Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Kerikeri Landing Track side boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Trackside traverse
Obvious right to left traverse starting from the prominent jug/horn beside the tree at the far right of the outcrop. Rising leftwards traverse, with some small holds beneath the prow. Avoid large jugs above and continue around corner to left end of outcrop to finish FA: RobScot, 2002 | ||||
V9 | ★★ Lockdown
This is a low level right to left variant of the Trackside Traverse problem starting on the same obvious large jug as for Trackside traverse). Heel hook on jug/break for right foot to start and then stay low using the small slopers and crimps to traverse left around the prow. FA: RobScot, 17 Feb 2020 | ||||
V2 | ★ The prow (left)
The obvious easy line up the left side of the prow (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out) FA: RobScot, 2002 | ||||
V2 | ★ The prow (right)
The obvious easy line up the right side of the prow in the middle of the outcrop (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out) FA: RobScot, 2002 | ||||
Abbey Caves Eugene Sloper Corridor | |||||
V3 | ★★ Careful Of That Sloper, Eugene
The most popular problem at the corridor. Start matched on the amazing sloper and finish up and left. Drop off. FA: Hh Tribels, 2013 | 4m | |||
Eugene Right Exit
Start as for Eugene, head out right to the arete and finish as for Secret Rules of Engagement. | 4m | ||||
V5 | ★ Secret Rules Of Engagement
Sit start with the right on a bad pinch and the left on the lowest edge. Head straight up the sharp arete. This problem is to the right of Eugene. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | Prometheus
Sit start matched on the slopey horn. Go for the arete. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 3m | |||
V4/5 | ★★ Wowan Krab Dancing
Start matched on the right. Traverse left to Prometheus, finish up the arete. FA: Maggie Lin & Sean Huang, 26 Feb 2023 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Intimations of Immortality
Climb the tall steep face with some big compression moves. You will find this climb just up the hill from Eugene at an amazing formation to the right of the big tree. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★ Crimp and Slap
Sit start with a left side pull and a right crimp. Head straight up to the horn. This climb is just up the hill from Eugene. FA: Leon Rudman, 2020 | 3m | |||
Abbey Caves The Bubba Sector | |||||
V2 | Green Fingers
Sit start matched on the seam and go for the top. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 2m | |||
V4 | Bubba
Start as for Green Fingers, make a big move out left and continue traversing around to mantle. Fight the dab. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Bonzo's Montreaux
SDS with the right hand on a crimpy pinch and the left low on the arete. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 3m | |||
Abbey Caves The Archway | |||||
V2 | the Zombie Room
Start matched on the arete and finish on the blocky jug. FA: 2020 | 3m | |||
V3 | Straight Outta Compton
Sit start from the pillar and head through the roof to finish on the blocky jug. Pad the sharp boulder behind you for the finish. FA: 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | Something Something Traverse
Climb the smooth lip from left to right. | 4m | |||
Abbey Caves Top Tier Boulders | |||||
Roof Project
Sit start matched on the sloper to the right of the groove. head through the roof to exit onto the face using diagonal rails. | 4m | ||||
Abbey Caves The Backside Trail | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Freak of Nature
Sit start matched on the slopey fin. A big move out right to the far lip will set you up for the finish up the arete. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2020 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Sam's Cave
Start as for Freak of Nature but head straight up pinching the fin. FA: H Triebels, 2013 | 4m | |||
Tear Drop Project
Start as for Freak of Nature, traverse left to right along the sloping lip to a shallow tear drop feature and finish with a hard mantle onto the slab. needs more cleaning. | 4m | ||||
V2 | So Chill
Start with a high right foot and left hand palm down. Keep just to the right of where the grassy ledge is on the boulder. Head in a straight line up the rock. The grass ledge is out for this climb FA: Jack Butler, Dec 2022 | 6m | |||
Abbey Caves Wasp Town | |||||
V7 | ★★ The Brian Wasp Town Massacre
Right hand on a an edge under roof and the left on a good edge. Head straight up for the groove. FA: H Triebels, 2011 | 5m | |||
Ngahere Drive Top Rocks | |||||
24 | ★ Rise and shine
Direct LH boulder start to Sunshine Daydream - joins original at the scoop FA: RobScot, 19 Feb 2020 | ||||
15 | B.O.G.
