Ascents in Mt Cook

Unguided ascent with Jack as a team of two in 14.5hrs. Stunning mountain. We had a clear summit window with perfect weather and amazing views. We generally swung leads on the summit rocks but I took the harder pitches.

My first proper trip to the big hills. I had been running my ass off trying to get prepared for this. conditions were hot we warmed up with Glacier Dome 2567m.

Then slept all day, Leaving at midnight in non Ideal conditions. We gave it our best crack, re-cutting the trail making it through the night avoiding most of the crap snow bridges which will be fondly remembered as: The Sisterhood of Travelling Pants, Diagon Alley and On Both Sides of the Gash. When we reached 3000m we were faced with navigating class 4 avalanche debris. So we decided to have a crack at Bowie Ridge a rock route well protected from Avalanches. 2 hrs later we were retreating from 3200m. Still with time left we considered continuing to ascend but as we literally said lets go up. The Gun Barrel said its good morning by sending van size blocks of ice down the Linda.

We then began our descent and did not see a single party the whole way down. Round trip for us was 13hrs and we each only fell through 4 snowbridges! we considered attempting the next evening however there was still no freeze We then ran up Anzac Peak and took the chopper out as the descent down Chimera Col was impassable.

Such a fun 3 days!

Best day in the hills I've had yet.

Turned around at top of Summit Rocks due to boiler plate ice. Lots of rocks and ice firing from the gunbarrells. Would liken it to glissading through a shooting gallery. Enormous serac fall off Linda Shelf, on way down.