Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
26 | ★★ Rubble
The line of bolts immediately to the left of Gorilla Grip. Ascend to a distinct crux above the 3rd bolt, then continue up to top out through a slot left of the bolt line. Jump off. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2004 | 14m, 6 | Barnett Park | ||
27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip
Cave classic and always climbed on. Most people's first climb here. Start up the short slab and continue straight up to the chains over the lip of the cave. Most people jump off the top instead of clipping the chains to avoid destroying their rope. FA: Matt Evrard, 1993 | 15m, 7 | Barnett Park | ||
28 | ★★ Let There Be Bolts
Cave classic. Interesting, sustained moves that slowly get harder as you go. Sustained, funky, bouldery moves on the right hand side of the cave. Starts on a large bulge about 5m left of the waterfall. Equipped with permadraws and a lower-off. FA: Peter Taw, 1993 | 13m, 6 | Barnett Park | ||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo
Great flowing moves make this New Zealand's endurance testpiece! Starts in the central, deepest part of the cave. Climb straight up the veer left at 4th bolt. The draining start gives way to big holds. Two cruxes are placed conveniently at the very end for when you are completely pumped. Set: Matt Evrard FA: Peter Taw, 1994 | Barnett Park | |||
28 | ★ She Devil
Start as for Super Glue. Traverse right past the 4th bolt of Rubble to join and finish up Gorilla Grip. Awesome endurance climb. FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998 | 8 | Barnett Park | ||
26 | ★ Super Glue
Start at the extreme left side of the cave and commence traversing right on jugs. At the 4th bolt, head straight up on the glued crimps, finishing at the lip of the cave. Significantly harder after losing a crucial jug. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998 | Barnett Park | |||
27 | ★★ Groundhog Day
Go halfway up Bolts and break right above the big blob. Some long moves lead you to the Attack Mode anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | 13m, 7 | Barnett Park | ||
27 | ★★ Shrubble
Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right on jugs to join Rubble at the 5th bolt. As for Rubble, there is no anchor so just jump off. | 12m, 7 | Barnett Park | ||
25 | ★ Straight, No Chaser
Start as for Attack Mode but instead of angling left to the pockets after the initial boulder problem, angle right to the Iceman anchor, skirting to the left side of the roof. May also be started from the right to avoid Attack Mode’s often wet start. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998 | 13m, 6 | Barnett Park | ||
26 | ★ Urge
Unsafe to climb since the earthquakes as a huge block is loose above the start. FA: Brian Alder, 1993 | Barnett Park | |||
28 | ★ Les Nouvelles Pastes De Christ
Start as for Super Glue, and traverse right as for Shrubble. Like She Devil, this line finishes up Gorilla Grip. However, instead of joining GG at Rubble's 4th bolt, continue higher to the 5th bolt of Rubble and traverse right to join GG from here. FA: Tom Hoyle, 2005 | Barnett Park | |||
18 | Wasabe
FA: Simon Courtois | 17m | Barnett Park | ||
25 | Super Choss
Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right past 3 bolts, then head straight up via big moves to reach the jug rail. Follow this right to the Super Glue anchors. | Barnett Park | |||
26 | ★ Ice-Man
Start as for Attack Mode. After the initial boulder problem, angle right and climb straight through the roof. FA: Alex Palman, 1998 | 13m, 6 | Barnett Park | ||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode
Bouldery start leads left to good pockets, then back right with sustained climbing and some hard moves through the roof. FA: Peter Taw, 1993 | Barnett Park | |||
