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Approach

From the lower tier follow the main trail uphill another 5 minutes to the base of the upper tier.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 SAS Sport 8m

First climb to the left. Start with glued holds and up the steep face

FA: Dave Mcleod, 2010

2
23 * Acapi Sport 12m, 6

Start up the broken rock left of the corner groove to the base of the steep crack. Make a hard pull up and left then straight p on small holds avoiding the loose rock on the left.

FA: Brian Hall, 2011

3
18 * 59 Sport 14m, 6

A great little climb up an open book corner with an interesting finish where Dave had to use some kiwi engineering.

FA: Dave Mcleod, 2011

4
17 War Machine Sport 10m, 6

Start by climbing up a steep section right of an arete then up the tricky face.

FA: Dave Mcleod, 2011

5
17 Spoon's Route Sport 17m, 5

A fairly consistent climb that is better than it looks

FA: Dave Mcleod, 2007

6
18 Creme Anglaise Sport 15m, 6

Crimpy and technical face climbing. Use the first 2 bolts of the previous climb to step on the short black slab.

FA: Guillame Charton, 2008

7
24 * Haggis Burger Sport 20m, 6

Tricky roof climbing where technique and strength are required. First hangers are missing.

Set by Ian Binnie, 1990

8
20 * Happy Hooker Sport 20m, 9

The name says it all! Nice climb going through a small roof. Use long draws to avoid rope drag.

Set by Ian Binnie, 1990

9
17 * Biggles Wiggles Sport 20m, 6

Start left of the boulder. Clip first 2 bolts to access the head wall. Watch out for loose rock.

Set by Craig Biggs & Pete O'Connor, 1995

10
15 * Job For The Jobless Sport 21m, 5

(Was the) Easiest climb on this wall. Cruise and well protected.

Set by Ian Binnie, 1990

11
14 Hawes d'Ouvre Sport 18m, 7

Nice climbing up the wall with lots of bolts. Prepared by Spoon, finished and climbed by Martin Hawes.

FA: Dave Mcleod

12
16 * Joan's amazing cooking Sport 18m, 8

Climb the ledge to clip 1st bolt. Straight up to the 4th bolt then left. Beautiful and consistent climb.

Set by Martin Hawes, 2008

13
17 * Priapism Sport 18m, 5

Climb two wide ledges to scale the head wall, a last tricky move like a sting in the tail allows you to reach the belay.

Set by Pete O'Connor, 1995