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Pronounced KOO-kee-lee-KOO. Climb the wide flaring chimney/crack left of Jug Addiction, continue through the cave (runout) and a steeper layback finish. Tree or gear belay, and easy walk up to the bottom of Sex Panther.

FA: Erick Johnnson, 2006

FA: Heather Brockway, 2006

Bolted line to the right of 'Jug Addiction'.

"A nice spot". Up scooped holds to the arete and face. Step left under the flax bush at the top to reach the chains.

Easy, short and generously bolted.

Continue up the bolted arete above My Little Pony.

Up the pocketed face right of My Little Pony, then tend right and back left to the Pink Fluffy Unicorns anchors. Nuts, cams and hexes in pockets, good for teaching less standard placements and gear extension.

From the end of the wall right of Dancing on Rainbows, climb up and generally left to the same anchors. Gear in pockets.

1 18
2 14
3 17
4 23

On the buttress right of Peach Teats, up through the overhangs on the final pitch.

FA: Dan Head, Feb 2017

1 18 35m
2 17 20m

FA: Steven McInally & Stephen King, 2006

FA: Ryan Von Haesley & Matt Thom, 2006

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, 2006

FA: Ryan Von Haesley & Carsten Rabe, 2006

FA: Stephen King, 2004

1 13
2 18

Grovel up the dirty gully to the right of Jug addiction/Peach teats until you reach an aesthetic overhang.

Pitch 1 (13) Bridge up the chimeny using generous foot-holds. Mantle the ledge to your right and build an anchor 3m to the left of Jugzilla bolts.

Pitch 2 (18) (Also the third pitch of ThunderGod) Follow the right tending crack for ~5 meters and then climb the featured face straight up. Exposed but well protected climbing with some cool moves!

FA: P1: Nik Martinelli, Gerard Tarr; P2 Gerard Tarr & Isaac Tracey, Mar 2012

1 17
2 21

Pitch 1 (17), 30m: Up the very juggy slightly overhanging arete above the gully to a DBC anchor on the face. You can abseil off from here, or Pitch 2 (21), 12m: Climb up and right on the face, move back left to the DBC anchor shared with Thunder God.

FA: Dan Head & Gerard Tarr, Feb 2012

FA: Stephen King, 2005

FA: Stephen King, 2004

1 17
2 21
1 21
2 23

P1 (21): Play "find the jugs" up the vertical wall right of Aliens Resurrection, then easy slab to chain anchor.

P2 (23): Continue on the left-hand line through some technical climbing.

FA: Dan Head, 2012

1 21
2 14
3 18

Pitch 1 (21): Up overlap to the slab, then left and follow a crack though steep rock between the left arete and the pink wall. Sustained through the top half (crux). Pitch 2 (14): up and left following the easy splitter hand crack. Pitch 3 (18): Build an anchor 3m left of the Jugzilla anchors, climb up to reach a seam and follow that diagonally right 5m, mantle the spike and head straight up. Exposed but well protected.

FA: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr & Isaac Tracey, Feb 2012

1 17
2 16
3 20

A rad adventure through the bowels of the cliff. Originally run out trad, now fully retrobolted but really shines as a mostly-trad mixed route.

P1 (17): Up the rough slab, a few balancy moves, then sneak into the start of the cave and belay. Gear available most of the way.

P2 (16): Walk around the back of the cave, optionally build a trad anchor below the chimney, then bridge up into the enticing darkness until you can exit via a small hole to a nice belay. Adequate gear can be found past the 2nd bolt.

P3 (20): Straight up then over slabby ground, left past a small overlap then grunt through the top overhang on jugs. Decent protection can be arranged the whole way but bolts are right there if you want them.

FA: Dan Head, 2014


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