Showing all 19 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Lower Bluff | |||||
15 | ★ Naked And Afraid
Unrecorded for ages, more than one subsequent leader has thought they were doing a FA. Up the easy corner & hand crack left of Kykelliky, tackle the wide crack at top then traverse left to the Sugar Rush anchor when your feet are above its final bolt. FA: Gee Rad | 18m | |||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky
Pronounced KOO-kee-lee-KOO. Climb the wide flaring chimney/crack left of Jug Addiction, continue through the cave (runout) and a steeper layback finish. Tree or gear belay, and easy walk up to the bottom of Sex Panther. | 25m | |||
17 | Bi’Lingual
Start as for Kykkeliky, but escape right at the 4th bolt of Jug Addiction. FA: Erick Johnnson, 2006 | 20m, 4 | |||
15 | Purple Haze
The uninspiring messy dirty groove between Secret Squirrel (RH start) and RMA, sharing the RMA anchor. Fragile rock, big loose blocks, definitely not a good early trad lead, and best avoided altogether. FA: Sam Lancaster-Robertson & Shannon Greenfield, 2020 | 18m | |||
17 | Little Miss Naughty
From the end of the wall right of Dancing on Rainbows, climb up and generally left to the same anchors. Gear in pockets. | 12m | |||
15 | Dirt Free
The twin cracks, finishing left to the Peach Teats anchor. | 12m | |||
17 | Inside Of You
Left-most chimney with no anchor at the top. Traverse over from the anchor of P3 of Reggae Shark. Might be a touch dirty FA: Blair Johnston, 2013 | 10m | |||
18 | Inside Of Me
Right most chimney left of the anchors of P3 of Reggae Shark. Similar issues as for Inside Of You FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
18 | ★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai
P1: (18) Start right of Guardians Of The Galaxy up the finger crack, past a 2 bolt anchor and up the arete passing another anchor. (11 bolts) P2: (17) Climb upwards left of the pillar, then through a cracks system that goes into the roof, finishing on the rightward ledge. (3 bolts) FA: Steven McInally & Stephen King, 2006 | 55m, 2, 14 | |||
17 | ★★ Iboga
Start as for Dont Hurt My Kowhai, traversing right after the anchor above the kowhai, then up the crack and flake. An intimidating lead for the grade, take at least doubles of #2 and #3 cams, more (and/or hexes) if you have them. Be very wary of loose rock at all times, and don't attempt this if there is anyone down around the track or the base of Predator below (ie most of the time). FA: Ryan Von Haesley & Matt Thom, 2006 | 30m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ The Medicine
Start as for Iboga, then head right at the massive flake to the finish of Ayahuasca. Rope drag is horrendous, so consider doing this as two pitchs. FA: Ryan Von Haesley, 2006 | 45m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Ayahuasca
1
18
2
18
Starts directly behind the Predator Pinnacle. Pitch 1: (18) Start in the corner and head up the slab. Trad belay in the undercling flake (30m) Pitch 2: (18) Continue up the flake then to the thin finger crack to the top. Belay off the tree. (15m) FA: Ryan Von Haesley & Carsten Rabe, 2006 | 45m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ The Devil Has a Window Into Paradise
Grovel up the dirty gully above Jugzilla until you reach an aesthetic overhang. Pitch 1 (13) Bridge up the chimeny using generous foot-holds. Mantle the ledge to your right and build an anchor 3m to the left of Jugzilla bolts. Pitch 2 (18) (Also the third pitch of ThunderGod) Follow the right tending crack for ~5 meters and then climb the featured face straight up. Exposed but well protected climbing with some cool moves! FA: P1: Nik Martinelli, Gerard Tarr; P2 Gerard Tarr & Isaac Tracey, 2012 | 35m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Thunder God
Pitch 1 (21): Up overlap to the slab, then left and follow a crack though steep rock between the left arete and the pink wall. Sustained through the top half (crux). (20m) Pitch 2 (14): up and left following the easy splitter hand crack. (20m) Pitch 3 (18): Build an anchor 3m left of the Jugzilla anchors, climb up to reach a seam and follow that diagonally right 5m, mantle the spike and head straight up. Exposed but well protected. (12m) FA: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr & Isaac Tracey, 2012 | 52m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Thors Little Brother
1
17
20m
2
19
16m
P1 (17) Follow the obvious crack line left of Captain Caveman into the cave. (0b, 20m) P2 (19) Go around the slabby corner to the left of the anchor, following the crack to link up with King Of The Castle (4b, 16m) FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson | 36m, 2, 1 | |||
18 | ★★ Psychedelic Freeway
1
17
22m
2
18
20m
1: Start 5m right and up from Captain Caveman, up the fully bolted wall to a ledge and anchor. 2: Head left over the bush to reach the wild exposed finger crack up the edge of the cave, protected on gear. Continue to a bolt-protected arete and slab then anchor. You can top out by heading up into the top pitch of Captain Caveman or Cave Boy. FA: Dan Head & Rob Addis, 2016 | 42m, 2, 11 | |||
The Upper Bluff | |||||
21 | ★ Selective Hearing
A somewhat forgotten and neglected route with a epic tale on the first ascent. Bring 0.3-3 cams and wires and tackle the overhanging hand jam. Don't lose your gear. FA: Cliff Ellery, 2007 | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Sex Panther
1
19
20m
2
18
20m
P1: (19) Go up near the right hand arete, moving left at the second bolt then continuing through the bulge to the anchor (6 bolts). P2: (18) Continue to the obvious finger crack and up to the final anchor. Rappel off or traverse around the exposed arete. No bolts. FA: Jono McDonald & Stephen King, 2006 | 40m, 2, 6 | |||
18 | The Sufferer and the Witness
A long forgotten route, on the lakeside face, 8m right of Sex Panther accessed via hand rope.
FA: Jono Mcdonald FA: 2007 | 37m, 2, 3 |
Showing all 19 routes.