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Showing all 85 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Kawakawa Bay Cracks Wall
24 Lizard King

FA: Stephan King, 2005

Sport 20m, 7
20 Great Scott

FA: John Dawkins, 2006

Sport 27m
22 Rohans Arete

FA: Stephen King, 2004

Sport 28m, 11
25 Back to the Future

FA: Martyn Owen, 2006

Sport 20m, 7
16 Rohans Little Sister

FA: Heather Brockway

Sport 12m, 4
Kawakawa Bay The Bluff The Lower Bluff
16 Jug Addiction

FA: Heather Brockway, 2006

Sport 20m, 8
17 Unknown

Bolted line to the right of 'Jug Addiction'.

Sport 20m, 5
17 Pimple

"A nice spot". Up scooped holds to the arete and face. Step left under the flax bush at the top to reach the chains.

Sport 15m
10 My Little Pony

Easy, short and generously bolted.

Sport 6m
15 Pink Fluffy Unicorns

Continue up the bolted arete above My Little Pony.

Sport 12m
23 Reggae Shark
1 18
2 14
3 17
4 23

On the buttress right of Peach Teats, up through the overhangs on the final pitch.

FA: Dan Head, Feb 2017

Sport 60m, 4
22 Predator

FA: Stephen King, 2004

Sport 12m, 5
21 Jugzilla
1 17
2 21

Pitch 1 (17), 30m: Up the very juggy slightly overhanging arete above the gully to a DBC anchor on the face. You can abseil off from here, or Pitch 2 (21), 12m: Climb up and right on the face, move back left to the DBC anchor shared with Thunder God.

FA: Dan Head & Gerard Tarr, Feb 2012

Sport 42m, 2, 13
21 Aliens

FA: Stephen King, 2005

Sport 20m, 9
15 Pointy Bit

FA: Stephen King, 2004

Sport 6m, 2
21 Aliens Resurrection
1 17
2 21
Sport 2
23 Brunettes, Not Fighter Jets
1 21
2 23

P1 (21): Play "find the jugs" up the vertical wall right of Aliens Resurrection, then easy slab to chain anchor.

P2 (23): Continue on the left-hand line through some technical climbing.

FA: Dan Head, 2012

Sport 40m, 2, 14
Kawakawa Bay The Bluff The Upper Bluff
25 Alter of Madness

FA: Steven King, 2007

Sport 25m, 7
27 Morbid Vision

FA: Steven King, 2007

Sport 25m, 8
22 Be Rude Not To

FA: John Pellew, 2007

Sport 8m, 3
27 Imaculate Conception

FA: John Pellew, 2007

Sport 25m, 10
22 Recycling Nachos

FA: Steven McInally, 2007

Sport 20m, 6
Kawakawa Bay Little Red Riding Hood Wall
19 Snake Charmer

FA: Stephen Burrows & Cliff Ellery, 2006

Sport 15m, 4
22 Ring Bolt Roof

FA: Steven McInally, 2006

Sport 8m, 2
Kawakawa Bay The Point
15 Mellow Yellow
1 14 8m
2 15 12m
3 14 15m

FA: Stephen King & Steven McInally, 2006

Sport 35m, 3, 10
20 Sunday School

Can be used as an alternative to the first pitch of 'Mellow Yellow'. Crux after the 3rd bolt.

Sport 17m, 4
15 Raw Umber

FA: Heather Brockway & Stephen King, 2006

Sport 15m, 5
19 Survival of the Fittest

FA: John Pellew & Stephen King, 2007

Sport 40m, 14
20 Counter Intuitive

FA: John Pellew & Jess Dobson, 2007

Sport 20m, 7
18 Soul Train

Follow the vague crack line straight up after the first 3 bolts of High Hopes.

FA: Dan Head

Sport 45m
16 High Hopes
1 16 23m
2 16 22m

Outstanding, best as one long pitch. Pitch 1 (16), 23m: From the right of the belay ledge, climb up and move right to the arete after the 3rd bolt, continue up, stepping right to reach the ledge and DBC belay. Pitch 2 (16), 22m: Move back left to the arete and continue up the balancy slab to the DBC belay.

