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Routes

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FA: Stephen King & Steven McInally, 2006

Can be used as an alternative to the first pitch of 'Mellow Yellow'. Crux after the 3rd bolt.

Climb/jam the left crack, continue past trees to large block, exit left to Mellow Yellow anchors

FA: Rob Addis, Dan Head & Savannah Joseph, 2011

FA: Stephen King & Matt Thom, 2005

Direct start to 'The Sweet and the Savage'

FA: Daniel Joll & Ruben Hull, 2006

Pitch 1 (15), 27m: Climb the crack and move left to the arete, continuing past 5 bolts and a wire placement, finish up the top crack of The Sweet and the Savage. Pitch 2 (15) 8m: Right and up past 3 bolts to the belay.

FA: Stephen King & Ben Scrimgeour, 2006

FA: Heather Brockway & Stephen King, 2006

FA: John Pellew & Stephen King, 2007

FA: John Pellew & Jess Dobson, 2007

A nice long corner, exit left at the top to the bolts for Counter Intuitive

FA: Matt Thom & Jess Dobson, 2010

Outstanding, best as one long pitch. Pitch 1 (16), 23m: From the right of the belay ledge, climb up and move right to the arete after the 3rd bolt, continue up, stepping right to reach the ledge and DBC belay. Pitch 2 (16), 22m: Move back left to the arete and continue up the balancy slab to the DBC belay.

FA: Stephen King, 2005

FA: Stephen King, 2006

FA: Stephen King & Bredon Elimiger, 2006

FA: John Pellew & Jess Dobson, 2007

FA: Stephen King, 2005

FA: Matt Thom & Stephen King, 2006

FA: Matt Thom, 2006

The crack and right-facing corner.

FA: Tom Johns & John Pellew, 2007

Bolted anchor.

FA: Dan Head, 2012

Protection is only in the first and last 5m, so has a 15m of ground fall potential. Fortunately, the climbing in between areas of protection is easy.

FA: Stephen King & Matt Thom, 2005

Classy and absorbing. The thin seam and slab 2m left of The Hecklers. Small gear, a bit run out at the balancy crux. Abseil to anchors on the arete.

FA: Stephen King & Brendon Elimgers, 2007

The long clean right-facing corner hand and fist crack with a small roof halfway. Classic, sustained and very well protected. Abseil to the anchors on Sunset Ledge.

FA: Matt Thom & Stephen King, 2005

Climb the left-facing corner and crack to the bolted belay on the ledge below the bulge. A great trad lead for beginners.

FA: Brendon Elimiger, 2006

Pitch 1: [18] The arete which leads to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge. Pitch 2: [16]

FA: Rob Addis, 2012

Starting from the low alcove, bridge the corner and crack and pull over the small roof (crux). Continue more easily up the crack with a wall at left and over a ledge then up to reach the bolted belay. Abseil off and move left to reach the Sunset Ledge anchor (don't miss it).

FA: Brendon Elimiger & Matt Thom, 2006

FA: Pudding, Sam Thorpe & Dan Head, 2010

Starts under the overhang.

FA: Rob Addis, Mike Rutledge & Andrew Scott, 2011

Good gear. Climb up the corner to the big vegetated ledge which gives you access to the wall of sirens.

FA: Matt Wootton & Rob Addis, 2011

Finger crack at the end of the lower tier. You can sit in the tree for belaying. Bring small cams. From the top of this climb you have access to the wall of sirens.

FA: Rob Addis & Dan head, 2012

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