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Description

Kinloch (K1) is not a very large crag with just over a dozen routes in total, however it offers a great days climbing with easy access and supurb easy to moderate climbs. It gets the sun late morning so in winter the afternoon is best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a mornings climbing. The rock is riolite and very solid and the routes are generally all high quality.

Approach

Once you have reach the settlement of Kinloch drive straight past the golf course veering slightly right onto Marina Terrace then left down Ketha Place. Park you car at the far end of Ketha place. The crag is a 1 minutes walk from here, or alternately you can walk in from the water front and follow the walking track in

History

View timeline of historical ascents

Climbing first started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along with others based at the Tihoi Venture school started to develop the area. The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and naked bolts used on the most visible parts of the cliff

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay further back in the bush, DRB belay. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)

FA: Richard Dunn & Robyn Wayne, 1991

2
14 Waiting for the Ant Sport 7m, 3

An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 naked bolts then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14s around.

FA: Richard Dunn & Robyn Wayne, 1991

3
16 * Where to from Here Trad 15m

Climb the corner crack system at about grade 14 to the large intermediate ledge. Then continue out left round the arching roof crack. A secret hold provides salvation. DRB belay. (Pro, CD, Hex, Wires)

FA: Allan Kane & Richard Dune, 1991

4
17 ** Buckets in the Belfry Sport 15m, 5

The bucket strewn arete just left of Where to From Here. Easy climbing onto the ledge then launch up the arete past 5 bolts , the crux is in the middle to top section. Shares the DRB belay of Where to From Here.

FA: Mark Jones & Allan Kane, 1991

5
18 Crystal Enquiry Trad 15m

Climb up the steep right facing corner then through the small over hang, crux. Continue up the crack and groove system above, then break out left higher up onto the head wall (bolt) and the DRB belay of Where to From Here. The gear placements are a little difficult to arrange but sound.

FA: Mark Jones & Allan Kane, 1991

6
20 ** Electric Wizard Sport 15m, 4

Climb up the face left of the corner to the small roof, pull through the roof, crux,thencontinueuptheface. Afterthetopboltyoucaneitherescapeout onto the left arete or move over right, both are difficult and both are much of a much ness grade wise. 4 Bolts and a DRB belay.

FA: Mark Jones, 1991

7
18 Highland Cling Sport 15m, 3

Climb the face and blunt arete. Pull over the bulge then continue up the face and arete to the belay of ElectricWizard. [Pro3bolts].

FA: Mark Jones & Allan Kane, 1991

8
17 Rockness Monster Trad 17m

Climb the obvious corner straight up and over the bulge. This is the crux but it is well protected with fail safe bomber wire placements. Continue up the groove above. Move left near the top and finish on the large belay ledge. DBC belay and the protection is good if you take your time arranging it. [Pro: CD, W]

FA: Mark Jones & Sally Rowe, 1991

9

Either start out right or do the pleasant little boulder problem start straight up the arete. Clip the peg then continue up on easier ground till you reach the finger crack proper, a cool head is required and a few micro cam placements can be found. Pleasant climbing up the crack to the DBC belay ledge of Rockness Monster. [Pro: Small & Med CD, W]

FA: Mark Jones & Allan Kane, 1991

10
23 No One Sport 16m, 3

The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete.

11

A superb route up the right-hand crack of the flake. Protection is good round the flake then one bolt in the face. Belay at the chains or keep going to the higher belay of Tunnel Web Spider. (Pro CD, Wires)

FA: Mark Jones & Sally Rowe, 1991

12
21 Stab of the Stonekeeper Sport 8m, 2

Takes the flake and over hang directly up the middle. Pull over onto the face above then continue up to the DBC belay out right.

FA: Mark Jones, 1991

13
14 Tunnel Web Tread Trad 19m

Immediately left of the overhanging flake. The crack and face above, TBC Belay

FA: Mark Jones & Sally Rowe, 1991

14
11 Avalanche Trad 20m

A deep crack studded with stumps. Steep at first then angles off at the top and another bolt chain belay.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Kinloch Crag (K1) Right Hand end.