Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. North Island 2,442 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.577765, -37.911397

1.1. Northland 210 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 173.995261, -35.171507

1.1.1. Ti Point 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.791507, -36.317683

1.1.2. Mangaraho 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 174.048181, -35.977764

1.1.3. Waipu Caves 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.4. Waipu Cove 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.5. Ngahere Drive 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.6. Tokatoka 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.7. Bald Rock 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.1.8. Waro Reserve 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

The crag is CLOSED.

1.1.9. Apotu Road 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

This crag is currently CLOSED.

1.1.10. Crag X 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

This crag is CLOSED.

1.1.11. Kerikeri 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2. Auckland 291 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.820110, -36.925823

Description:

Auckland is the largest city in New Zealand and the wider region boasts two primary climbing areas. The 'Mt. Eden Quarry'[11874673] boasts some of New Zealand's first hard climbs, all the while being 30 minutes walk from downtown. 'Stony Batter'[11874673] is a ferry ride from downtown Auckland and has great bouldering to offer.

Where To Stay:

There are loads of backpackers in the central city that you can use.

1.2.1. Auckland City 253 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 174.766216, -36.870791

1.2.2. Waiheke Island 38 routes in Region

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 175.170157, -36.766315

Access Issues:

A 45-minute ferry ride from central Auckland.

1.3. Coromandel Peninsula 118 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.622625, -37.064972

Description:

The Coromandel is a vacation retreat for most of Auckland during the summer. It is also home to many of the north islands longer sport routes.

1.3.1. Castle Rock 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.561777, -36.803938

1.3.2. Maratoto 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.758058, -37.305859

1.3.3. Karangahake Gorge 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 175.725800, -37.427982

1.3.4. Buck Rock 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.748633, -37.552752

1.3.5. Te Ananui 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 175.890908, -37.193662

Approach:

Main carpark: -37.185153, 175.884172. Access mostly @low tide.

1.4. Waikato 1,111 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.326552, -38.045211

Description:

The Waikato (Maori for "water-flow") is a large basin housing the mighty Waikato river and the majority of the North Islands climbing development.

The most notable area is the 'Wharepapa Region'[11874529] with many crags in close proximity. The climbing in this region is on pocket in ingnmbrite, so tape is a worthwhile investment.

Limestone is also present in the Waikato. 'The Airstrip' in 'Waitomo' is great for bouldering and 'Mangaokewa' just outside of Te Kuiti is steep sport climbing.

1.4.1. Wharepapa South 742 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.575184, -38.191828

Description:

Pocketed ignimbrite with five main crags: Castle Rock, Froggatt Edge, Sheridan Hills, Bayley Road and Waipapa Dam. All have easy access, great climbing and there is something for everyone from grades 10 to 31.

Where To Stay:

Bryce’s Rockclimbing for backpacker accommodation, gear sales and rentals. Camping is also available in the grounds of Wharepapa South school for a small fee.

1.4.2. Te Kuiti 70 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 175.163732, -38.342441

1.4.3. Waitomo 211 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 175.067326, -38.245017

1.4.4. King Country 13 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.4.5. Mangaotaki 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.881482, -38.415750

1.4.6. Piarere 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.741145, -37.974335

1.4.7. Ohakuri Dam 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 176.082863, -38.411793

1.4.8. Lake Whakamaru 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 175.860397, -38.419368

1.5. Bay Of Plenty 126 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 176.808431, -38.098762

1.5.1. Mount Maunganui 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 176.171384, -37.630607

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great views over the harbor entrance and Matakana Island.

Access Issues:

Public land, with belay spots located on a popular walking path. Be prepared to move for joggers, and to be asked questions about what you are doing.

Approach:

Follow the path from the Surf Lifesaving Club on the Easter beach (Main beach), taking the first set of stairs going up the mountain.

At the split in the path, follow the left path (marked as the Difficult track).

Where To Stay:

Camping ground at the base of the Mount. Hotels and backpackers within walking distance. Availability very limited in summer season.

1.5.2. Moturiki Island 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 176.185114, -37.630636

1.5.3. Bowentown Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 175.987354, -37.467863

Unique Features And Strengths:

Seaside cliff, where you will be belaying from the sea if you get the tide wrong.

Description:

Small wall with some limited development and bolting.

Approach:

Drive to Bowetown, and pass the campground. Right before the carpark after the campground, turn right and drive up the hill to another carpark. Take the stairs down from the carpark. At the bottom of the stairs go to the right until you reach the sand.

