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Table of contents

1. Kawakawa Bay 84 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Deep Water

Long/Lat: 175.867246, -38.668114

1.1. Cracks Wall 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 175.871851, -38.665654

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jabba the Hut

The left-facing corner near a Kanuka tree. Bridge and pull through the easy roof, then up and traverse right near the top (don't go between the trees), finishing up The Slot Machine.

FA: Heather Brockway, 2005

14 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * The Slot Machine

FA: S King, C Ellery, 2005

17 Trad 15m
3 ** Sunset Boulevard

FA: M Thom, 2005

18 Trad 18m
4 ** Outboard Crack

The right-facing corner and crack system, fun and solid at the grade.

FA: Matt Thom,Kevin Barratt, 2005

17 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Lizard King

FA: Stephan King, 2005

24 Sport 20m, 7
6 *** Flake 7

The long flake/crack with a small roof low down. Move right around the roof and step up the ledges, then balancy but well protected moves onto the face. Continue more easily up the crack to the DBC belay.

FA: Stephen King, 2005

18 Trad 20m
7 Critters Corner

The long open book corner and thin crack. Start up the unprotected slab to gain the corner. Clip the first 2 bolts of Great Scott if you aren't game for that.

FA: Stephen King, 2005

18 R Trad 25m
8 Great Scott

FA: John Dawkins, 2006

20 Sport 27m
9 ** Blindmans Bluff

The crack immediately left of The Gecko Groove.

FA: Matt Thom, 2005

17 Trad 28m
10 ** The Gecko Groove

The right hand crack system 3 meters left of the arete. Save your big gear for the top section. An excellent climb. A recent strange euro abseil-basket thingy is at least an improvement over the old "tree" belay.

FA: Stephen King, 2004

16 Trad 28m
11 ** Rohans Arete

FA: Stephen King, 2004

22 Sport 28m, 11
12 Back to the Future

FA: Martyn Owen, 2006

25 Sport 20m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Mr Bastard

FA: Stephen King, 2006

20 Trad 12m
14 * Rohans Little Sister

FA: Heather Brockway

16 Sport 12m, 4

1.2. The Bluff 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.868106, -38.667705

1.2.1. The Lower Bluff 22 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 175.867913, -38.667752

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Kykkeliky

Pronounced KOO-kee-lee-KOO. Climb the wide flaring chimney/crack left of Jug Addiction, continue through the cave (runout) and a steeper layback finish. Tree or gear belay, and easy walk up to the bottom of Sex Panther.

17 Trad 25m
2 Bi’Lingual

FA: Erick Johnnson, 2006

17 Mixed 20m, 4
3 * Jug Addiction

FA: Heather Brockway, 2006

16 Sport 20m, 8
4 Unknown

Bolted line to the right of 'Jug Addiction'.

17 Sport 20m, 5
5 Pimple

Up scooped holds to the arete and face. Step left under the flax bush at the top to reach the chains.

17 Sport 15m
6 My Little Pony

Easy, short and generously bolted.

10 Sport 6m
7 Pink Fluffy Unicorns

Continue up the bolted arete above My Little Pony.

15 Sport 12m
8 Dancing on Rainbows

Up the pocketed face right of My Little Pony, then tend right and back left to the Pink Fluffy Unicorns anchors. Nuts, cams and hexes in pockets, good for teaching less standard placements and gear extension.

14 Trad 12m
9 Little Miss Naughty

From the end of the wall right of Dancing on Rainbows, climb up and generally left to the same anchors. Gear in pockets.

17 Trad 12m
10 Peach Teats 15 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Dont Hurt my Kowhai

FA: Steven McInally, Stephen King, 2006

18 Mixed 55m, 9
12 Iboga

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, Matt Thom, 2006

17 Mixed 30m, 1
13 * The Medicine

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, 2006

18 Mixed 45m, 1
14 * Ayahuasca

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, Carsten Rabe, 2006

18 Trad 45m
15 * Predator

FA: Stephen King, 2004

22 Sport 12m, 5
16 ** The Devil Has a Window Into Paradise

Grovel up the dirty gully to the right of Jug addiction/Peach teats until you reach an aesthetic overhang.