20 | Konnichiwa
FA: Tony Burnell, Aug 2014 | 17m | Barnett Park | ||
26 | ★ Grumble
Climb Gorilla Grip to its 5th bolt then break left across the obvious rail to join the top of Rubble. | 7 | Barnett Park | ||
23 | Rowdy Ronnie Piper
The right-most route inside the Cave. A bouldery start leads to a rest at the ledge. Finish up and right at the manky anchor. | 10m, 4 | Barnett Park | ||
17 | ★★ Brownie
FA: Warren Smith, Jul 2014 | 7 | Barnett Park | ||
19 | ★ Chicken Head Road
FA: Tony Burnell, 2014 | 10m, 5 | Barnett Park | ||
18 | Waitaha
FA: Pam Yee, Jul 2014 | 10m | Barnett Park | ||
32 | ★★ Space Boy
Classic. Line directly to the left of Dracula. Climb the vague arête to the pod, then angle right, following the line of permadraws. Continue through another crux to the lip of the cave for the extended version. FA: Matt Evrard, 1994 FA: Kaz Pucia, 1995 | Barnett Park | |||
19 | ★ Orient Express
FA: Tony Burnell, Jul 2014 | 15m, 5 | Barnett Park | ||
26 | The Frumious Bandasnatch
The rightmost route on the Great Wall. Scramble up to the ledge with bulbous features and very chossy rock to clip first two bolts. From here, blast through the overhang with bouldery sequences and improving rock quality to an anchor over the lip. FA: Jarod Alexander, Nov 2014 | 6 | Barnett Park | ||
25 | ★ PHD
FA: Tony Burnell, Dec 2014 | 20m, 8 | Barnett Park | ||
25 | Conundrum
FA: Tony Burnell, Dec 2014 | 20m | Barnett Park | ||
23 | ★ Drop Zone
FA: Alan Monnox, 1997 | 15m, 7 | Barnett Park | ||
23 | ★ American Express
FA: Tony Burnell, 2014 | 15m, 5 | Barnett Park | ||
27 | ★ Hung Like Elvis
Start up the line of bolts to the right of Kaz's. Climb up to a dyno and then traverse into the pigeon pod of Ride of the Valkyries. Finish here on a single bolt. FA: John McCallum, 1994 | Barnett Park | |||
24 | ★★ Jumping And Squeaking
FA: Tony Burnell, 1997 | 15m, 6 | Barnett Park | ||
25 | ★ Roger Parker
FA: Sefton Priestly, 1999 | 4 | Barnett Park | ||
23 | China Crisis
FA: Tony Burnell, Jul 2014 | 15m, 5 | Barnett Park | ||
17 | ★★ Sun Lover
FA: Tony Burnell | Barnett Park | |||
30 | ★ Kaiser Soze
Start up Bogus but go right at the 4th bolt into the no hands rest. From here continue up and right to the lip of the cave. Was originally climbed by Alex Palman with glued holds at 29, and recently broke to become harder again. Set: Alex Palman FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2004 | Barnett Park | |||
19 | ★★ Tsingtao
FA: Tony Burnell, Jul 2014 | 15m, 5 | Barnett Park | ||
19 | ★ Ergo
FA: Simon Courtois | 17m | Barnett Park | ||
20 | Infinity Times Two
Single bolt anchor. Significant earthquake damage/ choss at the top. Dangerous. FA: Perry Logan | 15m, 3 | Barnett Park | ||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode
Start up Bolts, then break right at the third bolt, cross the black streak, and angle up and right to finish as for Attack Mode. FA: Sefton Priestley, 2017 | Barnett Park | |||
23 | Corner Crimes
FA: Tony Burnell, 1997 | 8 | Barnett Park | ||
23 | Red 50
Climb the first three bolts of ‘Red Snapper’, move left after the third bolt into the top of the ‘50/50’ groove and finish for that route. | 15m, 6 | Barnett Park | ||
20 | Bailo
FA: Simon Courtois | Barnett Park | |||
26 | ★★ Ripped Like Elvis
FA: John McCallum, 1993 | 5 | Barnett Park | ||
19 | ★ 101-2=99
FA: Pam Yee, Oct 2015 | Barnett Park | |||
21 | Spanish Johnny
FA: Simon Courtois | Barnett Park | |||
30 | ★★★ Dracula
Classic power endurance line, and the direct start to Nosferatu. Was originally 32 but has been downgraded due to hold breakage and poor re-gluing. Follow the line of bolts just right of Space Boy, angling slight right until you reach the wet jug. From here, join Nosferatu. Set: Kaz Pucia FA: Kaz Pucia, 2003 | Barnett Park | |||
25 | ★★ Bulge-let
FA: Tony Bunell, 1997 | 20m, 7 | Barnett Park | ||
17 | Gone Postal
