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Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 ** Kykkeliky Trad 25m

Pronounced KOO-kee-lee-KOO. Climb the wide flaring chimney/crack left of Jug Addiction, continue through the cave (runout) and a steeper layback finish. Tree or gear belay, and easy walk up to the bottom of Sex Panther.

2
17 Bi’Lingual Mixed 20m, 4

FA: Erick Johnnson, 2006

3
16 * Jug Addiction Sport 20m, 8

FA: Heather Brockway, 2006

4
17 Unknown Sport 20m, 5

Bolted line to the right of 'Jug Addiction'.

5
17 Pimple Sport 15m

Up scooped holds to the arete and face. Step left under the flax bush at the top to reach the chains.

6
10 My Little Pony Sport 6m

Easy, short and generously bolted.

7
15 Pink Fluffy Unicorns Sport 12m

Continue up the bolted arete above My Little Pony.

8

Up the pocketed face right of My Little Pony, then tend right and back left to the Pink Fluffy Unicorns anchors. Nuts, cams and hexes in pockets, good for teaching less standard placements and gear extension.

9

From the end of the wall right of Dancing on Rainbows, climb up and generally left to the same anchors. Gear in pockets.

10
15 Peach Teats Trad 12m
11
18 * Dont Hurt my Kowhai Mixed 55m, 9

FA: Steven McInally & Stephen King, 2006

12
17 Iboga Mixed 30m, 1

FA: Ryan Von Haesley & Matt Thom, 2006

13
18 * The Medicine Mixed 45m, 1

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, 2006

14
18 * Ayahuasca Trad 45m

FA: Ryan Von Haesley & Carsten Rabe, 2006

15
22 ** Predator Sport 12m, 5

FA: Stephen King, 2004

16

Grovel up the dirty gully to the right of Jug addiction/Peach teats until you reach an aesthetic overhang.

Pitch 1 (13) Bridge up the chimeny using generous foot-holds. Mantle the ledge to your right and build an anchor 3m to the left of Jugzilla bolts.

Pitch 2 (18) (Also the third pitch of ThunderGod) Follow the right tending crack for ~5 meters and then climb the featured face straight up. Exposed but well protected climbing with some cool moves!

FA: P1: Nik Martinelli, Gerard Tarr; P2 Gerard Tarr & Isaac Tracey, 2012

17
21 ** Jugzilla Sport 42m 2, 13

Pitch 1 (17), 30m: Up the very juggy slightly overhanging arete above the gully to a DBC anchor on the face. You can abseil off from here, or Pitch 2 (21), 12m: Climb up and right on the face, move back left to the DBC anchor shared with Thunder God.

FA: Dan Head & Gerard Tarr, 2012

18
21 * Aliens Sport 20m, 9

FA: Stephen King, 2005

19
15 * Pointy Bit Sport 6m, 2

FA: Stephen King, 2004

20
21
21 ** ThunderGod Trad 52m 3

Pitch 1 (21): Up overlap to the slab, then left and follow a crack though steep rock between the left arete and the pink wall. Sustained through the top half (crux). Pitch 2 (14): up and left following the easy splitter hand crack. Pitch 3 (18): Build an anchor 3m left of the Jugzilla anchors, climb up to reach a seam and follow that diagonally right 5m, mantle the spike and head straight up. Exposed but well protected.

FA: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr & Isaac Tracey, 2012

22
20 *** Captain Caveman Mixed 55m 3, 24

A rad adventure through the bowels of the cliff. Originally run out trad, now fully retrobolted but really shines as a mostly-trad mixed route. P1, 17: Up the rough slab, a few balancy moves, then sneak into the start of the cave and belay. Gear available most of the way. P2, 16: Walk around the back of the cave, optionally build a trad anchor below the chimney, then bridge up into the enticing darkness until you can exit via a small hole to a nice belay. Adequate gear can be found past the 2nd bolt. P3, 20: Straight up then over slabby ground, left past a small overlap then grunt through the top overhang on jugs. Decent protection can be arranged the whole way but bolts are right there if you want them.

FA: Dan Head & Gerard Tarr, 2014

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