FA: Stephen King, 2005

Sport 45m, 14
18 Human Intervention

FA: Stephen King, 2006

Sport 28m, 9
21 Safety in Numbers

FA: John Pellew & Jess Dobson, 2007

Sport 30m, 14
19 Sidewinder
1 19 31m
2 19 10m
3 17 19m

FA: Matt Thom & Stephen King, 2006

Sport 60m, 17
18 Road Tripping

Bolted anchor.

FA: Dan Head, Jan 2012

Sport 48m, 14
18 After the sunset
1 18
2 16

Pitch 1: [18] The arete which leads to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge. Pitch 2: [16]

FA: Rob Addis, Apr 2012

Sport 5m, 2, 16
Kinloch Kinloch Crag (K1) Right Hand end
14 Waiting for the Ant

An awkward start move leads to easy climbing up the middle of the face past 3 naked bolts then mantle onto the large ledge (crux) and belay off the DBC belay. One of the nicest 14s around.

FA: Richard Dunn & Robyn Wayne, 1991

Sport 7m, 3
17 Buckets in the Belfry

The bucket strewn arete just left of Where to From Here. Easy climbing onto the ledge then launch up the arete past 5 bolts , the crux is in the middle to top section. Shares the DRB belay of Where to From Here.

FA: Mark Jones & Allan Kane, 1991

Sport 15m, 5
20 Electric Wizard

Climb up the face left of the corner to the small roof, pull through the roof, crux,thencontinueuptheface. Afterthetopboltyoucaneitherescapeout onto the left arete or move over right, both are difficult and both are much of a much ness grade wise. 4 Bolts and a DRB belay.

FA: Mark Jones, 1991

Sport 15m, 4
18 Highland Cling

Climb the face and blunt arete. Pull over the bulge then continue up the face and arete to the belay of ElectricWizard. [Pro3bolts].

FA: Mark Jones & Allan Kane, 1991

Sport 15m, 3
23 No One

The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete.

Sport 16m, 3
21 Stab of the Stonekeeper

Takes the flake and over hang directly up the middle. Pull over onto the face above then continue up to the DBC belay out right.

FA: Mark Jones, 1991

Sport 8m, 2
Kinloch Kinloch Crag (K1) Left Hand end
{US} AU:18 BillyBob

At the R end of the Left Hand End

Sport 15m, 5
15 From the Editor Sport 20m, 3
{US} AU:19 Holiday Mode Sport 15m, 3
{US} AU:17 The Elephant goes Toot Sport 20m, 7
{US} AU:17 Wait Until Tomorrow Sport 20m, 6
{US} AU:19 Les Femmes et les Grimpeurs d'Abord Sport 15m, 6
{US} AU:16 Working Holiday Sport 12m, 5
Whanganui Bay (CLOSED) Whekenui (CLOSED)
19 Small Pocks

FA: R. cooper

Sport 9m
22 Bizarrete
Sport 32m
18 Surrogate
Sport 11m
21 Progressive Green
Sport 20m
Whanganui Bay (CLOSED) Labotamy Butress (CLOSED)
20 Punishment of Luxury

2nd route from the left.

Sport 14m
20 Slip Kid

3rd route from the left

Sport 14m
20 Evolution
Sport 18m
21 Doodedoodedoo

actually the name is duudooduudoos (as in a heart beating heavily)

FA: Simon Vallings, 1984

Sport 45m
22 Turbomingent Torremounting Tossers

Start as for Duudoo and then blast right to the arete after the cave belay for Evolution.

Sport 25m
18 Nobody's hero
Sport 20m
17 Bart
Sport 20m
Whanganui Bay (CLOSED) The Plateau (CLOSED)
21 Balfourspace

Found at the far left of the crag by itself. Difficult first section starting up the groove on the left or the slab on the right. Then head up past ledges then slab before the final headwall.