| 5m | |||
14 | Sloping Shinney
| 4m | |||
15 | Sunrise Slab
| 5m | |||
Ngahere Drive Main Crag | |||||
14 | A Nalp Assage
| 6m | |||
Ngahere Drive The Island | |||||
V9 | ★★ Backsliding
Left hand variant to Mosquito Monkeys, starts 1m left of the arete on small edges to layaways before rejoining the arete and better holds FA: RobScot, 19 Feb 2020 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Mosquito Monkeys
Obvious slightly overhanging arete you can see from the road. Nice ear hand hold halfway up climb. FA: H Triebels, 2010 | 5m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Mosquito Monkeys Sit Start
Sit start on slightly overhanging arete. FA: H Triebels, 2011 | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Mosquito Monkeys RH start
Easier RH sit start using crack and edge on RH side of arete for first move | ||||
Taurikura Beach Boulders | |||||
V2 | ★ Swords Up
Start standing on the far left of the boulder in the sword grass. Starting hold is obvious right hand lump. FA: Philip Vaudrey, 24 Oct 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Do it in Jandals
Very slabby. All feet. Start with right hand in the pocket. FA: Philip Vaudrey, 24 Oct 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Beached As
Quite slabby feet climb. Big jug at the top on the right. FA: Philip Vaudrey, 24 Oct 2018 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Phantom Scollop | 3m | |||
Mangawhai Heads | |||||
V0 | Powderfinger
Up left short side FA: 1998 | ||||
V2 | Go Guanage
Traverse across the top lip end to end. FA: Glenn Erik Johannessen, 2006 | ||||
V6/7 | The Seagull's Lunch
Up left face FA: Michael Welson, 2005 | ||||
V6/7 | ★ Salty Sea Spray
The face just to the left of super extra gravity. Start on two opposing side pulls, the left is good. Head up to the jug in the break then to the top via a small edge and some slopers. FA: Charlie Birch, 2023 | ||||
V8 | Super Extra Gravity
Up face / shallow crack FA: Michael Welson, 2006 | ||||
V4 | ★ Stream of the Stingray
Up obvious seam in middle FA: Michael Welson, 2005 | ||||
V7 | Skidbladnir
Up face right of middle seam FA: Michael Welson, 2005 | ||||
V0 | Endtroducing
Up right side FA: 1998 | ||||
Waipu Cove The Point | |||||
V0- | ★ Left Arête
On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Climb the arête using the least sharp holds you can find finishing up the slightly overhanging face. FA: Richard Flinn, Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
V0+ | Right Arête
On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Sit start. Use the juggy arête out left and the crack out right to work your way up. Finish up and left. FA: Richard Flinn, Aug 2018 | 3m | |||
Ōhakiri - St. Paul’s Rock Pebble | |||||
V2 | ★ Oversized Concrete
Sit start on the right with a big pinch and undercling , stay in the small roof as long a possible and then transfer onto the face to finish. FA: Adam H, 7 Dec 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Spider Crawl
Sit start in the right hand roof, pull though onto the face and traverse to the left stay low though the harder part and straight out up to the finish. FA: Adam H, 7 Dec 2020 | 6m | |||
★ Take It Easy
Start as low as you can and pick and choose your holds on the way up! FA: Alex Wagstaff, 7 Dec 2020 | 2m | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Butternut Squash Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★★ Butternut
Sit start. Match on the jug in the large crack. Head straight up with a big move and then follow the nice holds to the left. FA: Samuel Blok | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Squash
Sit start. Match on the same jug in the large crack. Head to the right and mantle around the top right corner. FA: Leon Rudman | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Forest Cliff | |||||
V4 | ★★ High Heels
Stand start. Match on the large flat hold. Head left to top out at the horn. FA: Leon Rudman | 2m | |||
V0 | Black Angus
Stand start with a hand on each side of the face. Head straight up the black slab to reach the jug and top out. Easy for those tall enough to reach. A tough challenge for those who aren't. FA: Ali Vaughan | ||||
V3 | ★ Dark Matter
Match on the broken pinch and head up and right. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 23 Dec 2020 | 3m | |||
V9 | Oppression Breeds Rebellion
