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Access: Track and hand line anchor undermined

The track is undermined at the final hand rope leading to the ledge below Hecklers. Clip into the new red double hand rope and keep hard left while crossing this section. Other sections are also problematic. Be very careful.

See warning details and discuss

Created 5 months ago - Edited 3 months ago
1 18 30m
2 15 20m
3 16 20m
4 18 20m
5 20 25m
6 14 5m

description

Now 5-6 pitches right to the top.

  1. [18, 9b] Wander up the arete to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge.

  2. [15, 7b] Left into the corner then back right and up to reach the hand rope. Take that leftward.

  3. [16, 8b] As for P2 of Mexican Americans to the big ledge below New Wave Wall.

  4. [18, 8b] The leftmost line of bolts over bulges to belay below the wall left of the arete.

  5. [20, 10b] Up the right traversing line of bolts around the corner to the arete, then up the arete to reach a ledge and anchor. Best clip this with a long sling and continue.

  6. [14, 2b] A short easy pitch to the top. Walk off away from the cliff and up to the ridge track (pink tape). See better description above.

Route history

Apr 2012First ascent: Rob Addis, Dan Head & Merry Schimanski

P1-2 Rob and Dan, P4-5 Dan and Merry, 2015.

Warnings

25 Oct 2023 Warning Access: Track and hand line anchor undermined

Location

Lat/Lon: -38.66987, 175.86735

Grade citation

18, 15, 16, 18, 20, 14 Assigned grade
John Pitcairn
17 [16 - 18] -- grAId
18,16 private
18,16,16,18,20,13 Erik Thiel

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 81 from 42 ratings.

Difficulty - 20

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 7 ratings.

Suggested Grade

20

Based on 7 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 31
Flash 2
Red point 12
Tick 21
Attempt 5

Comment keywords

difficult crux hard fantastic good great fun nice amazing stoked incredible super enjoyable wicked beautiful awesome traverse slopey roof feet adventurous cruisy crack epic rest face technical awkward fingers arete layback hands bail short horrendous fall tricky exposed

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Wed 19 Apr
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