FA: 1998

Sport 27m, 10
21 Slave to the Rhythm

Furthest left of the climbs found in Mid-Life Crisis Area. This area is 30m right of Balfourspace. Climb up the face then left over the bulge before heading right.

FA: Phil Castle, 1998

Sport 20m, 6
23 21 Classic Dance Tunes

Start up the slab with the slim seam to the right of STTR then head leftat steeper ground. Head back right then up the headwall.

FA: Len Gillman, 1984

Sport 15m
24 Jive Junkies

Head up the groove to the right of the black streaked slab. Step left onto the slab then up the corner and face, drifting left onto the faces at the top.

FA: Kester Brown, 2003

Sport 15m
22 Mid-Life Crisis

Start as for JJ, but continue up the groove to the right. Harder alternative start to the right, up the unenticing V-slot.

FA: Phil Castle, 1998

Sport 20m, 8
19 Hands Solo

P1 (19): Start up slabby ground on the right end of the wall. Head right to a belay station after 3 bolts. P2 (22): Crank through the bulge to gain the ledge. Up through another bulge then follow the bolts to the top of the cliff.

FA: James Wright

Sport 32m, 2
22 Tickle Test

This route is the first on the Knobs and Knockers Area. Found 15m right of Hands Solo. Start as for ST. At some point head left then up left of ST ledge. Head up following the bolts to the top of the cliff.

FA: Len Gillman, 1987

Sport 40m, 14
19 Smear Test

Climb the slabby pillar left of the bush filled corner. When out in the sunshine head straight up through a bulge and into the belay ledge. Gear needed at the start and finish

FA: Debbie Hind, 1993

Sport 15m, 2
17 Sporting Gesture

Just right of the bush filled corner, climb the dark slab to an obvious ledge.

FA: Debbie Hind, 1993

Sport 12m, 7
20 Knobs and Knockers

From SG ledge head up the left side of the vague arete to a committing mantle. Then up and right to the belay.

FA: Len Gillman, 1984

Sport 18m, 6
23 Dream of White Snatches

From the far right of KAK ledge climb the black streak.

FA: Len Gillman, 1984

Sport 18m, 7
17 Eccentric Galumbits

Back on the ground there is a short slab in the bush. This climb is up the left side of this slab.

FA: Jo Straker, 1985

Sport 9m, 3
18 The Triple Beast

The right hand side of the slab.

FA: Grant Davidson, 1985

Sport 9m, 3
20 Ooh Um It Art

This route and HH require climbing the grade 16 access route found by heading right along the access track from TTB. This is Smear Tactics Area. From the ledge above the access route head towards a right V corner. Gear needed in thin crack. Head left onto the face at the overhang. Gear and bolts.

FA: Len Gillman, 1984

Sport 20m, 5
22 Hoover Hog

Start as for OUIA to gain the honeycomb wall on the right side of the face. Head up through the steep bulge and pumpy headwall. Gear if needed.

FA: Mike Rockell, 1987

Sport 26m, 7
23 Last Words of Hassan Sabbah

Right of the access route. Head up the bulging red wall to the mossy slab. Finish at the ledge.

FA: Roland Foster, 1985

Sport 15m, 6
22 Asking for Absolution

From the top of LWOHS, a bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing on the upper wall.

FA: Niel Monteith & James Wright

Sport 15m, 6
26 Nameless

Start up the slab just right of ST. From the slab tackle the tilted wall.

FA: John Palmer, 2013

Sport 15m, 6
25 Graemeless

Start up the groove left of SO. Follow the white diagonal features through the steep bulge.

FA: Roland Foster, 1985

Sport 15m, 5
23 Miracles of Fluid Dynamics
Sport
24 CHildhood's End
Sport 14m
{US} AU:17 Forever Tuesday Morning

FA: T.Stempa

Sport 22m
17 Bunny in Disguise
Sport 10m
{US} AU:17 Piki Mai

FA: P.Castle

Sport 22m
18 A Change of Tune
Sport 10m

Showing all 85 routes.