Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. North Island 2,351 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.577765, -37.911397

1.1. Tongariro National Park 158 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.576068, -39.224213

Description:

Tongariro National Park is located around three central mountain peaks Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngarahoe and Mt Tongariro. The climbing tends to be more adventurous due to its mountain environment.

There is sport and trad climbing in summer (or winter for the brave!) and alpine style routes for winter.

For the more adventurous, there are plenty of first ascents to be had on trad lines around the summits.

1.1.1. Mangatepopo Valley 136 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.607615, -39.145976

1.1.2. Tawhitikuri Valley 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.3. Mt Ruapehu 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.581017, -39.281288

1.1.4. Oturere Valley 0 routes in Area

1.2. Lake Taupo 372 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.863971, -38.809220

Description:

In the middle of the North Island is Lake Taupo, site of a once massive volcanic eruption.

'Whanganui Bay' is the predominant crag of the region, seeing development from the 1980's. More recently however, 'Kawakawa Bay' provides equally fantastic climbing.

Climbs tend to be on cliff faces coming right out of the lake with heights of upto 100m. The general rock type is welded ignimbrite, providing great friction and great features for use as holds. There are both crack and face climbs, tending for both sport and trad climbers alike.

1.2.1. Taupo East 141 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 176.083973, -38.762186

1.2.2. Taupo West 231 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.762391, -38.831190

1.3. Waikato 1,075 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.326552, -38.045211

Description:

The Waikato (Maori for "water-flow") is a large basin housing the mighty Waikato river and the majority of the North Islands climbing development.

The most notable area is the 'Wharepapa Region'[11874529] with many crags in close proximity. The climbing in this region is on pocket in ingnmbrite, so tape is a worthwhile investment.

Limestone is also present in the Waikato. 'The Airstrip' in 'Waitomo' is great for bouldering and 'Mangaokewa' just outside of Te Kuiti is steep sport climbing.

1.3.1. Wharepapa Region 731 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.575184, -38.191828

Description:

Pocketed ignimbrite with four main crags: Castle Rock, Froggatts Edge, Sheridan Hills and Baileys Crag. All have easy access, great climbing and there is something for everyone from grades 10 to 31.

1.3.2. Te Kuiti 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.163732, -38.342441

1.3.3. Waitomo 188 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 175.067326, -38.245017

1.3.4. King Country 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.3.5. Mangaotaki 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.881482, -38.415750

1.3.6. Piarere 48 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.741145, -37.974335

1.3.7. Ohakuri Dam 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 176.082863, -38.411793

1.3.8. Lake Whakamaru 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 175.860397, -38.419368

1.4. Bay Of Plenty 119 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 176.808431, -38.098762

1.4.1. Mount Maunganui 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 176.171384, -37.630607

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great views over the harbor entrance and Matakana Island.

Access Issues:

Public land, with belay spots located on a popular walking path. Be prepared to move for joggers, and to be asked questions about what you are doing.

Approach:

Follow the path from the Surf Lifesaving Club on the Easter beach (Main beach), taking the first set of stairs going up the mountain.

At the split in the path, follow the left path (marked as the Difficult track).

Where To Stay:

Camping ground at the base of the Mount. Hotels and backpackers within walking distance. Availability very limited in summer season.

1.4.2. Moturiki Island 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 176.185114, -37.630636

1.4.3. Kawerau 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 176.705695, -38.096782

1.4.4. Bowentown Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.987354, -37.467863

Unique Features And Strengths:

Seaside cliff, where you will be belaying from the sea if you get the tide wrong.

Description:

Small wall with some limited development and bolting.

Approach:

Drive to Bowetown, and pass the campground. Right before the carpark after the campground, turn right and drive up the hill to another carpark. Take the stairs down from the carpark. At the bottom of the stairs go to the right until you reach the sand.

There is a drop from the rocks to the sand, but it is possible to climb through a small cave near the rock face.

Where To Stay:

Waihi, Waihi beach town, or the Bowentown camp.

Ethic:

The site features at least Maori Pa.

No particular ethics need to be followed aside from being respectful and not damaging the area.

