Kinloch Crag (K1) CLOSED Guide

Left most route of the crag following the obvious crack.

Climb the face left of Les Femmes et Les Grimpeurs A'bord

Climbs between Working Holiday and Les Femmes. P2 can be a great practice multi-pitch or an extension for the two routes to the right; L.F. and W.U.T

Line in the middle of the face. Easy climbing leads to a tricky section between the third and fourth bolt.

Move up the easy slab then up the face onto the top out ledge.

A great easy trad line. Re-cleaned in 2020 by Alice Heath. The number 5 cam is handy at the top.

Up through the bulletproof looking face. Great moves on some cool pockets and edges. Second pitch can be done as multi-pitch practice from this climb or There's Wetas in my Porridge.

"Enlightened"

An old, forgotten route, established around 1990. It now sees the light again, and should be much more popular with its modern hardware. Old-school style cruxes reward technique over brute strength.

Climbs the arete (left of Holiday Mode), with massive jugs up to the 1st bolt, then has small moves on small holds with an easy finish, traversing left to the top.

Retro-bolted in September 2021. Pitons and naked bolts upgraded with glued in rod & hangers. Shares the anchor with the trad & sport route to the left (now upgraded with a ring hanger). 2nd pitch to come soon.

The direct line up the juggy face and overhang. Brilliant climbing. Recleaned in 2020 by Dan Pearl.

Classic, but a bit polished and technically challenging for 15.

Following the left curving line before heading through the slight overhang to the anchor.

Tough onsite, easy redpoint (for the grade). Original grade and name unknown. Named, retro bolted and extended in 2020. Trends right then back left. If the runout between 3rd and 4th bolt looks too scary, imagine doing it with the original single bolt to feel better, (or rap in and clip a piton with an extendable or long draw).

Finish on the big ledge at the double ring belay or continue up the buldge to the very top, sharing the anchor for Hidden Treasure and Walking on Sunshine.

Climb the middle of the face. A low bolt protects the hard start, power through the over lap on big holds with more welcome bolts and a nice bridgy / slab rest. Easier climbing in the middle with spaced bolts up to the big ledge with a final test at the top overhang. Like the name suggests, who would have thought such a nice climb was there!

A tough start laybacking the arete (or easy grovelling in the corner), leads to beautiful climbing up most of the wall with a tricky exit. Shares the same anchor as Hidden Treasure. A nice long route.

Climb up the slab through right facing corner, then move left onto small ledge. Hug the tree on the way past and up easy ground to double ring bolt anchor. If you want a second pitch, step left from the anchors and onto the top half of Walking on Sunshine (grade 16).

This climb has been swallowed up by the bush.

Immediately left of the overhanging flake. The crack and face above, TBC Belay

Takes the flake and over hang directly up the middle. Pull over onto the face above then continue up to the DBC belay out right.

A superb route up the right-hand crack of the flake. Protection is good round the flake then one bolt in the face. Belay at the chains or keep going to the higher belay of Tunnel Web Spider. (Pro CD, Wires)

The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete. 'No one' had put much effort into cleaning it, protect it safely or even name and credit it. Now it's fully bolted (with hangers), relatively clean and adequately protected. A route for Katoa (everyone) - climbing 23's, to enjoy.

The large boulder behind it has a belay bolt on it to keep light belayers grounded.

Either start out right or do the pleasant little boulder problem start straight up the arete. Clip the peg then continue up on easier ground till you reach the finger crack proper, a cool head is required and a few micro cam placements can be found. Pleasant climbing up the crack to the DBC belay ledge of Rockness Monster. [Pro: Small & Med CD, W]

Climb the obvious corner straight up and over the bulge. This is the crux but it is well protected with fail safe bomber wire placements. Continue up the groove above. Move left near the top and finish on the large belay ledge. DBC belay and the protection is good if you take your time arranging it. [Pro: CD, W]

Climb the face and blunt arete. Pull over the bulge then continue up the face and arete to the belay of Electric Wizard.

Climb up the face left of the corner to the small roof, pull through the roof, crux, then continue up the face. After the top bolt you can either escape out onto the left arete or move over right, both are difficult and both are much of a much ness grade wise. 4 Bolts and a DRB belay.

Climb up the steep right facing corner then through the small over hang, crux. Continue up the crack and groove system above, then break out left higher up onto the head wall (bolt) and the DRB belay of Where to From Here. The gear placements are a little difficult to arrange but sound.

Warning Access: Interim closure notice

The bucket strewn arete just left of Where to From Here. Easy climbing onto the ledge then launch up the arete past 5 bolts , the crux is in the middle to top section. Shares the DRB belay of Where to From Here.

Warning Access: Interim closure notice

Climb the corner crack system at about grade 14 to the large intermediate ledge. Then continue out left round the arching roof crack. A secret hold provides salvation. DRB belay. (Pro, CD, Hex, Wires)

Warning Access: Interim closure notice

An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 hangers then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14s around.

The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay further back in the bush, DRB belay. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)