress
Mississippi Mud Cake Trad 1.2.2.2. The Fortress
Mission Impossible Unknown 330m 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
When The Fog Lifts Unknown 80m 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
** Ytivarg Unknown 240m 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
The Groke Unknown 400m 1.3.2. Centre Wall
Kick Out The Jams Unknown 1.3.4. Little Wall
18 Black Velvet Sin Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Fortress
The United States in Mind Unknown 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
19 Hokey Pokey Sport 1.2.1.1. East Pinnacle
Pixie Caramel Sport 1.2.1.1. East Pinnacle
Frisky Sport 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
Buns Of Steel Unknown 1.2.1.5. Christian Principals Crag
* Have You Been Stung? Sport 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
What's Up Doc? Sport 35m, 8 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Crackline 3p Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Fortress
* The Far Side Buttress Trad 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
* Where's My Jolly Jumbuck? Trad 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
Hourglass Left Unknown 280m 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
* Mission Accomplished Unknown 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
* Prowess Unknown 1.3.6. Upper Walls
20 Tea & Stickies Sport 1.1.1. Andy's Rock
Dinsdale Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
Split Personality Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
* Dollar Wise Sport 1.1.4. Shopping Basket
Soft Touch Sport 1.1.7. The Crossley Wall
Hound Dog Sport 1.2.1.1. East Pinnacle
** Rocky Road 3p Sport 1.2.1.2. Central Pinnacle
High Step Unknown 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
Terrible Tales Of Teenage Angst Unknown 1.2.1.7. Fog Buttress
Banana Split Trad 1.2.2.2. The Fortress
Once A Jolly Swagman Trad 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
** Fiddler on the Roof Unknown 300m 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
* Golly Rodger Unknown 400m 1.3.2. Centre Wall
21 Hard Rock Café Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
* Price Chopper Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
* Shell Shop Sport 22m 1.1.3. Top Cliff
Crunchie Sport 1.1.7. The Crossley Wall
Rocky Horror Show 2p Sport 1.2.1.2. Central Pinnacle
Send the Bill Sport 1.2.1.2. Central Pinnacle
Uno Trad 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Scimitar Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Fortress
Gecko Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
Koala In A Coolibah Tree Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
New Age Deceit Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
The Far Side of Never Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
The Longest Hardest Climb... Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
When The Snow Melts Unknown 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
* Creature Comfort Unknown 1.3.3. Onslow Wall
Windwhistle Arete Unknown 60m 1.3.6. Upper Walls
22 * Slipstone Sport 1.1.2. Fence Buttress
Monkey See Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
*** Smith City Sport 10m 1.1.3. Top Cliff
* Today's Special Sport 1.1.4. Shopping Basket
*** Verdone Sport 25m 1.1.5. Lionel's Bluff
Fresh Start, Dude Sport 1.2.1.3. West Pinnacle
Eh? Sport 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
Foxy Sport 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
Skate Unknown 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
** Wailing Wall Unknown 50m 1.2.2.3. The Waterfall Wall
The Contortionist Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
* Unbeliever Unknown 180m 1.3.2. Centre Wall
23 * Crinkle Cut Sport 1.1.2. Fence Buttress
Crunch Time Sport 1.1.2. Fence Buttress
Feeling the Pinch Sport 1.1.2. Fence Buttress
** First Among Sequels Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
Spiny Norman Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
* Super value Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
*** Mobil Mart Sport 14m 1.1.4. Shopping Basket
*** Verdid Sport 1.1.5. Lionel's Bluff
** Vernicious Knid Sport 1.1.5. Lionel's Bluff
* Black Slabbeth Sport 1.1.6. Black Wall
Zesty Sport 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
Groper Unknown 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Steady Eddie Unknown 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
0800 Butch Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Fortress
Pipeline Unknown 1.2.2.3. The Waterfall Wall
24 * Versed Sport 1.1.5. Lionel's Bluff
Psychological Trauma Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Fortress
Tsunami Unknown 1.2.2.3. The Waterfall Wall
Dubious Means Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
Pain and Pleasure Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Far Side
Demondim Unknown 160m 1.3.2. Centre Wall
* Sky-Lab Unknown 1.3.3. Onslow Wall
25 Bottle Shop Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
Last Bus to Hale Bob Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff
Feisty Unknown 1.2.1.4. Hut Pinnacle
*** A La Weta Unknown 35m 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Snapper Unknown 1.2.2.1. Orange Wall
Hang Ten Unknown 1.2.2.3. The Waterfall Wall
Big Dipper Unknown 310m 1.3.1. Hourglass Wall
26 ** Armourguard Sport 1.1.3. Top Cliff