Start on two shallow pockets. Big move to the right then same finish as High Heels. FA: Marco Lefebvre | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Compaction Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Fling Thing
Start matched on the large feature in the middle of the face. Throw a big move for the arête then use high right hand holds to top out at the peak. FA: Aug 2020 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Compaction
Right hand on the bad sloper out on the face, left on the knob. Throw the heal up then work hands up holds to a position to mantle. FA: Marco Lefebvre | 2m | |||
V7 | Y’all Right
Sit start from two rounded edges and move to jug via crimp. Wrestle the mantle. FA: Angus Crowley | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Rusty Bucket Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Rusty Bucket
Right hand under cling left hand pinch. Head up on the left arete and then right on the slopey rounded holds. FA: Marco Lefebvre | ||||
V4 | ★ Andy's Problem
Match on the edge in the middle of the face and throw to the smooth jug. FA: Nov 2020 | 3m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Forest This Might Be a Problem Boulder | |||||
V3 | This might be a problem
Find the right balance from a shallow left hand depression under the bulge and a right hand edge. FA: Marco Lefebvre | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Shark Tooth Boulder | |||||
V0 | Shark tooth
tart matched in the left channel. Reach across to the right channel then top out there. FA: Ali Vaughan | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Forest A Little Lip Action Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ A Little Lip Action
Traverse up and right along the ever changing lip. FA: Marco Lefebvre | 6m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Capercaillie Boulder | |||||
V0 | Capercaillie
Start matched on obvious smooth block. Head right and then straight up. FA: Ali Vaughan | 2m | |||
V2 | Foxgloves
Match start on the thin ridge. Stand up and use a far right side pull or precision footwork to reach the top. FA: Jérémie Delaitre | 3m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Warmup Boulder | |||||
VB+ | Warm up
Sit-start on the big jug. FA: James Tiffin | 3m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Free Range Boulder | |||||
V0 | Big Jug Traverse
Traverse left to right along the juggy lip and finish past Free Range. FA: Marco Lefebvre | ||||
V1 | Free Range
Traverse left to right along the juggy lip and finish past Free Range. FA: marco Lefebvre | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Flash Gordan Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Flash Gordan
Sit start matched low in the crack. Throw up to a pinch then traverse left along a nice series of crimps. FA: Will Watterson | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Forest Strawberry Girl Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Strawberry Girl
Sit start matched on prominent juggy crack down and right. Move out left to traverse along seam and top out. Avoid topping out early - try to get to the left end of the seam before topping out. Problem is located to the left of Butternut, down the embankment. FA: Luke Davies | ||||
V3 | Ooga Booga
Start with each hand on an undercling. Head right to the sharp side pull then to the top. FA: Matt Blok | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Gully Arachnophobia Boulder | |||||
V2 | Pumpkin Pie Hair-Cutted Freak
FA: Marco Lefebvre | 3m | |||
V1 | Arachnophobia
Sit start and find a way to climb the crack. FA: Ali Vaughan | 2m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Gully Greedy Bugger Boulder | |||||
V2 | Greedy Bugger
Match low on the hold around the arete on the right. Move along the arete, transition to the left side of the boulder and mantle to the left of the peak. FA: Samuel Blok | 3m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Gully Sun's Out Guns Out Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★ Sun's Out Guns Out
Start on the arête. Climb the tall prow and top out to the left. FA: Stuart Kurth | ||||
V1 | Banana Slip
Match on the arête. Move up the right side. FA: Eva Blok | 5m | |||
V0 | Apple Crumple
Match on the arête. Move up the left side. FA: Leon Rudman | ||||
V0 | ★ The Eel
Climb the pinches and jugs. About 4m to the left of Sun's Out. FA: 29 Dec 2020 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ I, the Slabmaster