Pitch 1 (13) Bridge up the chimeny using generous foot-holds. Mantle the ledge to your right and build an anchor 3m to the left of Jugzilla bolts.

Pitch 2 (18) (Also the third pitch of ThunderGod) Follow the right tending crack for ~5 meters and then climb the featured face straight up. Exposed but well protected climbing with some cool moves!

FA: P1: Nik Martinelli, Gerard Tarr; P2 Gerard Tarr, Isaac Tracey, 2012

18 Trad 35m 2
17 * Jugzilla

Pitch 1 (17), 30m: Up the very juggy slightly overhanging arete above the gully to a DBC anchor on the face. You can abseil off from here, or Pitch 2 (21), 12m: Climb up and right on the face, move back left to the DBC anchor shared with Thunder God.

FA: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr, 2012

21 Sport 42m 2, 13
18 * Aliens

FA: Stephen King, 2005

21 Sport 20m, 9
19 Pointy Bit

FA: Stephen King, 2004

15 Sport 6m, 2
20 Aliens Resurrection 21 Sport 2
21 ** ThunderGod

Pitch 1 (21): Up overlap to the slab, then left and follow a crack though steep rock between the left arete and the pink wall. Sustained through the top half (crux). Pitch 2 (14): up and left following the easy splitter hand crack. Pitch 3 (18): Build an anchor 3m left of the Jugzilla anchors, climb up to reach a seam and follow that diagonally right 5m, mantle the spike and head straight up. Exposed but well protected.

FA: Dan Head,Gerard Tarr,Isaac Tracey, 2012

21 Trad 52m 3
22 *** Captain Caveman

A rad adventure through the bowels of the cliff. Originally run out trad, now fully retrobolted but really shines as a mostly-trad mixed route. P1, 17: Up the rough slab, a few balancy moves, then sneak into the start of the cave and belay. Gear available most of the way. P2, 16: Walk around the back of the cave, optionally build a trad anchor below the chimney, then bridge up into the enticing darkness until you can exit via a small hole to a nice belay. Adequate gear can be found past the 2nd bolt. P3, 20: Straight up then over slabby ground, left past a small overlap then grunt through the top overhang on jugs. Decent protection can be arranged the whole way but bolts are right there if you want them.

FA: Dan Head,Gerard Tarr, 2014

20 Mixed 55m 3, 24

1.2.2. The Upper Bluff 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.868419, -38.667647

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sex Panther

First pitch is bolted, second is Trad.

FA: Jono McDonald, Stephen King, 2006

18 Mixed 40m 2, 6
2 ** Alter of Madness

FA: Steven King, 2007

25 Sport 25m, 7
3 * Morbid Vision

FA: Steven King, 2007

27 Sport 25m, 8
4 Be Rude Not To

FA: John Pellew, 2007

22 Sport 8m, 3
5 ** Imaculate Conception

FA: John Pellew, 2007

27 Sport 25m, 10
6 * Selective Hearing

FA: Cliff Ellery, 2007

21 Trad 25m
7 Recycling Nachos

FA: Steven McInally, 2007

22 Sport 20m, 6

1.3. Elephant Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 175.867511, -38.667987

Approach:

Turn left to a vague track up from the Point track, just after the turnoff to the Bluff. Alternately follow the track down for about 30m past Captain Caveman from the Lower Bluff.

1.3.1. Lower 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Taniwha Crackdown

Traverse diagonally left behind the trees, then up through the disconnected crack system then tend right to reach a reasonably stout manuka tree (possible belay). If rope drag has been well-managed it is possible to continue up to the Elephant Hunting chains to belay, and possibly up the final short pitch of that to rap anchors.

17 Trad 20m
2 Elephant Hunting

The obvious left-leaning crack line starting at the corner of the buttress.

