A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Kawakawa Bay 70 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Deep Water

Long/Lat: 175.870345, -38.668758

1.1. Cracks Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rohans Little Sister

FA: Heather Brockway

16Sport 12m, 4
2 Mr Bastard

FA: Stephen King, 2006

20Trad 12m
3 Back to the Future

FA: Martyn Owen, 2006

25Sport 20m, 7
4 ** Rohans Arete

FA: Stephen King, 2004

22Sport 28m, 11
5 *** The Gecko Groove

The right hand crack system 3 meters left of the arete. Save your big gear for the top section. An excellent climb. Tree Belay (if game). (Pro SCD, CD, W). * Walk/scramble off to the far left.

FA: Stephen King, 2004

16Trad 28m
6 Blindmans Bluff

FA: Matt Thom, 2005

17Trad 28m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Great Scott

FA: John Dawkins, 2006

20Sport 27m
8 Critters Corner

FA: S KIng, 2005

18Trad 25m
9 *** Flake 7

FA: S King, 2005

18Trad 20m
10 * Lizard King

FA: Stephan King, 2005

24Sport 20m, 7
11 ** Outboard Crack

FA: M Thom, K Barratt, 2005

17Trad 20m
12 ** Sunset Boulevard

FA: M Thom, 2005

18Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * The Slot Machine

FA: S King, C Ellery, 2005

17Trad 15m
14 Jabba the Hut

FA: Heather Brockway, 2005

14Trad 15m

1.2. The Bluff 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.2.1. The Lower Bluff 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bi’Lingual

FA: Erick Johnnson, 2006

17Mixed 20m, 4
2 * Jug Addiction

FA: Heather Brockway, 2006

16Sport 20m, 8
3 Unknown

Bolted line to the right of 'Jug Addiction'. Around a 19?

19Sport 20m, 5
4 * Dont Hurt my Kowhai

FA: Steven McInally, Stephen King, 2006

18Mixed 55m, 9
5 * The Medicine

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, 2006

18Mixed 45m, 1
6 Iboga

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, Matt Thom, 2006

17Mixed 30m, 1
7 * Predator

FA: Stephen King, 2004

22Sport 12m, 5
8 ** The Devil Has a Window Into Paradise

Grovel up the dirty gully to the right of Jug addiction/Peach teats until you reach an aesthetic overhang.

Pitch 1 (13) Bridge up the chimeny using generous foot-holds. Mantle the ledge to your right and build an anchor 3m to the left of Jugzilla bolts.

Pitch 2 (18) (Also the third pitch of ThunderGod) Follow the right tending crack for ~5 meters and then climb the featured face straight up. Exposed but well protected climbing with some cool moves!

FA: P1: Nik Martinelli, Gerard Tarr; P2 Gerard Tarr, Isaac Tracey, 2012

18Trad 35m
9 * Jugzilla

FA: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr, 2012

21Sport 13
10 * Aliens

FA: Stephen King, 2005

22Sport 20m, 9
11 Pointy Bit

FA: Stephen King, 2004

15Sport 6m, 2
12 * Ayahuasca

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, Carsten Rabe, 2006

18Trad 45m

1.2.2. The Upper Bluff 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sex Panther

First pitch is bolted, second is Trad.

FA: Jono McDonald, Stephen King, 2006

18Mixed 40m, 6
2 ** Alter of Madness

FA: Steven King, 2007

25Sport 25m, 7
3 * Morbid Vision

FA: Steven King, 2007

27Sport 25m, 8
4 Be Rude Not To

FA: John Pellew, 2007

22Sport 8m, 3
5 ** Imaculate Conception

FA: John Pellew, 2007

27Sport 25m, 10
6 * Selective Hearing

FA: Cliff Ellery, 2007

21Trad 25m
7 Recycling Nachos

FA: Steven McInally, 2007

22Sport 20m, 6

1.3. The Point 30 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Deep Water

1.3.1. Track End 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snake Charmer

FA: Stephen Burrows, Cliff Ellery, 2006

19Sport 15m, 4

1.3.2. Little Red Riding Hood Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bouldering on Trad

FA: Matt Natti, 2006

19Trad 6m
2 Ring Bolt Roof

FA: Steven McInally, 2006

22Sport 8m, 2

1.3.3. The Point (Proper) 27 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Deep Water
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mellow Yellow

FA: Stephen King, Steven McInally, 2006

15Sport 35m, 10
2 Sunday School

Can be used as an alternative to the first pitch of 'Mellow Yellow'. Crux after the 3rd bolt.