Stand start with right hand on the gutter side, left hand on small crimp, climb the rail to the top. FA: Ashkan FA: Jan 2021 | 5m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Gully Butterfly Creek Boulder | |||||
V4 | Butterfly Creek
Start with two good handholds while your right foot is towards the creek and go to the left. RISK of falling into the creek. FA: Leon Rudman | 4m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Gully Shady Traverse Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Shady Traverse
Match on the long juggy ridge. Leap between jugs or include a few crimps to top out on the right. FA: Samuel Blok | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ What We Do in the Shade
Start on good hold below orange streak. Move up to jug and throw left to arete. Once standing on boulder, it is easier to downclimb than fight past the tree. Throw is span dependent but there is a static method. FA: Luke Davies | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Gully Into the Abyss Boulder | |||||
V5 | Into the Abyss
Match start on right sloper. Head left along the slopey ridges to reach the jug and top out. FA: Samuel Blok | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Yard Hornet Nest Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Hornet Nest
Match on the obvious jug. Head straight up to higher holds and top out. FA: Samuel Blok | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Kicking the Hornet Nest
Start far along the left side. Traverse along the crack to the start jug and finish with Hornet Nest from there. FA: Leon Rudman | ||||
V1 | Do Not Disturb
Start by matching your hands on the trail while smearing on the wall. Take the left pull and use the good jugs to climb the rock. FA: Norci Hodu | 3m | |||
V2 | Do Disturb
Start by matching your hands on the rail while smearing on the wall. Match on the second rail in the middle, then go for the big jug on the left and finish the climb. FA: Luke Davies | 3m | |||
Wairere Boulders The Yard Milkshake Boulder | |||||
V2 | Milkshake
Sit start. Match on the arete low to the left. Move up to the right then stretch around the overhang to transition to the right side and mantle there.
| ||||
Wairere Boulders Sleepy Hollow Thop | |||||
V5 | Thop
Match start on the good ridge and dyno the triangle on the top and find a way to rock over. There are two good holds for the right and left feet. FA: Marco Lefebvre | 2m | |||
Wairere Boulders Sleepy Hollow Pyramid | |||||
V1 | ★ Line Rider
Stand start with hands on the arete. Walk your hands along the slopy arete while making use of foot holds as they come along. Top out to the left of the peak. Great fun for the whole family. FA: Leon Rudman | 5m | |||
V3 | Defeeted
Stand start on jugs and use the pockets or razor crimp to reach the hole and top out to the left of the peak. FA: Leon Rudman | 5m | |||
V4 | Sunsleeper
Stand start with a pointy crimp and a rounded rail. Move left to the slopers and then to the large pocket jug. Top out to the right of the peak. FA: Kristov Sokratov | ||||
Wairere Boulders East Bank | |||||
V2 | Underbelly
Start from the far-right and try to traverse to the far left and climb to the top. FA: Leon Rudman | 3m | |||
V5 | Big Kahuna
start by matching on the crack and continue climbing until you need to make a big reach with your left hand into the crack to find a good jug, then use other jugs to finish the climb. FA: Leon Rudman | 3m | |||
Wairere Boulders Lower Highlands Cow Boulder | |||||
V2 | Brown Cow
Match on the corner of the wall and climb the arete. There are good jugs once you reach the middle of the climb. FA: Marco Lefebvre | 2m | |||
V2 | Sky Pilot
Climb the tall dark face to the groove. #Highball FA: Marco Lefebvre | ||||
Wairere Boulders Lower Highlands Calf Boulder | |||||
V1 | Calf and a Half
Start from the corner and traverse the route FA: Leon Rudman | 3m | |||
V6 | Casting Shade
FA: Marco Lefebvre | ||||
Wairere Boulders Lower Highlands Dirty Saddle Boulder | |||||
V1 | Dirty Saddle
Start matched on the small ledge. Rock up to the pocket and find your way to the top. FA: Becky Holwerda | ||||
Wairere Boulders The Jungle | |||||
V5 | Dark Knight
Sit start with the left on a bad pinch and the right low on the arete. Climb the black featureless arete to better holds. Highball FA: Marco Lefebvre |