Start to the top left of gorilla grip / she devil Traverse right then follow the bolts up to a double ring belay station. FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998 | 12m, 6 | Barnett Park | ||
15 | D'Want
FA: Pam Yee, Jul 2014 | Barnett Park | |||
19 | Tequila Layback | Barnett Park | |||
21 | ★ Full Length Feature
FA: Tony Burnell, Aug 2014 | 18m, 6 | Barnett Park | ||
28 | ★ Intifada
FA: Pat Deavoll, 2003 | 6 | Barnett Park | ||
22 | Concrete and Clay
FA: Tony Burnell, Jul 2014 | 15m | Barnett Park | ||
15 | ★★ The Parsons Nose
FA: Tony Burnell, Jun 2014 | Barnett Park | |||
24 | ★ Wishbone
FA: Tony Burnell, 2014 | 15m, 5 | Barnett Park | ||
19 | Boy From China
FA: Chen, Jul 2014 | 15m | Barnett Park | ||
25 | ★ Staunch Like Elvis
FA: John McCallum, 1993 | 5 | Barnett Park | ||
18 | ★ Millionaire Slice
FA: Pam Yee | 5 | Barnett Park | ||
22 | ★ Keep Those Hands Moving
FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998 | Barnett Park | |||
23/24 | Petrol Head
FA: John Birch, 1993 | 5 | Barnett Park | ||
30 | ★★★ Bukujutsu
Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch. From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left. At the 'one jug' feature below the horizontal crack, traverse right to the 8th bolt of Bogus at the 'boobs'. Finish up Bogus. Set: Derek Thatcher FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | Barnett Park | |||
19 | Light Duties
FA: Richard Kimberley, 1998 | Barnett Park | |||
33 | ★★★ Paint It Black
Starts immediately left of Bogus. Climb straight up to the first kneebar of Bogus at its 5th bolt, then finish as for Bogus. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2019 | Barnett Park | |||
25 | ★ Gorgon
FA: Tony Burnell, Nov 2014 | Barnett Park | |||
26 | ★★ Earned
FA: Richard Kimberley, 2001 | 10 | Barnett Park | ||
17 | Shower In A Can
FA: Pam Yee, Jul 2014 | Barnett Park | |||
32 | Centripetal Force
Climb Bogus to the flat ledge at its 9th bolt. From here, traverse hard left all the way to join Gorilla Grip at its 5th bolt and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | Barnett Park | |||
26 | ★ Gorgonzola
Start on the pillar between Gorgon and 50/50. Climb past a thin section past 3 bolts, then link into the top of Gorgon. FA: David Jefferson, 17 Mar | 18m, 5 | Barnett Park | ||
28 | ★ Elephant Tits
Start as for Gorilla Grip. At the third bolt, veer right to the good jug on Troglodyte, then veer up and left to rejoin GG at the 5th bolt and finish as for the original. FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005 | Barnett Park | |||
22 | Easy-Peasy | Barnett Park | |||
29 | Elephant Grips
Same as for Elephant Tits, but after zigging back left to the 5th bolt of Gorilla Grip, zag right again to join Kaz's Project and top out as for this route. FA: Andy Cockburn, 2005 | Barnett Park | |||
31 | Space Invader
Climb Space Boy, but at the 7th bolt, instead of going straight up, angle right to finish at a lower anchor to the right of the small tree. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | Barnett Park | |||
13 | Sonic Bloom
FA: Alan Hill, 2004 | Barnett Park | |||
31 | King Of Snake
Climb Kaz's to the dyno at the 4th bolt, then angle up and right to the kneebar rest at the 7th bolt of Bogus. Climb to the next bolt of Bogus, then at the 'boobs', go up and right to finish on the Hauser anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | Barnett Park | |||
33 | Attack Balam
Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left all the way to the Bogus Machismo anchor. A massive linkup of the entire right side of the Cave! FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | Barnett Park | |||
30 | ★★ Troglodyte
The line of bolts all the way at the back of the central cave. Ascend to the 3rd draw then angle left to eventually join Gorilla Grip. Seven boulder problems between jugs. Set: Ivan Vostinar FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003 | Barnett Park | |||
15 | Smart Choice
FA: Pete Gresham, 2004 | Barnett Park | |||
16 | Continental Drift
FA: Joe Arts, 2009 | Barnett Park | |||
31 | Bogus Hauser
Climb Bogus to the first kneebar at the 6th bolt. Angle up and right to join the Enigma of Kasper Hauser and finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | Barnett Park | |||
20 | Barnett Fair | Barnett Park | |||
31 | The Phantom
Climb Gorilla Grip to the 3rd bolt, then traverse right to the good jug on Troglodyte. Keep angling up and right to the good rest before the final crux of Kaz's, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | Barnett Park | |||
31 | Drac Invader
An extension to Dracula. Climb that route but instead of finishing as for Nosferatu, continue on to the Space Invader anchors. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2021 | Barnett Park | |||
21 | ★ If Not Now
Damaged during the earthquakes. FA: Colin Daniels, 1994 | 4 | Barnett Park | ||
14 | Communicate
FA: Pete Gresham, 2004 | Barnett Park | |||
29 | Snake Charmer
Climb Hung Like Elvis to the pigeon pod, then continue up to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus and finish as for that route. FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2003 | Barnett Park | |||
30 | Van Helsing
Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, and traverse left to the Nosferatu anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2017 | Barnett Park | |||
32 | The Enigma of Kasper Hauser
The line of bolts just right of The Baron. Hard boulder problem to start into rest hole. From here, continue up into an inverted crux! Finish at the anchor just to the right of Bogus. Set: Matt Evrard FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005 | Barnett Park | |||
15 | Everything’s Fourteen
FA: Pete Gresham, 2004 | Barnett Park | |||
13 | Quantitative Easing
FA: Alan Hill, 2009 | Barnett Park | |||
31 | Kevin Spacey
Climb Bogus to the 4th bolt, then traverse right to join Kaiser Soze. At the undercling rest, instead of going straight up, traverse right all the way to the Space Boy finish. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2007 | Barnett Park | |||
23 | Feeding Frenzy | Barnett Park | |||
24 | Puzzling World
FA: Tony Burnell, Dec 2014 | Barnett Park | |||
33 | The Phantom Menace
Same as for the Phantom, but at the good rest near the top of Kaz's, continue right to the flat ledge at the penultimate bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2016 | Barnett Park | |||
31 | Bloodlust
An extension to Dracula. Climb that route but instead of finishing as for Nosferatu, continue on to the Space Boy anchors. FA: Max Farr, 2008 | Barnett Park | |||
13 | Behind The Wall
Damaged during the earthquakes. FA: Colin Daniels, 1994 | Barnett Park | |||
16 | Ornithosis Groove
FA: Alan Hill, 2004 | Barnett Park | |||
31 | The Fat Controller
Starts at the line of bolts between Hung Like Elvis and Ride of the Valkyries. Climb to the pigeon perch (just left of the pigeon pod). From here, follow the line of bolts that leads up and left, then join Kaz's Project at its 7th bolt. Finish as for Kaz's. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006 | Barnett Park | |||
29 | Attack Surge
Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, then traverse left to finish at the Urge anchor. FA: Derek Thatcher, 2008 | Barnett Park | |||
33 | Hydroplaning
Start up Troglodyte. At its 3rd draw, traverse right all the way to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt of Bogus, then finish as for that route. FA: Mark Pugh-Williams, 2013 | Barnett Park | |||
21 | Finding Out
FA: Pete Gresham & Alan Hill, 2004 | Barnett Park | |||
22 | What Shall We Teach Them
FA: Warren Smith, 2014 | 12m, 5 | Barnett Park |