1.4.5. Reporoa Gorge 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 176.393690, -38.494768

1.5. Auckland 291 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.820110, -36.925823

Description:

Auckland is the largest city in New Zealand and boasts two primary climbing areas. The 'Mt. Eden Quarry'[11874673] boasts some of New Zealand's first hard climbs, all the while being 30 minutes walk from down town. 'Waiheke Island'[11874673] is a 45 minute ferry ride from down town Auckland and has great bouldering to offer.

Where To Stay:

There are loads of backpackers in the central city that you can use.

1.5.1. Mt. Eden Quarry 253 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.766066, -36.870712

Description:

The Mount Eden Quarry was the crucible of hard rock climbing in New Zealand. Its steep, technical and fingery basalt grooves, as much as its urban setting remote from any mountains, were the catalyst for climbers to begin pursuing rock climbing as an end in itself. By the mid 1980s the Quarry had the densest concentration of hard climbs in the country.

The routes at the Quarry are as good as they ever were. It is by far the most popular crag in the region and Aucklanders are fortunate to have such a high-quality crag in their midst.

Access Issues:

To climb at the quarry, permission must be obtained from the NZAC. Fortunately, this is simple enough, just sign up online here: http://aucklandclimber.org.nz/quarry.html

Helmets must be worn at all times, including when belaying or bouldering.

Approach:

The Mt Eden Quarry is situated in the centre of Auckland, in the grounds of the Auckland Grammar School and beside the southern motorway and the Mt Eden Prison.

To reach the Long Side from the school’s main gates on Mountain Road, follow the signs to the Centennial Theatre complex and take the road that leads down to the left of the theatre to the lower playing fields — and the crag.

Access to the Short Side, which is near the corner of Clive and Normanby Roads, is from the Grammar–Windsor hockey turf on Normanby Road.

History:

Was originally a rock quarry, formed in 1856. Labour from the neighbouring prison was used to quarry the rock.

1.5.2. Waiheke Island 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 175.170062, -36.766198

1.6. Northland 210 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 173.995261, -35.171507

1.6.1. Ti Point 61 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.791507, -36.317683

1.6.2. Mangaraho 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.048181, -35.977764

1.6.3. Tokatoka 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.4. Whangarei 40 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.5. Waipu Caves 32 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.6. Waipu Cove 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.7. Bald Rock 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.6.8. Maunu 0 routes in Area

1.6.9. Waro Reserve [Closed] 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

The crag is closed.

1.6.10. Apotu Road [Closed] 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

This crag is currently closed.

1.6.11. Crag X [Closed] 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

This crag is closed.

1.6.12. Kerikeri 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7. The Coromandel Peninsula 115 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.622625, -37.064972

Description:

The Coromandel is a vacation retreat for most of Auckland during the summer. It is also home to many of the north islands longer sport routes.

1.7.1. Castle Rock 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.561777, -36.803938

1.7.2. Maratoto 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.758058, -37.305859

1.7.3. Karangahake Gorge 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.725800, -37.427982

1.7.4. Buck Rock 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.748633, -37.552752

1.7.5. Te Ananui 63 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 175.890908, -37.193662

Approach:

Main carpark: -37.185153, 175.884172. Access mostly @low tide.

1.7.6. Hahei Beach 0 routes in Area

1.7.7. Hot Water Beach 0 routes in Area

1.8. Mount Taranaki (Egmont) 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.059397, -39.294470

1.8.1. Humphries Castle 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.8.2. Organ Pipes 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.8.3. Snotgobbler Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.8.4. The Eiger Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.8.5. The Little Eiger 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.8.6. Warwicks Castle 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.8.7. Possum Rock 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.8.8. Lion Rocks 0 routes in Area

1.8.9. Hongis Valley 0 routes in Area

1.9. Wellington 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.785830, -41.252078

1.9.1. Baring Head 0 routes in Area

1.9.2. Titahi Bay 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 174.845264, -41.091676

1.9.3. Pukerua Bay 0 routes in Area

1.9.4. Turakirae Head 0 routes in Area

1.9.5. Pencarrow Head 0 routes in Area

1.9.6. Fly Rock 0 routes in Area

1.9.7. Tinui 0 routes in Area

1.9.8. Mount Kaukau 0 routes in Area

1.9.9. Ning Nong 0 routes in Area

1.9.10. Te Ikaamaru Bay 0 routes in Area

1.9.11. Makara 0 routes in Area

1.9.12. Turbine Rock 0 routes in Area