access the mountain from what is now the standard approach route through Kea Basin, ascending the Birley Glacier and through Wright Col

ascending the north-west ridge of West peak is one of the classic climbs of New Zealand.

south face of the East Peak, the route goes through the upper section of the bluffs by the top of the couloir. comprises a bottom third of rock buttresses, a middle third of glacier, and a top third of steep snow slopes. Ben Dare finally soloed this route on his 6th visit to the mountain.

http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=070910_earnslaw.php&direct=nz

FA: Ben Dare, 2011