19 Trad 25m

1.3.2. Upper 0 routes in Sector

1.4. Little Red Riding Hood Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.867444, -38.668513

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snake Charmer

FA: Stephen Burrows, Cliff Ellery, 2006

19 Sport 15m, 4
2 Bouldering on Trad

FA: Matt Natti, 2006

19 Trad 6m
3 Ring Bolt Roof

FA: Steven McInally, 2006

22 Sport 8m, 2

1.5. The Point 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Deep Water

Long/Lat: 175.867348, -38.669866

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mellow Yellow

FA: Stephen King, Steven McInally, 2006

15 Sport 35m 3, 10
2 Sunday School

Can be used as an alternative to the first pitch of 'Mellow Yellow'. Crux after the 3rd bolt.

20 Sport 17m, 4
3 * Yellow Submarine

Climb/jam the left crack, continue past trees to large block, exit left to Mellow Yellow anchors

FA: Rob Addis, Dan Head, Savannah Joseph, 2011

13 Trad 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 ** The Sweet and the Savage

FA: Stephen King, Matt Thom, 2005

18 Trad 30m
5 Fistula

Direct start to 'The Sweet and the Savage'

FA: Daniel Joll, Ruben Hull, 2006

19 Trad 28m
6 * All Aussie Adventures

Pitch 1 (15), 27m: Climb the crack and move left to the arete, continuing past 5 bolts and a wire placement, finish up the top crack of The Sweet and the Savage. Pitch 2 (15) 8m: Right and up past 3 bolts to the belay.

FA: Stephen King, Ben Scrimgeour, 2006

15 Mixed 35m 2, 5
7 Raw Umber

FA: Heather Brockway, Stephen King, 2006

15 Sport 15m, 5
8 * Survival of the Fittest

FA: John Pellew, Stephen King, 2007

19 Sport 40m, 14
9 Counter Intuitive

FA: John Pellew, Jess Dobson, 2007

20 Sport 20m, 7
10 ** Shoot Your Gun

A nice long corner, exit left at the top to the bolts for Counter Intuitive

FA: Matt Thom, Jess Dobson, 2010

16 Trad 50m
11 *** High Hopes

Outstanding, best as one long pitch. Pitch 1 (16), 23m: From the right of the belay ledge, climb up and move right to the arete after the 3rd bolt, continue up, stepping right to reach the ledge and DBC belay. Pitch 2 (16), 22m: Move back left to the arete and continue up the balancy slab to the DBC belay.

FA: Stephen King, 2005

16 Sport 45m, 14
12 ** Human Intervention

FA: Stephen King, 2006

18 Sport 28m, 9
13 * Natural Selection

FA: Stephen King, Bredon Elimiger, 2006

18 Trad 26m
14 * Safety in Numbers

FA: John Pellew, Jess Dobson, 2007

21 Sport 30m, 14
15 * Out Of The Blue

FA: Stephen King, 2005

14 DWS 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 * Sidewinder

FA: Matt Thom, Stephen King, 2006

19 Sport 60m, 17
17 * Last Tango in Taupo

FA: Matt Thom, 2006

21 R Trad 30m
18 * For King and Country

The crack and right-facing corner.

FA: Tom Johns, John Pellew, 2007

17 Trad 30m
19 *** Road Tripping

Bolted anchor.

FA: Dan Head, 2012

18 Sport 48m, 14
20 Seasons in the Abyss

Protection is only in the first and last 5m, so has a 15m of ground fall potential. Fortunately, the climbing in between areas of protection is easy.

FA: Stephen King, Matt Thom, 2005

16 X Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 *** Super Natural

Classy and absorbing. The thin seam and slab 2m left of The Hecklers. Small gear, a bit run out at the balancy crux. Abseil to anchors on the arete.

FA: Stephen King , Brendon Elimgers, 2007

15 Trad 45m
22 *** The Hecklers

The long clean right-facing corner hand and fist crack with a small roof halfway. Classic, sustained and very well protected. Abseil to the anchors on Sunset Ledge.

FA: Matt Thom, Stephen King, 2005

19 Trad 45m
23 ** Sunset Ledge

Climb the left-facing corner and crack to the bolted belay on the ledge below the bulge. A great trad lead for beginners.

FA: Brendon Elimiger, 2006

14 Trad 28m
24 After the sunset

Pitch 1: [18] The arete which leads to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge. Pitch 2: [16]

FA: Rob Addis, 2012

18 Sport 5m 2, 16
25 * Boat Ramp Crack

Starting from the low alcove, bridge the corner and crack and pull over the small roof (crux). Continue more easily up the crack with a wall at left and over a ledge then up to reach the bolted belay. Abseil off and move left to reach the Sunset Ledge anchor (don't miss it).

