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Stays dry in the rain. Better quality rock on right side of crag.


5 minutes up usually wet creek beds. After exiting Homer tunnel, en route to Milford Sound there is a sign for "theChasm 400m". 50 m before this sign there is a small bridge. It is best to drive to the chasm car park, and visit it if you haven't. Then drive the 450m back towards the tunnel and pull of just after the small bridge on the left. One track on the Milford side of the bridge leads to the left wall. The other on the Homer side leads to the right crag. It is possible to walk between right and left sides along the base.


Used to be mixed climbing. There are still some excellent trad routes, however many mixed routes seem to be now fully bolted. Access rungs were placed in 2012 to provide quick access to the left side of the wall. Once on the wall it is rare to come to ground until the end of the day. However don't pee up there as it never washes away.


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Grade Route

FA: Steve Henry/Dave Roberts

Start on the ring bolt anchor between Pro Rata and Dread Zone. Can be accessed from the ledge by rapping down to the Dread Zone anchor and then traversing across left.

The pitch is now fully bolted with fun, flowy moves.

1 18 15m
2 22 26m

Start as for dread zone, about 8m left of access rungs at ground level for pitch one. Alternatively to access pitch 2, abseil 28m from the left end of the chillout ledge, angling left to anchors below obvious left trending undercling flake. Pitch 2 starts here, goes up dike steps to flake, moves left across under clings then up and trends back right passing 2 bolts to the left end of the chill out ledge.

FA: Murray Ball/Paul Rogers

Up the rungs which are 3 m left of the battered tree leaning against cliff at top of access one. Quite steep and slippery when wet. Lead to DBB.

Set by paul Rogers, 2012

From the top of the access rungs head left, but don't continue on undercling as for JTB. Instead head up past up a seam to the left end of the chill out ledge. Several bulges and a steep finish. Seems to be fully bolted (2016)

FA: Kate Sinclair

As of 2016 there appears to be a line of studs with hangers removed .

The the right trending line of bolts.

1 17
2 18
3 20
4 24

P1: Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. . Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner, or if wet use rungs. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay.

P2: The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge.

P3: From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay.

P4: The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left

FA: Paul Rogers & Hugh Barnard, 1993

Starts a few metres right of tree and leads to DBB. From there access to pitch 2 of CN (grade 18) or Another one (grade 19) as second pitches

FA: p rodgers, 2008

From top of MT head left to belay of CN level with chill out ledge

Essentially pitch 2 of CN to head to the level of the chill out ledge.

1 17 30m
2 29 18m

FA: Paul Rogers/Toni Bryant

2 19
3 27

A wild ride from start to finish 26m. bolts and CD’s from #1 to 3.5. Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. This route has it all, pockets underclings, lay-backing and crimps!

Been re-bolted since original description. No gear required now

FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993

2 23
3 25

FA: Paul Rogers/Will McQueen

FA: Paul Rogers

FA: Mark Sedon

1 22 18m
2 23 15m

FA: Paul Rogers

2 20

FA: Derek Thatcher

FA: Paul Rogers/Jon Sedon

FA: Ivan Vostinar


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