20Sport 17m, 4
3 ** The Sweet and the Savage

FA: Stephen King, Matt Thom, 2005

18Trad 30m
4 Fistula

Direct start to 'The Sweet and the Savage'

FA: Daniel Joll, Ruben Hull, 2006

19Trad 28m
5 * All Aussie Adventures

FA: Stephen King, Ben Scrimgeour, 2006

15Mixed 35m, 3
6 Raw Umber

FA: Heather Brockway, Stephen King, 2006

15Sport 15m, 5
7 * Survival of the Fittest

FA: John Pellew, Stephen King, 2007

19Sport 40m, 14
8 Counter Intuitive

FA: John Pellew, Jess Dobson, 2007

20Sport 20m, 7
9 *** High Hopes

FA: Stephen King, 2005

16Sport 45m, 14
10 ** Human Intervention

FA: Stephen King, 2006

18Sport 28m, 9
11 * Natural Selection

FA: Stephen King, Bredon Elimiger, 2006

18Trad 26m
12 * Safety in Numbers

FA: John Pellew, Jess Dobson, 2007

21Sport 30m, 14
13 * Out Of The Blue

FA: Stephen King, 2005

14DWS 18m
14 * Sidewinder

Rather oddly, this climb is graded 19,19,17 overall grade 21...

FA: Matt Thom, Stephen King, 2006

21Sport 60m, 17
15 * Last Tango in Taupo

FA: Matt Thom, 2006

21 RTrad 30m
16 For King and Country

FA: Tom Johns, John Pellew, 2007

17Trad 30m
17 *** Road Tripping

Bolted anchor.

FA: Dan Head, 2012

18Sport 48m, 14
18 Seasons in the Abyss

Protection is only in the first and last 5m, so has a 15m of ground fall potential. Fortunately, the climbing in between areas of protection is easy.

FA: Stephen King, Matt Thom, 2005

16 XTrad 25m
19 Super Natural

FA: Stephen King , Brendon Elimgers, 2007

15Trad 45m
20 *** The Hecklers

FA: Matt Thom, Stephen King, 2005

19Trad 45m
21 ** Sunset Ledge

FA: Brendon Elimiger, 2006

14Trad 28m
22 After the sunset

Pitch 1: [18] The arete which leads to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge. Pitch 2: [16]

FA: Rob Addis, 2012

18Sport 5m, 16
23 * Boat Ramp Crack

FA: Brendon Elimiger, Matt Thom, 2006

17Trad 45m
24 Abolishing Virginity (one route at a time)

FA: Pudding, Sam Thorpe, Dan Head, 2010

16Mixed 18m, 6
25 ** Wish your sister was this dirty

Starts under the overhang.

FA: Rob Addis, Mike Rutledge, Andrew Scott, 2011

18Trad 19m
26 * Park in the walk

Good gear. Climb up the corner to the big vegetated ledge which gives you access to the wall of sirens.

FA: Matt Wootton, Rob Addis, 2011

16Trad 18m
27 * Benny’s Magical Koura Circus

Finger crack at the end of the lower tier. You can sit in the tree for belaying. Bring small cams. From the top of this climb you have access to the wall of sirens.

FA: Rob Addis, Dan head, 2012

18Trad 18m

1.4. The Wall of Sirens 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

You will have to climb into this area via one of the last two climbs on the point, then rappel down to the waterline, build an anchor and climb back out. It is still pretty overgrown with lichen but is good fun.

Approach:

Climb into this area via one of the last two climbs on the point (Park in the Walk, or BMKC), then rappel down to the waterline. Alternatively, accessible by boat.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Rain Dogs

Leftmost finger to hand crack on the wall. User anchors as for Benny’s Magical Koura Circus.

FA: Gerard Tarr, Andrew Scott, Rob Addis, 2012

19Trad 22m
2 ** Rain Dogs Direct

FA: Rob Addis, Gerard Tarr, 2012

20Trad 22m
3 Delusions of Grandure

Arange a belay in the long vertical hand crack and climb straight to the top. The friction crux at top is not made easier by the abundant lichen.

FA: Andrew Scott, Emiliano Lardone Casenave Baravalle, Rob Addis, 2012

17Trad 22m

1.5. The Odyssey Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The most recent, and exciting wall at K-bay. First accessed via Flippin' the grader above and right of Boat Ramp Crack. The Odyssey was climbed ground up in February 2011 and was instantly recognised as a classic.

