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Summary
Short climbs on variable andesite within a few minutes of the luxurious Tahurangi Lodge.
Description
Various cliffs in Hongis Valley, the upper reaches of the Maketawa Valley just off the summit track.
Access issues inherited from Mount Taranaki
Most people drive to one of the roadends in Egmont National Park, though it is possible to fly into New Plymouth and catch a shuttle out. North Egmont Visitor Centre is the most popular destination, though there are around a dozen public access points to the park.
Approach
1-2 hour
About an hour from the North Egmont Visitor Centre, maybe a bit longer with all your trad gear. Follow the summit route up and have a look for your cliff faces a few minutes after passing Tahurangi Lodge.
Where to stay
Tahurangi Lodge is a few minutes away - currently $45 / night if you're not a member of the Taranaki Alpine Club, who own the building. Otherwise there is accommodation at North Egmont Visitor Centre (The Camphouse, $25 / night) or you can crash at Maketawa Hut ($15 / night).
Ethic
Being in a national park, bolting is discouraged and likely illegal under the management plan. While there is some old architecture (pitons etc.), don't expect sport routes or bolted anchors. Trad crag, but with lots of protectable features.
History
A bit of morbid history - one of the upper cliffs in the valley (Hongis Bluff a.k.a. Surfs Up Wall) killed six people in 1953 when a roped party fell over it from Snow Valley above.
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