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Grade Route
17 Bi’Lingual Mixed 20m, 4

FA: Erick Johnnson, 2006

16 * Jug Addiction Sport 20m, 8

FA: Heather Brockway, 2006

19 Unknown Sport 20m, 5

Bolted line to the right of 'Jug Addiction'. Around a 19?

18 * Dont Hurt my Kowhai Mixed 55m, 9

FA: Steven McInally & Stephen King, 2006

18 * The Medicine Mixed 45m, 1

FA: Ryan Von Haesley, 2006

17 Iboga Mixed 30m, 1

FA: Ryan Von Haesley & Matt Thom, 2006

22 * Predator Sport 12m, 5

FA: Stephen King, 2004


Grovel up the dirty gully to the right of Jug addiction/Peach teats until you reach an aesthetic overhang.

Pitch 1 (13) Bridge up the chimeny using generous foot-holds. Mantle the ledge to your right and build an anchor 3m to the left of Jugzilla bolts.

Pitch 2 (18) (Also the third pitch of ThunderGod) Follow the right tending crack for ~5 meters and then climb the featured face straight up. Exposed but well protected climbing with some cool moves!

FA: P1: Nik Martinelli, Gerard Tarr; P2 Gerard Tarr & Isaac Tracey, 2012

21 * Jugzilla Sport 42m 2, 13

Pitch 1 (17), 30m: Up the very juggy slightly overhanging arete above the gully to a DBC anchor on the face. You can abseil off from here, or Pitch 2 (21), 12m: Climb up and right on the face, move back left to the DBC anchor shared with Thunder God.

FA: Dan Head & Gerard Tarr, 2012

21 * Aliens Sport 20m, 9

FA: Stephen King, 2005

15 Pointy Bit Sport 6m, 2

FA: Stephen King, 2004

21 ** ThunderGod Trad 52m 3

Pitch 1 (21): Up overlap to the slab, then left and follow a crack though steep rock between the left arete and the pink wall. Sustained through the top half (crux). Pitch 2 (14): up and left following the easy splitter hand crack. Pitch 3 (18): Build an anchor 3m left of the Jugzilla anchors, climb up to reach a seam and follow that diagonally right 5m, mantle the spike and head straight up. Exposed but well protected.

FA: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr & Isaac Tracey, 2012

{US} AU:18 * Ayahuasca Trad 45m

FA: Ryan Von Haesley & Carsten Rabe, 2006


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