FA: Brendon Elimiger, Matt Thom, 2006

17 Trad 45m
26 Abolishing Virginity (one route at a time)

FA: Pudding, Sam Thorpe, Dan Head, 2010

16 Mixed 18m, 6
27 ** Wish your sister was this dirty

Starts under the overhang.

FA: Rob Addis, Mike Rutledge, Andrew Scott, 2011

18 Trad 19m
28 * Park in the walk

Good gear. Climb up the corner to the big vegetated ledge which gives you access to the wall of sirens.

FA: Matt Wootton, Rob Addis, 2011

16 Trad 18m
29 * Benny’s Magical Koura Circus

Finger crack at the end of the lower tier. You can sit in the tree for belaying. Bring small cams. From the top of this climb you have access to the wall of sirens.

FA: Rob Addis, Dan head, 2012

18 Trad 18m

1.6. The Wall of Sirens 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 175.867474, -38.670702

Description:

You will have to climb into this area via one of the last two climbs on the point, then rappel down to the waterline, build an anchor and climb back out. It is still pretty overgrown with lichen but is good fun.

Approach:

Climb into this area via one of the last two climbs on the point (Park in the Walk, or BMKC), then rappel down to the waterline. Alternatively, accessible by boat.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Rain Dogs

Leftmost finger to hand crack on the wall. User anchors as for Benny’s Magical Koura Circus.

FA: Gerard Tarr, Andrew Scott, Rob Addis, 2012

19 Trad 22m
2 ** Rain Dogs Direct

FA: Rob Addis, Gerard Tarr, 2012

20 Trad 22m
3 Delusions of Grandure

Arange a belay in the long vertical hand crack and climb straight to the top. The friction crux at top is not made easier by the abundant lichen.

FA: Andrew Scott, Emiliano Lardone Casenave Baravalle, Rob Addis, 2012

17 Trad 22m

1.7. The Odyssey Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 175.867899, -38.671005

Description:

The most recent, and exciting wall at K-bay. First accessed via Flippin' the grader above and right of Boat Ramp Crack. The Odyssey was climbed ground up in February 2011 and was instantly recognised as a classic.

Approach:

Walk to the top of the upper bluff. Turn left and follow the red tape. The track is not completely obvious but runs paralel to the point. When you see a Large pine tree, continue 15m before heading down to find a ledge with DBC. You are at the top of the odyssey. 60m rap down, be prepared to climb out or leave a fixed rope and bring ascenders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Californication

