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Summary

Stays dry in the rain. Better quality rock on right side of crag.

Approach

5 minutes up usually wet creek beds. After exiting Homer tunnel, en route to Milford Sound there is a sign for "theChasm 400m". 50 m before this sign there is a small bridge. It is best to drive to the chasm car park, and visit it if you haven't. Then drive the 450m back towards the tunnel and pull of just after the small bridge on the left. One track on the Milford side of the bridge leads to the left wall. The other on the Homer side leads to the right crag. It is possible to walk between right and left sides along the base.

Ethic

Used to be mixed climbing. There are still some excellent trad routes, however many mixed routes seem to be now fully bolted. Access rungs were placed in 2012 to provide quick access to the left side of the wall. Once on the wall it is rare to come to ground until the end of the day. However don't pee up there as it never washes away.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
19 * Pro Rata Unknown 16m

FA: Steve Henry/Dave Roberts

2
24 AID:A2 ** Dread Zone Aid
3
22 ** Mr. Wolf Trad 41m, 2

Start as for dread zone, about 8m left of access rungs at ground level for pitch one. Alternatively to access pitch 2, abseil 28m from the left end of the chillout ledge, angling left to anchors below obvious left trending undercling flake. Pitch 2 starts here, goes up dike steps to flake, moves left across under clings then up and trends back right passing 2 bolts to the left end of the chill out ledge.

FA: Murray Ball/Paul Rogers

4
10 Access rungs Via ferrata 20m

Up the rungs which are 3 m left of the battered tree leaning against cliff at top of access one. Quite steep and slippery when wet. Lead to DBB.

Set by paul Rogers, 2012

5
22 * Granite Gringo Sport 15m

From the top of the access rungs head left, but don't continue on undercling as for JTB. Instead head up past up a seam to the left end of the chill out ledge. Several bulges and a steep finish. Seems to be fully bolted (2016)

FA: Kate Sinclair

6

As of 2016 there appears to be a line of studs with hangers removed .

7

The the right trending line of bolts.

8
24 * Jack The Biscuit Sport 82m, 4

P1: Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. . Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner, or if wet use rungs. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay.

P2: The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge.

P3: From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay.

P4: The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left

FA: Paul Rogers & Hugh Barnard, 1993

9
19 * Mainly Tramping Unknown 20m

Starts a few metres right of tree and leads to DBB. From there access to pitch 2 of CN (grade 18) or Another one (grade 19) as second pitches

FA: p rodgers, 2008

10
19 * Another One Sport 15m

From top of MT head left to belay of CN level with chill out ledge

11
18 MT to CN belay RIGHT Unknown 15m

Essentially pitch 2 of CN to head to the level of the chill out ledge.

12
29 ** Contact Neurosis Unknown 48m, 2

FA: Paul Rogers/Toni Bryant

14
26 *** Buster Gonad Sport 24m

A wild ride from start to finish 26m. bolts and CD’s from #1 to 3.5. Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. This route has it all, pockets underclings, lay-backing and crimps!

Been re-bolted since original description. No gear required now

FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993

15
23 Au Natural Unknown
16
25 ** Power Trip Unknown 50m, 3
17
27 ** Bust'Milford Unknown
18
18 No Name Unknown
19
18 Streaks Ahead Unknown
20
23 *** Groove Armada Sport 23m

FA: Paul Rogers/Will McQueen

21

FA: Paul Rogers

22
22 * Safety In Numbers Unknown 19m

FA: Mark Sedon

23
23 ** Retrosexual Unknown 33m, 2

FA: Paul Rogers

24
26 *** Vertically Challenged Unknown 40m
25
24 *** One Way Ticket Sport
27
19 * Journey Unknown
28
26 Tardomania Unknown 20m

FA: Derek Thatcher

29
24 ** On The Prow Unknown 16m

FA: Paul Rogers/Jon Sedon

30
24 *** Day Tripper Unknown
31
23 ** Stoned Immaculate Unknown
32
27 * Doobious Tendencies Unknown 25m

FA: Ivan Vostinar

Activity

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