There is a drop from the rocks to the sand, but it is possible to climb through a small cave near the rock face.

Where To Stay:

Waihi, Waihi beach town, or the Bowentown camp.

Ethic:

The site features at least Maori Pa.

No particular ethics need to be followed aside from being respectful and not damaging the area.

1.5.4. Reporoa Gorge 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 176.393690, -38.494768

1.5.5. Tarawera Falls 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 176.520287, -38.163034

1.6. Lake Taupo 399 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.863971, -38.809220

Description:

In the middle of the North Island is Lake Taupo, site of a once massive volcanic eruption.

'Whanganui Bay' is the predominant crag of the region, seeing development from the 1980's. More recently however, 'Kawakawa Bay' provides equally fantastic climbing.

Climbs tend to be on cliff faces coming right out of the lake with heights of upto 100m. The general rock type is welded ignimbrite, providing great friction and great features for use as holds. There are both crack and face climbs, tending for both sport and trad climbers alike.

1.6.1. Taupo East 141 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 176.083973, -38.762186

1.6.2. Taupo West 258 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 175.762391, -38.831190

1.7. Tongariro National Park 164 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.576068, -39.224213

Description:

Tongariro National Park is located around three central mountain peaks Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngarahoe and Mt Tongariro. The climbing tends to be more adventurous due to its mountain environment.

There is sport and trad climbing in summer (or winter for the brave!) and alpine style routes for winter.

For the more adventurous, there are plenty of first ascents to be had on trad lines around the summits.

1.7.1. Mangatepopo Valley 136 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 175.607615, -39.145976

1.7.2. Tawhitikuri Valley 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7.3. Whakapapa Gorge 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 175.561494, -39.235145

Description:

Sideways columnar basalt, 15 minutes walk from the skifield car park

Approach:

Walk east from the Top of the Bruce toward Meads Wall, turn left up the ridge, continuing along a vague track. Stay to the left of the cliff top and walk down the slope to the end of the bluff, turn right and walk back up the valley along the base of the cliff.

Where To Stay:

Nearest accommodation is at Whakapapa Village.

1.7.4. Ruapehu Crag 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7.5. White Falls 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

The steepest crag in New Zealand, averaging over 50 degrees

1.8. Taranaki 9 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.063000, -39.296050

1.8.1. Mount Taranaki (Egmont) 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 174.059397, -39.294470

1.9. Wellington 14 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 174.785830, -41.252078

1.9.1. Baring Head 0 routes in Crag

1.9.2. Titahi Bay 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 174.845264, -41.091676

1.9.3. Pukerua Bay 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 174.875475, -41.030328

Description:

These small gems of crags are often overlooked. What they lack in size they make up for in atmosphere and variety of climbing. The Arch is almost the great Wellington roadside attraction, with its concentration of hard bouldering; the Dionysiac Slab has good beginners’ climbs; Nobby’s Cave provides steep sport climbing; and Wairaka Rock is a tall sea stack. When to go One of the major attractions of this venue is that it is sheltered from all but the most driving northerly wind. Great conditions can be had in a southerly and a gusty nor’wester. However, if it’s been raining hard then leave the Arch for a day or two, as it will seep. What to bring You’ll want a bouldering mat at the Arch. Possibly two. The landings are nice and flat but consist almost entirely of rocks. You’ll also want a spotter. Although the problems climb solid features, some of the rock can be less than perfect. A small, soft wire-brush for cleaning moss (and soot) off some of the holds may also be useful. But please go easy on the rock. All the lead climbs are bolted, and double ropes may be useful on Wairaka Rock.

Approach:

Take State Highway 1 north from Wellington for 25 minutes to Pukerua Bay. Turn off down Pukerua Beach Road and drive along to the end of Ocean Parade. Park the car here and walk along the beach for five minutes to the Arch and a further ten minutes to the rest of the crag.

1.9.4. Turakirae Head 0 routes in Crag

1.9.5. Pencarrow Head 0 routes in Crag

1.9.6. Fly Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.9.7. Tinui 0 routes in Crag

1.9.8. Mount Kaukau 0 routes in Crag

1.9.9. Ning Nong 0 routes in Crag

1.9.10. Te Ikaamaru Bay 0 routes in Crag

1.9.11. Makara 0 routes in Crag

1.9.12. Turbine Rock 0 routes in Crag