FA: Dan Head, Matt Thom, 2009

20 Trad 50m
2 ** Disengage the Simulator

FA: Matt Thom, Dan Head, Rob Addis, 2011

20 Trad 35m
3 ** Orion

FA: Matt Thom, Dan Head, Rob Addis, 2011

20 Trad 35m
4 *** The Odyssey

FA: Matt Thom, Dan Head, Rob Addis, 2011

22 Trad 80m 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 My Little Pony Sport 6m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
13 * Yellow Submarine Trad 16m 1.5. The Point
14 Jabba the Hut Trad 15m 1.1. Cracks Wall
Dancing on Rainbows Trad 12m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Out Of The Blue DWS 18m 1.5. The Point
** Sunset Ledge Trad 28m 1.5. The Point
15 Peach Teats Trad 12m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Pink Fluffy Unicorns Sport 12m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Pointy Bit Sport 6m, 2 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* All Aussie Adventures Mixed 35m 2, 5 1.5. The Point
* Mellow Yellow Sport 35m 3, 10 1.5. The Point
Raw Umber Sport 15m, 5 1.5. The Point
*** Super Natural Trad 45m 1.5. The Point
16 * Rohans Little Sister Sport 12m, 4 1.1. Cracks Wall
** The Gecko Groove Trad 28m 1.1. Cracks Wall
* Jug Addiction Sport 20m, 8 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Abolishing Virginity (one route at a time) Mixed 18m, 6 1.5. The Point
*** High Hopes Sport 45m, 14 1.5. The Point
* Park in the walk Trad 18m 1.5. The Point
** Shoot Your Gun Trad 50m 1.5. The Point
16 X Seasons in the Abyss Trad 25m 1.5. The Point
17 ** Blindmans Bluff Trad 28m 1.1. Cracks Wall
** Outboard Crack Trad 20m 1.1. Cracks Wall
* The Slot Machine Trad 15m 1.1. Cracks Wall
Bi’Lingual Mixed 20m, 4 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Iboga Mixed 30m, 1 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Kykkeliky Trad 25m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Little Miss Naughty Trad 12m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Pimple Sport 15m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Unknown Sport 20m, 5 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Taniwha Crackdown Trad 20m 1.3.1. Lower
* Boat Ramp Crack Trad 45m 1.5. The Point
* For King and Country Trad 30m 1.5. The Point
Delusions of Grandure Trad 22m 1.6. The Wall of Sirens
18 *** Flake 7 Trad 20m 1.1. Cracks Wall
** Sunset Boulevard Trad 18m 1.1. Cracks Wall
* Ayahuasca Trad 45m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Dont Hurt my Kowhai Mixed 55m, 9 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
** The Devil Has a Window Into Paradise Trad 35m 2 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* The Medicine Mixed 45m, 1 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
** Sex Panther Mixed 40m 2, 6 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
After the sunset Sport 5m 2, 16 1.5. The Point
* Benny’s Magical Koura Circus Trad 18m 1.5. The Point
** Human Intervention Sport 28m, 9 1.5. The Point
* Natural Selection Trad 26m 1.5. The Point
*** Road Tripping Sport 48m, 14 1.5. The Point
** The Sweet and the Savage Trad 30m 1.5. The Point
** Wish your sister was this dirty Trad 19m 1.5. The Point
18 R Critters Corner Trad 25m 1.1. Cracks Wall
19 Elephant Hunting Trad 25m 1.3.1. Lower
Bouldering on Trad Trad 6m 1.4. Little Red Riding Hood Wall
Snake Charmer Sport 15m, 4 1.4. Little Red Riding Hood Wall
Fistula Trad 28m 1.5. The Point
* Sidewinder Sport 60m, 17 1.5. The Point
* Survival of the Fittest Sport 40m, 14 1.5. The Point
*** The Hecklers Trad 45m 1.5. The Point
** Rain Dogs Trad 22m 1.6. The Wall of Sirens
20 Great Scott Sport 27m 1.1. Cracks Wall
Mr Bastard Trad 12m 1.1. Cracks Wall
*** Captain Caveman Mixed 55m 3, 24 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Counter Intuitive Sport 20m, 7 1.5. The Point
Sunday School Sport 17m, 4 1.5. The Point
** Rain Dogs Direct Trad 22m 1.6. The Wall of Sirens
* Californication Trad 50m 1.7. The Odyssey Wall
** Disengage the Simulator Trad 35m 1.7. The Odyssey Wall
** Orion Trad 35m 1.7. The Odyssey Wall
21 * Aliens Sport 20m, 9 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Aliens Resurrection Sport 2 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Jugzilla Sport 42m 2, 13 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
** ThunderGod Trad 52m 3 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Selective Hearing Trad 25m 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
* Safety in Numbers Sport 30m, 14 1.5. The Point
21 R * Last Tango in Taupo Trad 30m 1.5. The Point
22 ** Rohans Arete Sport 28m, 11 1.1. Cracks Wall
* Predator Sport 12m, 5 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Be Rude Not To Sport 8m, 3 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
Recycling Nachos Sport 20m, 6 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
Ring Bolt Roof Sport 8m, 2 1.4. Little Red Riding Hood Wall
*** The Odyssey Trad 80m 3 1.7. The Odyssey Wall
24 * Lizard King Sport 20m, 7 1.1. Cracks Wall
25 Back to the Future Sport 20m, 7 1.1. Cracks Wall
** Alter of Madness Sport 25m, 7 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
27 ** Imaculate Conception Sport 25m, 10 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
* Morbid Vision Sport 25m, 8 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff