Lyttelton Rock Guide

Obvious corner with crack system. One of the best of the early lines, with good gear options

On the blunt arete left of Prophet of Doom.

climb up to underclings and large feet under the overlap feature, clipping a high first bolt and then pulling up to good gear in a horizontal. Follow the flake feature up and right with obvious but sparse gear easily to double modern anchor

Climbs the obvious crack dividing the two walls between Promised Land on the left, and Restless on the right

Climb Steppenwolf to the ledge then follow a faint weakness between Steppenwolf and Restless.

Warning Rock: Two loose-ish blocks, be careful

Boulder up the juggy wall & faint corner to ledge and corner crack. Crux near the top. Move left at the top. Double bolt belay. Good pro.

starts as for the trad route Envirnment centre, then out to 2 spaced bolts with maybe some supplemental gear.

Direct start into White Lies, toprope by preclipping first bolt, or else solo/boulder? up to it, possibly place some gear to the right, but why bother

Trad route starts with good holds up the overhang and plenty of solid gear. Above, the angle eases. There is a manky old rusty pin and some questionable other gear on the top half, but the difficulty eases substantially

Starts just left of Leaning Wall, on big holds to the first bolt. A fierce crux presents itself immediately off of the ledge, then eases to a juggy ramble. Join Leaning Wall above the last bolt.

Climb onto ledge then onto block, then ascend the steep featured wall, to the left of the vegetated crack.

Bouldery moves through the overhang to the right of Carbon Neutral. Above the roof, carry on up the arête.

Fierce crimping up the face of the overhanging pillar shaped wall. Small incuts past the first bolt to a rest out left and a trad placement, then up three more bolts on the headwall.

Climb Ground Effect to the second bolt, then join Victim of Ravishment to finish. Possibly the hardest line on the wall, though probably not harder than Raj or Ground Effect by a full grade.

What was once a very bold mixed line is now a fully bolted sport route. Start as for Victim, but follow the arching flake left at the 3rd bolt, the angle straight up at the 5th.

Once one of the most heads up routes around, this line has recently been retrobolted and is now a sport climb. Start up Victim but instead of breaking right at the flake, carry on straight up. Excellent, sustained movement and good rock.

Start up the cracks and moving left as for the Active Ingredient, then move back right off the big flake to the second bolt. There is a good cam placement after the third bolt, and the angle eases, but still exciting to the top.

Start behind the horopito tree to the right of the standard start. Move up the thin wall past 2 bolts then join the standard route at the 3rd. Pumpy if you avoid the rest left of the 3rd bolt.

rebolted by Tony in 2016, this is a great warm-up or a good lead for those breaking into 20 on lead. Climbs good flat holds just left of the vegetation and up into the quake scar at the top.

Climbs the corner just above the track, immediately left of Dr Strangelove. Originally attacked the corner directly, but broken holds necessitate traversing in from the left. 2 bolts and gear for the cracks above.

The line of 4 bolts immediately right of the Scratching Julius crack. Boulder up to the top of the shield feature, where you will find consistently engaging climbing all the way to the anchors, on some of the best rock in the Port Hills. This route is safely bolted, but prepare for air time if you come off!

The bolts are perfectly placed, as long as you don't fall at the start... or the end. Good climbing.

Start just right of Citizen Kane at the obvious fridge feature. Yes, it is possible to climb into the corner right of the bolt line for 24 points, but the better option is to take the direct line up the fridge, as intended. Some creative beta leads to better holds above the second bolt, to an easier but pumpy finish.

The line of bolts immediately to the left of Hornet's Nest. Ascend to a small roof where you can find the first bolt, then make big moves on mostly good but sometimes hard to see holds for the next several bolts.

Start between Minimal Disturbance and Funication, in the middle of the main part of the Year Right Wall. Climb the surprisingly technical slab, then surmount the roof following the v-groove. Execute a mantle and then ramble to the top, linking into the last two bolts of Funication.

Start in the largish left facing corner around to the left of Nanny State below the roofs. Climb up the corner and out to a ledge to the right. Then climb up the bulge and up and left on slabs to the anchor.

Up narrow dihedral section to high first bolt. Climbs then easily to rap station.

Starts in the corner to the left of Layer Cake and joins this route in the overhanging chimney.

At the left hand end of The Thunderdome, goes directly up through the groove in the roof to the left of Gone Bimbo.

Warning Fixed Gear: Damaged perma draw

The obvious line on the L end of the roof. Often wet. Pull to the fourth bolt then traverse R along the crack. Previously required a cam at the end of the traverse; now there's an extra bolt. There's also a new anchor to the left of the original anchor, which has rusted badly. Numerous variations exist.

Climb the standard version of Gone Bimbo, but at the first permadraw on the traverse, instead of continuing right go straight through the roof on good holds to finish at a separate anchor. Using the original (low) beta to get established on the traverse gets you 26 points, whilst the new (high) beta only warrants 25.

Gymnastic and steep moves almost directly out the wall, going slightly left to finish at top of Gone Bimbo. Good edges if a bit sharp, and plenty of bolts!

Start as for Mysterious Swine Disease. At the second bolt, instead of breaking out left, continue straight up over the roof and into a right facing corner. Surmount another roof to reach easy ground and the anchor.

Climb Mega Pump but instead of going straight up at the left end of the Gone Bimbo traverse, continue left to link into Layer Cake.

Start in the permanently oozy, mossy corner to the right of Kubla Khan. Surmount the first roof by pulling a hard boulder problem, then continue up and slightly right past two additional overhangs. Easier but slopey ground leads to the anchor.

Climb the first 3 bolts of Powerless Creatures, then traverse left across Creatures of Power to finish up Kublai Khan.

An easier variant start to 'Creatures of Power' Start in the corner right of the aforementioned route and boulder your way up through 3 bolts and turn the lip off the roof. From here, join 'CoP' and finish as for that route. NB This is not the route's original name, which appears to have been lost to time.

Climb the first 3 bolts of Powerless Creatures, then head right, clipping the first bolt of Scud Muscles, to link into Jug Jockey at its crux. Combines the best parts of both routes.

Steep and hard before you get to the jugs and then easier terrain. A spicy final jaunt leads you to the anchors.

Climb past the first 3 bolts of the Stu Allen Route / Location…, then traverse right at the ledge to join Bridging Over Lyttelton.

Climb the crux of Bridging Over Lyttelton, then at the second bolt above the roof, head left to pass the final two bolts of Location… and finish as for that route. More sustained than the original, with a sting in the tail!

Start up Timberlands then traverse right into the corner after the second bolt. From there, follow the right-most line of bolts to the top.

Warning Rock: Loose block in roof, 4th(?) bolt

Follow line of bolts up the (very) vague prow towards the right of the face. After a spicy run out to the third bolt, and a bit of grovelling to avoid the guano cave, you reach the chains.

Easily reach rooflet (can clip low first bolt to the left to avoid some rope burn falling off the roof), and continue up to the steep finish!