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Description

The Plateau can be organised into 8 separate areas. The climbing is generally harder then at Whekenui with steeper walls and less features.

Approach

Coming from the beach, walk up the next road about 200m on your left after passing the Marae.

Follow the obvious driveway to the left until you reach an obvious track on the right, marked by a white pole. Follow this track for a further 100m. This arrives at the cliff below Reckless.

Routes described left to right.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 * Balfourspace Sport 27m, 10

Found at the far left of the crag by itself. Difficult first section starting up the groove on the left or the slab on the right. Then head up past ledges then slab before the final headwall.

FA: 1998

2
21 Slave to the Rhythm Sport 20m, 6

Furthest left of the climbs found in Mid-Life Crisis Area. This area is 30m right of Balfourspace. Climb up the face then left over the bulge before heading right.

FA: Phil Castle, 1998

3
23 * 21 Classic Dance Tunes Sport 15m

Start up the slab with the slim seam to the right of STTR then head leftat steeper ground. Head back right then up the headwall.

FA: Len Gillman, 1984

4
24 * Jive Junkies Sport 15m

Head up the groove to the right of the black streaked slab. Step left onto the slab then up the corner and face, drifting left onto the faces at the top.

FA: Kester Brown, 2003

5
22 *** Mid-Life Crisis Sport 20m, 8

Start as for JJ, but continue up the groove to the right. Harder alternative start to the right, up the unenticing V-slot.

FA: Phil Castle, 1998

6
19 * Hands Solo Sport 32m, 2

P1 (19): Start up slabby ground on the right end of the wall. Head right to a belay station after 3 bolts. P2 (22): Crank through the bulge to gain the ledge. Up through another bulge then follow the bolts to the top of the cliff.

FA: James Wright

7
22 Tickle Test Sport 40m, 14

This route is the first on the Knobs and Knockers Area. Found 15m right of Hands Solo. Start as for ST. At some point head left then up left of ST ledge. Head up following the bolts to the top of the cliff.

FA: Len Gillman, 1987

8
19 * Smear Test Sport 15m, 2

Climb the slabby pillar left of the bush filled corner. When out in the sunshine head straight up through a bulge and into the belay ledge. Gear needed at the start and finish

FA: Debbie Hind, 1993

9
17 ** Sporting Gesture Sport 12m, 7

Just right of the bush filled corner, climb the dark slab to an obvious ledge.

FA: Debbie Hind, 1993

10
20 ** Knobs and Knockers Sport 18m, 6

From SG ledge head up the left side of the vague arete to a committing mantle. Then up and right to the belay.

FA: Len Gillman, 1984

11
23 ** Dream of White Snatches Sport 18m, 7

From the far right of KAK ledge climb the black streak.

FA: Len Gillman, 1984

12
17 ** Eccentric Galumbits Sport 9m, 3

Back on the ground there is a short slab in the bush. This climb is up the left side of this slab.

FA: Jo Straker, 1985

13
18 * The Triple Beast Sport 9m, 3

The right hand side of the slab.

FA: Grant Davidson, 1985

14
20 Ooh Um It Art Sport 20m, 5

This route and HH require climbing the grade 16 access route found by heading right along the access track from TTB. This is Smear Tactics Area. From the ledge above the access route head towards a right V corner. Gear needed in thin crack. Head left onto the face at the overhang. Gear and bolts.

FA: Len Gillman, 1984

15
22 Hoover Hog Sport 26m, 7

Start as for OUIA to gain the honeycomb wall on the right side of the face. Head up through the steep bulge and pumpy headwall. Gear if needed.

FA: Mike Rockell, 1987

16
23 * Last Words of Hassan Sabbah Sport 15m, 6

Right of the access route. Head up the bulging red wall to the mossy slab. Finish at the ledge.

FA: Roland Foster, 1985

17
22 * Asking for Absolution Sport 15m, 6

From the top of LWOHS, a bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing on the upper wall.

FA: Niel Monteith & James Wright

18
20 ** Smear Tactics Trad 35m, 2

P1: The slab 10m right of LWOHS with 3 bolts and a crack for gear. P2: Up the thin crack and stay left of the roof. Finish up thin crack.

FA: Grant Davidson, 1984

19
26 Nameless Sport 15m, 6

Start up the slab just right of ST. From the slab tackle the tilted wall.

FA: John Palmer, 2013

20
25 * Graemeless Sport 15m, 5

Start up the groove left of SO. Follow the white diagonal features through the steep bulge.

FA: Roland Foster, 1985

21
23 ** Miracles of Fluid Dynamics Sport
22
24 ** CHildhood's End Sport 14m
23
{US} AU:17 * Forever Tuesday Morning Sport 22m

FA: T.Stempa

24
21 * Something outrageous 1st pitch Unknown 25m

FA: G.Davidson

25
17 * Bunny in Disguise Sport 10m
26
{US} AU:17 * Piki Mai Sport 22m

FA: P.Castle

27
18 * A Change of Tune Sport 10m
28
18 ** Gunga Din Trad 18m

Enticing corner crack with small overlap at ~12m. Great gear.

29
22 * Lord Kim Strike Me Down Unknown 9m
30
21 * Slave to the Rythm Unknown
31
19 ** Reckless Trad 30m
32
21 Shneiderburner Unknown 15m

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