Approach:

Walk to the top of the upper bluff. Turn left and follow the red tape. The track is not completely obvious but runs paralel to the point. When you see a Large pine tree, continue 15m before heading down to find a ledge with DBC. You are at the top of the odyssey. 60m rap down, be prepared to climb out or leave a fixed rope and bring ascenders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Californication

FA: Dan Head, Matt Thom, 2009

20Trad 50m
2 ** Disengage the Simulator

FA: Matt Thom, Dan Head, Rob Addis, 2011

20Trad 35m
3 ** Orion

FA: Matt Thom, Dan Head, Rob Addis, 2011

20Trad 35m
4 *** The Odyssey

FA: Matt Thom, Dan Head, Rob Addis, 2011

22Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
14 Jabba the Hut Trad 15m 1.1. Cracks Wall
* Out Of The Blue DWS 18m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
** Sunset Ledge Trad 28m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
15 Pointy Bit Sport 6m, 2 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* All Aussie Adventures Mixed 35m, 3 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
* Mellow Yellow Sport 35m, 10 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
Raw Umber Sport 15m, 5 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
Super Natural Trad 45m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
16 * Rohans Little Sister Sport 12m, 4 1.1. Cracks Wall
*** The Gecko Groove Trad 28m 1.1. Cracks Wall
* Jug Addiction Sport 20m, 8 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Abolishing Virginity (one route at a time) Mixed 18m, 6 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
*** High Hopes Sport 45m, 14 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
* Park in the walk Trad 18m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
Seasons in the Abyss Trad 25m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
17 Blindmans Bluff Trad 28m 1.1. Cracks Wall
** Outboard Crack Trad 20m 1.1. Cracks Wall
* The Slot Machine Trad 15m 1.1. Cracks Wall
Bi’Lingual Mixed 20m, 4 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Iboga Mixed 30m, 1 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Boat Ramp Crack Trad 45m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
For King and Country Trad 30m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
Delusions of Grandure Trad 22m 1.4. The Wall of Sirens
18 Critters Corner Trad 25m 1.1. Cracks Wall
*** Flake 7 Trad 20m 1.1. Cracks Wall
** Sunset Boulevard Trad 18m 1.1. Cracks Wall
* Ayahuasca Trad 45m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Dont Hurt my Kowhai Mixed 55m, 9 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
** The Devil Has a Window Into Paradise Trad 35m 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* The Medicine Mixed 45m, 1 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Sex Panther Mixed 40m, 6 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
After the sunset Sport 5m, 16 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
* Benny’s Magical Koura Circus Trad 18m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
** Human Intervention Sport 28m, 9 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
* Natural Selection Trad 26m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
*** Road Tripping Sport 48m, 14 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
** The Sweet and the Savage Trad 30m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
** Wish your sister was this dirty Trad 19m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
19 Unknown Sport 20m, 5 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Snake Charmer Sport 15m, 4 1.3.1. Track End
Bouldering on Trad Trad 6m 1.3.2. Little Red Riding Hood Wall
Fistula Trad 28m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
* Survival of the Fittest Sport 40m, 14 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
*** The Hecklers Trad 45m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
** Rain Dogs Trad 22m 1.4. The Wall of Sirens
20 Great Scott Sport 27m 1.1. Cracks Wall
Mr Bastard Trad 12m 1.1. Cracks Wall
Counter Intuitive Sport 20m, 7 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
Sunday School Sport 17m, 4 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
** Rain Dogs Direct Trad 22m 1.4. The Wall of Sirens
* Californication Trad 50m 1.5. The Odyssey Wall
** Disengage the Simulator Trad 35m 1.5. The Odyssey Wall
** Orion Trad 35m 1.5. The Odyssey Wall
21 * Jugzilla Sport 13 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Selective Hearing Trad 25m 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
* Last Tango in Taupo Trad 30m 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
* Safety in Numbers Sport 30m, 14 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
* Sidewinder Sport 60m, 17 1.3.3. The Point (Proper)
22 ** Rohans Arete Sport 28m, 11 1.1. Cracks Wall
* Aliens Sport 20m, 9 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
* Predator Sport 12m, 5 1.2.1. The Lower Bluff
Be Rude Not To Sport 8m, 3 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
Recycling Nachos Sport 20m, 6 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
Ring Bolt Roof Sport 8m, 2 1.3.2. Little Red Riding Hood Wall
*** The Odyssey Trad 1.5. The Odyssey Wall
24 * Lizard King Sport 20m, 7 1.1. Cracks Wall
25 Back to the Future Sport 20m, 7 1.1. Cracks Wall
** Alter of Madness Sport 25m, 7 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
27 ** Imaculate Conception Sport 25m, 10 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff
* Morbid Vision Sport 25m, 8 1.2.2. The Upper Bluff